Double Power Adder Big Block

(ANNOUNCER)>> YOU BIG BLOCK CHEVY GUYS ASKED FOR IT. TODAY ON HORSEPOWER YOU GET IT. THE SHOW'S FIRST FORAY INTO A 496 CUBIC INCH BUILD UP, WITH THE RIGHT PARTS, PREP, AND TECH TO MAKE SOME GROUND SHAKING BIG INCH POWER.

(JOE)>> TODAY WITH NITROUS, WATERMETH INJECTION, AND RACE TECHNOLOGY WE'LL PUSH THE HORSEPOWER LIMITS IN THE BUILD UP OF A 496 INCH CHEVY RAT MOTOR. THESE DAYS YOU CAN TAKE A MODERN FACTORY PERFORMANCE ENGINE, ADD A HIGH DOLLAR TURBO OR BLOWER, AND APPROACH THAT MAGIC 1,000 HORSEPOWER MARK AND STILL BE STREETABLE. WELL WE'RE GONNA TAKE A DIFFERENT APPROACH THAT'S

MORE AFFORDABLE AND STARTS WITH A CAST IRON PRODUCTION BLOCK. NOW LATER ON FOR THE FIRST TIME IN HERE WE'LL TOP OUR 496 STROKER WITH NOT ONE BUT TWO POTENT POWER ADDERS.

(JOHN)>> FOR A FOUNDATION WE STARTED WITH A SEVEN POINT FOUR LITER FACTORY IRON BLOCK FROM SUMMIT RACING, A

MARK SIX VERSION WITH FOUR BOLT MAINS AND A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL. NOW WE HAD IT BAKED AND SHOT PEENED FOR EXTRA STRENGTH AND WE BORED AND HONED IT 60 OVER.

PLUS A FOUR AND A QUARTER INCH STROKE IS GONNA BRING US RIGHT UNDER 500 CUBIC INCHES. NOW EVERY TIME WE BUILD A MOTOR WE TRY TO SHOW YOU GUYS SOME OIL MODIFICATIONS AND THIS TIME IS NO DIFFERENT.

WE'RE GONNA INSTALL A COUPLE OF OIL RESTRICTORS IN THE BLOCK. NOW BECAUSE A SOLID ROLLER CAM DOESN'T NEED AS MUCH OIL IN THE TOP END, THESE RESTRICTORS WILL KEEP MORE OIL DOWN TOWARDS THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY WHERE IT'S REALLY NEEDED.

(JOE)>> WE'VE GOT TO LUBE THE CAM BEARINGS NOW WHILE WE CAN BECAUSE THE CRANK'S GOING IN NEXT, AND IT'S GOING TO SIT ON CLEVITE BEARINGS LIKE WE'RE USING THROUGHOUT THE BOTTOM END.

THEY'VE GOT A HIGH PERFORMANCE MOLY GRAPHITE

COATING DESIGNED FOR SEVERE ENGINE USE.

(JOHN)>> THIS LIGHT WEIGHT FORGED FOUR AND A QUARTER

INCH STROKER CRANK SHAFT IS FROM CROWER. AMERICAN MADE AND DESIGNED TO EASILY HANDLE 1,000 HORSES AND PLENTY OF NITROUS HITS. THESE MAIN CAPS WILL BE HELD IN PLACE WITH ARP STUDS SWAPPED OUT FOR THE FACTORY BOLTS. NOW SOME OF YOU GUYS OUT THERE THAT HAVE BUILT A FEW MOTORS ARE SITTING THERE WONDERING WHY I JUST DROPPED A TWO PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL CRANK IN A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL BLOCK. THERE'S A GOOD REASON FOR THAT. NUMBER ONE IS THAT A TWO PIECE REAR MAIN CRANK IS THE MOST COMMON STROKER CRANK THAT'S COMING FOR A BIG

BLOCK IN THE CATALOGS. NOW THE SECOND IS CROWER COULD HAVE MADE US A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL CRANK BUT IT WAS GONNA HAVE TO BE CUSTOM FORGED FROM SCRATCH AND IT WAS GONNA COST MORE MONEY AND TIME. SO THIS $100 SEAL ADAPTER ALLOWS US TO RUN A TWO PIECE CRANK IN A ONE PIECE BLOCK. AFTER TORQUING DOWN OUR CAPS, WE CAN CHECK OUR END PLAY AND THEN MOVE ON TO OUR CAM TIMING. INSTEAD OF A TIMING CHAIN WE'RE USING A JESEL

