More '01 Mazda B2500/Ford Ranger "Rolling Thunder" Episodes
More Rolling Thunder Episodes
Trucks! Builds
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Join the PowerNation Email NewsletterParts Used In This Episode
Dupli-Color
Paint, Engine, Enamel with Ceramic Resin, Semi-Gloss, Black, 12 oz., Aerosol, Each
Edelbrock
Supercharger System, E-Force, Serpentine, Black Powdercoated, Intercooler, Chevrolet/GMC, 4.8L/5.3L, Kit
APR Performance
Carbon Fiber NACA Duct Type 1, Universal, each
Bondo
Bondo, Fiberglass Resin, Liquid, 1 gal.
Clausen
Clausen ZGF-2 Z-GLAS Fiberglass Reinforced Filler w/ Red Cream Hardener
Matco Tools
4-in-1 Tube Bender
Video Transcript
(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY KEVIN'S
TAKING HIS PRIZED CHRISTMAS COZY BLANKIE AND TURNING
IT INTO A HARDCORE CUSTOM RACE TRUCK FRONT BUMPER. THEN WE'RE GONNA INSTALL IT
ON PROJECT ROLLING THUNDER, OUR 600 PLUS HORSEPOWER
STREET LEGAL RACE TRACK READY FORD RANGER. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. WELL I KNOW THAT YOU OR SOMEBODY IN YOUR FAMILY HAS GOTTEN ONE OF THESE FOR A GIFT, AND YOU DON'T WANT TO HURT THE FEELINGS OF THE PERSON THAT GOT YOU THIS GIFT BUT YOU DON'T REALLY KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH IT. WELL DON'T WORRY, I'M GONNA HELP YOU OUT CAUSE TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE THIS OUT OF THIS, NOT KIDDING.
(RYAN)>> YEAH, WELL, WHILE KEVIN'S TURNING HIS HIGHLY COVETED CHRISTMAS GIFT INTO A CUSTOM BUMPER, I'M GONNA BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE, ANYTHING ELSE. MAYBE PAINTING THIS FRAME, I JUST HOPE HE'S WEARING MORE THAN HIS BIRTHDAY SUIT UNDER THAT THING.
(KEVIN)>> WELL TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, YES, I AM FULLY CLOTHED UNDERNEATH MY SUPER COMFY CHRISTMAS PRESENT. AND TO GET IT RIGHT OUT OF THE WAY RIGHT FROM THE START OUR CUSTOM BUMPER IS MADE WITH A COMBINATION OF FIBERGLASS AND FLEECE. AND THE END RESULT IS A CUSTOM MOLDED BUMPER WITH AN
AERODYNAMIC SHAPE, A COOL LITTLE KICK OUT HERE, AND ENOUGH REAL ESTATE TO HOUSE THE APR CARBON FIBER INLETS FOR OUR BRAKE COOLING DUCTS AS WELL AS MAYBE EVEN SOME REAL ESTATE FOR SOME KIND OF A FOG LIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. AND ALL OF IT IS BATHED IN THE HIGH BUILD POLYESTER SURFACER
THAT YOU'VE SEEN US USE QUITE A BIT HERE ON POWERBLOCK, AND IT ALL STARTS WITH THE STOCK BUMPER AND A WIRE FRAME. NOW THE STOCK BUMPER IS A STAMPED STEEL UPPER COMBINED WITH A PLASTIC LOWER, AND IT DIDN'T REALLY HAVE THE LOOK WE WANTED. WE LOOKED THROUGH A BUNCH OF CATALOGS AND WE STILL DIDN'T FIND ANYTHING THAT WOULD SUIT THE REST OF THIS TRUCK, ESPECIALLY THE CUSTOM BODY WORK. SO IT'S TRUCKS, WE DECIDED TO MAKE OUR OWN. AND OF COURSE THIS STARTS WITH A STOCK BUMPER, AND THEN I BUILT A WIRE FORM TO GIVE THE SHAPE THAT I WANTED. AND I DID THIS WHILE THE BUMPER WAS ON THE TRUCK TO GIVE ME THE GROUND CLEARANCE I NEEDED AND THE OVERALL SHAPE. YOU CAN STAND BACK, KINDA SCOPE IT OUT AND LOOK AT IT, AND REALLY PERFECT YOUR DESIGN. BUT I DIDN'T START WITH A QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD, I STARTED WITH TIG WIRE. YOU CAN SEE PRETTY MUCH EXACTLY HOW THIS THING KINDA FELL INTO PLACE. THE TIG WIRE IS EASY TO BEND, AND I CAN EXPERIMENT, AND I CAN DO A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT SHAPES AND SEE WHERE IT STARTED AND JUST MIG WELD IT TOGETHER AND EASILY COME UP WITH MY FORM. AND THEN TRANSFER THESE SHAPES ONTO THE QUARTER INCH ROD. QUARTER INCH ROD IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFICULT TO BEND AND IT'S
NOT NEARLY AS FORGIVING AS THE TIG WIRE. SO LETS TALK ABOUT THAT. BY THE WAY, A COAT HANGER WORKS GREAT FOR THIS SAME TYPE OF A PROJECT.
IT'S EASY TO BEND AND THEY'RE CHEAP. YOU CAN DO PRETTY MUCH ANY SHAPE YOU WANT. I STOLE A BUNCH OF IAN'S TIG WIRE, AND I LIKE THE STRAIGHTNESS OF IT, BUT WE ENDED UP USING QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD BECAUSE IT'S THE SAME STEEL ROD WE USED ON THE FENDERS AND THE BED SIDES TO MAKE THE INSIDE RADIUS AND TO BUILD THE STRENGTH BACK INTO THE PANELS. SO KIND OF A COMMON THEME, BUT THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT THICKNESSES AND DIFFERENT TYPES OF STOCK AVAILABLE TO YOU.
FOR INSTANCE, SEVENSIXTEENTHS AND HALF INCH, BUT AS THEY
GET BIGGER THEY GET HEAVIER. SO THE COMPROMISE WAS QUARTER INCH GIVES US THE WEIGHT AND THE EASE OF CONSTRUCTION THAT I WAS LOOKING FOR TO MAKE THIS PROJECT. BUT LIKE WE SAID, THE STEEL ROD IS A LITTLE MORE DIFFICULT TO BEND. THAT'S WHERE MATCO COMES IN BECAUSE THEY'VE GOT SOME NICE TUBING BENDERS AVAILABLE. THIS GUY HAS LONG ARMS AND YOU CAN BEND UP TO HALF INCH DIAMETER. THIS IS WHAT YOU TYPICALLY USE FOR BRAKE LINES AND IT WORKS GOOD FOR THE STEEL ROD TOO. YOU'VE GOT TO MAN UP A LITTLE BIT THOUGH.
