’66 Mustang Suspension Overhaul

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE IT'S PART TWO OF OUR 1966 MUSTANG UPDATE AND OVERHAUL.

THIS TIME WE'RE GONNA GET UNDER THERE AND BRING THAT SUSPENSION UP A FEW NOTCHES ALONG WITH SWAPPING IN A MODERN RACK STEERING SYSTEM.

THEN WE GO FOR A DRIVE.

ALSO DON'T MISS THIS BIG BLOCK POWERED SS EL CAMINO.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'RE BACK ON THIS '66 MUSTANG THAT WE'RE WORKING TO BRING INTO THE 21ST CENTURY. THE LAST TIME WE WAS WORKING ON IT WE MANAGE TO SLIP IN A TFIVE FIVE SPEED THAT'S GONNA GIVE THIS THING THE OVERDRIVE TO HELP IT

OUT ON THE HIGHWAY. NOW TODAY WE'RE GONNA CONTINUE THAT BY WORKING ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION.

(MARC)>> NOW OUR MUSTANG SUSPENSION IS BASICALLY STOCK. IT DOES HAVE AN AFTERMARKET SHOCK, BUT THE SPRINGS ARE ORIGINAL, SO ARE THE CONTROL ARMS, AND EVEN THE DISC BRAKE SETUP. NOW WITH THESE STAMPED CONTROL ARMS AND STOCK STYLE BUSHINGS THERE'S A LOT OF DEFLECTION, WHICH CAN CAUSE UNDERSTEER. SPEAKING OF STEERING, THIS CAR DOES HAVE POWER STEERING BUT IT'S GOT A SLOW RATIO BOX AND BY THE LOOKS OF THE TIE ROD ENDS THE STEERING COMPONENTS

NEED TO BE REPLACED AS WELL. NOW SOMEONE HAS UPGRADED TO THESE POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS AND A BIGGER SWAY BAR ALONG THE WAY. THOSE ARE GREAT UPGRADES BUT THOSE ARE THE EASY ONES. WE'RE GONNA TAKE THIS THING UP A FEW NOTCHES. THE FIRST THING WE'VE GOT TO GET OUT OF THE WAY IS GOING TO BE THE BRAKES, STARTING WITH GETTING THE CALIPERS UNBOLTED AND PULLED OFF. THESE ARE STOCK BRAKES BUT OFF OF A 1975 TO '80 GRENADA, WHICH IS A NICE CHEAP UPGRADE FOR THESE EARLY MUSTANGS.

NOW THE ROTOR HAS TO GO, AND THESE ARE THE TYPE THAT FASTEN DOWN TO THE SPINDLE.

WE'LL GET THE DUST CAP PRIED OFF. THEN WE'LL CLEAN THINGS UP A BIT.

THIS PIN HAS TO COME OUT OF THE CASTLE NUT AND SAVE IT FOR REINSTALLATION.

NEXT WE'RE GONNA PULL THE DUST SHIELD OFF. IT'S PRETTY EASY, JUST THREE BOLTS HOLD IT ON.

WE'LL ALSO UNHOOK OUR RUBBER BRAKE LINE TO GET IT AND THE CALIPER OUT OF THE WAY. I'M GONNA USE ONE OF THESE BRAKE LINE PLUGS SO WE WON'T WASTE ANY BRAKE FLUID.

THE TIE ROD CAN NOW BE DISCONNECTED. SO PULL THAT CASTLE NUT OFF AND GIVE HER A FEW WHACKS.

[ HAMMER TAPPING ]

(TOMMY)>> A SCREW JACK WILL HELP US PUT THE SUSPENSION UNDER A LITTLE BIT OF A LOAD, AND GET THE SPRING COMPRESSED A BIT. NOW WE CAN DISCONNECT THE SWAY BAR FROM THE

LOWER CONTROL ARM. [ IMPACT DRILL SPINNING ]

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL ALSO GO AHEAD AND DISCONNECT THE

BOTTOM HALF OF THE SHOCKS.