SPORTSMAN SERIES BELT DRIVE ON THIS ALL OUT STREET MOTOR. THIS BELT DRIVE COVER INSTALLS FIRST. AND WHEN YOU'RE USING POWER ADDERS YOU NEED PRECISE CONTROL OVER YOUR CAM TIMING. TIMING CHAINS WILL STRETCH OVER TIME AND THROW THAT OFF. BELT DRIVES ARE A LOT MORE ACCURATE AND EASY TO ADJUST. WE'RE TORQUING THESE BOLTS SO THAT THE PLATE SEATS EVENLY AGAINST THE BLOCK, AND WE'RE NOT OVER TIGHTENING THE ORING, WHICH COULD DAMAGE IT. THEN ON THE SNOUT OF OUR COMP CAM WE INSTALLED A LUBED UP THRUST WASHER, AND USING THREAD SEALANT, BOLT THE ADAPTER TO THE CAM SHAFT.

NEXT WE CAN INSTALL THE CAM. IT'S A SOLID ROLLER WITH A LIFT OF 653 THOUSANDTHS ON THE INTAKE AND 660 THOUSANDTHS ON THE EXHAUST. DURATION IS 248 AND 254 AT 50. OUR POWER BAND IS FROM 3,000 TO 7,200 RPM, AND IT ONLY

CALLS FOR A 3,000 STALL CONVERTER. NEXT OIL AND INSTALL THE OUTER THRUST WASHER. AND TO CHECK THE END PLAY INSTALL THE THREE DRY SHIMS FOLLOWED BY THE THRUST PLATE, AND TORQUE IT DOWN. USING A DIAL INDICATOR ON THE CAM FACE, WE'RE LOOKING FOR 10 TO 15 THOUSANDTHS CLEARANCE AND WE GOT IT. SINCE OUR SMALLEST SHIM IS 10 THOUSANDTHS, WE CAN'T MAKE A SMALL ENOUGH ADJUSTMENT TO TIGHTEN IT UP ANY FURTHER. SO WE PUT A LITTLE SILICONE BETWEEN THE SHIMS, REINSTALL THE SHIMS, AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC. IN ADDITION TO ACCURATE TIMING, THE BELT ALSO HELPS ABSORB ENGINE HARMONICS. AND AS FAR AS STREETABILITY GOES, FACTORY COMPACT CARS HAVE USED THEM SINCE THE '80'S.

(JOE)>> RIGHT NOW I'M GOING OVER THE TOPS OF OUR NEW PISTONS WITH SCOTCH BRITE JUST LIKE WE WOULD WITH ANY ENGINE GETTING A POWER ADDER. A SHARP EDGE OR A HOT SPOT COULD BE A SOURCE OF DETONATION. WE DON'T WANT THAT. WELL AFTER THIS WE'LL LOAD THEM WITH RINGS, RODS, AND FINISH THE BOTTOM END OF OUR 496.

(JOE)>> WE'RE BACK AND WE JUST FILE FITTED, INSTALLED, AND CLOCKED OUR RINGS FOR THESE WISECO SMALL DOME FORGED PISTONS. WHENEVER YOU BUILD A POWERFUL NITROUS ENGINE, WELL THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY IS REALLY WHERE YOU WANT TO SPEND MOST OF YOUR MONEY. HOWEVER WHEN IT COMES TO SEATING THESE RINGS, HERE'S A LITTLE TIP THAT WON'T COST YOU ANYTHING. WHILE DIFFERENT LUBRICANTS ARE MADE JUST FOR SEATING RINGS, IN OUR OPINION THERE'S NOTHING BETTER THAN GOOD OLE ATF ON THE CYLINDER WALLS. IT'LL MAKE THE RINGS SEAT ALMOST INSTANTLY, AND WELL YOU'VE PROBABLY GOT SOME SITTING AROUND THE SHOP. ONE OF THE MOST OVERLOOKED AND OVER WORKED PARTS OF AN ENGINE ARE THE RODS. THESE CROWER IBEAM ULTRA LIGHTS HAVE PLENTY OF HARD WORK AHEAD. THEY COST MORE, BUT YOU WON'T SEE THEM SCATTERED ON THE STREET. WELL NOW WE'LL TURN THE MOTOR OVER SO WE CAN DEAL WITH OUR BIG BLOCK'S OILING SYSTEM. SUMMIT RACING SENT US THE BILLET ALUMINUM PICK UP AND PUMP MADE BY CBR.

