COPO Camaro 4-Speed Build

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR, LEARN HOW TO TAKE THE CONCEPT OF A MUNCIE FOUR SPEED TRANSMISSION AND IMPROVE IT WITH REENGINEERED AND MODERNIZED PARTS THAT MAKE IT WAY STRONGER AND MORE DURABLE. THEN HOW TO REMOVE GOOD GLASS WITHOUT KILLING IT, AND KEEPING THE HEAT OUT OF YOUR RIDE.

(STEVE)>> HEY, GOOD TO SEE YOU'RE WITH US. WE'RE IN THE MIDST OF BUILDING A PROJECT THAT'S MODELED AFTER ONE OF THE ICONIC MUSCLE CARS THAT'S EVER GRACED THE HIGHWAYS AND BIWAYS OF AMERICA, THE '69 ZL ONE 427 COPO CAMARO.

WE KNEW WE WANTED A MUNCIE STYLE FOUR SPEED AND YOU CAN SOURCE YOUR PARTS AND THE CASE ALL TO MANY DIFFERENT COMPANIES. BUT IF WE'RE GONNA TAKE THIS CAR AS FAR AS WE WANTED TO, WE KNEW WE WANTED TO GET OUR HANDS ON THE BEST PARTS POSSIBLE.

(TOMMY)>> SO THAT'S WHERE PHIL HUDSON COMES IN. HE'S OUT OF SYRACUSE, NEW YORK, WITH A COMPANY

CALLED AUTO GEAR. THEY MANUFACTURE SOME OF THE SMOOTHEST AND TOUGHEST MUNCIE FOUR SPEED STYLE TRANSMISSIONS AVAILABLE.

(PHIL)>> THAT'S RIGHT, ABOUT IN THE YEAR 2000 CUSTOMERS HAD PROBLEMS GETTING QUALITY PARTS FOR THEIR MUNCIE REBUILDS. SO AUTO GEAR STARTED WITH A NEW CASE AND THEN WENT TO THE REST OF THE TRANSMISSIONS AND WHAT

THE PARTS WE HAVE TODAY.

(STEVE)>> PHIL'S GONNA SHOW US THE INS AND OUTS OF THEIR NEW FOUR SPEEDS AND WHILE WE'RE AT IT WE'RE GONNA GET TO SEE SOME OF THE WAYS THEY'VE IMPROVED ON MUNCIE'S ORIGINAL DESIGN.

(PHIL)>> HERE'S A TRANSMISSION THAT WE OFFER FROM AUTO GEAR AND HERE'S THE ORIGINAL MUNCIE. OUR BOX OFFERS MORE RATIOS THAN THE ORIGINAL MUNCIE

WITH EXTRA ADDED FEATURES THAT GIVES IT MORE

STRENGTH AND DURABILITY.

(TOMMY)>> NOW I'VE BEEN AROUND A COUPLE OF MUNCIES IN MY TIME, LETS GO SEE HOW ONE OF YOURS GOES TOGETHER.

(PHIL)>> YOU CAN SEE RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING, AUTO GEAR CASE IS A LOT THICKER VERSUS THE MUNCIE. AND THIS WILL ADD STRENGTH BECAUSE ON THE MUNCIE CASE THEY'VE HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE EARS BREAKING OFF WHERE YOU BOLT UP TO THE BELL HOUSING, AND WITH A COUNTER SHAFT BREAKING IN THE FRONT OF THE CASE. AND I'M GONNA SHOW YOU SOMETHING DIFFERENT ABOUT THESE TWO CASES IN THE FRONT. ONE OF THE PROBLEMS WITH THE MUNCIE CASE, AFTER A PERIOD OF TIME, THIS CASE WOULD CRACK OR THIS HOLE WOULD BECOME ELONGATED RIGHT HERE, AND YOU'D HAVE GEAR SEPARATION AND HAVE PROBLEMS. AND THEN WITH OUR CASE WE IMPROVED IT BY PUTTING THIS STEEL PLUG, AND IT TOOK THE FORCE AND SPREAD IT OVER A WIDER AREA. NOW WE'RE GONNA START ASSEMBLING OUR CLUSTER, BUT WHEN YOU GET IT FROM US IT'S ALREADY ONE ASSEMBLY.