YOU CAN BUT THIS IS PROBABLY NOT THE BEST, OH THERE WE GO. IT'S A BIT OF A CHALLENGE. YOU CAN IMAGINE MAKING THAT RADIUS BY HAND, IT'S A LITTLE
BIT MORE DIFFICULT TO DO.
HOWEVER YOU CAN GET IT DONE WITH THE TUBING BENDERS. BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE THEM, HERE'S AN INEXPENSIVE WAY TO MAKE SOME SIMPLE FORMING DYES. YOU'VE GOT A CCLAMP, SOMETHING ROUND, YOU CAN ROCK 'N ROLL. THIS FOR INSTANCE IS A PULLEY OFF OF THE FOURSIX THAT WE PULLED OUT OF THE RANGER TO PUT THE NEW ALUMINATOR IN, AND IT'S OBVIOUS WHAT YOU CAN DO. YOU CAN LITERALLY USE IT TO PULL YOUR FORMS AROUND. EVEN WHEN IT'S COAT HANGER OR TIG WIRE THAT YOU COULD EASILY BEND BY HAND, YOU CAN USE THIS GUY TO MAKE A SMOOTH RADIUS THAT'S PERFECT RATHER THAN ONE OF THESE THAT'S GOING TO BE INCONSISTENT. SO IT'S A GREAT TOOL WHETHER YOU HAVE THE TUBING BENDERS OR NOT. HERE'S ANOTHER THING TO REMEMBER. YOU SAW ME BEND THIS WITH THE TUBING BENDER, BUT IF I TRY AND DO IT ON MY HOMEMADE DYE, I CAN'T DO IT. SO HERE'S WHERE YOU CAN USE LEVERAGE, IT'S SIMPLE PHYSICS. WE JUST CUT A LONGER PIECE OF THE SAME STOCK AND I CAN USE THE LEVERAGE AND EASILY BEND AROUND LIKE SO, AND I CAN MAKE A NICE CONSISTENT RADIUS THAT WAY. SO KEEP THAT IN MIND WHEN YOU'RE TRIMMING PIECES. YOU MIGHT WASTE A LITTLE WITH THE LONGER STOCK, BUT YOU'RE GONNA GET THE RADIUS AND THE BENDS THAT YOU WANT. SO NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW I GOT MY WIRE FORM IN PLACE, I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF PREP WORK TO DO BEFORE I PUT MY SUPER CASUAL COUCH POTATO SUIT TO A MUCH BETTER USE.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WELL WE'RE SHOWING YOU NOW TO MAKE A CUSTOM FRONT BUMPER OUT OF SOME RATHER UNCONVENTIONAL MATERIALS. NOW I'VE GOT ALL THE METAL PREPPED WITH 24 GRIT, WHICH IS VERY AGGRESSIVE, BUT WE NEED A GOOD, STRONG MECHANICAL BOND. WELL HERE'S THE BIG SECRET. THE REASON THIS THING IS SO COMFORTABLE, AND FLEXIBLE, IS BECAUSE IT'S MADE OUT OF FLEECE, AND FLEECE HAS THE AMAZING PROPERTY TO WHERE YOU CAN STRETCH IT AND IT RETAINS THE SHAPE OF WHAT YOU'RE STRETCHING IT OVER. THAT'S WHY GUYS DOING PRO AUDIO PROJECTS USE FLEECE, STRETCH IT AROUND WOOD FORMS, AND IT RETAINS THE SHAPE ONCE YOU ADD THE FIBERGLASS RESIN. THOSE GUYS USE STAPLES. WE CAN'T PUT STAPLES IN A METAL BUMPER, SO THERE'S SOME OTHER SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO USE. OBVIOUSLY YOU'RE GONNA NEED SOME KIND OF FIBERGLASS RESIN. WE JUST GOT THIS FROM THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS SUPPLY STORE, AND IT USUALLY COMES WITH ITS OWN CATALYST. NOW I'VE GOT THIS GIANT NUT AND BOLT AND SOME UNWAXED DENTAL FLOSS. HANG IN THERE, I'LL EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS ABOUT LATER. SCISSORS TO CUT THE FLEECE, A LITTLE SINGLE EDGE RAZOR BLADE HELPS TO GET IN SOME TIGHT CORNERS, AND DISPOSABLE BRUSHES SINCE THE RESIN IS PRETTY MUCH GONNA MAKE THESE USELESS AFTER IT SETS UP. YOU CAN USE CLOTHES PINS TO HOLD THINGS IN PLACE. HOWEVER THEY DON'T HOLD MUCH TENSION, SO WE'RE GONNA USE THESE BINDER CLIPS. YOU CAN GET THESE AT ANY OFFICE SUPPLY, AND THEY'RE STRONGER AND THEY'LL HOLD MORE TENSION THAN THESE GUYS. NOW THIS PROJECT IS NOT QUITE AS MESSY AS WORKING WITH TRADITIONAL FIBERGLASS MATTING. HOWEVER IT'S FIBERGLASS, IT'S MESSY, SO GLOVE UP AND PROTECT YOUR SKIN.
