More '06 GMC Sierra 1500 Episodes
Trucks! Builds
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Join the PowerNation Email NewsletterParts Used In This Episode
Boss Motorsports
Wheel, Boss 330, Aluminum, Black, 20 in. x 8.5 in., 6 x 5.50 in. Bolt Circle, 5.473 in. Backspace, Each
Dupli-Color
Paint, Engine, Enamel with Ceramic Resin, Semi-Gloss, Black, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Falken Tires
Tire, Ziex S/TZ04, 295 /45R20, Radial, 2,601 lbs. Load Rating, H Speed Rated, Blackwall, Each
McGaughy's Suspension Parts
Lowering Kit, 2 in. Front, 4 in. Rear, Chevy, GMC, Silverado, Sierra 1500, 2WD, Kit
Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE
LOWERING OUR TOTALLY STOCK RIDING 2006 GMC 1,500, AND
THE SYSTEM WE'RE USING WON'T CHANGE OUR FACTORY STEERING. WE'LL ALSO BE SHOWING YOU
THE EASY WAY TO REMOVE
WORN OUT BALL JOINTS. THEN IT'S NEW SHOCKS, WHEELS, AND TIRES TO GET OUR GMC LOOKING AND RIDING RIGHT. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.
(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS.
WELL WE HAVE FINALLY GOT THE OPPORTUNITY TO PARTICIPATE IN THE LS REVOLUTION THAT'S HAPPENING IN THE AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET. YOU GO TO ANY AUTOCROSS, ANY EVENT, PICK UP ANY MAGAZINE AND WATCH ANY TV SHOW, AND YOU SEE. THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING AND ON THE ASPHALT. AND WITH THE FIVETHREE IN OUR '06 SIERRA HERE WE FINALLY HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO SHOW WHAT THIS ENGINE PLATFORM IS CAPABLE OF. THE PROBLEM WITH THIS TRUCK IS EVEN THOUGH WE'VE GIVEN A LITTLE BIT OF A LIFT WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM, A CAT BACK EXHAUST, AND A POWER PROGRAMMER, IT KINDA STILL LOOKS LIKE YOUR GRANDPA'S TRUCK.
(RYAN)>> NOW ONE SURE FIRE WAY TO MAKE ANY PICK UP TRUCK LOOK LESS SEDATE OR STOCK IS TO ALTER THE HEIGHT OF THE SUSPENSION BY EITHER RAISING IT OR LOWERING IT. AND SINCE WE'RE WORKING ON A TWO WHEEL DRIVE STREET TRUCK, WE'RE JUST GONNA LOWER IT DOWN A LITTLE BIT, OBVIOUSLY. NOW AFTER PUTTING A FEW MILES ON THIS PICK UP, WELL WE NOTICED THAT IT RIDES AND HANDLES PRETTY WELL. SO WE DON'T WANT TO STRAY TOO FAR FROM WHAT WE'VE ALREADY GOT. WE JUST WANT TO COMPLIMENT WHAT WE HAVE AND MAKE THE TRUCK SIT A LITTLE BIT LOWER. AND TO DO THAT HERE'S THE KIT WE'RE GONNA USE. NOW TO LOWER THE FRONT WE'RE USING THESE TWO INCH DROP SPINDLES. NOW THESE WERE DESIGNED AND ENGINEERED TO RETAIN ALL THE STOCK GEOMETRY. THERE'S NOT GONNA BE ANY EXCESSIVE BALL JOINT ANGLE ISSUES. YOU CAN REUSE YOUR STOCK TIE ROD. YOU WON'T HAVE ANY BUMP STEER ISSUES, AND YOU CAN RETAIN THE STOCK COIL SPRING CAUSE THE ONLY THING THAT CHANGES IS THE HEIGHT OF THE SPINDLE OR THE WHEEL BEARING. NOW TO GET THE REAR OF THE TRUCK SITTING A LITTLE BIT CLOSER TO THE GROUND WE'RE USING A THREE OR FOUR INCH DROP KIT. AND I SAY THREE OR FOUR INCHES BECAUSE THESE ADJUSTABLE FRONT SPRING HANGERS HAVE TWO DIFFERENT MOUNTING HOLES.
SAME WITH THE DROP SHACKLES. THAT WAY WE CAN DIAL IN OUR RIDE HEIGHT AND OUR PINION ANGLE FOR WHAT SUITS OUR TRUCK THE BEST. AND JUST LIKE THE FRONT KIT, WELL THE REAR ALLOWS US TO REUSE THE ORIGINAL SPRINGS, SAVING US MONEY. SPEAKING OF WHICH, ALL THIS STUFF CAME FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW THE BENEFIT TO REUSING OUR STOCK SPRINGS BESIDES SAVING A FEW BUCKS, IS THAT THIS TRUCK IS GONNA MAINTAIN ITS RIDE QUALITIES AND CARRYING CAPABILITIES. WE STILL WANT TO BE ABLE TO USE THIS TRUCK BED LIKE A TRUCK BED FOR HAULING THINGS.
AND WE WANT TO BE ABLE TO HOOK A BASS BOAT UP TO THE HITCH AND TOW TO THE LAKE. WE OUGHT TO BE ABLE TO USE THIS TRUCK LIKE A TRUCK, JUST A BETTER LOOKING ONE.
NOW SINCE KEVIN'S GOT SOME PAINT WORK TO DO ON THOSE RAW FRONT SPINDLES, WELL I'M GONNA GET STARTED INSTALLING THESE PARTS ON THE REAR.
NOW TO REMOVE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER FROM THE FRAME WE'RE USING OUR TRIED AND TESTED METHOD OF REMOVING STUBBORN FACTORY RIVETS. CUT AN "X" IN THE HEAD. THEN BREAK OUT THE NOISE MAKER AND TRY TO CHISEL THE RIVET HEADS OFF. YOU CAN GRIND THEM OFF AND DRILL THEM OUT, BUT THIS IS THE WAY WE LIKE TO DO IT, AND IT'S PRETTY EFFECTIVE. NOW REPLACING THE LEAF SPRING SHACKLE IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, AND THE BOTTOM BOLT COMES OUT FAIRLY EASILY. THE TOP BOLT A LITTLE BIT MORE OF A CHALLENGE CAUSE YOU HAVE TO RAISE THE AXLE OR THE LEAF SPRING ENOUGH TO PROVIDE THE
CLEARANCE NECESSARY TO EXTRACT THE BOLT.