YOU HAVE YOUR THIRD SPEED GEAR, YOUR DRIVE GEAR IS ALREADY PRESSED ON, AND START ASSEMBLY. THESE ARE CAGE BEARINGS, NOT THE FULL COMPS, SO IT MAKES ASSEMBLY A LOT EASIER. NOW WE CAN BRING IN OUR CASE AND START INSTALLING OUR CLUSTER.

NOW WE'RE GONNA INSTALL OUR COUNTER SHAFT. IT HAS A FLAT ON THE SHAFT AND IT HAS TO LINE UP HORIZONTAL WITH THE BACK OF THE CASE. IF IT'S NOT LINED UP YOU'RE NOT GONNA GET YOUR MID PLATE IN PLACE. NOW WE'RE GONNA INSTALL OUR REVERSE IDLER GEAR ASSEMBLY. WE'LL SET OUR REVERSE IDLER GEAR IN, AND WE'RE READY TO GO ON TO OUR NEXT STEP.

(STEVE)>> AS WE'VE BEEN SAYING, AUTO GEAR HAS DONE MANY THINGS TO IMPROVE THEIR CASES AND THEIR COMPONENTS OVER THE STOCK UNITS. ANOTHER ONE OF THEM IS THIS. THE ORIGINAL MID PLATES ARE MADE OUT OF ALUMINUM AND PRONE TO CRACKING AS YOU CAN SEE THERE. AUTO GEAR'S PLATES ARE MADE OUT OF CAST IRON, AND THEREFORE MUCH STRONGER. ALSO, THE DRIVE GEAR BEARINGS AND THE MID PLATE BEARINGS ARE SEALED UNITS VERSUS THE STOCK ORIGINAL BEARINGS, WHICH WERE OPEN ROLLERS AND PRONE TO CONTAMINATION AND ANY KIND OF MATERIAL THAT MIGHT BUILD UP IN THERE, INDUCING PREMATURE FAILURE.

(TOMMY)>> ONCE PHIL HAS PRESSED THE FIRST AND SECOND SPEED CLUTCHES ONTO THE MAIN SHAFT, HE CAN DO THE SAME WITH THE SPEEDO GEAR.

(STEVE)>> PHIL'S GETTING READY TO INSTALL THE MAIN DRIVE IN THE NEW TRANSMISSION. BUT PHIL, BEFORE YOU DO, I KNOW YOU GUYS OFFER TWO DIFFERENT OPTIONS. CAN YOU GIVE US A BRIEF EXPLANATION OF WHAT THEY MIGHT BE BETWEEN THE TWO OF THEM.

(PHIL)>> THIS IS MORE LIKE THE ORIGINAL MUNCIE. THEY USED A SHIM WHERE THEY WOULD PUT IT OVER, AND THEN THE NUT HAS TO GO THIS WAY BECAUSE THE OIL WOULD COME THROUGH THE INPUT GEAR. SO WE HAVE A WRENCH THAT'S MADE TO HOLD THIS NUT SO THAT YOU CAN TIGHTEN IT. AND WITH OUR INPUT GEAR, YOU NOTICE THAT IT'S A LITTLE LONGER. WE'VE GOT A LONGER PILOT. THIS GIVES YOU MORE STRENGTH THROUGH HERE BECAUSE NOW YOU'RE NOT ROLLING YOUR SPLINE RIGHT INTO THE SHAFT.

AND THEN YOUR SEAL WILL RIDE ON THE FRONT AND KEEP THE OIL FROM COMING THROUGH THE FRONT RETAINER. AND BEFORE WE CAN INSTALL OUR MAIN DRIVE WE HAVE TO

PUT SOME GREASE ON THIS BEARING TO KEEP

THESE ROLLERS IN PLACE. WE HAVE A CARDBOARD SLEEVE THAT COMES WITH THIS BEARING AS IT'S SHIPPED TO KEEP IT CONTAINED. BUT ONCE THAT SLEEVE COMES OFF THE ROLLERS CAN GO

EVERY DIFFERENT DIRECTION. THERE WE GO, BEARING'S IN PLACE, NOW WE HAVE A COMPLETE MAIN SHAFT READY TO BE INSTALLED INTO THE CASE. I'M GONNA APPLY THE RTV TO OUR SURFACE, HELP OUR GASKET. PUT THE GASKET ON. IN ORDER TO GET THIS SHAFT TO GO INTO THE CASE, I NEED TO MOVE THIS SLEEVE INTO THE FOURTH SPEED POSITION, WHICH IS DRIVE. AND THAT'LL CLEAR OUR THIRD SPEED STUFF ON THE CLUSTER.