NOW THIS IS A PRETTY FUN BODY SHOP PROJECT, AND IT'S REALLY FORGIVING. THE FLEECE DOESN'T REALLY CARE WHICH ORIENTATION YOU LAY IT DOWN. YOU'RE KIND OF SNEAKING UP ON IT AND PINNING ONE SIDE TO STRETCH THE OTHER SIDE. IT DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FORCE, BUT USING MULTIPLE CLAMPS GETS YOU AN EVEN TENSION AND A MORE EVEN SHAPE. WHAT I FOUND WORKED BEST FOR THIS BUMPER WAS TO PULL IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS. FOR INSTANCE, WE'VE GOT THE TOP OR THE BOTTOM, NOW WE'RE WORKING SIDE TO SIDE, IN PARTICULAR THE INSIDE OF OUR AIR INLET AS OPPOSED TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE BUMPER EDGE. THE BEAUTY OF FLEECE IS THAT IT CONFORMS AROUND CORNERS, AND YOU CAN REALLY DICTATE THE SHAPE THAT YOU WANT JUST
BY STRETCHING IT IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS. NOW HERE'S WHERE THE UNWAXED DENTAL FLOSS COMES IN HANDY. BASICALLY WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS OPPOSING THE TENSION THAT YOU'VE CREATED IN THE WIRE FORM. I'M TYING IT AT ONE END AND WEIGHTING IT DOWN WITH A GIANT NUT/BOLT ON THE OTHER END. PRETTY OBVIOUS WHAT IT'S DOING, IT'S CREATING MY COOL LITTLE KICK OUT. NOW THE UNWAXED PART OF THE DENTAL FLOSS ALLOWS THE RESIN TO PERMEATE THE FLOSS INSTEAD OF SITTING ON TOP OF IT. SO IT LITERALLY BECOMES PART OF THE BUMPER WHEN YOU APPLY THE RESIN. THE MIX RATIO FOR YOUR FIBERGLASS RESIN AND CATALYST IS OBVIOUSLY ON THE SIDE OF THE CAN. BUT IF IT'S REALLY HOT, YOU WANT TO PUT A LITTLE LESS IN. IF IT'S VERY COLD, YOU WANT TO PUT A LITTLE MORE IN. THE POINT IS MIX IT THOROUGHLY ONCE YOU'VE GOT YOUR CATALYST ADDED TO THE RESIN. NOW THIS IS THE FUN PART, AND THERE'S REALLY NO SKILL OR TALENT INVOLVED IN THIS. YOU'RE SIMPLY BRUSHING THE FIBERGLASS RESIN ONTO THE FLEECE, BEING CAREFUL OF COURSE NOT TO PUT TOO MUCH ON AND DISTURB THE SHAPE. IF YOU WANTED TO YOU COULD PUT IT IN A LARGE ORIFICE SPRAY GUN AND SPRAY IT ON. I JUST FIND IT'S A LITTLE MORE THERAPEUTIC TO DO IT THIS WAY. OKAY, WE LET THE RESIN SET UP FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS. NOW WE'RE GONNA TRY TO TAKE SOME OF THESE CLIPS OFF, AND SOMETIMES YOU GET LUCKY AND THEY JUST POP RIGHT OFF.
NOW THESE CLIPS ARE THANKFULLY COOPERATING. HOWEVER, IF YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT OF THE RESIN MIX, DON'T WORRY. THEY CAN BE GROUND DOWN FLUSH AND COVERED UP WITH FILLER SINCE WE ARE GOING TO BE USING FILLER FOR THE FINAL SHAPE. WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF LUMPY TRANSITIONS HERE THAT WE'RE GONNA SMOOTH DOWN WITH A GRINDER. THIS IS THE REASON FOR THE HEAVY DUTY 24 GRIT SCRATCHES IN THE STEEL. IT ALLOWS THE RESIN TO MAKE A NICE MECHANICAL BOND AND STICK TO THE BUMPER.
TAKE CARE OF THE REST OF THAT WITH SOME FILLER.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WELL IT'S TAKING SHAPE, IT'S LOOKING LIKE A BUMPER NOW.
SO THE NEXT STEP IS TO CUT THE HOLE FOR OUR COOL CARBON FIBER AIR INLET DUCT FOR THE BRAKE COOLING VENT.
WE GOT THESE FROM APR. AND SINCE THEY'RE UNIVERSAL, THE SAME SIZE HOLE GOES ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND THAT STARTS WITH MAKING A TEMPLATE. NOW THIS IS THE SAME BASIC PRINCIPLE AS DOING THE MIRROR IMAGE OF A GRAPHIC ON A PAINT JOB, LIKE A FLAME JOB.
I PRINT THE EDGES SO I KNOW WHERE MY PAPER WRAPS AROUND THE ENDS, AND I'M SIMPLY USING A SPRAY CAN INSTEAD OF A PIN TO MARK THE SHAPE OF THE HOLE FROM THE BACK SIDE.
TAKE THAT, TRANSFER IT TO THE OTHER SIDE. IN SWAPPING IT OVER TO THE OTHER SIDE I'M ALSO FLIPPING IT UPSIDE DOWN SO WE HAVE A LITERAL MIRROR IMAGE, USING THE SIDES THAT I PULLED IT OVER TO MARK AS WELL AS SOME MASKING TAPE AND LOCATING IT IN JUST ABOUT THE SAME SPOT. I SAY JUST ABOUT BECAUSE IT'S NOT REALLY ROCKET SCIENCE THAT WE'RE WORKING WITH HERE.
I WANT TO GET IT CLOSE AND THEN EYEBALL IT, AND THEN MAKE MY FINAL ADJUSTMENTS AS I SNEAK UP ON IT. NOW RATHER THAN RUN A PEN AROUND AN INCONSISTENT EDGE, I'M USING THE SPRAY CAN AGAIN BECAUSE IT GIVES ME A BALL PARK IDEA OF WHERE I'M GOING TO START TRIMMING. THE MARKER JUST GIVES ME A CLEARER IDEA OF WHERE TO
CUT WHEN I'M TRIMMING FOR THE OPENING. ONE FINAL CHECK WITH THE MEASURING TAPE AND COMPARING IT TO THE OTHER SIDE LETS ME KNOW THAT OUR TEMPLATE IS EXACTLY WHERE WE NEEDED TO BE. YEP, WE'RE IN THE BALL PARK. I'M ACTUALLY USING AN ANGLE GRINDER AND A 36 GRIT CUTOFF WHEEL TO TRIM THE OPENING. THE FLEECE IS THIN AND IT'S SOFT, AND THIS GIVES ME MORE CONTROL AROUND THE RADIUS. HERE'S WHERE THE INLET SCOOP ITSELF BECOMES THE TEMPLATE. I'M SIMPLY USING A MARKER AND MARKING THE HOLES PRECISELY WHERE THEY SHOULD BE. I START OFF WITH AN EIGHTH INCH DRILL BIT AND MAKE THE HOLE SLIGHTLY LARGER. THIS SIDE FITS, GONNA BUILD THAT UP A LITTLE. NOW SINCE THE INLET DUCT IS FLAT AND THE SURFACE OF OUR
BUMPER IS CURVED, WE NEED TO BUILD THE EDGE JUST A LITTLE BIT FOR A MORE FLUSH FIT. I'M USING A FIBERGLASS REINFORCED FILLER MADE BY KLAUSEN THAT WE PICKED UP FROM OUR FRIENDS AT AUTO BODY COLOR AND SUPPLY. BEFORE THE FILLER SETS UP COMPLETELY, I'M SHAPING IT WITH 36 GRIT PAPER. THIS ALLOWS ME TO MOVE QUICKLY AND EASILY, AND ESTABLISH THE SHAPE THAT I WANT. FIBERGLASS MAKES IT STRONG. HERE WE GO! NOW HERE COMES THE TEDIOUS PART OF AUTO BODY REPAIR, WHICH IS BASICALLY USING FILLER AND BLOCKING AND FILLING AND BLOCKING AND FILLING AND BLOCKING AGAIN. KEEP IN MIND THOUGH WITH THESE PROJECT, THE FLEECE ESTABLISHES THE SHAPE.