IT'S A LARGE VOLUME PUMP WITH A LARGE DIAMETER

CHROMOLY GEAR SHAFT, AND INTERNAL BILLET GEARS THAT'LL HOLD UP DURING EXTREME RACING CONDITIONS. IT'S ALSO FULLY ADJUSTABLE SO YOU CAN TUNE IT TO YOUR PARTICULAR NEEDS.

AFTER LAYING DOWN A FEL PRO OIL PAN GASKET WE CAN DROP ON OUR CANTON STREET/STRIP OIL PAN THAT HOLDS EIGHT QUARTS WITH A FILTER. BACK ON TOP WE CAN DROP IN OUR COMP AND DUREX MECHANICAL ROLLER LIFTERS. NOW THESE ARE FULLY HEAT TREATED FOR DURABILITY AND MACHINED TO ULTRA HIGH TOLERANCES. WHEN YOU'RE GOING FOR BIG POWER NUMBERS LIKE WE ARE, CHOOSING CYLINDER HEADS IS NO TIME TO GET STINGY. WE'RE USING EDELBROCK'S ECNC 355'S THAT ARE FULLY CNC PORTED WITH INTAKE RUNNERS THAT SPEC OUT AT 355. ON THE OTHER SIDE HERE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBERS SPEC OUT AT 110. AND VALVES, WELL INTAKE IS TWOTHREE HUNDRED, EXHAUST IS ONEEIGHTEIGHTY. OH AND THIS IS IMPORTANT, WE UPGRADED TO HIGHER PRESSURE SPRINGS AND TITANIUM RETAINERS FROM COMP TO MATCH THAT SOLID ROLLER CAM WE INSTALLED.

(JOHN)>> WE'LL LAY DOWN OUR COATED MLS HEAD GASKETS FROM FEL PRO. NOW THESE ARE A SPECIFIC GASKET FOR THE MARK SIX BLOCK. NOW I LIKE TO LAY THE HEADS DOWN ON THE DOWEL PINS FIRST, AND THEN RUN DOWN MY STUDS BECAUSE TRYING TO WORK

THE HEADS DOWN WITH ALL THE STUDS IN CAN CAUSE LITTLE SCRAPS OF METAL TO FALL DOWN IN BETWEEN THE GASKET AND THE HEAD, CAUSING YOU TO LOSE A GASKET SEAL. IN A NITROUS MOTOR, THAT'S NOT GOOD. THE ROCKERS WE CHOSE WERE A SPORTSMAN SERIES JESEL SHAFT MOUNT. THESE WILL BE A LOT STRONGER THAN A STUD MOUNTED FOR THOSE NITROUS HITS, AS WELL AS KEEP US OUT OF ANY VALVETRAIN DEFLECTION IN THE HIGHER RPM RANGE. NOW ONE THING TO REMEMBER WE USING A SHAFT MOUNT SETUP IS YOU CAN'T JUST DROP IN ALL THE PUSH RODS AND ROCKERS LIKE ON THE STUD SETUP. YOU CAN ACTUALLY PULL OUT THE THREADS IF THE CAM SHAFT IS UP ON ITS LOBE. SO TAKE YOUR TIME AND GO ONE BY ONE.

(JOE)>> IF YOU'RE USING A POWER ADDER OF ANY KIND OR RUNNING HIGH RPMS, STABLE IGNITION TIMING IS A MUST FOR PEAK PERFORMANCE. WELL FOR YEARS PRO RACERS HAVE RELIED ON A CRANK TRIGGER SETUP FOR THAT JOB.

OURS IS MADE FOR THIS BALANCER, WHICH HAS A HUB THAT MATES TO AN INDENTION ON THE TRIGGER WHEEL SO IT STAYS CENTERED.

OURS IS CALLED THE MSD FLYING MAGNET, A PATENTED VERSION THAT USES FOUR RARE EARTH MAGNETS IN AN ALUMINUM TRIGGER WHEEL. THE MAGNETS PASS A STATIONARY NONMAGNETIC PICK

UP MOUNTED ON THIS BRACKET TO ACCURATELY TRIGGER IGNITION WITH NO FALSE TRIGGERING. THE GAP BETWEEN THE PICK UP AND TRIGGER WHEEL NEEDS TO BE BETWEEN 50 AND 80 THOUSANDTHS.