WE'RE GONNA INSTALL OUR MAIN DRIVE BEARING, AND WE HAVE A SPECIAL TOOL THAT WE'LL USE TO PRESS IT IN.

SOME PEOPLE GENTLY MASSAGE IT WITH A HAMMER, BUT THAT'S NOT THE CORRECT WAY OF DOING IT. 20 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE ON THE FRONT RETAINER AND ON THE COUNTER SHAFT BOLTS, SO WE'LL DO THOSE

AT THE SAME TIME.

(STEVE)>> WE'RE GETTING READY TO SET THE SIDE COVER IN AND I WANT TO SHOW YOU GUYS A COUPLE OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN AUTO GEAR'S NEW ONE AND THE ORIGINAL. FIRST OF ALL THEIRS IS MADE OUT OF STEEL AND THE ORIGINAL WAS, LIKE I SAID, ALUMINUM. THE SHIFT FORKS THEMSELVES, THIS IS THE STOCK DESIGN WHERE THE PADS WOULD HOLD THE SHIFT SLEEVE JUST OUT HERE ON THE ENDS. AUTO GEAR'S NEW FORKS HAVE A PAD THAT GOES COMPLETELY AROUND THE WHOLE 180 DEGREES. THIS MEANS AS THE TRANSMISSION AGES, IT'LL

KEEP IT FROM ROCKING. THE CASE ALSO HAS A ROLLER BEARING INSIDE, WHICH MEANS YOU WILL NOT GET THE ROLL IN THE EGG SHAPED HOLE THAT COMES FROM YEARS OF SERVICING THE TRANSMISSION, WHICH CAN EFFECT THE SHIFT. THE SIDE COVER THEN GOES ONTO THE HOUSING BEING CAREFUL TO MAKE SURE THAT THE FORK'S LAYING CORRECTLY.

THEN WE'LL JUST INSTALL THE VENT ON THE TOP. WELL THERE YOU GO. THANKS TO THE GUYS AT AUTO GEAR AND PHIL, WE'RE ONE STEP CLOSER TO GETTING OUR COPO ON THE STREET AND BEING ABLE TO HAVE A GOOD TIME WITH IT.

THANKS PHIL, WE REALLY APPRECIATE IT.

(PHIL)>> WELL THANKS FOR HAVING ME. IT'S BEEN A GREAT HONOR AND ENJOY YOUR TRANSMISSION, GOOD LUCK!

(STEVE)>> THANK YOU!

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE'LL SHOW YOU THE TOOLS YOU CAN USE TO SAVE YOUR FACTORY GLASS WHEN YOU REMOVE IT.

PLUS HOW TO PREVENT CORROSION ON RAW METAL EASILY AND AFFORDABLY.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. EVERYDAY WE'RE GETTING CLOSER AND CLOSER TO TAKING A RIDE IN OUR BIG BLOCK WITH A FOUR SPEED CAMARO. NOW THIS BLACK PAINT IS STARTING TO MAKE THIS THING LOOK PRETTY SINISTER, NOT TO MENTION OUR WHEELS AND TIRES. WE PUT IN A CALL TO OUR BUDDIES OVER AT COKER TIRE AND THEY HOOKED US UP BIG TIME. FOR THE TIRES WE'RE ROCKING A SET OF THESE FIRESTONE WIDE OVAL F-70 14'S. THESE ARE TRUE BIAS PLY TIRES LIKE THESE CARS WOULD

