Build By Request Part 1

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR YOU EMAILED AND WE LISTENED. IT'S ANOTHER BUILT BY REQUEST SPECIAL. GOT A BUSTED REAR END HOUSING OR ENGINE BLOCK? WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO WELD CAST IRON. LETS FIX YOUR FLOPPY DOOR HINGE, AND WHY ARE THERE SO MANY TYPES OF PRIMER? FIND OUT RIGHT NOW, PLUS A FAST FORD THAT RULED THE STRIP.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WE'VE GOT A LITTLE REPAIR THAT WE'VE GOT TO DO TODAY IN THE SHOP AND A COUPLE OF YOU AT HOME HAVE SENT US SOME EMAILS REGARDING THIS TYPE OF THING. NOW THIS IS AN OLD TOP TO DRILL PRESS AND YOU CAN SAY

IT'S SEEN ITS BETTER DAYS CAUSE IT'S BROKEN IN HALF. WELL YOU'VE PROBABLY JUST SITTING AT HOME SAYING, AW, JUST WELD IT AND MOVE ON. WELL THE PROBLEM IS THIS THING IS MADE OF CAST IRON, AND NORMAL WELDING TECHNIQUES HAVE A TENDENCY NOT TO WORK. THE MATERIAL WILL EITHER CRACK OR BREAK APART AGAIN SHORTLY AFTER IT'S WELDED. THE REASON IS THIS, WHEN CAST IRON IS HEATED TO ITS

MELTING POINT AND THEN RAPIDLY COOLED DOWN, THE CAST IRON CAN'T WITHSTAND THE EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION RATES AND CAUSES IT TO CRACK OR BREAK.

NOW USUALLY WHEN PEOPLE START RUNNING INTO ISSUES, WHAT THEY'VE TRIED TO DO IS JUST RUN THIS BIG OLE FAT BEAD AND JUST LET IT COOL DOWN OR EVEN WORSE, TRIED TO FORCE COOL IT BY USING WATER OR EVEN AIR. THE KEY TO WELDING THIS STUFF IS TO EITHER NEVER LET IT GET TOO HOT OR DON'T LET IT COOL OFF TOO QUICKLY ONCE IT DOES GET HOT. THAT MEANS THERE'S TWO DIFFERENT WAYS TO ACHIEVE THE SAME GOAL. THAT IS WELDING CAST IRON. AND BOTH OF THOSE, WELL YOU'LL BE USING AN OLD

SCHOOL STICK WELDER. YOU'LL ALSO BE USING SOME NICKEL RODS. NOW THIS STUFF IS IDEAL WHENEVER YOU'RE TRYING TO WELD UP CAST IRON. ONE OF THOSE WAYS YOU HAVE TO PREHEAT THE PIECES THAT YOU'RE TRYING TO WELD BACK TOGETHER. NOW CAST IRON IS POROUS. SO IF YOU'RE WORKING WITH A NASTY, OILY, GREASY PIECE, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO USE THE TORCH AND BURN OFF ANY OF THE CONTAMINANTS TO MAKE SURE YOU'VE GOT A GOOD WELD. WHILE WE'RE DOING THIS THE GOAL ISN'T NECESSARILY TO HEAT THE ACTUAL METAL, WE JUST WANT TO GET RID OF THE CONTAMINANTS. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE DOING A REPAIR LIKE THIS, YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS FOR WELDING RODS. ONE OF THOSE IS THE E-99 ROD. NOW IT'S THE PURE NICKEL AND IT'S THE SOFTER OF THE TWO. THE OTHER KIND IS THE NICKEL 55 ROD, WHICH IS HARDER BUT THEY MAKE THIS ROD IN A MACHINEABLE AND NONMACHINEABLE FORM. 55 IS ALSO MORE TOLERANT TO IMPURITIES AS WELL.