THEN WE CAN GENTLY BEGIN PULLING SOME TENSION OFF OF THE SUSPENSION.

THESE SPACERS ARE A QUICK AND DIRTY FIX TO SPRING FATIGUE THAT WE WON'T BE REUSING. SO THEY NEED TO GO AWAY.

NOW THE TOP END OF THE SHOCKS CAN BE LOOSENED UP AND THE SHOCKS AND UPPER MOUNTS CAN COME RIGHT OUT OF THE TOP.

(MARC)>> ALRIGHT NOW WE'RE GONNA INSTALL

THIS SPRING COMPRESSOR. THE REASON WE NEED THIS IS BECAUSE TO REMOVE THE CONTROL ARM WE NEED TO COMPRESS THE SPRING.

THE FINGERS OF THE COMPRESSOR SIMPLY SLIDE DOWN INTO THE CENTER OF THE SPRING AND HOOK ONTO THE COILS.

AFTER SNUGGING THE COMPRESSOR UP BY HAND FIRST, THE SPRING CAN THEN BE COMPRESSED WITH A SOCKET AND RATCHET. I KNOW IT'S HARD BUT PLEASE RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO USE AN IMPACT ON THE COMPRESSOR. ONCE THE SPRING IS FREE OF THE UPPER CONTROL ARM YOU CAN TAKE THE TENSION OFF OF THE SPRING AND IT'LL

JUST FALL RIGHT OUT. ALRIGHT NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE SPRING OUT OF THE WAY EVERYTHING'S NICE AND LOOSE IN HERE. SO WE CAN MOVE EVERYTHING AROUND TO GET THE BOLTS OFF. NOW THE CONTROL ARM BOLTS ARE RIGHT UNDER HERE. YOU CAN'T SEE THEM FROM HERE. SO I'M GONNA TAKE THE SPINDLE OFF AND I CAN PRY THAT UPPER CONTROL ARM OUT OF THE WAY, GET TO THOSE BOLTS.

(TOMMY)>> THE COTTER PIN COMES OUT, FOLLOWED BY THE CASTLE NUTS THAT HOLD THE BALL JOINTS TO THE SPINDLE.

THEN YOU CAN TAP ON THE SPINDLE NEAR THE JOINT TO LOOSEN THE TAPER END OF THE BALL JOINT FROM ITS SEAT IN THE SPINDLE.

THEN THE SPINDLE CAN BE REMOVED, WHICH WE'LL SET ASIDE TO USE LATER. THE RADIUS ARM IS NEXT, AND AS YOU CAN SEE THIS

ONE HAS BEEN UPGRADED TO POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS. SO WE'LL HOLD ONTO THOSE AS WELL. FROM THE UNDERSIDE WE WEDGED A WRENCH IN TO HOLD THE BOLT HEAD. THEN WE REMOVED THE NUTS FROM THE TOP SIDE. THE UPPER CONTROL ARM IS NOW FREE AND IT CAN

GO IN THE SCRAP BIN. FOR OUR UPGRADED COMPONENTS WE WENT TO NATIONAL PARTS DEPOT AND GOT THIS PRETTY

MUCH BOLT IN KIT. NOW IT'S GOT TUBULAR UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS THAT ARE STRONGER AND LIGHTER THAN THE STOCK COMPONENTS AND IT'S GOT IMPROVED GEOMETRY IN IT FOR BETTER DRIVING AND HANDLING. WE'VE GOT SOME COIL OVER SHOCKS AS WELL SO THAT WE

CAN ADJUST THE REBOUND AND THE COMPRESSION OF THEM. AND SINCE THEY'RE COIL OVERS, YOU KNOW WE CAN ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT. SO THAT'S NO BIG DEAL. THE FIRST THING THAT WE'VE GOT TO DO IS DRILL A COUPLE OF LITTLE BITY HOLES, BUT THAT'S PRETTY MUCH ALL THE CUTTING AND GRINDING THAT

WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO DO.