NOW TECHNICALLY YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO DROP THE FUEL TANK TO GET THIS JOB DONE, BUT OUR FUEL TANK IS FULL AND IT KINDA SOUNDS LIKE A HASSLE TO US. BESIDES, NOT EVERYBODY HAS THE TOOLS NEEDED TO SAFELY DROP THE FUEL TANK.
SO WE THOUGHT WE'D SHOW YOU A WAY AROUND IT. NOW IT'S RECOMMENDED TO DROP THE TANK FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. ONE, JUST SO YOU CAN REMOVE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER BOLT. NOW IF YOU LEAVE THE SHACKLE LOOSE AT THE REAR AND YOU PRY IT DOWN ENOUGH, YOU CAN USUALLY REMOVE IT. NOW INSTALLING THE NEW HANGER IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. NOW WE WENT WITH THE BOLT HOLE THAT WOULD PROVIDE THE MOST DROP, BUT WE CAN ALWAYS MAKE ADJUSTMENTS LATER.
BUT INSTALLING THE BOLT DID REQUIRE A LITTLE BIT OF ASSISTANCE AND SOME LEVERAGE. ALRIGHT, THAT'S GOOD! PRY DOWN ON IT SOME, PERFECT, THANKS, THANK YOU SIR! NOW IF YOU'RE DOING THIS JOB AT HOME IN THE DRIVEWAY, YOU MAY WANT TO DO BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME, THAT WAY YOU'RE NOT PRYING OR TWISTING AGAINST THE LEAF SPRING ON THE OTHER SIDE. THE JOB WILL BE THAT MUCH EASIER. NOW THE SECOND REASON IT'S RECOMMENDED THAT YOU DROP THE TANK IS TO ALLOW ACCESS TO THE HARDWARE ON THE
INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL. BUT A LITTLE BIT OF TAPE AND SOME CREATIVITY WILL SOLVE THAT PROBLEM. NOW THREE OUT OF THE FOUR BOLTS WE COULD GET TO BY
WEDGING MY KINDA SKINNY HAND IN BETWEEN THE TANK AND THE
FRAME RAIL, AND GETTING THE HARDWARE ON. THIS FOURTH BOLT JUST TOOK A WRENCH TO THE HOLE IN THE FRAME.
IT'S A LITTLE BIT TEDIOUS, BUT IT'S A LOT EASIER THAN DROPPING THE FUEL TANK. YEA, WE WIN!
NOW THIS TOP SHACKLE BOLT, IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST ON IT WHERE WATER GOT IN AROUND THE BUSHING. SO BEFORE IT GETS ANY WORSE, WE WANT TO TAKE CARE OF IT CAUSE OE HARDWARE IS QUALITY HARDWARE. WE'D RATHER REUSE THIS ONE. NOW TO GET RID OF THE SURFACE RUST WE'RE JUST USING A CLEANING DISC ON A DIE GRINDER. WE'RE NOT WORRIED ABOUT MAKING THIS BOLT PERFECT OR LIKE NEW. WE JUST WANT TO QUICKLY TREAT IT. NOW TO GET TO THE RUST IN THE THREADS, A QUICK SCRUBBING WITH A WIRE BRUSH OUGHT TO BE GOOD ENOUGH. A LITTLE BIT OF PAINT AND WE'LL BE GOOD. AFTER SOME BLACK DUPLICOLOR, WE WERE DONE. AND JUST LIKE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER, WE CHOSE THE BOLT HOLE LOCATION IN THE SHACKLE THAT WILL PROVIDE THE MOST DROP. RIDE HEIGHT AND PINION ANGLE ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE LATER. WE'LL LEAVE IT LOOSE FOR NOW UNTIL WE GET THE WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE.
(KEVIN)>> SO FAR THIS LOWERING SYSTEM HAS BEEN PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, EVEN WITH RYAN FIGURING OUT A WAY WHERE WE DIDN'T HAVE TO LOWER THE FUEL TANK TO INSTALL THE FRONT LEAF SPRING HANGER. DISASSEMBLY UP FRONT HAS BEEN A CAKE WALK UNTIL NOW. THIS LOWER BALL JOINT HAS TO COME OUT.
NOW AT 97,000 MILES YOU CAN MAKE THE ARGUMENT THAT THIS IS
KINDA SACRIFICIAL BECAUSE IT SHOULD BE REPLACED ANYWAY. EITHER WAY YOU'VE GOT YOUR WORK CUT OUT FOR YOU. AND IF YOU'RE GONNA REMOVE THIS YOURSELF, YOU BETTER HAVE
A BIG, BAD BOWL OF GET UP AND GO'LIOS BECAUSE IT'S KIND OF A TOUGH JOB.
NOW YOU'RE SORT OF AT A CROSS ROADS BECAUSE YOU CAN EITHER BURN UP A LOT OF TIME, SEVERAL DRILL BITS TAKING THIS OUT YOURSELF, OR YOU CAN FARM IT OUT, PAY SOMEBODY TO DO IT FOR YOU. OR YOU CAN DO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO AND SAVE TIME AND MONEY, STICK AROUND.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. LIKE WE TOLD YOU, WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SAVE TIME AND MONEY BY DOING SOMETHING THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED REGULAR MAINTENANCE ANYWAYS, AND MAKE SPARKS AND FIRE. OUR GOOD BUDDY RODNEY FROM RIDE TECH SHOWED US HIS METHOD. IT IS ONE THAT WE'RE KEEPING IN OUR ROLODEX. MAKING THE "X" ON TOP OF THE RIVET HEAD FOLLOWED BY THE AIR HAMMER MAKES A LOT OF NOISE BUT IT REALLY GETS THE JOB DONE. IT'S VERY EFFECTIVE, JUST WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR.
