2006 GMC Nitrous Install!

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE INSTALLING A NITROUS SYSTEM IN OUR 2006 GMC SIERRA. THIS WALLET FRIENDLY POWER ADDER IS ONE OF THE SIMPLEST WAYS TO GAIN MORE HORSEPOWER. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(KEVIN)>> THEN JUST HIT THE ARMING SWITCH, YOU GET IT TO PROGRAMMING MODE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. TODAY WE'VE GOT OUR LATE MODEL SIERRA IN THE SHOP. WE'RE GONNA PUMP UP THE POWER LEVEL A LITTLE BIT. NOW SO FAR WE'VE ADDED SOME WHEELS AND TIRES AND WE'VE LOWERED THIS THING DOWN TO HELP IT IN THE LOOKS DEPARTMENT.

WE'VE THROWN SOME PERFORMANCE SHOCKS AT IT TO HELP IN THE HANDLING DEPARTMENT, AND WE'VE THROWN A FEW PARTS AT THE ENGINE TO FREE UP SOME POWER. WE'VE ADDED A COLD AIR INTAKE, A TUNER, AND A FREE FLOWING DUAL EXHAUST SYSTEM TO HELP THIS TRUCK BREATHE A LITTLE BIT BETTER AND TO MAKE A FEW MORE PONIES, AND IT DEFINITELY HELPED. NOW SINCE THIS IS A STANDARD CAB, SHORT BED, TWO WHEEL DRIVE PICK UP, THERE'S NOT A WHOLE LOT OF WEIGHT TO HAUL AROUND. THAT FIVETHREE UNDER THE HOOD DOES A PRETTY GOOD JOB OF MOVING IT DOWN THE HIGHWAY, BUT GOOD IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. WE WANT TO MAKE MORE POWER BUT WE DON'T WANT TO SPEND A BUNCH OF MONEY DOING SO.

SO WE'RE NOT GONNA THROW A $7,000 OR $8,000 DOLLAR SUPERCHARGER AT THIS THING, AND WE DON'T WANT TO PULL THE SOMEWHAT LOW MILEAGE LS POWERPLANT OUT FOR A PERFORMANCE REBUILD. WE WANT TO DO SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT MORE WALLET FRIENDLY, BUT WE WANT A SUBSTANTIAL INCREASE IN POWER TOO. CHECK OUT WHAT WE'VE GOT IN MIND.

(KEVIN)>> WE'RE GONNA USE SOMETHING WE HAVEN'T USED

IN QUITE A WHILE HERE ON TRUCKS, THAT'S NATURE'S CHEMICAL SUPERCHARGER, NITROUS OXIDE.

SO WE CALLED UP HOLLEY PERFORMANCE AND THEY SENT

US THIS UNIVERSAL POWER FOGGER WET KIT. IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU SEE HERE INCLUDING THIS WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WINDOW SWITCH THAT TAKES THE PLACE OF THE MICRO SWITCHES THAT YOU TYPICALLY SEE IN A CABLE DRIVEN THROTTLE SYSTEM THAT WIRES RIGHT INTO YOUR DRIVE BY WIRE PEDAL.

NOW WHAT MAKES THIS A WET SYSTEM IS THE ADDITION OF THIS FUEL SOLENOID THAT ADDS FUEL TO COMPENSATE FOR THE EXTRA OXYGEN WITH THE NITROUS CHARGE.

IT ALSO SHIPS WITH ENOUGH JETS TO CHANGE FROM EITHER 75, 100, OR 125 HORSE. SO THIS SYSTEM IS A PRACTICAL, SAFE, AFFORDABLE, AND VERY EFFECTIVE POWER ADDER. NOW THE BOTTLE NEEDS TO BE MOUNTED AWAY FROM HEAT SOURCES AND MOVING PARTS. RIGHT HERE IS PERFECT BECAUSE IT'S PARALLEL TO THE FRAME RAIL FOR THE BEST PICK UP, AND IT KEEPS THE CYLINDER OUT OF THE CAB. NOW MAKE SURE IF YOU'RE DRILLING THROUGH THE BED FLOOR THAT YOU DON'T HIT AN OBSTRUCTIONS, CROSS BRACES, OR ESPECIALLY OUR CASE, THE FUEL HOSE OR TANK. A LITTLE BIT OF TOUCH UP PAINT WILL PREVENT THESE