(MARC)>> WITH A COUPLE OF BOLTS FED FROM THE INSIDE OF THE SHOCK TOWER IN THE ORIGINAL HOLES, THE TEMPLATE CAN SLIDE INTO PLACE AND GET CINCHED DOWN. USING THE SMALL HOLES IN THE TEMPLATE, THREESIXTEENTHS PILOT HOLES CAN BE DRILLED. THE TEMPLATE IS THEN REMOVED ALONG WITH THE BOLTS.

THEN THE HOLES ARE DRILLED OUT TO NINESIXTEENTHS TO ACCOMMODATE THE NEW UPPER CONTROL ARMS. THE BOLTS INSTALL THROUGH THE UPPER ARMS AND INTO THE NEW LOWER HOLES. THEN THE SPACER SLIDES IN AND THE BOLTS CAN BE SNUGGED UP FOR NOW. [ IMPACT DRILL SPINNING ]

(MARC)>> THE NEW TUBULAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS BOLT RIGHT INTO THE STOCK LOCATION AND ATTACH USING THE NEW HARDWARE THAT COMES WITH THE KIT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK FIND OUT HOW EASY IT CAN BE TO DO A MAJOR STEERING UPGRADE FOR A FIRST GEN MUSTANG. PLUS FIND OUT WHAT MAKES THIS SS EL CAMINO A HARD TO FINDS HEAVY HITTER IN THE MUSCLE CAR WORLD.

(TOMMY)>> ALRIGHT GUYS, WE'VE GOT THE CONTROL ARMS AND THE SPINDLES MOUNTED UP. NOW WE NEED TO ASSEMBLE OUR COIL OVERS. NO BIG DEAL, LET ME SHOW YOU HOW THEY WORK. USING A PAIR OF SNAP RING PLIERS, THE SNAP RING THAT HOLDS THE UPPER MOUNT TO THE SHOCKS CAN BE REMOVED. ALRIGHT NOW IF YOU NOTICE, THIS THING SPINS ON RELATIVELY REALLY EASY, BUT IT WON'T ONCE YOU PUT SOME SPRING TENSION ON IT. IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO TAKE SOME ANTISEIZE,

SLATHER IT IN THERE PRETTY GOOD. IT'S KIND OF SOME PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE. A LITTLE BIT OF THIS STUFF GOES A LONG WAYS, AND THE NICKEL KIND WOULD BLEND IN A LITTLE BETTER, BUT WHAT WE HAD ON THE SHELF WAS COPPER. DON'T FORGET THIS LITTLE WEAR SHIM HERE BECAUSE THAT'S WHERE THE SPRING'S GONNA BE RIDING. THAT UPPER MOUNT CAN GO BACK IN, FOLLOWED BY THE SNAP RING.

BACK UP TOP THE UPPER SHOCK MOUNT SIMPLY BOLTS INTO THE STOCK HOLES USING STOCK HARDWARE, AND THEN CAN BE TIGHTENED.

THAT SHOULD BE PLENTY TIGHT ENOUGH.

(MARC)>> SO THE NEXT STEP IS TO TAKE THIS ASSEMBLED COIL OVER, SLIDE IT UP INTO PLACE, AND INSTALL THE UPPER MOUNT FIRST.

THE PROBLEM IS THIS SPRING NEEDS TO BE COMPRESSED TO GET EVERYTHING TO LINE UP PROPERLY. SO WE'VE TAKEN SOME LONGER BOLTS HERE. WE'LL INSTALL THOSE. THOSE WILL USE AS ALIGNMENT PINS.