(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THE RIVETS GROUND DOWN FLUSH TO THE CONTROL ARM HERE'S WHERE YOU HAVE A CHOICE TO MAKE. YOU CAN TRY TO COME IN WITH AN AIR HAMMER OR A HAMMER AND PUNCH AND TRY TO DRIVE THE RIVETS THROUGH THE CONTROL ARM, BUT IT'S USUALLY UNSUCCESSFUL AND I GUESS IT'S WORTH A SHOT. THIS METHOD USUALLY WORKS WELL ON BENT FRAME RAILS, BUT HERE WE'RE TRYING TO PUSH THE RIVET THROUGH ABOUT AN INCH WORTH OF METAL. METAL THAT'S GOT A PRETTY GOOD GRIP ON THE RIVET. NOW SO FAR ALL WE'VE DONE IS MAKE A BUNCH OF RACKET. THE RIVET HASN'T MOVED AT ALL. NOW A SECOND OPTION WOULD BE TO COME IN HERE AND TRY TO DRILL THESE RIVETS OUT. BUT LIKE KEVIN MENTIONED, YOU'RE GONNA GO THROUGH A FEW DRILL BITS AND YOU'RE GONNA SPEND SOME SERIOUS TIME DOING SO. YOU ALSO RUN THE RISK OF OBLONGING THE MOUNTING HOLES, WHICH ARE KINDA IMPORTANT SINCE THEY
LOCATED THE BALL JOINT. YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO REPLACE THIS WHOLE CONTROL ARM BECAUSE YOU SCREWED UP THE MOUNTING HOLES. NOW WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU A WAY THAT WE LIKE TO DO IT EVEN
THOUGH IT DOES SACRIFICE THE BALL JOINT. NOW SINCE OUR METHOD DOES INVOLVE A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT, WE PUT SOME PROTECTIVE TAPE OVER THE RUBBER COIL SPRING ISOLATOR, BUT THAT'S NOT ALL THAT NEEDS PROTECTING. DON'T WEAR TENNIS SHOES WHEN DOING THIS. AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE A CUTTING TORCH IN YOUR TOOL ARSENAL, NO BIG DEAL. YOU COULD ALWAYS TAKE THE ENTIRE CONTROL ARM OFF AND TAKE IT TO A SHOP THAT DOES. AND FOR A MINIMAL CHARGE THEY CAN DO WHAT WE'RE DOING. WATCH OUT, THAT'S WARM! WHAT WE'RE DOING IS HEATING UP THE BALL JOINT MOUNTING FLANGE ALLOWING IT TO EXPAND. THE CAST METAL OF THE BALL JOINT'S GONNA HEAT UP QUICKER THAN THE STEEL OF THE CONTROL ARM.
MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING PLENTY OF SAFETY GEAR CAUSE WHEN THE CAST GETS GOOD AND HOT, LIQUID METAL STARTS FLYING. AND EVEN THOUGH WE'VE GOT THIS FLANGE GLOWING RED, IT STILL TAKES A GOOD BIT OF AIR HAMMERING TO BREAK THE RIVET FREE.
AND THAT IS WHY I'M WEARING A WELDING HELMET, SO I DON'T GET SPLASHED.
NOW THE FRONT TWO RIVETS WERE EASY ENOUGH TO GET TO AS THEY
WERE CLOSE TO THE EDGE OF THE CONTROL ARM. THE INTERIOR ONES, A LITTLE BIT MORE DIFFICULT BUT WE STILL MANAGED.
ALRIGHT WELL, NOBODY SAID IT WAS GONNA BE PRETTY BUT IT'S HARD TO ARGUE WITH RESULTS.
(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. WE ARE IMPROVING THE HANDLING AND THE APPEARANCE OF OUR '06 SIERRA BY DROPPING IT DOWN IN THE WEEDS A LITTLE BIT. NOW RYAN HAS TAKEN CARE OF REMOVING THE OLD BALL JOINT. IF WE WERE JUST REPLACING IT, WELL IT WOULD LOOK A LITTLE MORE LIKE THIS AND WE'D JUST SLIDE IT BACK IN, THROW THE BOLTS IN THAT ARE PROVIDED WITH THE BALL JOINT, AND WE'D BE ROCKING AND ROLLING. HOWEVER, WE'RE DROPPING THIS THING WITH DROPPED KNUCKLES. SO WHAT HAS TO GO IN THAT SPACE IS THE SPACER THAT COMES WITH THE MCGAUGHY'S KIT. IT SITS IN LIKE THAT. YOUR BALL JOINT SITS ON TOP. NOW THE REASON IT SITS ON TOP IS TO CORRECT THE STEERING GEOMETRY, BRING IT BACK TO STOCK. BECAUSE THE SPINDLE IS UP HIGHER, THE WHEEL CENTER IS LOWER TO DROP SPINDLE, FOUR INCHES WORTH. SO THIS CORRECTS IT AND MAINTAINS THAT FACTORY STEERING GEOMETRY. IT'S NOT QUITE A BOLT IN, THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF TRIMMING TO DO. USING THE SPACER AS A GUIDE IS A REALLY SAFE WAY TO MARK OFF WHAT I NEED TO TRIM, BUT STILL LEAVE ENOUGH METAL IN PLACE TO MAKE THE BALL JOINT MOUNT SAFE. [ grinder spinning ]
(KEVIN)>> ONCE YOUR LOWER CONTROL ARM'S WHITTLED DOWN, IT'S JUST A MATTER OF REASSEMBLY. WITH THE SPACER INSERTED INTO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND USING THE SUPPLIED GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE THAT CAME WITH THE MCGAUGHY'S KIT. IT ALL JUST KINDA FALLS TOGETHER NOW. [ air wrench spinning ]
(KEVIN)>> THAT'S IT! NOW BEFORE WE INSTALL THE NEW DROPPED STEERING KNUCKLES, WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY DON'T GET THAT CRUDDY LOOKING SURFACE RUST THAT ALL THE FACTORY OE STUFF HAS. SO WE'RE USING POR 15 PAINT. IT'LL GIVE OUR SUSPENSION PARTS A CUSTOM LOOK THAT WE CAN BE PROUD OF.
NOW WHILE WE WAIT FOR THAT TO DRY, I WANT TO SHOW YOU A WAY TO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR EXPENSIVE COATING, WHETHER
IT'S POR OR WHETHER IT'S A HARDENER, IS GONNA BE READY FOR YOU TO USE THE NEXT TIME YOU REACH FOR IT, EVEN IF IT'S MONTHS DOWN THE ROAD. NOW THIS IS A MOISTURE CURED URETHANE, AND THIS SPACING HERE, WELL IT'S FILLED UP WITH AIR. GUESS WHAT AIR CONTAINS, MOISTURE. SO WHEN YOU SEAL THIS OFF IT'S TRAPPING AIR IN THERE AND EVENTUALLY IT'S GONNA CAUSE THE MATERIAL IN THE CAN TO
SKIM COAT AND EVENTUALLY JUST GET CATALYZED AND HARDENED IN THE CAN MAKING IT USELESS. THIS IS BUTANE.