HOLES FROM RUSTING SINCE WE'VE EXPOSED BARE STEEL. THEN THE BRACES GO DOWN IN PLACE AND YOU DROP IN THE TANK. WITH THE NITROUS TANK IN PLACE, NOW WE CAN DRILL THE HOLE FOR THE NITROUS LINE ITSELF, WHICH IS USING A STEP DRILL AND GENTLY BEATING THE LINE DOWN IN. NOW I'VE ALREADY PLACED A GROMMET ON THE LINE, WHICH WILL KEEP IT FROM CHAFFING. NOW IT'S A BRAIDED STEEL LINE, SO TECHNICALLY IT PROBABLY WOULD NEVER WEAR THROUGH, BUT THIS LOOKS PROFESSIONAL AND IT WON'T RATTLE. NOW BEFORE WE HIT THE ROAD WE'RE GONNA INSTALL A TONNEAU COVER, WHICH WILL KEEP THE BOTTLE

OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT. ALRIGHT, TIGHTEN THAT DOWN WHEN WE KNOW IT'S ALL CORRECT.

(RYAN)>> NEXT WE WANT TO INSTALL THE NITROUS AND FUEL SOLENOIDS. NOW THE FUEL SOLENOID NEEDS TO GO WITHIN RANGE OF THE FUEL PRESSURE TEST PORT ON THE RAIL, CAUSE THAT'S WHERE WE'RE GONNA TAP IN TO OUR FUEL SUPPLY. AND BOTH SOLENOIDS NEED TO GO WITHIN MOUNTING RANGE OF THE INTAKE TUBE CAUSE THAT'S WHERE THE NITROUS INJECTION NOZZLE IS GOING TO GO. NOW WHEN INSTALLING THE FITTINGS INTO THE SOLENOIDS, MAKE SURE YOU USE LIQUID OR TEFLON PASTE. YOU DON'T WANT TO USE THE TAPE. IT'LL RISK A SMALL PIECE OF THE TAPE GETTING STUCK IN THE SOLENOIDS OR MAYBE IN THE JETS, CAUSING A POTENTIAL PROBLEM. THAT'S NOT WHAT YOU WANT. NOW BOTH OF THE INLET FITTINGS FOR THE FUEL AND NITROUS SOLENOIDS ARE NOT YOUR STANDARD FITTINGS. THEY HAVE INLET FILTER SCREENS TO KEEP TRASH AND DEBRIS FROM GETTING PUMPED THROUGH THE SYSTEM. NOW WANT TO INSTALL OUR SOLENOIDS RIGHT ABOUT HERE ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE COWL. GETTING A DRILL IN THERE TO DRILL FROM THE BOTTOM AND CREATE A MOUNTING HOLE CAN BE KINDA DIFFICULT. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS REMOVE THIS PLASTIC CLADDING SO WE CAN DRILL FROM THE TOP. NOW REMOVING THE WIPERS AND THIS TRIM PIECE TOOK

ALL OF FIVE MINUTES.

THEN WE WERE EASILY ABLE TO GET OUR ELECTRIC DRILL IN PLACE TO DRILL A COUPLE OF MOUNTING HOLES. WE SECURED THE SOLENOID WITH SOME STAINLESS STEEL HARDWARE

SO WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT RUST ISSUES.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THIS GUY, THIS IS WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS. THIS IS THE NITROUS NOZZLE THAT GETS THREADED INTO THE AIR INLET TUBE. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT A METAL INLET TUBE THAT'S THICK ENOUGH THEY INCLUDE A PIPE TAP WHERE YOU CAN THREAD IT AND JUST THREAD THE NOZZLE RIGHT INTO THE TUBE AND YOU'RE LOCKED IN. BUT OURS IS PLASTIC, AND IT'S KINDA THIN WALLED. THEY ALSO INCLUDE THIS TWO PIECE FITTING THAT ONCE YOU DRILL A HOLE INTO THE INLET TUBE, WELL IT PINCHES THE THIN WALL AND LOCKS IT IN PLACE. IT'S THREADED INTERNALLY AND THE NITROUS NOZZLE

JUST THREADS IN AND YOU'RE READY TO GO. FIRST GOTTA DRILL A HOLE. PLACEMENT OF THE NOZZLE, WELL IT'S KINDA UP TO YOU, AS LONG AS IT'S WITHIN A FOOT OF THE THROTTLE BODY. WE'RE USING A LITTLE BIT OF RTV TO SEAL UP THE BRASS

FITTINGS AND MAKE SURE WE DON'T HAVE ANY AIR LEAKS. ONCE WE'VE SNUGGED IT UP, IT'S TIME FOR THE NOZZLE, AND AGAIN WE'RE USING A BIT OF THREAD SEALANT TO MAKE SURE NOTHING LEAKS AND MAKE SURE IT STAYS PUT. THE LOCATION WE CHOSE, WELL IT'S KINDA SUBTLE, SORTA ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE AIR INLET.

