Project: Stage 3 - Supercharging the '06 Mustang

Yeah, man, that's you. No. And second thought it's me. Hey, welcome to the horsepower shop.

When it comes to factory Hot Rods, man, there's nothing better than a new Mustang unless it's uh a new tricked out Mustang like this route. Stage three. Yeah. And we're gonna show you how they made this one look cooler and go a whole lot faster for

they treat it to a nine piece body kit that includes the rear wing, louvered rear windows and the splitter on the front fascia

inside. You get two tone leather seats with side supports, a short throw shifter and carbon fiber dash kit. And what you can't see are the stage three's brakes, suspension and exhaust

with no trouble seeing this, the stock 4.6 L engine, but with a root style M 90 Super Charger tuned at the Rausch

factory to make 415 horsepower at the crank with five pounds boost.

Now let's face it. Most of us don't have pockets deep enough for a turnkey stage three like this one. But guess what? Today we're going to start transforming that stock GT into a version of the stage three of our own. Now, before we baseline it, check out the super charger kit we're going to install on it. It

includes among other things. Of course, this charger unit with a built in integral bypass to reduce heat,

a water to air in inter cooler inside this completely assembled manifold, 38 pound injectors that work with this custom fuel rail. Of course, a high flow air inlet system,

this throttle body adapter, other hardware, of course and even cooler range spark plugs to help prevent detonation.

The 06 mustangs rated at 300 horsepower. The fly wheel, we got 265 at the rear wheels, which is what we expected.

The disassembly of this stock motor begins with the battery and battery tray. Then we can remove this power train control module. Now, before you even think about firing up the motor again, you got to rush this thing off to

rush,

they will recalibrate it to work with the new components and overnight it back to you. Meanwhile, let's move on to removing the air inlet tube and air box

using a disconnect tool. We can remove the fuel rail assembly along with the ejector.

The next big thing that goes is the intake manifold

followed by the alternator

and coolant hoses.

Well, that's it for most of the disassembly. Now it's time to do some modification starting with the alternator. Now, since we're going to mount this in a different location, these ears have to be cut off and the easiest way to do it is with the hacksaw that way you don't get aluminum shavings all over your shop.

We also have to remove a portion of the coolant hose hanger to give us clearance for the new alternator bracket.

Next, we remove the stock mass airflow sensor from the air box and transfer it to this new clean air tube

using new hardware from the kit.

Now, I got to tell you there are quite a few modifications to the factory wiring harness involved in this installation.

The good news is you don't have to remove the harness from the engine to make them.

Also, the kit comes with any replacement pieces you'll need and a good set of instructions. Just be careful not to take

image any of the wiring in the process.

All right, I'm going to let Joe finish up that wiring. Now, the rash intake comes pretty much complete, but we do have to install this heater supply tube with the hose along with this P CV bubbler line.

Now, once we get these on, we can go ahead and replace the factory coolant fill plug.

I don't know about you, but wiring has got to be my least favorite job on a car. However, this one was pretty easy and really only took about 30 minutes.

All right. Well, the kit also includes this

degassing bottle that purges air from the cooling system

and to do its job properly. It's got to be mounted at the highest point up here on the fan shroud.

So after drilling a couple of holes in the fan shroud,

we install a pair of J clips from the kit.

Then using this piece of double sided tape, we can place the bottle on top of the shroud

and secure it

with a couple of bolts. Can you imagine how hot the boosted air would get from this super charger without an inter cooler. Plus, you have to have cool dense air to make big power. Now, this kid's in inter cooler consists of two different pieces. The first being the small radiator that gets mounted in front of the factory radiator.

Now, water passes through this as it gets cooled and enters the inner cooler located inside of the intake manifold and this is where the boosted air gets cooled as it passes through

to mount the new radiator. We have to remove this trim cover

forward, inner fenders,

the front fascia

and this impact absorber.

After removing the stock bumper bolts, loosely install the longer ones from the kit.

Then we slide the intercooler radiator into place, secure it with the bolts we just installed and sense everything down.

An inter cooler is all about exchanging heat. So it needs a pump that flows water gradually through the system. This one from the kit flows five gallons a minute just enough to get the job done

and installs here on the frame rail using this bracket.

After mounting it, we can route a couple of hoses this one from the inlet side of the pump up to the outlet of the D gas bottle.

This shorter one from the outlet of the pump over to that inner cooler radiator. Of course, there's a lot more plumbing to do when we install the manifold inner cooler. And we'll handle that along with the rest of our ruse

charger system after the break.