BUTANE IS AN INERT GAS, LIKE ARGON, AND YOU CAN DO THIS TECHNIQUE WITH ARGON TOO, BUT WHAT THE INERT GAS DOES IS DISPLACE THE OXYGEN.
IT'S LITERALLY HEAVIER THAN THE OXYGEN. SO WHEN YOU INTRODUCE IT TO THE CAN, IT LITERALLY FORMS A
LAYER THAT PRODUCTS THE PAINT. ONCE YOU SEAL IT UP, IT FORMS A BARRIER THAT KEEPS IT FROM CURING IN THE CAN. THERE'S ONE MORE THING WITH POR THAT YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO IF YOU WANT TO REUSE IT.
THE LID AND THE CAN HAVE A LAYER OF POR THAT IS NOT GONNA BE PROTECTED WITH ARGON. SO HERE'S SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN DO. THIS IS JUST A CHUNK OF A PLASTIC BAG. WHAT IT DOES, IT LITERALLY FORMS A BARRIER BETWEEN THE LID AND THE PAINT, AND IT WON'T CURE THE CAN CLOSED. YOU WILL ACTUALLY BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE TOP. THAT'S HOW GOOD THIS PAINT IS, BUT YOU'VE JUST GOT TO KINDA WORK AROUND SOME OF ITS IDIOSYNCRASIES. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ACTUALLY COMES COATED FROM THE FACTORY BUT IT'S LOOKING A LITTLE TIRES. SO WE'RE GONNA FRESHEN IT UP WITH SOME DUPLICOLOR SEMI GLOSS BLACK. THIS ALSO GIVES US THE OPPORTUNITY TO RECOAT THE PAINT THAT'S BEEN BURNT OFF DURING THE REMOVAL PROCESS OF THE BALL JOINT. AND AS A MATTER OF FACT THE BALL JOINT ITSELF, SO IT DOESN'T GET THAT CRUSTY LOOKING SURFACE RUST
CAUSE IT COMES UNCOATED.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE FINISHING UP LOWERING OUR 2006 GMC SIERRA. NOW LIKE WE TOLD YOU EARLIER, WE'RE RETAINING OUR STOCK SPRINGS BUT WE'RE ALSO GONNA BE ADDING HEAVIER TIRES AND WHEELS. SO TO HELP CONTROL THAT WEIGHT AND TO IMPROVE THE RIDE AND HANDLING, WE'RE THROWING ON A SET OF BILSTEINS. NOW WE'RE USING STOCK LENGTH SHOCKS AT ALL FOUR CORNERS. AND EVEN THOUGH WE'LL BE SITTING THREE TO FOUR INCHES LOWER IN THE REAR END OF THIS TRUCK, THERE'S ENOUGH TRAVEL IN THE FACTORY LENGTH SHOCK TO ACCOMMODATE THIS WITHOUT USING A DROP BRACKET.
AND UP FRONT WE'RE USING STOCK LENGTH SHOCKS AS WELL, CAUSE LIKE WE TOLD YOU EARLIER, NOTHING CHANGES IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION, OR NOT MUCH ANYWAYS, BESIDES THE SPINDLE
HEIGHT OR LOCATION AND THAT PROVIDES THE DROP.
(KEVIN)>> NOW FOR WHEELS AND TIRES WE WANTED SOMETHING CURRENT AND COOL LOOKING FOR THIS TRUCK. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING DOT COM, STARTED TO LOOK THROUGH THEIR SELECTION ON THE WEBSITE. WHAT WE CAME UP WITH ARE THESE BOSS MOTORSPORTS 20'S.
NOW THEY GET A NICE MIX OF BLACK AND CHROME, KINDA LIKE THE REST OF THE TRUCK.
SO WE THINK THEY LOOK PRETTY AGGRESSIVE, PRETTY COOL AT THE SAME TIME. AS FAR AS RUBBER, CHECK THIS OUT. NOW WE WANTED AN AGGRESSIVE LOOKING TREAD PATTERN WITH DECENT SIPING FOR GOOD ALL WEATHER TRACTION, AND THESE FALCON 295/45 20'S OUGHT TO DO JUST RIGHT FOR US. NOW WITH A 420 TREAD WEAR RATING, WE'RE GONNA GET A GOOD LONG LIFE OUT OF THESE THINGS. AND LETS FACE IT, IT'S A STREET TRUCK, IT AIN'T A RACE TRUCK. SO WE DON'T HAVE RUBBER BANDS, WE'VE GOT PLENTY OF SIDE WALL. SO THIS IS GONNA GIVE US A LONG LIFE AND NOT SACRIFICE RIDE QUALITY. THEY LOOK COOL TOO!
(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WELL THERE YOU GO, WITH JUST A FEW PARTS, A LITTLE BIT OF INVESTMENT IN SOME 20 INCH TIRES AND WHEELS, AND SOME TIME YOU CAN TRANSFORM THE LOOK OF YOUR PICK UP TRUCK. THIS USED TO BE A KIND OF PLAIN LOOKING REGULAR CAB SIERRA. NOW IT'S A GREAT LOOKING STREET TRUCK, AND ONE YOU CAN STILL USE AS A TRUCK.
(KEVIN)>> NOW HERE AT THE POWERBLOCK WE USE AN AWFUL LOT OF MOTHER'S SHOWTIME INSTANT DETAILER. CHECK OUT SOME OF THESE OTHER PRODUCTS FROM THE CALIFORNIA GOLD LINE. SYNTHETIC WAX PROVIDES A SUPERIOR LAYER OF PROTECTION AGAINST TODAY'S HARSH ENVIRONMENTS, AND IT'S EFFORTLESS TO REMOVE. NOW SOME PEOPLE HAVE MADE THE MISTAKE OF USING AN ALUMINUM POLISH ON CHROME AND ACTUALLY SCRATCHING THE CHROME SURFACE.
CHROME POLISH IS MILDER, AND THIS ONE IS A GREAT CHROME POLISH, REALLY BRINGING OUT THAT DEEP LUSTER IN CHROME PLATED SURFACES.