WE'LL SET THE TIMING LATER WITH THIS TRICK ADJUSTOR WHEN THE ENGINE'S RUNNING. FEEDING OUR 496 STARTS WITH THIS ALUMINUM SINGLE PLANE VICTOR 454-R INTAKE MANIFOLD. IT'S GOT LARGER RECTANGULAR PORTS WE HAD PORT MATCHED TO OUR HEADS. THIS HUGE FLANGE FITS HOLLEY'S NEW 1050 ULTRA DOMINATOR. OH AND HERE'S A CLUE TO WHAT'S HAPPENING LATER. IN FACT THE UPCOMING DYNO SESSION'S GONNA BE LIKE A THREE RINGS CIRCUS. FIRST NATURALLY ASPIRATED, THEN SPRAYED WITH NITROUS, AND FINALLY A HEALTHY HIT OF WATERMETHANOL. YEAH GET READY TO PUSH THE LIMITS FOR SOME CRAZY HORSEPOWER.

(JOE)>> WE'RE BACK WITH OUR 496 STROKER LONG BLOCK, ALMOST READY FOR A RIGOROUS WORKOUT ON OUR DYNO. THIS THING'S GONNA SEE A LOT OF PULLS IN PURSUIT OF THAT MAGIC 1,000 HORSEPOWER MARK.

(JOHN)>> HOWEVER OUR GOAL HAS ALWAYS BEEN TO KEEP THIS THING STREETABLE, AND ESPECIALLY TO KEEP THE POWER ADDER COSTS AS LOW AS POSSIBLE. AND AFTER I FILL IT WITH SOME EDELBROCK BREAK IN OIL, WE CAN PRIME IT, CHECK FOR OIL PRESSURE.

(JOE)>> NOW THERE'S 50 JOHN.

(JOHN)>> NEXT WE CAN LUBE THE VALVETRAIN, AND THEN DROP ON A PAIR OF VALVE COVERS. TO SET THE TIMING ON A CRANK TRIGGER SYSTEM YOU JUST SIMPLY FIND TOP DEAD CENTER AND THEN BACK IT UP TO YOUR DESIRED TIMING. IN OUR CASE AROUND 36 DEGREES. THE MSD PRO BILLET DISTRIBUTOR HAS A LOW PROFILE BECAUSE UNDER THE CAP THERE'S ONLY A ROTOR TO SEND A SPARK TO THE PLUGS. HOWEVER WE DO NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT IT'S LINED UP WITH THE NUMBER ON CYLINDER.

SO I DRILL A HOLE IN THE CAT NEXT TO THE NUMBER ONE TERMINAL AND PAINTED A DOT ON THE ROTOR SO WE CAN CHECK OUR PHASE IN LATER. OUR EXHAUST IS GOING TO ESCAPE THROUGH A SET OF HOOKER CERAMIC COATED HEADERS. AND JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE ON THIS ENGINE, THEY'RE

ALSO TUNABLE USING DIFFERENT LENGTH PRIMARY TUBES. AND AFTER GAPPING OUR SPARK PLUGS WE CAN INSTALL THEM AND THEN ROUTE OUR WIRES. ALTHOUGH WE'RE MAKING NATURALLY ASPIRATED RUNS FIRST, WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND FINISH INSTALLING OUR NITROUS KIT NOW. WE'RE USING AN EDELBROCK VICTOR DIRECT PORT SYSTEM THAT COMES WITH THE UNIVERSAL LINE KIT YOU BEND YOURSELF. THEN THE WIRING FOR THE SOLENOIDS CAN NEATLY RUN UNDER THE MANIFOLD AND TOWARDS THE BACK. THEN WE CAN HOOK UP OUR NITROUS LINES, CAP THEM OFF UNTIL OUR SECOND PHASE ON THE DYNO. OUR THIRD DYNO PHASE INVOLVES THE USE OF A SNOW WATERMETH KIT. SO WE'LL GO AHEAD AND INSTALL THE PLATE

FOR IT NOW AS WELL.