Hey, welcome back for more of our rouse charger install on this 06 Mustang. Now, during the break, I wired up the water pump for the inner cooler by tapping into the 16 pin connector down by the PC M. Then I ran the harness across the front of the radiator and down to the pump where it got connected and grounded. Now I'm going to go ahead and remove these coil packs so I can replace the spark plugs for ones with a cooler heat range.

While he's doing that,

I'm going to install this heat tube assembly from the kit.

It gets bolted to the back of the engine block.

This Ralph manifold comes with gaskets already built in which is a nice feature,

but we want to be really careful not to damage those gaskets

while we drop this manifold onto the cylinder head,

then we cinch down the nine boats that hold the manifold in place.

Now I'm going to install this tube assembly that transfers the water from the front inner cooler to the inner cooler located the intake manifold and it locates right here on the side of the passenger side cylinder head.

Sure, I'm glad we stepped up and got the polished version of this Ralph's charger unit looks like a gorgeous piece of jewelry. And after placing a gasket over the dolls on the manifold,

we can drop it right in place.

Now, after oiling up the injector O rings, we can slide them into the intake manifold. Now, make sure you have a proper seal before making any connections from the engine harness.

Remember how we cut the factory ears off of the alternator. Well, here's why this new fiat bracket holds up to the factory alternator studs and this thing serves three purposes. One, it houses the idler pulleys, two, it braces the supercharger to the bracket and three,

you mount the alternator in a tighter spot here on the side.

Well, after bolting up that alternator, we got to get some power to it and we're going to do that with this factory style harness from the rouse kit.

It's pretty much like the original but longer with new connector locations pretty easy to install it secures here on these studs.

Then we connect it to the engine wiring harness

and route it underneath the super charger

to the alternator for the final connection.

Then after installing new pulleys to the fiat bracket, we can route our new longer belt

and reinstall, this modified coolant hanger.

Remember this throttle body spacer? We showed you earlier. Well, now it's time to install it on the backside of the rouse charger

with the supplied gasket. And we already mounted up the throttle body, making sure the throttle control motor is to the inside.

Next, we can reconnect all the hoses

time. Now to install the air box assembly, beginning with this new clean air tube,

it's a lot less restrictive and even larger in diameter than our stock piece. Then we connect this crank case V tube from the valve cover over to the new clean air tube.

Then after connecting the mass air sensor to the tube, we can join the tube in the box itself. Oh, notice how rush provides this block off plate for the former location of our sensor.

You might have wondered why we removed the whole battery tray earlier. Well, here's why we have to drill a hole in it here to mount this seleno

bypass assembly and it gets held together using a zip tie.

After connecting the vacuum connections from the solenoid to the vacuum canister,

we can attach the harness from the replicator box to the

solenoid

down the battery tray

and reinstall the battery,

believe it or not, we're extremely close to being finished with this rouse charger installation. Now, after the break, we'll put a few finishing touches on it, fire it up and make one more run on the dyno Jet. So don't you go away,

we're getting incredibly close to firing up this rouse charged Mustang, but

in case you're late joining us, here's a quick recap of some of the stuff we've done in this project.

We used a complete rouse kit that included everything for the install, including a radiator inner cooler,

a

water pump for that radiator,

a new manifold with a built in inner cooler

and a polished root style charger unit.

We also handled the wiring and modifications to components like the throttle body and the air intake system.

Well, next, we need to top off the degas bottle

and the engine cooling system.

Remember this power control module we sent off to rouse for re flashing.

Well, it's back and it installs the same way it came out

and don't worry the connections, they only go one way.

Normally we'd reinstall the front pacer right now. But hey, we're not normal and this thing's never going back on this Mustang and we'll tell you why. Like usual a little bit later, one last little but important detail before Mike fires it up. A little reminder here that from now on

we got to use the premium stuff.

Ok. A quick check for fuel leaks, weird noises or dash service lights. Then you got it trip back to the rollers

all 358. That time again, 93 horsepower. Not bad. But if we're putting more fuel and air into that engine

what would happen if we opened up the exhaust as well? More power, of course. Now, Rausch sent us these mufflers which are made out of a 304 stainless. They're straight through design with a 2.5 inlet and a 2.5 outlet. Now, before we install these, though, we have to remove that rear

fascia.

After removing the stock mufflers,

the rush

ones fit right up on the stock exhaust pipes using the supplied clamps

and to cap them off with a stage three look, we're using these polished cast tips. Now, more about these in a minute, let's make another run.