THE WATER SPOT REMOVER IS SPECIFICALLY FORMULATED FOR EXTERIOR GLASS SURFACES, AND DOES A GREAT JOB REMOVING HARD WATER STAINS, ROAD GRIME, AND ESPECIALLY THOSE BUGS THAT WE ALL HAVE TO SCRUB OFF THE WINDSHIELD IN SPRING AND SUMMER MONTHS. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE CALIFORNIA GOLD LINE OF PRODUCTS OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR MOTHERS, GO TO MOTHER DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCKS, I'VE GOT SOME DETAILING TO DO.
Show Full Transcript
WORN OUT BALL JOINTS. THEN IT'S NEW SHOCKS, WHEELS, AND TIRES TO GET OUR GMC LOOKING AND RIDING RIGHT. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.
(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS.
WELL WE HAVE FINALLY GOT THE OPPORTUNITY TO PARTICIPATE IN THE LS REVOLUTION THAT'S HAPPENING IN THE AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET. YOU GO TO ANY AUTOCROSS, ANY EVENT, PICK UP ANY MAGAZINE AND WATCH ANY TV SHOW, AND YOU SEE. THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING AND ON THE ASPHALT. AND WITH THE FIVETHREE IN OUR '06 SIERRA HERE WE FINALLY HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO SHOW WHAT THIS ENGINE PLATFORM IS CAPABLE OF. THE PROBLEM WITH THIS TRUCK IS EVEN THOUGH WE'VE GIVEN A LITTLE BIT OF A LIFT WITH A COLD AIR SYSTEM, A CAT BACK EXHAUST, AND A POWER PROGRAMMER, IT KINDA STILL LOOKS LIKE YOUR GRANDPA'S TRUCK.
(RYAN)>> NOW ONE SURE FIRE WAY TO MAKE ANY PICK UP TRUCK LOOK LESS SEDATE OR STOCK IS TO ALTER THE HEIGHT OF THE SUSPENSION BY EITHER RAISING IT OR LOWERING IT. AND SINCE WE'RE WORKING ON A TWO WHEEL DRIVE STREET TRUCK, WE'RE JUST GONNA LOWER IT DOWN A LITTLE BIT, OBVIOUSLY. NOW AFTER PUTTING A FEW MILES ON THIS PICK UP, WELL WE NOTICED THAT IT RIDES AND HANDLES PRETTY WELL. SO WE DON'T WANT TO STRAY TOO FAR FROM WHAT WE'VE ALREADY GOT. WE JUST WANT TO COMPLIMENT WHAT WE HAVE AND MAKE THE TRUCK SIT A LITTLE BIT LOWER. AND TO DO THAT HERE'S THE KIT WE'RE GONNA USE. NOW TO LOWER THE FRONT WE'RE USING THESE TWO INCH DROP SPINDLES. NOW THESE WERE DESIGNED AND ENGINEERED TO RETAIN ALL THE STOCK GEOMETRY. THERE'S NOT GONNA BE ANY EXCESSIVE BALL JOINT ANGLE ISSUES. YOU CAN REUSE YOUR STOCK TIE ROD. YOU WON'T HAVE ANY BUMP STEER ISSUES, AND YOU CAN RETAIN THE STOCK COIL SPRING CAUSE THE ONLY THING THAT CHANGES IS THE HEIGHT OF THE SPINDLE OR THE WHEEL BEARING. NOW TO GET THE REAR OF THE TRUCK SITTING A LITTLE BIT CLOSER TO THE GROUND WE'RE USING A THREE OR FOUR INCH DROP KIT. AND I SAY THREE OR FOUR INCHES BECAUSE THESE ADJUSTABLE FRONT SPRING HANGERS HAVE TWO DIFFERENT MOUNTING HOLES.
SAME WITH THE DROP SHACKLES. THAT WAY WE CAN DIAL IN OUR RIDE HEIGHT AND OUR PINION ANGLE FOR WHAT SUITS OUR TRUCK THE BEST. AND JUST LIKE THE FRONT KIT, WELL THE REAR ALLOWS US TO REUSE THE ORIGINAL SPRINGS, SAVING US MONEY. SPEAKING OF WHICH, ALL THIS STUFF CAME FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW THE BENEFIT TO REUSING OUR STOCK SPRINGS BESIDES SAVING A FEW BUCKS, IS THAT THIS TRUCK IS GONNA MAINTAIN ITS RIDE QUALITIES AND CARRYING CAPABILITIES. WE STILL WANT TO BE ABLE TO USE THIS TRUCK BED LIKE A TRUCK BED FOR HAULING THINGS.
AND WE WANT TO BE ABLE TO HOOK A BASS BOAT UP TO THE HITCH AND TOW TO THE LAKE. WE OUGHT TO BE ABLE TO USE THIS TRUCK LIKE A TRUCK, JUST A BETTER LOOKING ONE.
NOW SINCE KEVIN'S GOT SOME PAINT WORK TO DO ON THOSE RAW FRONT SPINDLES, WELL I'M GONNA GET STARTED INSTALLING THESE PARTS ON THE REAR.
NOW TO REMOVE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER FROM THE FRAME WE'RE USING OUR TRIED AND TESTED METHOD OF REMOVING STUBBORN FACTORY RIVETS. CUT AN "X" IN THE HEAD. THEN BREAK OUT THE NOISE MAKER AND TRY TO CHISEL THE RIVET HEADS OFF. YOU CAN GRIND THEM OFF AND DRILL THEM OUT, BUT THIS IS THE WAY WE LIKE TO DO IT, AND IT'S PRETTY EFFECTIVE. NOW REPLACING THE LEAF SPRING SHACKLE IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, AND THE BOTTOM BOLT COMES OUT FAIRLY EASILY. THE TOP BOLT A LITTLE BIT MORE OF A CHALLENGE CAUSE YOU HAVE TO RAISE THE AXLE OR THE LEAF SPRING ENOUGH TO PROVIDE THE
CLEARANCE NECESSARY TO EXTRACT THE BOLT.
NOW TECHNICALLY YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO DROP THE FUEL TANK TO GET THIS JOB DONE, BUT OUR FUEL TANK IS FULL AND IT KINDA SOUNDS LIKE A HASSLE TO US. BESIDES, NOT EVERYBODY HAS THE TOOLS NEEDED TO SAFELY DROP THE FUEL TANK.