AT THIS POINT WE'RE FINALLY READY TO DROP ON OUR CARBURETOR, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING HOLLEY'S NEW 1050 CFM ULTRA DOMINATOR. NOW IT'S ULTRA LIGHT WEIGHT, ULTRA STRONG, AND WE THINK THAT HARDCORE GREY FINISH IS ULTRA SWEET. NOW WE CAN HOOK UP THE FUEL LINES TO THE DOMINATOR, PUT ON OUR RELAY FOR THE NITROUS SOLENOIDS AND ARMING SWITCH, CONNECT THE SOLENOID WIRING HARNESS QUICK CONNECTS WE MADE. THEN CONNECT THE POWER AND GROUND WIRES FOR THE ARMING SWITCH, AND FINALLY GROUND ALL OUR WIRES TO THE HEAD.

AS PROMISED, 93 OCTANE PUMP GAS. SOMETIMES THE HARDEST PART TO PUT ON A MOTOR CAN BE THAT BREATHER CAP. SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE SOME WD 40 SPECIALIST WATER RESISTANT LUBRICANT SPRAY. IT'LL HELP US GUIDE THAT IN, KEEP IT SEALED. NOW WE'RE CHECKING OUR DISTRIBUTOR PHASE IN AND DIALING IN OUR TIMING TO 32 DEGREES. THEN WE'RE GONNA GET HER UP TO TEMP, AROUND 150 DEGREES AT LEAST. SINCE THE LASH WILL CHANGE WITH HEAT, WE'LL RESET THEM

BEFORE THE BREAK IN RUNS. AND AFTER DUMPING THE BREAK IN OIL FOR SOME HIGH PERFORMANCE SYNTHETIC, WE CAN LASH THE VALVES ONE MORE TIME, GO AHEAD AND GET OUR AIR HAT SETUP THAT HOUSES OUR WEATHER STATION SENSOR AND OUR AIR IN SPEED SENSOR. AND WE'RE FINALLY READY TO MAKE SOME PULLS. READY?

(MIKE)>> YEAH I'M READY, HERE WE GO. OUR FIRST PULL IS FROM 4,000 TO 6,500 RPM, AND RIGHT OFF THE BAT THIS THING IS A BEAST. THERE SHE IS, 688, TORQUE WAS 629.

(JOHN)>> BACK IT UP AT 6,500?

(MIKE)>> YEP, LETS DO IT.

(JOHN)>> 690?

(MIKE)>> TORQUE JUMPED UP TOO TO 631.

(JOHN)>> YOU WANT TO TRY 34?

(MIKE)>> YEAH LETS PUT A COUPLE DEGREES IN IT AND SEE WHERE IT GOES. I THINK IT'S GONNA LIKE IT.

(JOHN)>> YOU COULD TAKE IT TO SEVEN IF YOU WANTED TO.

THE PARTS WILL TAKE IT ALL DAY.

(MIKE)>> YOUR CALL.

(JOHN)>> SEVEN, LETS DO IT. WE'RE GROWN MEN. [ engine revving ]

(MIKE)>> 696!

(JOHN)>> OH YOU GOT A 696.

(MIKE)>> AT 6,400, TORQUE DID COME BACK UP TO 631.

(JOHN)>> SO WE'RE SMOKING IT AS FAR AS WHAT

WE WANTED, GOOD DEAL.

(MIKE)>> ALRIGHT, LETS SHUT HER DOWN, RELASH VALVES,

AND GET READY FOR THE POWER ADDER. WHICH MEANS A WHOLE LOT OF THIS MIXED WITH A LITTLE OF THAT, STAY WITH US.

(MIKE)>> IT'S TIME TO PUT OUR 496 BIG BLOCK STROKER ON THE BOTTLE FOR THE NEXT ROUND. NOW WHY NITROUS? QUITE SIMPLY IT'S THE MOST COST EFFECTIVE POWER ADDER YOU CAN BUY. NOW THE KIT FOR THIS BIG BLOCK WAS RIGHT AT $1,000 BUCKS. NITROUS IS A LIQUID, AND WHEN VAPORIZED IT PROVES A SIGNIFICANT COOLING EFFECT OF THE INTAKE AIR. THE COOLING INCREASES THE AIR'S DENSITY AND THIS PROVIDES MORE OXYGEN INSIDE THE CYLINDER WHICH EQUALS MORE HORSEPOWER.