HAVE COME WITH BACK IN THE DAY. AND THEY MAINTAIN AN APPEARANCE THAT'S ACCURATE TO THAT AS WELL. WE'VE GOT THOSE WRAPPED AROUND ONE OF THE ICONIC PIECES OF THE COPO LOOK, THESE BASE STEEL WHEELS THAT I'VE SPRAYED BODY COLOR. THESE 14 BY SEVEN WHEELS WILL EVENTUALLY GET A SET OF CENTER CAPS FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES THAT WILL ACT LIKE A LITTLE BIT OF JEWELRY FOR THIS OLD GAL. WITH THE OUTSIDE OF OUR CAMARO WELL ON ITS WAY, IT'S TIME TO START MAKING SOME MOTIONS TO BE ABLE TO PUT THE INTERIOR IN IT, AND ONE THOSE IS BEING ABLE TO PAINT THE TOP SIDE OF THIS DASH BECAUSE IT'S PRETTY SUN FADED. AND TO DO THAT I'M GONNA HAVE TO PULL OUT THIS WINDOW. NOW SOMEBODY'S REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD SOME TIME BACK. SO I'M GONNA TRY REALLY HARD NOT TO SCREW IT UP.

AND SO TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU A FEW TIPS AND TRICKS TO USE JUST IN CASE YOU NEED TO TRY THIS AT HOME. ONE OF YOUR OPTIONS FOR REMOVING GLASS IS WHAT I CALL A PULL TYPE WINDOW KNIFE. NOW YOU JUST HOOK THIS BLADE RIGHT UNDER THE EDGE.

THEN JUST SIMPLY PULL IT ACROSS THE GLASS. THEN THERE'S JUST THE WINDSHIELD KNIFE THAT TAKES A DISPOSABLE BLADE THAT YOU CAN REPLACE REALLY EASILY

AND IT WORKS REALLY WELL WHENEVER CUTTING ALONG THE BOTTOM SIDE OF A DASH. AND THEN THERE'S THE BIG BAD BOY, THE AIR KNIFE OR PNEUMATIC KNIFE. NOW THIS THING WILL DEFINITELY GET THE JOB DONE

BUT IT KINDA REQUIRES A FEEL FOR CUTTING. THEN THERE'S THE OLD SCHOOL ONE THAT'S REFERRED TO AS THE PIANO WIRE TYPE.

NOW YOU RUN THIS THROUGH THE GLASS AND THEN YOU KINDA SAW IT BACK AND FORTH, KINDA LIKE AN OLD TWO MAN SAW. THE FIRST ONE I'M GONNA DEMONSTRATE IS THE PULL KNIFE WITH A LITTLE BIT OF GLASS CLEANER. YOU MAY BE WONDERING WHY IN THE WORLD AM

I USING GLASS CLEANER? WELL ON THIS DRY RUBBER I'M GONNA USE A LITTLE BIT OF IT FOR SOME LUBRICATION BECAUSE IT HELPS IN THE CUTTING PROCESS. NOW YOU JUST WANT TO PUT THE BLADE IN AS LOW AS YOU CAN AND THEN JUST KINDA TWIST IT. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE PULLING ACROSS HERE, I LIKE TO TURN THE BLADE, LEAN IT BACK JUST A BIT. WHAT THAT DOES IS IT TURNS THE BLADE EDGE UP TO RIGHT ALONG THE EDGE OF THAT GLASS CAUSE OTHERWISE YOU'LL KINDA CHEW THROUGH ALL THAT RUBBER, IT'S KINDA DIFFICULT TO DO. NOW THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA USE IS THE JUST STANDARD OLE KNIFE. THE BEAUTY BEHIND THIS THING IS IT'S LONG AND HAS A LOT OF LEVERAGE TO IT. NOW THE NEXT TOOL IS THE AIR KNIFE, AND ALL YOU'D SIMPLY DO IS PUT THIS RIGHT THROUGH THE SEALER, PUSH THE BUTTON, AND THAT THING WOULD START DOING ITS JOB. BUT I KNOW MY SKILL SET WITH THIS THING, SO I'M GONNA USE THE MORE PRIMITIVE STYLE TOOLS, THAT WAY I RUN LESS CHANCE OF KINDA SCREWING STUFF UP BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE A REAL GOOD FEEL FOR THIS THING. NEXT IS THE PIANO WIRE TYPE.