SO WE THOUGHT WE'D SHOW YOU A WAY AROUND IT. NOW IT'S RECOMMENDED TO DROP THE TANK FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. ONE, JUST SO YOU CAN REMOVE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER BOLT. NOW IF YOU LEAVE THE SHACKLE LOOSE AT THE REAR AND YOU PRY IT DOWN ENOUGH, YOU CAN USUALLY REMOVE IT. NOW INSTALLING THE NEW HANGER IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. NOW WE WENT WITH THE BOLT HOLE THAT WOULD PROVIDE THE MOST DROP, BUT WE CAN ALWAYS MAKE ADJUSTMENTS LATER.
BUT INSTALLING THE BOLT DID REQUIRE A LITTLE BIT OF ASSISTANCE AND SOME LEVERAGE. ALRIGHT, THAT'S GOOD! PRY DOWN ON IT SOME, PERFECT, THANKS, THANK YOU SIR! NOW IF YOU'RE DOING THIS JOB AT HOME IN THE DRIVEWAY, YOU MAY WANT TO DO BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME, THAT WAY YOU'RE NOT PRYING OR TWISTING AGAINST THE LEAF SPRING ON THE OTHER SIDE. THE JOB WILL BE THAT MUCH EASIER. NOW THE SECOND REASON IT'S RECOMMENDED THAT YOU DROP THE TANK IS TO ALLOW ACCESS TO THE HARDWARE ON THE
INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL. BUT A LITTLE BIT OF TAPE AND SOME CREATIVITY WILL SOLVE THAT PROBLEM. NOW THREE OUT OF THE FOUR BOLTS WE COULD GET TO BY
WEDGING MY KINDA SKINNY HAND IN BETWEEN THE TANK AND THE
FRAME RAIL, AND GETTING THE HARDWARE ON. THIS FOURTH BOLT JUST TOOK A WRENCH TO THE HOLE IN THE FRAME.
IT'S A LITTLE BIT TEDIOUS, BUT IT'S A LOT EASIER THAN DROPPING THE FUEL TANK. YEA, WE WIN!
NOW THIS TOP SHACKLE BOLT, IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST ON IT WHERE WATER GOT IN AROUND THE BUSHING. SO BEFORE IT GETS ANY WORSE, WE WANT TO TAKE CARE OF IT CAUSE OE HARDWARE IS QUALITY HARDWARE. WE'D RATHER REUSE THIS ONE. NOW TO GET RID OF THE SURFACE RUST WE'RE JUST USING A CLEANING DISC ON A DIE GRINDER. WE'RE NOT WORRIED ABOUT MAKING THIS BOLT PERFECT OR LIKE NEW. WE JUST WANT TO QUICKLY TREAT IT. NOW TO GET TO THE RUST IN THE THREADS, A QUICK SCRUBBING WITH A WIRE BRUSH OUGHT TO BE GOOD ENOUGH. A LITTLE BIT OF PAINT AND WE'LL BE GOOD. AFTER SOME BLACK DUPLICOLOR, WE WERE DONE. AND JUST LIKE THE FRONT SPRING HANGER, WE CHOSE THE BOLT HOLE LOCATION IN THE SHACKLE THAT WILL PROVIDE THE MOST DROP. RIDE HEIGHT AND PINION ANGLE ADJUSTMENTS CAN BE MADE LATER. WE'LL LEAVE IT LOOSE FOR NOW UNTIL WE GET THE WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE.
(KEVIN)>> SO FAR THIS LOWERING SYSTEM HAS BEEN PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, EVEN WITH RYAN FIGURING OUT A WAY WHERE WE DIDN'T HAVE TO LOWER THE FUEL TANK TO INSTALL THE FRONT LEAF SPRING HANGER. DISASSEMBLY UP FRONT HAS BEEN A CAKE WALK UNTIL NOW. THIS LOWER BALL JOINT HAS TO COME OUT.
NOW AT 97,000 MILES YOU CAN MAKE THE ARGUMENT THAT THIS IS
KINDA SACRIFICIAL BECAUSE IT SHOULD BE REPLACED ANYWAY. EITHER WAY YOU'VE GOT YOUR WORK CUT OUT FOR YOU. AND IF YOU'RE GONNA REMOVE THIS YOURSELF, YOU BETTER HAVE
A BIG, BAD BOWL OF GET UP AND GO'LIOS BECAUSE IT'S KIND OF A TOUGH JOB.
NOW YOU'RE SORT OF AT A CROSS ROADS BECAUSE YOU CAN EITHER BURN UP A LOT OF TIME, SEVERAL DRILL BITS TAKING THIS OUT YOURSELF, OR YOU CAN FARM IT OUT, PAY SOMEBODY TO DO IT FOR YOU. OR YOU CAN DO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO AND SAVE TIME AND MONEY, STICK AROUND.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. LIKE WE TOLD YOU, WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SAVE TIME AND MONEY BY DOING SOMETHING THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED REGULAR MAINTENANCE ANYWAYS, AND MAKE SPARKS AND FIRE. OUR GOOD BUDDY RODNEY FROM RIDE TECH SHOWED US HIS METHOD. IT IS ONE THAT WE'RE KEEPING IN OUR ROLODEX. MAKING THE "X" ON TOP OF THE RIVET HEAD FOLLOWED BY THE AIR HAMMER MAKES A LOT OF NOISE BUT IT REALLY GETS THE JOB DONE. IT'S VERY EFFECTIVE, JUST WEAR YOUR SAFETY GEAR.