IF YOU'RE USING THE PREHEAT METHOD, ONCE THE PARTS ARE BROUGHT UP TO THE DESIRED TEMP, YOU CAN START THE WELDING PROCESS. AND THEN HERE COMES THE HARD PART. YOU'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PART DOESN'T COOL OFF TOO QUICKLY. SOME PEOPLE USE A TORCH AND A ROSE BUD AND KINDA DANCE IT OVER THE PART TO KEEP IT FROM DOING THAT. ANOTHER WAY IS YOU COULD TAKE IT AND WRAP IT WITH A PIECE OF INSULATION. OR HECK, EVEN COVER IT WITH SAND. ALL TOGETHER THIS PROCESS CAN BE TIME CONSUMING AND A LITTLE DIFFICULT TO PULL OFF. BUT THERE IS SOME GOOD NEWS. USING SOME E-99 ROD AND BARELY GETTING THIS PART ABOVE ROOM TEMPERATURE AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT COOLING IT DOWN TOO QUICK. WITH THE PIECE SET IN PLACE, I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT IT GOES BACK TOGETHER GOOD AND STRAIGHT. I'M GONNA START OFF BY MARKING AN OUTLINE OF IT ON A TABLE TOP THAT I CAN USE FOR A GUIDE ONCE

I SET IT BACK DOWN.

AND I NEED TO CLEAN UP THE EDGES WHERE I'M GOING TO BE DOING THE WELDING AT WITH A GRINDER. THIS IS TO HELP KEEP ANY OF THE NASTINESS OUT OF THE WELD AND ALSO BROADEN THE SURFACE AREA OF MY WELDING JOINT.

NOW USING THE OUTLINE I MADE ON THE TABLE TOP TELLS ME EXACTLY WHERE THE PIECES NEED TO GO, AND I CAN BEGIN REASSEMBLY. SOME CLAMPS MAKE LIFE A LOT EASIER WITH THIS. I'LL MAKE A QUICK LITTLE WELD ON THE OUTSIDE AND

FOLLOW IT UP BY PENNING IT WITH A HAMMER LIGHTLY. WHAT THIS PEENING DOES IS TWO THINGS. IT REMOVES THE SLAG WHILE THE WHILE THE WELD IS STILL A LITTLE BIT HOT, AND IT RELIEVES STRESS IN THE WELD.

WITH A TOUCHY PROCEDURE LIKE WELDING CAST IRON, TAKING

THE STRESS DOWN WHILE IT COOLS IS A MUST. THE ACTUAL WELD PATTERN THAT YOU USE CAN BE THE SAME HERE AS YOU MIGHT FIND IN MIG WELDING OR STICK WELDING TYPICAL MATERIALS. I'LL DRESS UP THE WELDS WITH AN ELECTRIC GRINDER AND THAT'S PRETTY MUCH THE SIZE OF IT. NOW THIS CAN BE KINDA A BEAR TO MASTER BUT THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH FINDING A FEW OLD PIECES LAYING AROUND AND PRACTICING ON THEM BECAUSE THIS TECHNIQUE CAN BE USED TO SAVE SOME OF THOSE HARD TO FIND RARE PARTS. AND THAT IN ITSELF WILL MORE THAN PAY FOR ITSELF.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, LETS GET THAT DOOR TO SHUT CORRECTLY WITH A HOW TO HINGE FIX.

(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, FOR OUR NEXT PROJECT I'M BRINGING BACK A PIECE YOU'VE SEEN BEFORE. THIS IS THE DOOR OFF OF OUR '69 OLDSMOBILE THAT TOMMY DID A LITTLE RUST REPAIR ON HERE IN THE CORNER. HE WAS ABLE TO DO THAT PATCH WHILE AT THE SAME TIME MAINTAINING THE FACTORY PINCH WELD. THE RIGHT WAY TO MAKE SURE THAT THE DOOR KEEPS

ITS STOCK APPEARANCE. IT TURNS OUT THAT WASN'T THE ONLY PROBLEM OUR DOOR HAD. WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO ADDRESS THESE HINGES BECAUSE THEY'RE REALLY LOOSE AND WORE OUT. THIS CAN BECOME A MULTILAYERED PROBLEM AND HERE'S WHY. ANY MOVEMENT AT THE HINGE HERE WILL BE GREATLY EXAGGERATED BY THE TIME IT GETS TO THE OTHER END OF THE DOOR WHERE IT OPENS. THE DOOR WILL DROP AND CAN CAUSE PAINT DAMAGE. IT CAN ALSO DAMAGE THE STRIKER THAT HOLDS THE DOOR. AND ON TOP WHERE THE GLASS GOES INTO THE SEALS IT'LL CAUSE MISALIGNMENT, WHICH MEANS IT'LL LEAK IN THE RAIN AND CAUSE SEVERE WIND NOISE WHEN YOU WANT THE

CAR TO BE SEALED UP. SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS SHOW YOU GUYS A LOW COST WAY TO ADDRESS THIS ISSUE THAT'S SO EASY YOU CAN DO IT IN YOUR OWN GARAGE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> BUILD ON A BUDGET, MUSCLE CAR PROJECTS

THAT SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY.