AND IT DISAPPEARS ONCE WE REINSTALL THE INLET ELBOW.

(RYAN)>> NOW THE NITROUS SUPPLY LINE WAS ROUTED RIGHT ALONG THE FACTORY FUEL LINE TO KEEP IT AWAY FROM ANY HOT OR MOVING OBJECTS. NOW LIKE WE TOLD YOU, WE ARE GONNA GET OUR FUEL SUPPLY FROM THE FUEL RAIL ITSELF. NOW BE CAREFUL WHEN TO PRESS IN THE SCHRADER VALVE.

YOU'RE GONNA LOSE A LITTLE BIT OF GAS. SO A FEW PAPER TOWELS WILL HELP SOAK IT UP. NOW AFTER DEPRESSING THE VALVE AND COMPLETELY BLEEDING OFF PRESSURE, GO AHEAD AND REMOVE THE SCHRADER VALVE COMPLETELY SO FUEL CAN FLOW INTO THE FUEL SOLENOID. TO ATTACH THE LINE, JUST BE CAREFUL.

YOU DON'T WANT TO OVER TIGHTEN OR CROSS THREAD THE FITTING. YOU DON'T WANT TO GO REPLACING THAT FACTORY FUEL RAIL.

COOL, IT'S DONE!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE DOING AN NOS NITROUS INSTALL ON OUR '06 SIERRA HERE, GIVING IT A CHEAP KICK IN THE PANTS. NOW ONE OF OUR PET PEEVES HERE AT THE TRUCKS SHOP IS A SLOPPY WIRING JOB, ESPECIALLY ON A LATE MODEL VEHICLE WHERE EVERYTHING'S KINDA WRAPPED IN ELECTRICAL TAPE OR LOOMED NICE AND NEATLY. NOTHING WORSE THAN RED POWER WIRE DRAPED ACROSS THE ENGINE BAY OR TIED TO A WIRING HARNESS. KINDA STANDS OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB, JUST GIVES IT

THAT SLOPPY APPEARANCE. SO WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW IF YOU TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF EXTRA TIME DURING THE WIRING INSTALLATION PROCESS, YOU'LL END UP WITH AN INSTALL THAT'S NOT ONLY CLEAN LOOKING, BUT ONE THAT'S DURABLE AND WON'T CAUSE YOU PROBLEMS DOWN THE ROAD.

NOW WE DIDN'T REMOVE THE PLASTIC COWL VENT COVER JUST TO DRILL HOLES TO MOUNT THE SOLENOIDS. WE ALSO WANT TO RUN OUR WIRING INSIDE THE COWL AND NOT HAVE IT OUTSIDE ON THE FIREWALL ALL EXPOSED AND

LOOKING KINDA CLUTTERED. SO WE DRILLED A HOLE IN THE FIREWALL, PASSED THE WIRES THROUGH A GROMMET, HAD TWO OF THEM TIED TOGETHER FOR THE SOLENOID GROUND, AND TWO OF THEM TIED TOGETHER FOR THE POWER FEED THAT'S COMING FROM THE NITROUS RELAY. THEN THE POWER FEED WIRE PASSES INSIDE THE COWL. ON THE OTHER SIDE WE'VE GOT THE WIRE COMING

OUT OF THE COWL DRAIN. ONCE WE PROTECT THE WIRE, WE'LL ZIP TIE IT OR SECURE IT OUT OF THE WAY OF THE WIPER ASSEMBLY, AND THAT WAY WE CAN TIE THE POWER FEED INTO THE RELAY THAT'S GONNA GET MOUNTED HERE NEAR THE BATTERY. LIKE WE TOLD YOU, IF YOU PUT IN A LITTLE BIT OF EXTRA EFFORT, YOU CAN MAKE THINGS LOOK A LITTLE BIT NICER. NOW THE NITROUS ACTIVATION RELAY SUPPLIED IN THE KIT IS GONNA GET INSTALLED RIGHT HERE AT THE FUSE BLOCK OR POWER DISTRIBUTION CENTER JUST

BECAUSE IT'S CONVENIENT. NOW ON THE GROUND SIDE OF THE RELAY, WELL WE'RE USING THIS LITTLE STAR WASHER THAT'LL BITE INTO THE PAINT AND ESTABLISH A GOOD, SOLID GROUND CONNECTION. WITH THE WIRES TUCKED OUT OF THE WAY FOR NOW, THE COVER BACK ON, WELL IT NOT ONLY LOOKS CLEAN BUT THE RELAY