(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THE RIVETS GROUND DOWN FLUSH TO THE CONTROL ARM HERE'S WHERE YOU HAVE A CHOICE TO MAKE. YOU CAN TRY TO COME IN WITH AN AIR HAMMER OR A HAMMER AND PUNCH AND TRY TO DRIVE THE RIVETS THROUGH THE CONTROL ARM, BUT IT'S USUALLY UNSUCCESSFUL AND I GUESS IT'S WORTH A SHOT. THIS METHOD USUALLY WORKS WELL ON BENT FRAME RAILS, BUT HERE WE'RE TRYING TO PUSH THE RIVET THROUGH ABOUT AN INCH WORTH OF METAL. METAL THAT'S GOT A PRETTY GOOD GRIP ON THE RIVET. NOW SO FAR ALL WE'VE DONE IS MAKE A BUNCH OF RACKET. THE RIVET HASN'T MOVED AT ALL. NOW A SECOND OPTION WOULD BE TO COME IN HERE AND TRY TO DRILL THESE RIVETS OUT. BUT LIKE KEVIN MENTIONED, YOU'RE GONNA GO THROUGH A FEW DRILL BITS AND YOU'RE GONNA SPEND SOME SERIOUS TIME DOING SO. YOU ALSO RUN THE RISK OF OBLONGING THE MOUNTING HOLES, WHICH ARE KINDA IMPORTANT SINCE THEY
LOCATED THE BALL JOINT. YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO REPLACE THIS WHOLE CONTROL ARM BECAUSE YOU SCREWED UP THE MOUNTING HOLES. NOW WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU A WAY THAT WE LIKE TO DO IT EVEN
THOUGH IT DOES SACRIFICE THE BALL JOINT. NOW SINCE OUR METHOD DOES INVOLVE A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT, WE PUT SOME PROTECTIVE TAPE OVER THE RUBBER COIL SPRING ISOLATOR, BUT THAT'S NOT ALL THAT NEEDS PROTECTING. DON'T WEAR TENNIS SHOES WHEN DOING THIS. AND IF YOU DON'T HAVE A CUTTING TORCH IN YOUR TOOL ARSENAL, NO BIG DEAL. YOU COULD ALWAYS TAKE THE ENTIRE CONTROL ARM OFF AND TAKE IT TO A SHOP THAT DOES. AND FOR A MINIMAL CHARGE THEY CAN DO WHAT WE'RE DOING. WATCH OUT, THAT'S WARM! WHAT WE'RE DOING IS HEATING UP THE BALL JOINT MOUNTING FLANGE ALLOWING IT TO EXPAND. THE CAST METAL OF THE BALL JOINT'S GONNA HEAT UP QUICKER THAN THE STEEL OF THE CONTROL ARM.
MAKE SURE YOU'RE WEARING PLENTY OF SAFETY GEAR CAUSE WHEN THE CAST GETS GOOD AND HOT, LIQUID METAL STARTS FLYING. AND EVEN THOUGH WE'VE GOT THIS FLANGE GLOWING RED, IT STILL TAKES A GOOD BIT OF AIR HAMMERING TO BREAK THE RIVET FREE.
AND THAT IS WHY I'M WEARING A WELDING HELMET, SO I DON'T GET SPLASHED.
NOW THE FRONT TWO RIVETS WERE EASY ENOUGH TO GET TO AS THEY
WERE CLOSE TO THE EDGE OF THE CONTROL ARM. THE INTERIOR ONES, A LITTLE BIT MORE DIFFICULT BUT WE STILL MANAGED.
ALRIGHT WELL, NOBODY SAID IT WAS GONNA BE PRETTY BUT IT'S HARD TO ARGUE WITH RESULTS.
(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. WE ARE IMPROVING THE HANDLING AND THE APPEARANCE OF OUR '06 SIERRA BY DROPPING IT DOWN IN THE WEEDS A LITTLE BIT. NOW RYAN HAS TAKEN CARE OF REMOVING THE OLD BALL JOINT. IF WE WERE JUST REPLACING IT, WELL IT WOULD LOOK A LITTLE MORE LIKE THIS AND WE'D JUST SLIDE IT BACK IN, THROW THE BOLTS IN THAT ARE PROVIDED WITH THE BALL JOINT, AND WE'D BE ROCKING AND ROLLING. HOWEVER, WE'RE DROPPING THIS THING WITH DROPPED KNUCKLES. SO WHAT HAS TO GO IN THAT SPACE IS THE SPACER THAT COMES WITH THE MCGAUGHY'S KIT. IT SITS IN LIKE THAT. YOUR BALL JOINT SITS ON TOP. NOW THE REASON IT SITS ON TOP IS TO CORRECT THE STEERING GEOMETRY, BRING IT BACK TO STOCK. BECAUSE THE SPINDLE IS UP HIGHER, THE WHEEL CENTER IS LOWER TO DROP SPINDLE, FOUR INCHES WORTH. SO THIS CORRECTS IT AND MAINTAINS THAT FACTORY STEERING GEOMETRY. IT'S NOT QUITE A BOLT IN, THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF TRIMMING TO DO. USING THE SPACER AS A GUIDE IS A REALLY SAFE WAY TO MARK OFF WHAT I NEED TO TRIM, BUT STILL LEAVE ENOUGH METAL IN PLACE TO MAKE THE BALL JOINT MOUNT SAFE. [ grinder spinning ]
(KEVIN)>> ONCE YOUR LOWER CONTROL ARM'S WHITTLED DOWN, IT'S JUST A MATTER OF REASSEMBLY. WITH THE SPACER INSERTED INTO THE LOWER CONTROL ARM AND USING THE SUPPLIED GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE THAT CAME WITH THE MCGAUGHY'S KIT. IT ALL JUST KINDA FALLS TOGETHER NOW. [ air wrench spinning ]
(KEVIN)>> THAT'S IT! NOW BEFORE WE INSTALL THE NEW DROPPED STEERING KNUCKLES, WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY DON'T GET THAT CRUDDY LOOKING SURFACE RUST THAT ALL THE FACTORY OE STUFF HAS. SO WE'RE USING POR 15 PAINT. IT'LL GIVE OUR SUSPENSION PARTS A CUSTOM LOOK THAT WE CAN BE PROUD OF.
NOW WHILE WE WAIT FOR THAT TO DRY, I WANT TO SHOW YOU A WAY TO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR EXPENSIVE COATING, WHETHER
IT'S POR OR WHETHER IT'S A HARDENER, IS GONNA BE READY FOR YOU TO USE THE NEXT TIME YOU REACH FOR IT, EVEN IF IT'S MONTHS DOWN THE ROAD. NOW THIS IS A MOISTURE CURED URETHANE, AND THIS SPACING HERE, WELL IT'S FILLED UP WITH AIR. GUESS WHAT AIR CONTAINS, MOISTURE. SO WHEN YOU SEAL THIS OFF IT'S TRAPPING AIR IN THERE AND EVENTUALLY IT'S GONNA CAUSE THE MATERIAL IN THE CAN TO
SKIM COAT AND EVENTUALLY JUST GET CATALYZED AND HARDENED IN THE CAN MAKING IT USELESS. THIS IS BUTANE.
BUTANE IS AN INERT GAS, LIKE ARGON, AND YOU CAN DO THIS TECHNIQUE WITH ARGON TOO, BUT WHAT THE INERT GAS DOES IS DISPLACE THE OXYGEN.