(STEVE)>> WELL I'M GONNA TAKE THE HINGE OFF OF THIS THING BUT BEFORE I DO, I WANT TO SHARE A LITTLE SECRET WITH YOU GUYS. ANY PANELS ON THE VEHICLE WHICH ARE REMOVABLE AND ADJUSTABLE, SUCH AS DOORS, FENDERS, HOODS, WHICH ARE A PAIN IN THE BUTT TO ALIGN. BEFORE I TAKE THEM OFF I'LL DRILL A COUPLE OF HOLES THAT I CAN USE AS ALIGNMENT PINS LATER TO PUT BACK BASICALLY IN THE SAME SPOT AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS UP WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF TIME BECAUSE YOU'RE PROBABLY GONNA BEE ABOUT 95 PERCENT BACK TO WHERE YOU STARTED.

WITH THIS TECHNIQUE BIGGER IS DEFINITELY NOT BETTER. AN EIGHTH INCH DRILL BIT IS MORE THAN BIG ENOUGH. DON'T KNOCK A THREE QUARTER INCH HOLE IN IT. NOW YOU CAN SEE HOW WORE OUT IT IS. IT'S PRETTY BAD. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TO TIGHTEN UP THESE HINGES IS INSTALL A SET OF DORMAN BUSHINGS THAT WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING. THIS KIT IS UNIVERSAL AND HAS ENOUGH DIFFERENT BUSHINGS FOR MOST OLDER DOMESTIC APPLICATIONS. SUMMIT ALSO CARRIES THE COMPLETE KITS THAT HAVE THE HINGE PINS IN THEM, BUT OURS ARE IN GOOD ENOUGH SHAPE. WE THINK WE'LL BE GOOD TO GO WITH JUST THE BUSHINGS.

THIS PART'S PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. I JUST NEED TO GRAB A PUNCH AND DRIVE OUT THE PIVOT PIN. THE HINGE NEEDS TO BE REAMED OUT TO ACCOMMODATE THE NEW BUSHINGS WHICH WILL BE INSTALLED. THE SIZE OF THE BIT YOU WANT WILL BE DETERMINED BY THE BUSHINGS THAT WORK BEST IN YOUR CAR. I MAY HAVE TO TAKE IT JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE. WITH THE HOLE KNOCKED OUT JUST ENOUGH TO STILL ALLOW A REALLY SNUG FIT, THE NURALS ON THE BUSHING CAN HAVE PLENTY OF METAL TO GRAB ONTO. I THINK THAT MIGHT WORK. WELL YOU DON'T WANT IT TOO TIGHT. YOU COULD BREAK THE BUSHING. A VICE CAN PUSH THE BUSHING IN MOST OF THE WAY WITH A FEW HAMMER TAPS FINISHING THAT SIDE.

ANOTHER WAY TO GET THE BUSHING ALL THE WAY IN IS TO USE A PIECE OF SCRAP TUBING TO ALLOW YOU TO SEAT IN. THE PIN WILL NEED A QUICK CLEAN UP WITH A GRINDER TO ELIMINATE MOST CORROSION, PRIMER, AND PAINT. WELL IT LOOKS LIKE WE GOT LUCKY ENOUGH THAT WE CAN GET AWAY WITH PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER AS IS WITH JUST A LITTLE POLISHING WE DID ON THE PIN.

BUT GUYS DON'T BE SURPRISED IF YOU HAVE TO DO A LITTLE REAMING ON THE BUSHING ITSELF, AND ALONG WITH THE WORK YOU DID ON THE PIN, TO GET IT TO FIT. IT'S NOT UNUSUAL FOR THAT TO HAVE TO HAVE HAPPEN.