THEN WE'LL GET THE LOWER MOUNT MOUNTED, PUT OUR JACK UNDER OUR LOWER CONTROL ARM, JACK IT UP INTO PLACE, AND THEN REPLACE THESE WITH OUR REGULAR BOLTS. USING THOSE LONGER ALIGNMENT BOLTS THAT I JUST MENTIONED, WE HUNG THE COIL OVER FROM THE UPPER MOUNT.

THEN WE BOLTED THE LOWER MOUNT TO THE SHOCK AND GOT THE NUT STARTED. THEN WE LOWERED THE UPPER CONTROL ARM DOWN ONTO THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNT AND BOLTED THE TWO TOGETHER USING THE SUPPLIED HARDWARE.

THESE CAN THEN BE TIGHTENED DOWN.

[ IMPACT DRILL SPINNING ]

(MARC)>> THE FLOOR JACK CAN THEN BE USED TO LIFT ON THE LOWER CONTROL ARM, WHICH LIFTS THE SPINDLE, UPPER ARM, AND EVENTUALLY THE COIL OVER INTO PLACE. OUR LONGER ALIGNMENT BOLTS CAN THEN BE REMOVED ONE AT A TIME, BEING REPLACED BY THE CORRECT

ONES AND TIGHTENED.

THE STOCK RADIUS ARMS CAN THEN GO BACK IN USING THE EXISTING HARDWARE AND BUSHINGS.

SWAY BAR LINKS WERE NEXT, WHICH WE REPLACED WITH A NEW SET THAT WE PICKED UP FROM AUTOZONE.

(TOMMY)>> LIKE WE MENTIONED TO YOU GUYS

EARLIER, WE WANTED TO TAKE OUR MUSTANG AND MAKE IT A LITTLE MORE DRIVER FRIENDLY. SO WE'RE GONNA DO A CONVERSION THAT'S PRETTY POPULAR. WE'RE GONNA CONVERT FROM THAT POWER STEERING GEAR BOX TO A RACK AND PINION SETUP. SO WE WENT TO NATIONAL PARTS DEPOT AND THEY HAD EXACTLY WHAT WE WERE NEEDING.

THEY OFFER A KIT THAT COMES WITH YOUR POWER STEERING HOSES, YOUR UJOINTS THAT CONNECT YOU TO THE STEERING COLUMN, TIE RODS, THE RACK OF COURSE, AND A POWER STEERING PUMP. NOW THIS MAY LOOK A LITTLE BIT INTIMIDATING BUT IT'S REALLY NOT ALL THAT BAD. WE STARTED BY REMOVING THE STEERING LINKAGE AS ONE. FIRST BY REMOVING IT FROM THE PITMAN ARM, FOLLOWED

BY THE IDLER ARM ASSEMBLY.

THE NEXT THING TO GO WAS THE STEERING BOX, WHICH WE WON'T BE NEEDING ANYMORE. THIS LOWER CHASSIS BRACE NEEDS TO COME OUT CAUSE THE NEW STEERING RACK WILL USE THESE MOUNTING HOLES. THE RACK GOES RIGHT UP INTO PLACE, GETS BOLTED TO THE SUBFRAME, AND GETS TORQUED TO 65 FOOT POUNDS.

THE OUTER TIE RODS THEN SCREW INTO PLACE, AND

ATTACH TO THE SPINDLE USING THE NEW

LOCKING NUT PROVIDED.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND AND WE'LL TAKE YOU FOR A RIDE IN THAT OH SO CONTROVERSIAL MUSCLE CAR SLASH PICK UP HYBRID. THEN WE'LL SEE HOW OUR MUSTANG MODS PANNED OUT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> DETROIT MUSCLE SALUTES THE 1968 EL CAMINO SS 396.

(TOMMY)>> IT'S THE AGE OLD QUESTION, CAR OR TRUCK?

(MARC)>> WELL IT'S A LITTLE OF BOTH, AND IT WILL HAUL IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN.

(TOMMY)>> THE SS 396 TURNED THIS '68 EL CAMINO INTO ONE HAIRY HAULER. THE NAME MEANS THE ROAD AND THIS BABY OWNS IT.