IT'S LITERALLY HEAVIER THAN THE OXYGEN. SO WHEN YOU INTRODUCE IT TO THE CAN, IT LITERALLY FORMS A
LAYER THAT PRODUCTS THE PAINT. ONCE YOU SEAL IT UP, IT FORMS A BARRIER THAT KEEPS IT FROM CURING IN THE CAN. THERE'S ONE MORE THING WITH POR THAT YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO IF YOU WANT TO REUSE IT.
THE LID AND THE CAN HAVE A LAYER OF POR THAT IS NOT GONNA BE PROTECTED WITH ARGON. SO HERE'S SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN DO. THIS IS JUST A CHUNK OF A PLASTIC BAG. WHAT IT DOES, IT LITERALLY FORMS A BARRIER BETWEEN THE LID AND THE PAINT, AND IT WON'T CURE THE CAN CLOSED. YOU WILL ACTUALLY BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE TOP. THAT'S HOW GOOD THIS PAINT IS, BUT YOU'VE JUST GOT TO KINDA WORK AROUND SOME OF ITS IDIOSYNCRASIES. THE LOWER CONTROL ARM ACTUALLY COMES COATED FROM THE FACTORY BUT IT'S LOOKING A LITTLE TIRES. SO WE'RE GONNA FRESHEN IT UP WITH SOME DUPLICOLOR SEMI GLOSS BLACK. THIS ALSO GIVES US THE OPPORTUNITY TO RECOAT THE PAINT THAT'S BEEN BURNT OFF DURING THE REMOVAL PROCESS OF THE BALL JOINT. AND AS A MATTER OF FACT THE BALL JOINT ITSELF, SO IT DOESN'T GET THAT CRUSTY LOOKING SURFACE RUST
CAUSE IT COMES UNCOATED.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE FINISHING UP LOWERING OUR 2006 GMC SIERRA. NOW LIKE WE TOLD YOU EARLIER, WE'RE RETAINING OUR STOCK SPRINGS BUT WE'RE ALSO GONNA BE ADDING HEAVIER TIRES AND WHEELS. SO TO HELP CONTROL THAT WEIGHT AND TO IMPROVE THE RIDE AND HANDLING, WE'RE THROWING ON A SET OF BILSTEINS. NOW WE'RE USING STOCK LENGTH SHOCKS AT ALL FOUR CORNERS. AND EVEN THOUGH WE'LL BE SITTING THREE TO FOUR INCHES LOWER IN THE REAR END OF THIS TRUCK, THERE'S ENOUGH TRAVEL IN THE FACTORY LENGTH SHOCK TO ACCOMMODATE THIS WITHOUT USING A DROP BRACKET.
AND UP FRONT WE'RE USING STOCK LENGTH SHOCKS AS WELL, CAUSE LIKE WE TOLD YOU EARLIER, NOTHING CHANGES IN THE FRONT SUSPENSION, OR NOT MUCH ANYWAYS, BESIDES THE SPINDLE
HEIGHT OR LOCATION AND THAT PROVIDES THE DROP.
(KEVIN)>> NOW FOR WHEELS AND TIRES WE WANTED SOMETHING CURRENT AND COOL LOOKING FOR THIS TRUCK. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING DOT COM, STARTED TO LOOK THROUGH THEIR SELECTION ON THE WEBSITE. WHAT WE CAME UP WITH ARE THESE BOSS MOTORSPORTS 20'S.
NOW THEY GET A NICE MIX OF BLACK AND CHROME, KINDA LIKE THE REST OF THE TRUCK.
SO WE THINK THEY LOOK PRETTY AGGRESSIVE, PRETTY COOL AT THE SAME TIME. AS FAR AS RUBBER, CHECK THIS OUT. NOW WE WANTED AN AGGRESSIVE LOOKING TREAD PATTERN WITH DECENT SIPING FOR GOOD ALL WEATHER TRACTION, AND THESE FALCON 295/45 20'S OUGHT TO DO JUST RIGHT FOR US. NOW WITH A 420 TREAD WEAR RATING, WE'RE GONNA GET A GOOD LONG LIFE OUT OF THESE THINGS. AND LETS FACE IT, IT'S A STREET TRUCK, IT AIN'T A RACE TRUCK. SO WE DON'T HAVE RUBBER BANDS, WE'VE GOT PLENTY OF SIDE WALL. SO THIS IS GONNA GIVE US A LONG LIFE AND NOT SACRIFICE RIDE QUALITY. THEY LOOK COOL TOO!
(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WELL THERE YOU GO, WITH JUST A FEW PARTS, A LITTLE BIT OF INVESTMENT IN SOME 20 INCH TIRES AND WHEELS, AND SOME TIME YOU CAN TRANSFORM THE LOOK OF YOUR PICK UP TRUCK. THIS USED TO BE A KIND OF PLAIN LOOKING REGULAR CAB SIERRA. NOW IT'S A GREAT LOOKING STREET TRUCK, AND ONE YOU CAN STILL USE AS A TRUCK.
(KEVIN)>> NOW HERE AT THE POWERBLOCK WE USE AN AWFUL LOT OF MOTHER'S SHOWTIME INSTANT DETAILER. CHECK OUT SOME OF THESE OTHER PRODUCTS FROM THE CALIFORNIA GOLD LINE. SYNTHETIC WAX PROVIDES A SUPERIOR LAYER OF PROTECTION AGAINST TODAY'S HARSH ENVIRONMENTS, AND IT'S EFFORTLESS TO REMOVE. NOW SOME PEOPLE HAVE MADE THE MISTAKE OF USING AN ALUMINUM POLISH ON CHROME AND ACTUALLY SCRATCHING THE CHROME SURFACE.
CHROME POLISH IS MILDER, AND THIS ONE IS A GREAT CHROME POLISH, REALLY BRINGING OUT THAT DEEP LUSTER IN CHROME PLATED SURFACES.
THE WATER SPOT REMOVER IS SPECIFICALLY FORMULATED FOR EXTERIOR GLASS SURFACES, AND DOES A GREAT JOB REMOVING HARD WATER STAINS, ROAD GRIME, AND ESPECIALLY THOSE BUGS THAT WE ALL HAVE TO SCRUB OFF THE WINDSHIELD IN SPRING AND SUMMER MONTHS. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE CALIFORNIA GOLD LINE OF PRODUCTS OR ANYTHING ELSE FOR MOTHERS, GO TO MOTHER DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCKS, I'VE GOT SOME DETAILING TO DO.