ALL WE'RE DOING IS A THIN, THIN SKIM COAT OF A FINISHING PUTTY. NO MORE THAN A SIXTEENTH AND MAYBE AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH THICK. I'M USING 80 GRIT PAPER TO BLOCK IT OUT AND REALLY JUST REFINING THE SHAPE, FILLING IN ANY CRACKS OR PIN HOLES THAT MAY BE THERE AND QUICKLY GETTING IT READY FOR PRIMER/SURFACER.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL WHILE KEVIN WAS EATING POPCORN AND LOUNGING IN FLEECE, I HAD A CHANCE TO COMPLETELY COAT THE FRAME OF PROJECT ROLLING THUNDER WITH POR. AND IN THE AREAS WHERE I COULDN'T GET A BRUSH, I'M JUST TOUCHING IT UP WITH SOME RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT TO GET RID OF THE RUST COLOR ON THE INSIDE SPOTS. NOW WE DIDN'T END UP WITH A SHOW CAR QUALITY FINISH BECAUSE WE BRUSHED THIS STUFF ON, BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT WE WERE AFTER. WE WANTED SOMETHING TOUGH, SOMETHING THAT COULD STAND UP TO THE ROCK CHIPS. AND THIS TRUCK SITS KINDA LOW, IT'S GONNA SEE PLENTY OF THEM. PLUS POR IS EASY TO TOUCH UP. NOW SPEAKING OF WHICH, WE DIDN'T LEAVE ANY BARE METAL TO
WELD THE COIL OVER MOUNTS TO. THAT'S NO BIG DEAL, WHEN THE TIME COMES, WE'LL GRIND IT
DOWN TO BARE METAL, WELD IN THE MOUNTS, BRUSH IN SOME
POR, BLEND IT IN, MAKE IT LOOK NICE, AND CALL IT DONE. AND WITH THE FRAME COMPLETELY COATED WE CAN FINALLY START THE FINAL REASSEMBLY OF THIS TRUCK.
NOW HANGING OFF THE FRONT OF THE RANGER IS SOMETHING WE HAVEN'T SHOWN YOU BEFORE, AND IT'S THE MOUNTING BRACKET FOR THE HEAT EXCHANGER TO COOL THE SUPERCHARGER. AND IT'S JUST SMALL DIAMETER SQUARE TUBING, 20 GAUGE SHEET METAL BENT UP, AND IT'S ATTACHED TO THE BODY WITH RIV NUTS OR NUT SERTS SO IT'S REMOVABLE. AND WITH IT SITTING DOWN NICE AND NOW, WELL IT'S NOT GONNA
INTERFERE WITH ENGINE COOLING OR THE RADIATOR, AND IT'LL BE PROTECTED BY KEVIN'S CUSTOM MADE BUMPER THAT HE USED A GENDERLESS MAN ROBE TO MAKE.
(KEVIN)>> NOW THIS IS JUST A MOCK UP. WE HAVEN'T REALLY STARTED ASSEMBLING YET, BUT WE WANTED TO SHOW YOU WHAT THE BUMPER LOOKS LIKE. ONE THING WE HAVEN'T SHOWN YOU IS THE AIR INLET OPENING FOR THE HEAT EXCHANGER. WE DIDN'T WANT TO LEAVE IT EXPOSED, SO WE USED ANOTHER SCRAP FORD RANGER GRILL AND JUST MADE THE INSERT FIT THE OPENING. IT JUST SCREWS IN FROM THE BACK WITH SOME TABS WE ADDED. SO WE'VE GOT ABOUT $12 BUCKS WORTH OF FLEECE, ABOUT SIX DOLLARS IN THE OFFICE SUPPLY BINDER CLAMPS, WE USED ABOUT $10 BUCKS WORTH OF FIBERGLASS RESIN, ABOUT $10 DOLLARS WORTH
OF FILLER, AND ABOUT $30 BUCKS WORTH OF THIS HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACE. THE MOST EXPENSIVE THING ON THIS BUMPER COVER WERE THE CARBON FIBER INLET DUCTS AT ABOUT $200 BUCKS FOR THE PAIR. SO ALL TOLD WE'VE GOT ABOUT $275 BUCKS IN THIS BUMPER COVER. NOW IF WE WANTED TO GO ALL RACE CAR CRAZY WE COULD SEND
THIS OFF TO A CARBON FIBER SHOP AND HAVE THEM USE IT FOR A PLUG AND MAKE US A CARBON FIBER BUMPER THAT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THIS, BUT WEIGHS ABOUT THREE POUNDS, COSTS ABOUT $3,000 BUCKS. SO FOR $275 WELL WE'VE GOT A COOL CUSTOM BUMPER THAT SERVES ALL OF OUR PURPOSES INCLUDING CARBON FIBER INLET DUCTS FOR BRAKE COOLING DUCTS AND LOTS OF AIR COMING IN FOR OUR HEAT EXCHANGER SO OUR SUPERCHARGER DOESN'T OVERHEAT. THE HIGHEST COST OF THIS WHOLE BUMPER COVER WAS ACTUALLY MY DIGNITY AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SHOW. HEY, THAT'S LIFE.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO MAKE A BIG IMPROVEMENT IN THE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE LEVELS OF YOUR '03 AND NEWER GM PICK UP OR SUV? WELL YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE EFORCE SUPERCHARGER FROM EDELBROCK. THE UNIQUE DESIGN OF THIS INVERTED ROOTS STYLE SUPERCHARGER ALLOWS FOR LONGER INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER LENGTH, ALLOWING FOR MORE TORQUE, WHICH IS ESPECIALLY HELPFUL IN TOWING APPLICATIONS. AND IN HERE THE EATON TBS ROTORS RUN COOLER AND QUIETER, WHICH IMPROVES VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY AND PUTS MORE POWER TO THE GROUND. AND THAT WAY YOU CAN MAKE YOUR ALREADY POTENT LS ENGINE THAT MUCH MORE POWERFUL. I THINK WE COULD FIND A HOME FOR ONE OF THESE AS WELL. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCKS, SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.