(MARC)>> YEP, AND IF YOU SAW IT COMING UP IN YOUR REVIEW MIRROR YOU MIGHT THINK A MALIBU WAS ON YOUR TAIL. THAT'S CAUSE THEY'VE GOT THE EXACT SAME FRONT END.

(TOMMY)>> THIS ONE'S IN PRIMO CONDITION, WHICH IS HARD TO FIND SINCE ONLY ABOUT 5,000 WERE MADE TO BEGIN WITH. SO GETTING BEHIND THE WHEEL OF ONE IS TRULY TAKING THE ROAD LESS TRAVELED.

(MARC)>> THE EL CAMINO DEBUTED WAY BACK IN 1959 ON THE FULL SIZE IMPALA PLATFORM AS CHEVY'S ANSWER TO THE RANCHERO. THEN STARTING IN '64 AND RUNNING THROUGH 1977 IT JUMPED OVER TO THE CHEVELLE PLATFORM. IT EVEN HAD A LESSER KNOWN BROTHER IN THE GMC SPRINT, OFTEN MISTAKEN FOR A CAMINO. CAMINOS GOT THE SUPER SPORT TREATMENT FOR THE

FIRST TIME IN '68. THE PERFORMANCE HOOD, BLACKED OUT GRILL AND TAILGATE, AND BADGES ALL OVER THE PLACE SIGNALED IT COULD DO A LOT MORE THAN JUST HAUL LUMBER.

(TOMMY)>> PLUS YOU HAD YOUR CHOICE OF THREE VERSIONS OF THE 396 BIG BLOCK THAT WENT ALL THE WAY

UP TO 375 HORSEPOWER. IT COULD SAY ADIOS TO THE FAIRLANE OR ROAD RUNNER ANY DAY.

(MARC)>> IT ALSO CAME WITH A 12 BOLT REAR END, BUT FOR SOME REASON YOU COULDN'T GET THE HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION LIKE ON THE MALIBU SS.

THIS WAS THE ONLY YEAR THAT THE EL CAMINO SS 396 WAS ITS OWN MODEL. SO YOU CAN EASILY IDENTIFY A TRUE ONE BY ITS VIN. THE THIRD NUMBER SHOULD BE AN EIGHT.

(TOMMY)>> '68 ALSO BROUGHT SOME COKE BOTTLE STYLE CURVES TO THE CAR WITH MORE ROUNDED SIDE PANELS AND A RAKED FRONT OVERHANG. IT WAS LONGER TOO BY ABOUT 10 INCHES, MOST OF WHICH SHOWED UP IN THE TRUCK BED.

(MARC)>> INSIDE IT'S A COZY FIT WITH JUST ENOUGH ROOM BEHIND THE SEATS FOR A SPARE TIRE, AND A HANDY DANDY HIDING SPOT.