NEXT THE LINE FROM THE BOTTLE TO THE YBLOCK. 93 WILL BE REPLACED BY 110 OCTANE RACE GAS FOR THE NITROUS HITS. NOW OUR SPARK PLUG GAP IS SET AT 33. FOR EVERY 75 TO 100 HORSEPOWER NITROUS GAIN, DROP THE PLUG ONE HEAT RANGE. WE DROPPED IT TO THE LOWEST SIDE OF THE NEXT COOLER PLUG. WE'RE ALSO REMOVING THE STACK TO PROTECT THE TURBAN AND SENSORS IN CASE OF A NITROUS BACK FIRE.

THE BASIC RULE OF THUMB IS TO REDUCE THE TIMING TWO DEGREES PER 50 HORSEPOWER OF SPRAY. OUR FIRST HIT WILL BE A 150 SHOT AND OUR ENGINE IS EFFICIENT. IT HAS A COOLER PLUG, SO WE'RE ONLY GOING FOUR DEGREES TO 31.

(JOHN)>> I AM SO SCARRED RIGHT NOW.

(MIKE)>> READY?

(JOHN)>> NO!

(MIKE)>> THE NITROUS WILL ACTIVATE AT 4,500 RPM AND IT WILL STAY ON TO 7,000.

(JOHN)>> THAT FELT PRETTY SMOOTH.

(MIKE)>> NICE AND SMOOTH, HIT THAT BRAKE REAL GOOD. 830 AND 760 FOOT POUNDS.

(JOHN)>> OHHH!

(MIKE)>> FOR THE SECOND RUN JETS FOR A 250 SHOT ARE BEING INSTALLED. THIS REQUIRES LARGER ONES THAN THE NITROUS AND FUEL SIDE OF THE NOZZLE. IT WILL ALSO REQUIRE ANOTHER DEGREES OF TIMING TO BE REMOVED. WE'RE AT 27 DEGREES.

(JOHN)>> THERE IT IS 899 EVEN AT 6,300.

WHAT WAS THE TORQUE?

(MIKE)>> 866.

(JOHN)>> I SEE IT, I'D LOVE TO SEE A 900.

(MIKE)>> I'M SHUTTING HER DOWN.

(JOHN)>> OKAY.

(JOE)>> EXPENSIVE RACE GAS IS NOT AN OPTION FOR AN ENGINE BUILT FOR STOUT STREET DUTY LIKE OURS. SO WE'RE GOING BACK TO 93 OCTANE PUMP GAS FOR OUR FINAL PHASE USING A SNOW PERFORMANCE WATER METHANOL KIT.

THE SYSTEM USES A TANK WE'RE FILLING WITH BOOST JUICE, 49 PERCENT METHANOL, 51 PERCENT WATER. A HIGH VOLUME PUMP IS USED TO SPRAY THE MIX THROUGH

A NOZZLE INSTALLED IN THE PLATE. AS THE TINY DROPLETS GO FROM LIQUID TO GAS IN THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER, THEY ABSORB HEAT, SLOW THE FLAME FRONT, AND PREVENT DETONATION MUCH THE WAY HIGH OCTANE FUEL DOES. SO THE OCTANE RATING IS INCREASED 20 TO 25 PERCENT. PLUS A COOLER, DENSER CHARGE MEANS MORE COMPLETE COMBUSTION OF FUEL. WITH CONTROLLED WATER METH INJECTION, MORE TIMING AND BOOST CAN BE ADDED FOR MORE POWER.

(MIKE)>> SO WE UP IT TO 29 DEGREES AND REINSTALLED THE STACK.

SINCE WE HAVE A NEW TUNE, WE WON'T RISK THE CHANCE OF A FLAMING BLOWBACK FROM ANOTHER 250 SHOT OF NITROUS. RIGHT NOW IF YOU CAN BE ANYWHERE CLOSE TO THE NUMBER

YOU WERE WITH THE 250 HITTING THE 110, THAT'S A PLUS.

(JOHN)>> YEAH, I'D SAY THAT'S A WIN.

(MIKE)>> THE PLAN IS THAT THE SNOW SYSTEM WILL MAKE UP

FOR THE POWER LOSS FROM THE 93 OCTANE FUEL.

AND IT DID, 902 HORSEPOWER, 865 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE. NOT BAD, NOT BAD, 93 OCTANE WITH A 250 SHOT.

(JOHN)>> I KNOW SEVERAL BUDDIES THAT ARE GONNA CALL ME A LIAR. THEY'RE GONNA SAY THERE AIN'T NO WAY.

(MIKE)>> A SUPER FLOW DON'T LIE.

(JOHN)>> I CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT IN A CAR AND SEE WHAT IT DOES.