Show Full Transcript
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. WELL I KNOW THAT YOU OR SOMEBODY IN YOUR FAMILY HAS GOTTEN ONE OF THESE FOR A GIFT, AND YOU DON'T WANT TO HURT THE FEELINGS OF THE PERSON THAT GOT YOU THIS GIFT BUT YOU DON'T REALLY KNOW WHAT TO DO WITH IT. WELL DON'T WORRY, I'M GONNA HELP YOU OUT CAUSE TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE THIS OUT OF THIS, NOT KIDDING.
(RYAN)>> YEAH, WELL, WHILE KEVIN'S TURNING HIS HIGHLY COVETED CHRISTMAS GIFT INTO A CUSTOM BUMPER, I'M GONNA BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE, ANYTHING ELSE. MAYBE PAINTING THIS FRAME, I JUST HOPE HE'S WEARING MORE THAN HIS BIRTHDAY SUIT UNDER THAT THING.
(KEVIN)>> WELL TO ANSWER THAT QUESTION, YES, I AM FULLY CLOTHED UNDERNEATH MY SUPER COMFY CHRISTMAS PRESENT. AND TO GET IT RIGHT OUT OF THE WAY RIGHT FROM THE START OUR CUSTOM BUMPER IS MADE WITH A COMBINATION OF FIBERGLASS AND FLEECE. AND THE END RESULT IS A CUSTOM MOLDED BUMPER WITH AN
AERODYNAMIC SHAPE, A COOL LITTLE KICK OUT HERE, AND ENOUGH REAL ESTATE TO HOUSE THE APR CARBON FIBER INLETS FOR OUR BRAKE COOLING DUCTS AS WELL AS MAYBE EVEN SOME REAL ESTATE FOR SOME KIND OF A FOG LIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. AND ALL OF IT IS BATHED IN THE HIGH BUILD POLYESTER SURFACER
THAT YOU'VE SEEN US USE QUITE A BIT HERE ON POWERBLOCK, AND IT ALL STARTS WITH THE STOCK BUMPER AND A WIRE FRAME. NOW THE STOCK BUMPER IS A STAMPED STEEL UPPER COMBINED WITH A PLASTIC LOWER, AND IT DIDN'T REALLY HAVE THE LOOK WE WANTED. WE LOOKED THROUGH A BUNCH OF CATALOGS AND WE STILL DIDN'T FIND ANYTHING THAT WOULD SUIT THE REST OF THIS TRUCK, ESPECIALLY THE CUSTOM BODY WORK. SO IT'S TRUCKS, WE DECIDED TO MAKE OUR OWN. AND OF COURSE THIS STARTS WITH A STOCK BUMPER, AND THEN I BUILT A WIRE FORM TO GIVE THE SHAPE THAT I WANTED. AND I DID THIS WHILE THE BUMPER WAS ON THE TRUCK TO GIVE ME THE GROUND CLEARANCE I NEEDED AND THE OVERALL SHAPE. YOU CAN STAND BACK, KINDA SCOPE IT OUT AND LOOK AT IT, AND REALLY PERFECT YOUR DESIGN. BUT I DIDN'T START WITH A QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD, I STARTED WITH TIG WIRE. YOU CAN SEE PRETTY MUCH EXACTLY HOW THIS THING KINDA FELL INTO PLACE. THE TIG WIRE IS EASY TO BEND, AND I CAN EXPERIMENT, AND I CAN DO A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT SHAPES AND SEE WHERE IT STARTED AND JUST MIG WELD IT TOGETHER AND EASILY COME UP WITH MY FORM. AND THEN TRANSFER THESE SHAPES ONTO THE QUARTER INCH ROD. QUARTER INCH ROD IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFICULT TO BEND AND IT'S
NOT NEARLY AS FORGIVING AS THE TIG WIRE. SO LETS TALK ABOUT THAT. BY THE WAY, A COAT HANGER WORKS GREAT FOR THIS SAME TYPE OF A PROJECT.
IT'S EASY TO BEND AND THEY'RE CHEAP. YOU CAN DO PRETTY MUCH ANY SHAPE YOU WANT. I STOLE A BUNCH OF IAN'S TIG WIRE, AND I LIKE THE STRAIGHTNESS OF IT, BUT WE ENDED UP USING QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD BECAUSE IT'S THE SAME STEEL ROD WE USED ON THE FENDERS AND THE BED SIDES TO MAKE THE INSIDE RADIUS AND TO BUILD THE STRENGTH BACK INTO THE PANELS. SO KIND OF A COMMON THEME, BUT THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT THICKNESSES AND DIFFERENT TYPES OF STOCK AVAILABLE TO YOU.
FOR INSTANCE, SEVENSIXTEENTHS AND HALF INCH, BUT AS THEY
GET BIGGER THEY GET HEAVIER. SO THE COMPROMISE WAS QUARTER INCH GIVES US THE WEIGHT AND THE EASE OF CONSTRUCTION THAT I WAS LOOKING FOR TO MAKE THIS PROJECT. BUT LIKE WE SAID, THE STEEL ROD IS A LITTLE MORE DIFFICULT TO BEND. THAT'S WHERE MATCO COMES IN BECAUSE THEY'VE GOT SOME NICE TUBING BENDERS AVAILABLE. THIS GUY HAS LONG ARMS AND YOU CAN BEND UP TO HALF INCH DIAMETER. THIS IS WHAT YOU TYPICALLY USE FOR BRAKE LINES AND IT WORKS GOOD FOR THE STEEL ROD TOO. YOU'VE GOT TO MAN UP A LITTLE BIT THOUGH.
YOU CAN BUT THIS IS PROBABLY NOT THE BEST, OH THERE WE GO. IT'S A BIT OF A CHALLENGE. YOU CAN IMAGINE MAKING THAT RADIUS BY HAND, IT'S A LITTLE
BIT MORE DIFFICULT TO DO.