THIS ONE DOESN'T HAVE THE FOUR SPEED, BUT THAT'S ACTUALLY A GOOD THING CAUSE SHIFT LINKAGE WAS LOUSY THAT YEAR. A RARE OPTION WAS THE UNUSUAL ROLLER TACH, WHICH IS JUST AS HARD TO READ NOW AS IT WAS BACK THEN. SOME OF THE '68 MODELS DID COME WITH THE INLINE SIX BUT THE VEIGHT MODELS WERE BY FAR MORE POPULAR, AS THEY SHOULD BE. BUT OUT OF ALMOST 42,000 EL CAMINOS MADE THAT YEAR, ONLY 5,190 WERE SS'. TODAY THE SS EL CAMINO IS OFTEN OVERLOOKED IN THE HISTORY BOOKS. WHATEVER YOU CALL IT, CAR, TRUCK, THIS IS ONE SERIOUS PIECE OF MUSCLE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE'LL SEE IF THOSE MODS MADE OUR MUSTANG AN ALL AROUND BETTER RIDE.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WELCOME BACK. NOW WHENEVER WE ROLLED OUR MUSTANG INTO THE SHOP WE KNEW WE WANTED TO DO SEVERAL UPGRADES AND ONE OF THOSE WAS GONNA BE ADDRESSING THE WHEELS. NOW WHAT CAME ON IT IS A SET OF TORQUE THRUST. NOW THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM AND THEY'RE SAFE BET WITH WHATEVER YOU'RE WORKING ON, BUT OUR MAIN PROBLEM WITH THESE IS THAT THEY'RE A 15 AND WE WANTED TO UPGRADE THE SIZE. SO WHAT WE DECIDED TO GO WITH IS A SET OF THESE 17 INCH AMERICAN RACING COBRA INSPIRED WHEELS. NOW WHENEVER YOU PICK A WHEEL YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO PICK SOMETHING THAT'S GONNA COMPLIMENT YOUR RIDE. AND OUR CAR WITH THOSE STRIPES AND BODY KIT, IT'S GONNA DO ALL THAT. ANOTHER ITEM THAT WE PICKED IS THIS

THREE BAR SPINNER. NOW I KNOW THAT'S JUST A FANCY CENTER CAP, BUT IT'S REALLY GONNA SET OFF OUR COMBO. AS FOR TIRES WE GOT A SET OF CONTINENTAL EXTREME CONTACT DWS'. NOW THIS IS AN ULTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE TIRE THAT DOUBLES AS AN ALL SEASON TIRE AS WELL. SO THAT MEANS YOU CAN RIDE ON THIS THING YEAR ROUND IN ALL KINDS OF CONDITIONS. IT'S GOT AN ASYMMETRICAL TREAD DESIGN THAT COMBINES CORNERING AND STABILITY, TRACTION ON WET SNOWY ROAD, AND A DESIGN THAT DISPLACES WATER TO RESIST HYDRO PLANNING. HERE'S SOMETHING COOL.

THESE WEAR INDICATORS TELL YOU HOW MUCH TREAD IS LEFT FOR WHAT APPROPRIATE CONDITIONS. AS THEY WEAR AWAY THEY LET YOU KNOW IF YOU'RE GOOD UP TO SNOWY ROADS, WET ROADS, AND WHEN THEY'RE WORN DOWN TO THE "D", DRY ROADS. SO LET'S GET THESE ON THE CAR AND SEE HOW GOOD THEY LOOK.

(MARC)>> NOW WE THINK THAT IT'S A BIT OF AN IMPROVEMENT OVER WHAT WE STARTED WITH, EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKED PRETTY GOOD ALREADY. BUT IT WAS NOISY AS HECK ON THE HIGHWAY, AND DON'T FORGET THAT WE CONVERTED IT TO A FIVE SPEED OVERDRIVE AS WELL FOR DRIVABILITY. ALRIGHT SO WE'RE BACK OUT ON THE HIGHWAY NOW AND WE DID THIS BEFORE AT 70 MILES PER HOUR, WHICH IS WHERE WE ARE NOW. THE TACH WAS AT 3,300 RPM AND WE WERE GETTING A READING OF 97 DECIBELS ON THE DECIBEL METER. NOW ONCE WE DID THIS OVERDRIVE SWAP, CRUISING AGAIN AT 70 AND IT'S AT...

(TOMMY)>> ABOUT 2,200.

(MARC)>> 2,200 RPM'S, SO THAT'S A NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCE. 1,100 RPM DROP. ALRIGHT LET'S CRANK UP THIS DECIBEL METER AND SEE WHAT WE CAN GET OUT OF IT, AND IT'S 89 DECIBELS. SO EIGHT DECIBEL DROP. THAT'S A CONSIDERABLE DIFFERENCE.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH, THIS IS DEFINITELY MUCH MORE MANAGEABLE OF A HIGHWAY CRUISER NOW.