AND ALL THE WIRING STAYS PROTECTED OUT OF THE ELEMENTS. NOW WE'VE GOT OUR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WINDOW SWITCH MOUNTED ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAB. WE USE THIS CONVENIENT LITTLE CUTOUT HERE ON THE FIREWALL TO DRILL A HOLE, INSTALL A GROMMET, AND PASS THE WIRES THROUGH. NOW THE RED WIRE GOES TO THE ACTIVATION RELAY WE JUST SHOWED YOU. THE TAN WIRE GOES TO A TACH SIGNAL, AND THE YELLOW WIRE GOES TO THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE. THAT WAY THE NITROUS IS ONLY ACTIVATED ABOVE A CERTAIN RPM AND AT WIDE OPEN THROTTLE.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THIS IS WHERE YOU CHOOSE THE POWER LEVEL FOR YOUR NITROUS SYSTEM. THERE'S THREE SETS OF JETS INCLUDED IN THE KIT. WE'RE GOING WITH THE 75 SHOT JUST TO TRY IT OUT. NOW THERE'S A CHART IN THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL THAT SHOWS YOU HOW TO PAIR UP THE NOZZLES, BUT THIS IS A COOL TRICK ON PUTTING THEM IN WITHOUT DROPPING THEM. JUST DROP THEM INTO THE AN FITTING ON THE LINE ITSELF, HAND TIGHTEN THEM, AND THEN ONCE YOU KNOW THEY'RE SEATED SNUG THEM UP WITH THE WRENCH, THAT'S IT! NOW INSIDE THE CAB OUR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE WINDOW SWITCH IS MOUNTED. WE FIGURED OUT A WAY TO DO IT TO WHERE WE DON'T HAVE TO HACK ANYTHING UP ON THE DASH BECAUSE LETS FACE IT, WE MAY NOT ALWAYS OWN THIS TRUCK. AND WHOEVER WANTS IT NEXT, WELL THEY MAY NOT WANT A NITROUS ARMING SWITCH CARVED INTO THE DASHBOARD. SO WE'VE GOT A REALLY NICE LOCATION HERE THAT WE DIDN'T HAVE TO CUT UP. AND WE'VE ALSO, THE ARMING SWITCH IS PINCHED IN BETWEEN ONE OF THE EARS ON THE WINDOW SWITCH AND IT'S PLACED REALLY NICELY IN THIS LITTLE CUBBY HOLE HERE.

AND THE DASH BEZEL, WELL IT JUST CLAMPS IT AROUND, PINCHES IT IN PLACE TO WHERE IT'S VISIBLE FROM A DRIVER'S POSITION AND WE CAN GET TO THE PROGRAMMING EASILY.

JUST HIT THE ARMING SWITCH, AND YOU CAN GET INTO THE PROGRAMMING MODE BY HITTING BOTH STAGE BUTTONS AND WAITING FOR THE SETUP TO BLINK. THIS SHOWS THAT THE FIRST STAGE IS GOING TO COME IN AT 3,000 RPM AND IT'S GONNA CUT OFF AT 5,500 RPM,

OR WHICHEVER INCREMENT, WHICHEVER RPM YOU WANT TO PROGRAM. NOW THIS UNIT IS CAPABLE OF A SECOND STAGE.

YOU CAN SET THE RPM WHERE IT KICKS IN AS WELL AS WHEN THE SECOND STAGE DISARMS OR SHUTS OFF. IT'S ALSO GOT A PROGRAMMABLE SHIFT LIGHT TO LET YOU KNOW WHEN, WELL YOU NEED TO SHIFT. AND WE'VE GOT A RISING VOLTAGE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR.

THE UNIT LETS US KNOW THAT AND IT TRIPS THE NITROUS AT THREE POINT FOUR VOLTS. THE DOUBLE ZERO CODE MEANS WE'VE GOT ONE COIL PACK PER CYLINDER AND WE'RE DONE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE FINISHING UP OUR NITROUS INSTALL. NOW THERE WAS TWO MORE CONNECTIONS WE NEEDED TO MAKE TO GET THIS NITROUS SYSTEM FUNCTIONAL. NOW THE COMPUTER MODULE NEEDS TO SEE A THROTTLE POSITION SIGNAL AND SOME SORT OF TACH FEED. NOW THE TACH FEED COMES FROM THIS GREEN WIRE ON THE COIL ON PLUG IGNITION, AND THE THROTTLE POSITION SIGNAL COMES FROM THIS PURPLE WIRE COMING FROM THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE. NOW CHECK THIS OUT. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH POWER APPLIED AND AT IDLE WE'VE GOT ABOUT ONE POINT ONE VOLTS. AND WITH IT FLOORED IT GOES UP TO ABOUT THREE AND A HALF VOLTS.