HOWEVER YOU CAN GET IT DONE WITH THE TUBING BENDERS. BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE THEM, HERE'S AN INEXPENSIVE WAY TO MAKE SOME SIMPLE FORMING DYES. YOU'VE GOT A CCLAMP, SOMETHING ROUND, YOU CAN ROCK 'N ROLL. THIS FOR INSTANCE IS A PULLEY OFF OF THE FOURSIX THAT WE PULLED OUT OF THE RANGER TO PUT THE NEW ALUMINATOR IN, AND IT'S OBVIOUS WHAT YOU CAN DO. YOU CAN LITERALLY USE IT TO PULL YOUR FORMS AROUND. EVEN WHEN IT'S COAT HANGER OR TIG WIRE THAT YOU COULD EASILY BEND BY HAND, YOU CAN USE THIS GUY TO MAKE A SMOOTH RADIUS THAT'S PERFECT RATHER THAN ONE OF THESE THAT'S GOING TO BE INCONSISTENT. SO IT'S A GREAT TOOL WHETHER YOU HAVE THE TUBING BENDERS OR NOT. HERE'S ANOTHER THING TO REMEMBER. YOU SAW ME BEND THIS WITH THE TUBING BENDER, BUT IF I TRY AND DO IT ON MY HOMEMADE DYE, I CAN'T DO IT. SO HERE'S WHERE YOU CAN USE LEVERAGE, IT'S SIMPLE PHYSICS. WE JUST CUT A LONGER PIECE OF THE SAME STOCK AND I CAN USE THE LEVERAGE AND EASILY BEND AROUND LIKE SO, AND I CAN MAKE A NICE CONSISTENT RADIUS THAT WAY. SO KEEP THAT IN MIND WHEN YOU'RE TRIMMING PIECES. YOU MIGHT WASTE A LITTLE WITH THE LONGER STOCK, BUT YOU'RE GONNA GET THE RADIUS AND THE BENDS THAT YOU WANT. SO NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW I GOT MY WIRE FORM IN PLACE, I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF PREP WORK TO DO BEFORE I PUT MY SUPER CASUAL COUCH POTATO SUIT TO A MUCH BETTER USE.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WELL WE'RE SHOWING YOU NOW TO MAKE A CUSTOM FRONT BUMPER OUT OF SOME RATHER UNCONVENTIONAL MATERIALS. NOW I'VE GOT ALL THE METAL PREPPED WITH 24 GRIT, WHICH IS VERY AGGRESSIVE, BUT WE NEED A GOOD, STRONG MECHANICAL BOND. WELL HERE'S THE BIG SECRET. THE REASON THIS THING IS SO COMFORTABLE, AND FLEXIBLE, IS BECAUSE IT'S MADE OUT OF FLEECE, AND FLEECE HAS THE AMAZING PROPERTY TO WHERE YOU CAN STRETCH IT AND IT RETAINS THE SHAPE OF WHAT YOU'RE STRETCHING IT OVER. THAT'S WHY GUYS DOING PRO AUDIO PROJECTS USE FLEECE, STRETCH IT AROUND WOOD FORMS, AND IT RETAINS THE SHAPE ONCE YOU ADD THE FIBERGLASS RESIN. THOSE GUYS USE STAPLES. WE CAN'T PUT STAPLES IN A METAL BUMPER, SO THERE'S SOME OTHER SUPPLIES AND MATERIALS THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO USE. OBVIOUSLY YOU'RE GONNA NEED SOME KIND OF FIBERGLASS RESIN. WE JUST GOT THIS FROM THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS SUPPLY STORE, AND IT USUALLY COMES WITH ITS OWN CATALYST. NOW I'VE GOT THIS GIANT NUT AND BOLT AND SOME UNWAXED DENTAL FLOSS. HANG IN THERE, I'LL EXPLAIN WHAT THIS IS ABOUT LATER. SCISSORS TO CUT THE FLEECE, A LITTLE SINGLE EDGE RAZOR BLADE HELPS TO GET IN SOME TIGHT CORNERS, AND DISPOSABLE BRUSHES SINCE THE RESIN IS PRETTY MUCH GONNA MAKE THESE USELESS AFTER IT SETS UP. YOU CAN USE CLOTHES PINS TO HOLD THINGS IN PLACE. HOWEVER THEY DON'T HOLD MUCH TENSION, SO WE'RE GONNA USE THESE BINDER CLIPS. YOU CAN GET THESE AT ANY OFFICE SUPPLY, AND THEY'RE STRONGER AND THEY'LL HOLD MORE TENSION THAN THESE GUYS. NOW THIS PROJECT IS NOT QUITE AS MESSY AS WORKING WITH TRADITIONAL FIBERGLASS MATTING. HOWEVER IT'S FIBERGLASS, IT'S MESSY, SO GLOVE UP AND PROTECT YOUR SKIN.
NOW THIS IS A PRETTY FUN BODY SHOP PROJECT, AND IT'S REALLY FORGIVING. THE FLEECE DOESN'T REALLY CARE WHICH ORIENTATION YOU LAY IT DOWN. YOU'RE KIND OF SNEAKING UP ON IT AND PINNING ONE SIDE TO STRETCH THE OTHER SIDE. IT DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FORCE, BUT USING MULTIPLE CLAMPS GETS YOU AN EVEN TENSION AND A MORE EVEN SHAPE. WHAT I FOUND WORKED BEST FOR THIS BUMPER WAS TO PULL IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS. FOR INSTANCE, WE'VE GOT THE TOP OR THE BOTTOM, NOW WE'RE WORKING SIDE TO SIDE, IN PARTICULAR THE INSIDE OF OUR AIR INLET AS OPPOSED TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE BUMPER EDGE. THE BEAUTY OF FLEECE IS THAT IT CONFORMS AROUND CORNERS, AND YOU CAN REALLY DICTATE THE SHAPE THAT YOU WANT JUST
BY STRETCHING IT IN DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS. NOW HERE'S WHERE THE UNWAXED DENTAL FLOSS COMES IN HANDY. BASICALLY WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS OPPOSING THE TENSION THAT YOU'VE CREATED IN THE WIRE FORM. I'M TYING IT AT ONE END AND WEIGHTING IT DOWN WITH A GIANT NUT/BOLT ON THE OTHER END. PRETTY OBVIOUS WHAT IT'S DOING, IT'S CREATING MY COOL LITTLE KICK OUT. NOW THE UNWAXED PART OF THE DENTAL FLOSS ALLOWS THE RESIN TO PERMEATE THE FLOSS INSTEAD OF SITTING ON TOP OF IT. SO IT LITERALLY BECOMES PART OF THE BUMPER WHEN YOU APPLY THE RESIN. THE MIX RATIO FOR YOUR FIBERGLASS RESIN AND CATALYST IS OBVIOUSLY ON THE SIDE OF THE CAN. BUT IF IT'S REALLY HOT, YOU WANT TO PUT A LITTLE LESS IN. IF IT'S VERY COLD, YOU WANT TO PUT A LITTLE MORE IN. THE POINT IS MIX IT THOROUGHLY ONCE YOU'VE GOT YOUR CATALYST ADDED TO THE RESIN. NOW THIS IS THE FUN PART, AND THERE'S REALLY NO SKILL OR TALENT INVOLVED IN THIS. YOU'RE SIMPLY BRUSHING THE FIBERGLASS RESIN ONTO THE FLEECE, BEING CAREFUL OF COURSE NOT TO PUT TOO MUCH ON AND DISTURB THE SHAPE. IF YOU WANTED TO YOU COULD PUT IT IN A LARGE ORIFICE SPRAY GUN AND SPRAY IT ON. I JUST FIND IT'S A LITTLE MORE THERAPEUTIC TO DO IT THIS WAY. OKAY, WE LET THE RESIN SET UP FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS. NOW WE'RE GONNA TRY TO TAKE SOME OF THESE CLIPS OFF, AND SOMETIMES YOU GET LUCKY AND THEY JUST POP RIGHT OFF.