MUCH BETTER, MUCH BETTER! OKAY, WE'RE READY TO PUT THE HINGE BACK ON THE DOOR, AND IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, WHEN I TOOK THIS THING APART I MADE TWO LITTLE EIGHTH INCH HOLES THAT I TOLD YOU I WAS GONNA USE AS KIND OF A CHEATER. I JUST USE TWO LITTLE ALLEN KEYS AS KIND OF A GUIDE, PUT THEM BACK IN THE HOLES. AND WHAT THAT'LL DO, AND YOU CAN SEE BY THE WAY IT LINES BACK UP WITH THE PAINT, IS IT GETS IT REAL CLOSE TO WHERE IT STARTED, WHICH WILL ELIMINATE LOTS OF TIME FOR THE FINAL FIT WHEN WE PUT THE DOOR BACK ON THE CAR. AND YOU CAN ALSO SEE THAT OUR PIN KIT WORKED BECAUSE NOW I CANNOT EVEN MOVE THE HINGE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND TO SEE WHAT FORD CAME UP

WITH TO FINALLY END THE REIN OF THE MAX WEDGE MOPARS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY'S FLASHBACK, A 1964 FORD THUNDERBOLT.

(STEVE)>> I'VE BEEN A FORD MAN ALL MY LIFE, AND THIS WAS THE FIRST CHANCE TO REALLY GET A HOLD OF A REAL

SUPER STOCKER THAT WAS MADE JUST FOR DRAG RACING.

(TOMMY)>> HE'S TALKING ABOUT THE CAR HE RACED BACK IN 1964, FORD'S LIGHTNING FAST THUNDERBOLT. THESE CARS PUT THE BLUE OVAL ON TOP IN SUPER STOCK, EDGING OUT THE MAX WEDGE MOPARS THAT HAD RULED THE STRIP FOR SO MANY YEARS.

FORD TEAMED UP WITH DEARBORN STEEL TUBING TO TRANSFORM

ITS HUMBLE FAIRLANE 500 INTO A DRAG DEMON. ONLY 100 WERE BUILT AND YOU HAD TO BE A DIE HARD RACER TO GET YOUR HANDS ON ONE.

(STEVE)>> STEVE TOOK ONE LOOK AT THE CAR IN A MAGAZINE AND HE WAS HOOKED. HE'D BEEN RACING SINCE 1958 WHEN HE WAS ONLY 16. SO HE TOOK ALL OF HIS TIME SLIPS AND TROPHIES TO THE FORD DEALER TO PROVE THAT HE WAS THE REAL DEAL. IT WORKED, BUT THEY KEPT TRYING TO SELL HIM AN AUTOMATIC.

(STEVE)>> AND I'D SAY, NAW, AUTOMATICS ARE FOR LITTLE OLD LADIES AND SCHOOL TEACHERS, AND I'D LIKE TO HAVE A FOUR SPEED.

(TOMMY)>> HE FINALLY GOT HIS WISH IN MARCH OF '64 AND TOWED THE CAR ALL THE WAY HOME FROM MICHIGAN TO ALABAMA THROUGH A SNOW STORM. ONCE HOME HE STARTED BLUE PRINTING THE MOTOR WITH THE HELP OF THE LEGENDARY DON NICHOLS.

(STEVE)>> THE FORMULA FOR THE THUNDERBOLT WAS SIMPLE, BIG POWER IN A LITTLE CAR. THE MONSTER 427 WAS SHOE HORNED IN AND TOPPED OFF WITH A HIGH RISE MANIFOLD AND DUAL HOLLEY FOUR BARREL CARBURETORS. AIR WAS GULPED IN THROUGH TUBES THAT LOOKED LIKE HEADLIGHT BEZELS. RATED AT 425 HORSE, IT MADE UPWARDS OF 600 IN RACE TUNE.

(TOMMY)>> TO SHAVE OFF WEIGHT, FIBERGLASS WAS USED FOR THE TEAR DROP HOOD AND FENDERS. THE BUMPERS AND GRILL WERE ALUMINUM, AND THE WINDOWS WERE MADE OF PLEXIGLASS.

(RICK)>> THE INSIDES WERE STRIPPED DOWN TO THE BARE

ESSENTIALS, NO HEATER, NO RADIO, NO CARPET, JUST SOME VAN SEATS, AND A FOUR SPEED, AND TACH. ALL TOLD IT CAME IN JUST 20 POUNDS ABOVE THE MINIMUM

SUPER STOCK WEIGHT.

(TOMMY)>> UNDERNEATH THE SUSPENSION WAS BEEFED UP WITH ASYMMETRICAL HEAVY DUTY LEAF SPRINGS AND TWO INCH BY THREE INCH RECTANGULAR TRACTION BARS.