YOU'VE GOTTA MAKE YOU A HOLE FOR THAT PIECE OF WIRE. THEN YOU TAKE THIS SMALL PIECE OF WIRE, PUSH BACK THROUGH IF YOU CAN, AND THEN FEED THAT PIECE OF WIRE

INTO YOUR PULL HANDLE. WE'RE JUST ABOUT READY TO START CUTTING. YOU DON'T WANT TO BE PULLING UP LIKE THAT AND TRYING TO SAW BECAUSE THIS ENGINE AND WIRE WILL DIG INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE GLASS, BUST IT, CHIP IT, SCRATCH IT, CHEW IT UP. WELL THERE YOU GO, REMOVING GLASS ISN'T ALL THAT DIFFICULT WHEN YOU HAVE THE PROPER TOOLS.

AND SO FOR YOU GUYS OUT THERE THAT ARE AFRAID OF BREAKING GLASS, DON'T BE TOO AFRAID, JUST PAY ATTENTION. UNLESS IT'S ALREADY BROKEN, THEN DON'T CARE IF YOU BREAK

IT OR NOT, JUST GET THE JOB DONE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, MANK GETS OUT HIS HOT PLATE AND COOKS UP A SIDE BY SIDE COMPARISON TO SHOW YOU HOW TO KEEP HEAT FROM RUINING YOUR SUMMER TIME CRUISE. PLUS A LOOK AT OUR COPO'S CLUTCH.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE KEEP CHIPPING AWAY AT OUR OLD CAMARO, GETTING IT CLOSER AND CLOSER TO HAVING IT ROAD WORTHY, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF AN ISSUE THAT'LL MAKE THIS THING A LOT MORE COMFORTABLE WHILE RIDING AROUND IN IT. NOW WITH OUR COPO, THIS THING DOESN'T HAVE A/C ON IT.

SO TO MAKE IT AS COMFORTABLE AS WE CAN, WE'RE GONNA COAT THE FLOOR WITH SOME LIZARD SKIN THERMAL COATING. WHAT THAT MEANS IS IT'S GONNA REDUCE THE HEAT

TRANSFER 25, 30, OR MORE DEGREES.

AND HOW THAT'S GONNA HELP OUT? LETS SAY YOU'RE SITTING AT A STOP LIGHT, AND IT'S AUGUST, AND IT'S HOTTER THAN BLUE BLAZES, WHEN THAT CAR'S JUST SITTING THERE RUNNING, THE FLOOR BOARDS SEEM LIKE

THEY'RE JUST ON FIRE SOMETIMES. BUT THIS STUFF WILL MAKE IT A LOT EASIER ON YOU.

(STEVE)>> WE WANTED TO SHOW YOU GUYS JUST HOW MUCH OF A DIFFERENCE USING THIS COATING ON YOUR CAR CAN MAKE. SO WE'VE SET UP A SIMPLE TEST WITH A HOT PLATE AND WE'VE COATED ONE HALF OF IT WITH THE LIZARD SKIN AND LEFT THE OTHER SIDE BARE. OKAY, I'M GONNA TAKE THE INFRARED THERMOMETER, PUT IT ON THE UNTREATED SIDE.

YOU CAN SEE THE SURFACE TEMPERATURE

IS AROUND 220, 225. AND WE'LL TAKE IT OVER TO HERE AND THE TEMPERATURE IS ALL THE WAY DOWN TO 195, 194, 193, RIGHT IN THAT NEIGHBORHOOD. THAT'S QUITE A DIFFERENCE AS PROMISED.

THAT WAS ABSOLUTELY THE BEST COMPARISON WE COULD HAVE EVER HAVE GOT. THIS THING ISN'T EVEN MELTING YET AT ALL. THIS THING, IT START MOVING LIKE A SLUG LEAVING A TRAIL GOING ACROSS. WELL YOU CAN'T ASK FOR BETTER PERFORMANCE THAN THAT OUT OF A PRODUCT.