NOW THESE CLIPS ARE THANKFULLY COOPERATING. HOWEVER, IF YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT OF THE RESIN MIX, DON'T WORRY. THEY CAN BE GROUND DOWN FLUSH AND COVERED UP WITH FILLER SINCE WE ARE GOING TO BE USING FILLER FOR THE FINAL SHAPE. WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF LUMPY TRANSITIONS HERE THAT WE'RE GONNA SMOOTH DOWN WITH A GRINDER. THIS IS THE REASON FOR THE HEAVY DUTY 24 GRIT SCRATCHES IN THE STEEL. IT ALLOWS THE RESIN TO MAKE A NICE MECHANICAL BOND AND STICK TO THE BUMPER.
TAKE CARE OF THE REST OF THAT WITH SOME FILLER.
(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WELL IT'S TAKING SHAPE, IT'S LOOKING LIKE A BUMPER NOW.
SO THE NEXT STEP IS TO CUT THE HOLE FOR OUR COOL CARBON FIBER AIR INLET DUCT FOR THE BRAKE COOLING VENT.
WE GOT THESE FROM APR. AND SINCE THEY'RE UNIVERSAL, THE SAME SIZE HOLE GOES ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND THAT STARTS WITH MAKING A TEMPLATE. NOW THIS IS THE SAME BASIC PRINCIPLE AS DOING THE MIRROR IMAGE OF A GRAPHIC ON A PAINT JOB, LIKE A FLAME JOB.
I PRINT THE EDGES SO I KNOW WHERE MY PAPER WRAPS AROUND THE ENDS, AND I'M SIMPLY USING A SPRAY CAN INSTEAD OF A PIN TO MARK THE SHAPE OF THE HOLE FROM THE BACK SIDE.
TAKE THAT, TRANSFER IT TO THE OTHER SIDE. IN SWAPPING IT OVER TO THE OTHER SIDE I'M ALSO FLIPPING IT UPSIDE DOWN SO WE HAVE A LITERAL MIRROR IMAGE, USING THE SIDES THAT I PULLED IT OVER TO MARK AS WELL AS SOME MASKING TAPE AND LOCATING IT IN JUST ABOUT THE SAME SPOT. I SAY JUST ABOUT BECAUSE IT'S NOT REALLY ROCKET SCIENCE THAT WE'RE WORKING WITH HERE.
I WANT TO GET IT CLOSE AND THEN EYEBALL IT, AND THEN MAKE MY FINAL ADJUSTMENTS AS I SNEAK UP ON IT. NOW RATHER THAN RUN A PEN AROUND AN INCONSISTENT EDGE, I'M USING THE SPRAY CAN AGAIN BECAUSE IT GIVES ME A BALL PARK IDEA OF WHERE I'M GOING TO START TRIMMING. THE MARKER JUST GIVES ME A CLEARER IDEA OF WHERE TO
CUT WHEN I'M TRIMMING FOR THE OPENING. ONE FINAL CHECK WITH THE MEASURING TAPE AND COMPARING IT TO THE OTHER SIDE LETS ME KNOW THAT OUR TEMPLATE IS EXACTLY WHERE WE NEEDED TO BE. YEP, WE'RE IN THE BALL PARK. I'M ACTUALLY USING AN ANGLE GRINDER AND A 36 GRIT CUTOFF WHEEL TO TRIM THE OPENING. THE FLEECE IS THIN AND IT'S SOFT, AND THIS GIVES ME MORE CONTROL AROUND THE RADIUS. HERE'S WHERE THE INLET SCOOP ITSELF BECOMES THE TEMPLATE. I'M SIMPLY USING A MARKER AND MARKING THE HOLES PRECISELY WHERE THEY SHOULD BE. I START OFF WITH AN EIGHTH INCH DRILL BIT AND MAKE THE HOLE SLIGHTLY LARGER. THIS SIDE FITS, GONNA BUILD THAT UP A LITTLE. NOW SINCE THE INLET DUCT IS FLAT AND THE SURFACE OF OUR
BUMPER IS CURVED, WE NEED TO BUILD THE EDGE JUST A LITTLE BIT FOR A MORE FLUSH FIT. I'M USING A FIBERGLASS REINFORCED FILLER MADE BY KLAUSEN THAT WE PICKED UP FROM OUR FRIENDS AT AUTO BODY COLOR AND SUPPLY. BEFORE THE FILLER SETS UP COMPLETELY, I'M SHAPING IT WITH 36 GRIT PAPER. THIS ALLOWS ME TO MOVE QUICKLY AND EASILY, AND ESTABLISH THE SHAPE THAT I WANT. FIBERGLASS MAKES IT STRONG. HERE WE GO! NOW HERE COMES THE TEDIOUS PART OF AUTO BODY REPAIR, WHICH IS BASICALLY USING FILLER AND BLOCKING AND FILLING AND BLOCKING AND FILLING AND BLOCKING AGAIN. KEEP IN MIND THOUGH WITH THESE PROJECT, THE FLEECE ESTABLISHES THE SHAPE.