(MARC)>> DEFINITELY. SO THE SUSPENSION THAT CAME IN THESE CARS FROM THE FACTORY WAS REALLY OPTIMAL.

YOU COULD CERTAINLY DO SOME THINGS TO IMPROVE ON IT LIKE BIGGER SWAY BARS, AND TIGHTER BUSHINGS, AND THINGS LIKE THAT BUT THERE REALLY WASN'T ANYTHING YOU COULD DO AT THE TIME TO IMPROVE THE HANDLING DRASTICALLY. AND WITH THIS AFTERMARKET KIT THAT WE PUT IN HERE CHANGED THE GEOMETRY OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION FOR ONE, TIGHTENED IT UP QUITE A BIT, AND THEN WE ADDED THE STEERING RACK, WHICH COMPLETELY CHANGES THE WAY THIS THING TURNS.

(TOMMY)>> IF YOU'VE GOT A STREET, STRIP, OR BRACKET DRAG CAR, YOU NEED A GOOD TORQUE CONVERTER TO GET THAT POWER FROM THE FRONT TO THE BACK. IF THAT'S THE CASE YOU NEED TO TAKE A LOOK AT ONE OF THESE TCI 10 INCH COMPETITION TORQUE CONVERTERS. TO START WITH, THESE ARE FURNISH BRAZED AND THEY CONTAIN REENFORCED FINS, WHICH MEANS THEY'RE GONNA BE MORE DURABLE THAN YOUR RUN OF THE MILL CONVERTER, AND THEY'RE BUILT TO HANDLE UP TO 750 HORSEPOWER. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO BE A DUAL PURPOSE UNIT LEANING MORE TOWARD THE STRIP SIDE.

THEY'RE AVAILABLE WITH A 3,800 TO 4,500 STALL, AND THIS WILL HELP YOU GET OFF THAT TREE AND ACROSS THE FINISH LINE IN A BIG OLE HURRY.

(MARC)>> ARE YOU WORKING ON TAKING YOUR OLD SCHOOL SMALL BLOCK CHEVY TO THE NEXT LEVEL? WELL YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THESE TRICK FLOW ROLLER ROCKERS. THEY'RE ALUMINUM WITH AN ANODIZED FINISH AND PROVIDE PROPER VALVE TIMING WITH BOTH STOCK AND AFTERMARKET HEADS. THEY'RE HEAT TREATED WITH CNC MACHINE BODIES, NEEDLE BEARING FULCRUMS, AND ROLLER TIP. THEY EVEN COME WITH THESE LOCKING NUTS TO KEEP THEM

ALL CINCH DOWN. THESE ARE AVAILABLE EITHER AS A ONE POINT FIVE OR ONE POINT SIX RATIO CONFIGURATION, AND YOU CAN GET THEM FROM SUMMIT RACING EITHER AS A SET OF 16 OR INDIVIDUALLY.

(TOMMY)>> ONE BIG BRAKE UPGRADE YOU CAN STEP INTO IS A SET OF DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS. NOW ONLY DO THEY RUN COOLER BUT THEY SWEEP AWAY GASES. WELL POWERSTOP NOT ONLY OFFERS THIS FOR YOUR LATE MODEL RIDES BUT THEY'VE GOT THEM FOR THE CLASSIC ONES TOO. THESE ARE A SET FROM THEIR EVOLUTION LINE, WHICH ARE SILVER ZINC PLATED TO MAKE THEM RUST RESISTANT. THEY HAVE A DIRECT OE FIT AND VEIN COUNT, IN THIS CASE FOR A FIRST GEN MUSTANG. THAT MAKES THEM EASY TO INSTALL AND YOU CAN COUPLE THEM WITH FACTORY COMPONENTS OR UPGRADE TO A WHOLE KIT. WELL I HOPE YOU CAN MANAGE TO STOP BY FOR OUR NEXT DETROIT MUSCLE. WE'LL SEE Y'ALL THEN.