YOU CAN SEE HOW THE CAR HOPED UP ALMOST SIX INCHES ON LAUNCH.

(RICK)>> STEVE WON HIS FIRST TIME OUT AND RACED THE CAR FOR OVER A YEAR ALL OVER THE SOUTHEAST, TAKING ON GUYS LIKE BILLY JACOBS AND EMMETT AUSTIN.

(STEVE)>> ALL OF THE STUFF THAT I DID I HAD TO DO ON MY OWN. NO PIT CREW, NO SPONSORS, AND JUST KINDA DOG PADDLING TO GET BY.

(TOMMY)>> MUST HAVE BEEN SOME PRETTY FAST DOG PADDLING. HE WON OVER 100 RACES. EVERY WEEKEND HE'D HIT THE DRAG STRIP, BUT DURING THE WEEK HE WAS HITTING THE BOOKS AT AUBURN.

(STEVE)>> I LEARNED ABOUT WEIGHT TRANSFER, LEVERAGE,

AND ALL OF THAT, AND EVERY WEEK I WOULD POLISH MY SKILLS IN SCHOOL TO GO MAKE MY CAR RUN FASTER.

(TOMMY)>> HE WOUND UP SHAVING OFF A SECOND ON HIS ET, RUNNING 10.97 AT 131 MILES PER HOUR.

(RICK)>> IN '65, STEVE WENT TO WORK FOR FORD. HE GOT A DRAG COMET AS HIS COMPANY CAR. HE TRADED THE THUNDERBOLT FOR A MUSTANG AND $1,000 BUCKS, BUT THE CHECK BOUNCED.

(STEVE)>> AND WHEN I TRIED TO GO TO COURT TO GET MY MONEY I ALMOST GOT ELIMINATED, AND I HAD TO RUN FOR MY LIFE.

(TOMMY)>> 40 YEARS LATER THE CAR IS STEVE'S ONCE AGAIN, AND HE ALSO EARNED A SPOT IN THE SOUTHEASTERN DRAG

RACER'S HALL OF FAME.

HIS RACING DAYS MAY BE BEHIND HIM BUT HE STILL LOVES TAKING IT TO THE TRACK. ( )>> ANY LAST WORDS?

(STEVE)>> FAMOUS LAST WORDS, THIS IS A BLAST!

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD WE GIVE A PRIMER 101 COURSE TO SHOW YOU WHAT ALL THE DIFFERENT PRIMERS ARE FOR.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE I'VE BEEN ABLE TO THROW SOME PAINT TECH AT YOU. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SLOW DOWN AND EDUCATE YOU ON WHY AND HOW TO USE PRIMER. BUT DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT. IT'S NOT REALLY GONNA BE A POP QUIZ BUT IT IS SOME HELPFUL INFORMATION. WE GET THE OCCASIONAL QUESTION ABOUT PRIMER, AND A LOT OF THE STUFF YOU HEAR OUT THERE IS MISCONCEPTIONS.

MOST PEOPLE THINK THAT PRIMER IS SOME MATERIAL THAT

THEY SPRAY ON THE SURFACE TO SEAL IT OFF FROM PAINT. AND THAT IS KINDA TRUE BUT THERE'S A LOT MORE TO THE STORY THAN THAT. YOU GUYS HAVE SEEN A HUGE POLYESTER FILLER PRIMER HERE ON THE SHOW BEFORE, LIKE RUST DEFENDER. FOR RESTORATIONS THIS STUFF WORKS GREAT BECAUSE IT'S A HEAVY BODIED FILLER PRIMER. AND WHEN YOU'RE TRYING TO BLOCK PANELS NICE AND FLAT, IT CAN SAVE YOU TIME BY ALLOWING YOU TO SAFELY APPLY A THICKER AMOUNT OF PRIMER AT ONCE. THAT IS IT'S ACTUALLY A SPRAYABLE FORM OF BODY FILLER. TO THE VISUAL AID, POLY PRIMER IS OFTEN USED FOR