ALL WE'RE DOING IS A THIN, THIN SKIM COAT OF A FINISHING PUTTY. NO MORE THAN A SIXTEENTH AND MAYBE AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH THICK. I'M USING 80 GRIT PAPER TO BLOCK IT OUT AND REALLY JUST REFINING THE SHAPE, FILLING IN ANY CRACKS OR PIN HOLES THAT MAY BE THERE AND QUICKLY GETTING IT READY FOR PRIMER/SURFACER.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL WHILE KEVIN WAS EATING POPCORN AND LOUNGING IN FLEECE, I HAD A CHANCE TO COMPLETELY COAT THE FRAME OF PROJECT ROLLING THUNDER WITH POR. AND IN THE AREAS WHERE I COULDN'T GET A BRUSH, I'M JUST TOUCHING IT UP WITH SOME RATTLE CAN SPRAY PAINT TO GET RID OF THE RUST COLOR ON THE INSIDE SPOTS. NOW WE DIDN'T END UP WITH A SHOW CAR QUALITY FINISH BECAUSE WE BRUSHED THIS STUFF ON, BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT WE WERE AFTER. WE WANTED SOMETHING TOUGH, SOMETHING THAT COULD STAND UP TO THE ROCK CHIPS. AND THIS TRUCK SITS KINDA LOW, IT'S GONNA SEE PLENTY OF THEM. PLUS POR IS EASY TO TOUCH UP. NOW SPEAKING OF WHICH, WE DIDN'T LEAVE ANY BARE METAL TO
WELD THE COIL OVER MOUNTS TO. THAT'S NO BIG DEAL, WHEN THE TIME COMES, WE'LL GRIND IT
DOWN TO BARE METAL, WELD IN THE MOUNTS, BRUSH IN SOME
POR, BLEND IT IN, MAKE IT LOOK NICE, AND CALL IT DONE. AND WITH THE FRAME COMPLETELY COATED WE CAN FINALLY START THE FINAL REASSEMBLY OF THIS TRUCK.
NOW HANGING OFF THE FRONT OF THE RANGER IS SOMETHING WE HAVEN'T SHOWN YOU BEFORE, AND IT'S THE MOUNTING BRACKET FOR THE HEAT EXCHANGER TO COOL THE SUPERCHARGER. AND IT'S JUST SMALL DIAMETER SQUARE TUBING, 20 GAUGE SHEET METAL BENT UP, AND IT'S ATTACHED TO THE BODY WITH RIV NUTS OR NUT SERTS SO IT'S REMOVABLE. AND WITH IT SITTING DOWN NICE AND NOW, WELL IT'S NOT GONNA
INTERFERE WITH ENGINE COOLING OR THE RADIATOR, AND IT'LL BE PROTECTED BY KEVIN'S CUSTOM MADE BUMPER THAT HE USED A GENDERLESS MAN ROBE TO MAKE.
(KEVIN)>> NOW THIS IS JUST A MOCK UP. WE HAVEN'T REALLY STARTED ASSEMBLING YET, BUT WE WANTED TO SHOW YOU WHAT THE BUMPER LOOKS LIKE. ONE THING WE HAVEN'T SHOWN YOU IS THE AIR INLET OPENING FOR THE HEAT EXCHANGER. WE DIDN'T WANT TO LEAVE IT EXPOSED, SO WE USED ANOTHER SCRAP FORD RANGER GRILL AND JUST MADE THE INSERT FIT THE OPENING. IT JUST SCREWS IN FROM THE BACK WITH SOME TABS WE ADDED. SO WE'VE GOT ABOUT $12 BUCKS WORTH OF FLEECE, ABOUT SIX DOLLARS IN THE OFFICE SUPPLY BINDER CLAMPS, WE USED ABOUT $10 BUCKS WORTH OF FIBERGLASS RESIN, ABOUT $10 DOLLARS WORTH
OF FILLER, AND ABOUT $30 BUCKS WORTH OF THIS HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACE. THE MOST EXPENSIVE THING ON THIS BUMPER COVER WERE THE CARBON FIBER INLET DUCTS AT ABOUT $200 BUCKS FOR THE PAIR. SO ALL TOLD WE'VE GOT ABOUT $275 BUCKS IN THIS BUMPER COVER. NOW IF WE WANTED TO GO ALL RACE CAR CRAZY WE COULD SEND
THIS OFF TO A CARBON FIBER SHOP AND HAVE THEM USE IT FOR A PLUG AND MAKE US A CARBON FIBER BUMPER THAT LOOKS EXACTLY LIKE THIS, BUT WEIGHS ABOUT THREE POUNDS, COSTS ABOUT $3,000 BUCKS. SO FOR $275 WELL WE'VE GOT A COOL CUSTOM BUMPER THAT SERVES ALL OF OUR PURPOSES INCLUDING CARBON FIBER INLET DUCTS FOR BRAKE COOLING DUCTS AND LOTS OF AIR COMING IN FOR OUR HEAT EXCHANGER SO OUR SUPERCHARGER DOESN'T OVERHEAT. THE HIGHEST COST OF THIS WHOLE BUMPER COVER WAS ACTUALLY MY DIGNITY AT THE BEGINNING OF THE SHOW. HEY, THAT'S LIFE.
(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO MAKE A BIG IMPROVEMENT IN THE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE LEVELS OF YOUR '03 AND NEWER GM PICK UP OR SUV? WELL YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE EFORCE SUPERCHARGER FROM EDELBROCK. THE UNIQUE DESIGN OF THIS INVERTED ROOTS STYLE SUPERCHARGER ALLOWS FOR LONGER INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER LENGTH, ALLOWING FOR MORE TORQUE, WHICH IS ESPECIALLY HELPFUL IN TOWING APPLICATIONS. AND IN HERE THE EATON TBS ROTORS RUN COOLER AND QUIETER, WHICH IMPROVES VOLUMETRIC EFFICIENCY AND PUTS MORE POWER TO THE GROUND. AND THAT WAY YOU CAN MAKE YOUR ALREADY POTENT LS ENGINE THAT MUCH MORE POWERFUL. I THINK WE COULD FIND A HOME FOR ONE OF THESE AS WELL. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCKS, SEE YOU NEXT WEEK.