Well, sounds better. And we got 11 more horsepower. Now, that's uh 369 for the day, 100 4 more than we started with. Now I got to tell you

this Ralph Charger installation involves a lot of parts and some time

probably take you the better part of a weekend to handle the job. Yeah, but we were impressed at how all the components fit. Perfect. The instructions were easy to follow in the payoff. Well, that's gonna be a real kick in the

now supercharging doesn't come cheap, $5700 for the whole kit 6000 for the Polish version. But here comes the best part. Rausch

is the only aftermarket supercharging company that still retains the factory Ford warranty.

Oh, and these faces? Well, they're history after today. You see next week among other things. We install a nine piece body kit on that GT to make it look like a stage three.

Well, hang on horsepower heads to the races right after the break.

Hey, welcome back to Horsepower and Atlanta Dragway. If you like your racing, hot heads up at Real World. Well,

HCA'S got the best show on the road.

I

think it's the wave of the future I do. It's heads up,

you know, no holes barred drag racing the way it used to be. It's not cookie coated or homogenized. It's,

it's come get you something better. You know, that's what it is.

Let's say you want to go heads up racing but you don't have a big budget.

Well, the outlaw racing street car association has this class called Easy Street. Basically. All you need is a pretty big motor little tires. And, well, after you make that first wheel standing pass down the eight mile strip,

uh, this might come in handy too.

We have everything from, you know, 600 inch motors

all the way to some 400 inch motors that are gonna be,

I mean, some of these uh, cars you see standing on the back bumper

are running 400 inch motors.

Tell

Yanks engine is on the bigger side at 615 cubes, but he likes the challenge of trying to put the power down on radio rubber.

We've always had a good power and a good car and we get one to go straight after it actually leaves is that's the ticket.

Another challenge how to harness two stages of nitrous

leaving on a smaller amount is the ideal way, you know, just

enough to where it'll actually get going without spending the tires or standing up too high. And then bringing in a,

you know, a larger kit to make it run out the back in the badest outlaw class, the top 10 5 racer

trying for two victories in one day.

Terry Robbins here wins the final of a rained out event beating Steve Kirk

and he'll work his way through the eliminations to get a shot and a second win.

You know, the temperature is cold and it's been putting down a lot of power. Uh We're going to try to win this and Tim Lynch is running real good so he,

he'll be tough.

No doubt Mitch was running some incredible eight mile ETS with his twin turbo busting even smoking the tires. Sometimes

here a would be record shattering 446. If it were a points race. Typically the turbo cars run a lot better in the back half of them trying to work on our front half numbers to get it to run with these nitrous cars.

But these things are spooling up so quick. Now, it's almost no difference.

Now, the air out here makes these things full. The Turbos love the air.

Well, you'd like to win this deal a bit.

I love to win any deal. But yes, this one, especially

with the air getting cooler. The runs get more spectacular. And here Robbins runs a 453 against Bobby Co heading to the semis

before Lynch runs a lightning 448 to put Kirk on the trailer

in the finals. The Robbins whole shot gets him to the finish line first. Even with Lynch's better, et

I like to run fast, but it's real good to be behind a little bit and still win.

Well, quite a day, quite a night for the season's champion of 10, 5 outlaw races.

So how would you like to plant some Ls One power in your hot rod and drive it around the same day?

Well, Turnkey engine supply offers five versions of the LS one with horsepower ratings from 390 to 530. You could even get a turbo or supercharger. Each comes with the accessory setup, headers, harness starter, flywheel, everything. In fact, all you need to do is drop this thing in, make water and fuel hookups, five wiring connections and you're off and running

prices for these cret motors began at 6800.

Let's say you've already got the motor. You just want to kill our serpentine belt system to mount to the front of it. Well, Zoop now makes these posse track systems for small block Fords and small and big block Chevrolets.

Now they use twin

Aler for maximum belt contact and the face plate. All your bracketry and pulley are polish filled aluminum. Now they come with your ac compressor, high performance water pump alternator and power steering

prices start at 1800 bucks.

If you've got a new Chrysler 300 Dodge Magnum or Charger. Here's a way to release more ponies from that

hemi. It's a new flashback tuer from Super chips. That's good for up to 10% more horsepower in less than 10 minutes.

It's internet up update and

lets you adjust rev limiters, speed limiters and more all for about 480 bucks. Well, we reached the limit of our time for horsepower. We'll see you next week.