REPAIRING HAIL DENTS. SO IF YOU TRIED TO USE TRADITIONAL PRIMER TO GET THE SAME AMOUNT OF FILL YOU'RE GONNA RUN INTO SOME PROBLEMS. THAT'S BECAUSE THE TRADITIONAL PRIMER HAS A LOT MORE SOLVENT IN IT THAN THE OTHER DOES. AND WHENEVER YOU START STACKING ALL THOSE COATS, THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW THEY'RE GONNA RUN INTO SHRINKAGE, SOLVENT POP, OR EVEN DELAMINATION. BUT IT'S NOT ALL SUNSHINE AND RAINBOWS. IT'S NOT TO BE USED ON FLEXIBLE PARTS BECAUSE IT

WON'T TAKE THE ABUSE. THE NEXT PRIMER WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT IS WASH PRIMER ETCH PRIMER. NOW THIS STUFF DEFINITELY HAS ITS USES. IT'S DESIGNED TO CHEMICALLY ADHERE TO WHATEVER IT'S SPRAYED ON. ONCE YOU MIX THIS ACID BASED MATERIAL INTO THE PRIMER, ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS SPRAY IT ON AND THEN YOU'RE READY TO TOP COAT. NOW CHANCES ARE IF YOU SEE A VEHICLE RIDING DOWN THE

ROAD WITH PRIMER ON IT, IT'S URETHANE. URETHANE IS MORE OR LESS THE INDUSTRY'S STANDARD WHEN IT COMES TO MID COAT, AND HERE'S WHY. THIS STUFF IS WATER RESISTANT, WHICH MEANS IF YOU'VE GOT A PROJECT THAT'S GOTTA HANG OUT FOR A BIT,

THAT CAN GO A LONG WAYS. ALSO IT'S ACTIVATED WITH A HARDENER. THAT MAKES IT A LOT TOUGHER THAN A PRIMER THAT CAN SIMPLY DRY. WE USED THIS SUMMIT URETHANE PRIMER ON PROJECT DARK HORSE, OUR FOX BODY MUSTANG. THE REASON IS THAT URETHANE IS ALSO A MEDIUM BUILD PRIMER, AND THE MUSTANG REALLY DIDN'T HAVE ANY BIG COSMETICS DEFECTS TO SPEAK OF. AFTER THE INITIAL BODY WORK, A COAT OF PRIMER, A LITTLE BIT OF SANDING, AND THEN ANOTHER COAT, IT WAS READY FOR PAINT.

RIGHT HERE WE HAVE EPOXY PRIMER, WHICH YES, URETHANE IS OFTEN CONSIDERED A TYPE OF EPOXY. TYPICAL EPOXY PRIMERS ARE GEARED MOSTLY TOWARDS BEING A TIE COAT. BUT BE CAREFUL IF YOU'RE PLANNING ON PUTTING THIS

STUFF OVER THE TOP OF AN ACID BASED PRIMER BECAUSE ACID CAN INTERFERE WITH THE CURING PROCESS. NOW LASTLY WE'VE GOT THIS OLE TIMEY LACQUER BASED PRIMER. AND THERE'S A MILLION AND JILLION CARS OUT THERE

THAT'S HAD THIS STUFF SPRAYED ON IT. AND IS IT BAD STUFF?

NOT REALLY AS LONG AS YOU PAIR IT WITH LACQUER BASED PAINT. THIS STUFF IS ACTUALLY INCOMPATIBLE WITH MODERN URETHANE PAINTS. AND IF YOU TRY TO MIX THE TWO YOU'RE GONNA FIND YOURSELF WITH DELAMINATION ISSUES AND

THE PAINT FLYING OFF. YOU'LL FIND GUYS THAT SWEAR BY THAT OLD LACQUER PRIMER, BUT IN ALL REALITY THIS MODERN TECHNOLOGY IS FAR MORE SUPERIOR. JUST THINK ABOUT THE LAST TIME YOU WERE SITTING AT THE CAR SHOW YOU SAW THE FRESHLY RESTORED CAR SITTING BESIDE THAT OLD SURVIVOR. NOW THOSE ROSE COLORED GLASSES THAT WE HAVE ON EVERY NOW AND THEN TEND TO MAKE US FORGET WHAT THOSE CARS REALLY LOOKED LIKED. BUT HEY, THEY DID THE BEST THAT THEY COULD DO WITH WHAT THEY HAD TO WORK WITH.

(STEVE)>> IF YOU'VE GOT AN QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW ON THE SHOW TODAY.

(TOMMY)>> GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.