IT DID EXACTLY WHAT THEY SAID IT WOULD AND DELIVERED. SO WHAT DO YOU THINK? GO PUT SOME IN THE CAR. THE SPRAY KIT COMES WITH A MIXING WAND, WHICH YOU CAN ATTACH TO A STANDARD DRILL TO MIX IT THOROUGHLY. MAKE SURE THIS STUFF IS GOOD AND MIXED UP. A TIP WHEN POURING IT INTO THE GUN, POUR IT FROM SEVERAL INCHES ABOVE THE CAN AND THAT'LL KEEP IT WRANGLED AND PREVENT A MESS.

(TOMMY)>> THIS STUFF IS VERY EASY TO SPRAY, YOU JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SURFACE YOU'RE SPRAYING IT ON IS CLEAN AND OIL FREE. YOU ALSO WANT TO AVOID SPRAYING OVER RAW STEEL. SO WE'VE HIT OUR FLOOR WITH SOME DUPLICOLOR ETCH PRIMER

WHERE IT WAS NEEDED. HOLD THE GUN ABOUT 10, 12 INCHES FROM THE SURFACE, GET A SLIGHT OVERLAP, AND YOU'VE GOT IT MADE.

(STEVE)>> ONCE WE'VE GIVEN IT ABOUT 24 HOURS TO DRY OUT, OUR FLOOR IS READY TO THINK ABOUT INTERIOR COMPONENTS. LIZARD SKIN ALSO CAN BE USED TO INSULATE AGAINST RADIANT SUN HEAT UNDER YOUR HEAD LINER. OUR HEAD LINER'S IN GREAT SHAPE THOUGH,

IT JUST NEEDS CLEANED. SO WE'LL LEAVE IT ALONE. ALRIGHT, WE'VE GOT LIZARD SKIN APPLIED TO THE FLOOR OF THE '69 COPO CAMARO. I WANT YOU GUYS TO KNOW THAT THE ONE THAT WE USED IN THE WHITE BUCKET IS FOR HEAT CONTROL BECAUSE OF OUR BIG POWER PLANT, BECAUSE OF THE BIG EXHAUST IT'S GONNA HAVE, AND BECAUSE IT'S JUST BASICALLY A LIGHT WEIGHT CAR AND WE'RE GONNA TRANSFER A LOT OF IT. ANOTHER PRODUCT FROM LIZARD SKIN IS THE SOUND DEADENER. YOU CAN USE BOTH OF THEM IF YOU WANT TO, BUT IF YOU DO YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER THAT THE SOUND CONTROL GOES ON FIRST AND THE THERMO CONTROL GOES ON SECOND. YOU'LL WANT TO APPLY THEM IN THAT ORDER SO THAT THEY'LL BOTH DO THEIR JOB TOGETHER ONCE APPLIED.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, SAVING YOUR SHEET METAL FROM RUST IS WAY EASIER THAT YOU MIGHT THINK!

(STEVE)>> ALRIGHT, NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR GEAR BOX BUILT WITH THE HELP FROM AUTO GEAR, WE'RE READY TO MATE IT TO OUR 427 TO PUT THIS PACKAGE TOGETHER. WE'VE DECIDED TO GO WITH THE OEM STYLE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY LIKE THE ONE WE GOT FROM HAYS, WHICH WE KNOW WILL WORK WELL BECAUSE OF THEIR YEARS OF PROVEN PERFORMANCE. WE'RE ALSO GOING TO USE THE MECHANICAL STYLE LINKAGE

INSTEAD OF THE HYDRAULIC, WHICH IS AVAILABLE. BUT THIS, MORE GUYS THAT ARE STILL IN DRAG RACING, AND MORE GUYS THAT ARE STILL INTO MUSCLE CARS PREFER THE FEEL OF THIS MECHANICAL LINKAGE WITH THEIR FOOT ON THAT PEDAL. HAYS CLUTCH KITS COME IN THE THREE MAJOR STYLES OF CLUTCHES AND EACH KIT COMES WITH A PRESSURE PLATE, THROW OUT BEARING, THE DISC ASSEMBLY, AND THE CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL. AND ONE THING THAT MAY INTEREST YOU GUYS, HAYS CLUTCH DISCS ARE MADE OUT OF COMPLETELY ORGANIC MATERIALS.

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL USE A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL TO, WELL, ALIGN THE CLUTCH. THEN THE PRESSURE PLATE CAN GO OVER TOP OF IT. WHEN YOU TIGHTEN YOUR PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS DOWN, MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S SPECS TO GET THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF TORQUE.

(STEVE)>> IF YOU CAN DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE'S OUT OF THE CAR, IT'S A WHOLE LOT EASIER THAN LAYING ON YOUR BACK UNDER A CAR IN THE DARK TRYING TO DO IT UP HILL BOTH WAYS. ALRIGHT TOM, IF YOU WANT TO FINISH BOLTING THIS UP, I'M GONNA TAKE OFF, GET SOME MORE PARTS, I'LL BE RIGHT BACK.

(TOMMY)>> HURRY UP!

HE AIN'T HURRYING UP. SOME ARP ASSEMBLY LUBE IS RECOMMENDED WHEN YOU'RE USING ARP BOLTS. AND SINCE WE'RE PUTTING THESE SUPER STRONG BOLTS INTO AN ALUMINUM BLOCK, IT'S A MUST. THERE YOU GO, WE'RE ONE STEP CLOSER TO DROPPING THIS BIG BAD DUDE OFF INTO OUR COPO. YOU GUYS STICK AROUND, MANK'S GOT SOMETHING HE'D LIKE TO SHOW YOU.

(STEVE)>> JUST ABOUT EVERY PAINT AND BODY PROJECT WE START ON THE POWERBLOCK BEGINS WITH US STRIPPING BODY PANELS DOWN TO BARE METAL. AND FOR WHATEVER REASON WE CAN'T GET TO PRIMING IT OR APPLYING BODY FILLER RIGHT AWAY, WITHIN HOURS SURFACE RUST CAN START TO SET IN.

(TOMMY)>> ONE OF THE WORST THINGS THAT CAN CAUSE CORROSION IS FINGER AND HAND PRINTS. THEY WILL QUICKLY TURN INTO RUST ON AN UNPROTECTED PANEL.

(STEVE)>> YOU CAN PREVENT THAT BY WIPING DOWN BARE PANELS WITH WD 40, WHICH WILL PROTECT THE SURFACE UNTIL YOU'RE READY FOR THE NEXT STEP. THERE'S NO SILICONE IN WD 40. SO WHEN YOU'RE READY FOR PRIMER OR FILLER, SIMPLY WIPE THE SURFACE CLEAN OF WD 40 AND CONTINUE ON WITH TH REPAIR.

(TOMMY)>> YOU'LL WANT TO USE A CLEANING OR PAINT PREP SOLVENT TO REMOVE IT FROM THE PANEL. JUST A FEW SPRAYS AND WIPE IT AWAY. IT'S IMPERATIVE TO REMOVE THE WD 40 BEFORE YOU PAINT AND/OR DO ANY BODY WORK TO THE SURFACE. THEN YOU'RE READY TO MOVE ON.

(STEVE)>> I KNOW WHAT YOU MAY HAVE HEARD BUT YOU CAN PAINT OVER PANELS THAT HAVE BEEN PROTECTED BY WD 40. YOU JUST HAVE TO BE SURE TO COMPLETELY CLEAN IT BEFORE YOU DO SO. I KNOW SEVERAL HIGH END SHOPS THAT USE WD 40 TO PROTECT

THEIR PROJECTS WHEN THEY'RE IN BARE METAL.

(TOMMY)>> MANK'S GONNA HIT THE DOOR WITH A QUICK COAT OF DUPLICOLOR AS A DEMONSTRATION SO THAT YOU CAN SEE THAT ONCE THE PANEL IS WIPED DOWN, PAINTING IS NO PROBLEM.

(STEVE)>> IT'S A GREAT WAY TO SAVE YOURSELF FROM HAVING TO REMOVE A BUNCH OF RUST FROM YOUR BODY PANELS AND

IT'S REALLY AFFORDABLE TOO. IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW TODAY, GO TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.