ALRIGHT, YOU CAN KILL IT. NOW THERE'S TWO TYPES OF THROTTLE POSITION SENSORS. THE RISING VOLTAGE SENSOR LIKE WE'VE GOT, AND A FALLING VOLTAGE SENSOR, WHICH MEANS THAT THE VOLTAGE DECREASES AS THE THROTTLE'S DEPRESSED. NOW THE SYSTEM CAN HANDLE EITHER ONE, YOU'VE JUST GOT TO IDENTIFY WHICH ONE YOU HAVE.

ALRIGHT, WITH ALL THE PLASTIC AND COVERS BACK IN PLACE, WE'LL LET YOU BE THE JUDGE, BUT WE THINK THIS TURNED OUT TO BE A PRETTY CLEAN INSTALLATION, WITH THE ONLY THING VISIBLE BEING OUR NITROUS SOLENOIDS AND OUR STAINLESS STEEL LINES. NOW WE COULD HAVE HIDDEN THESE AS WELL, BUT THAT'S

NOT WHAT THIS TRUCK IS ABOUT. WE JUST WANTED A NICE, CLEAN, FACTORY LOOKING APPEARANCE. NOW ALL THE WIRES ARE HIDDEN, AND BY SPENDING A LITTLE EXTRA TIME BEING NEAT AND CAREFUL, WELL IT NOT ONLY LOOKS GOOD BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY WE'RE NOT GONNA HAVE ANY WIRING ISSUES DOWN THE ROAD.

(KEVIN)>> WE'RE GONNA DO ONE MORE THING TO INCREASE THE PERFORMANCE POTENTIAL OF THIS TRUCK, WHETHER WE'RE ON THE BOTTLE OR NOT, AND THAT IS FREE UP THE EXHAUST BY INSTALLING A SET OF HEADERS. THESE CAST MANIFOLDS HAVE BEEN ON THE TRUCK SINCE IT WAS NEW IN 2006 AND THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST BUILT UP. SO WE'RE GONNA USE WD 40'S NEW RUST RELEASE PENETRANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THESE FASTENERS COME OFF EASILY, WE DON'T DO ANY DAMAGE. SINCE THESE ARE DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR THE FACTORY MANIFOLDS THERE'S NO CUTTING OR DRILLING NECESSARY. SO IT'S A QUICK INSTALLATION. AND UNLIKE A LATE MODEL F-150 WHERE THE ENGINE IS

BURIED UNDER THE DASH, THESE MANIFOLDS ARE A CAKE WALK TO REMOVE. THIS IS A STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLD AND IT DOES THE JOB FOR A STOCK ENGINE. BUT LETS FACE IT, THIS IS UGLY, AND WE CAN DO SOME IMPROVEMENTS ON THE DESIGN. THE FIRST THING THAT YOU NOTICE IS THAT THE PRIMARY TUBES ALL GO DOWN INTO ONE COMMON TUBE ON THE BOTTOM AND COLLECT DOWN HERE. HERE'S ANOTHER THING TO PAY ATTENTION TO. IT'S GOT A SACRIFICIAL GASKET HERE AND IT'S PROBABLY NOT LIKELY THAT IT'S GONNA FAIL, BUT THAT'S A POTENTIAL FOR FAILURE.

SO CAN WE DO BETTER, OF COURSE WE CAN, CHECK THESE OUT. THIS IS THE NEW SCAVENGER SERIES ELITE HEADER FROM FLOWMASTER. THEY'VE GOT A THICK THREEEIGHTHS INCH FLANGE,

16 GAUGE MANDREL BENT PRIMARY TUBES, AND THEY'RE OBVIOUSLY CERAMIC COATED. BUT LOOK A LITTLE DEEPER.

THE PRIMARY TUBES COLLECT RIGHT NEAR THE OUTLET FOR BETTER FLOW AND BETTER SCAVENGING, BUT THE IMPORTANT THING IS THIS. IT IS A GASKETLESS CONNECTION, IT'S A BALL SOCKET CONNECTION THAT ALMOST NEVER FAILS. AND WE PLAY OUR CARDS RIGHT WE MIGHT BE ABLE TO REUSE THE FACTORY EXHAUST MANIFOLD GASKETS. SINCE WE'RE REUSING THE FACTORY STEEL HARDWARE GOING BACK INTO ALUMINUM HEADS, A LITTLE BIT OF

ANTISEIZE IS IN ORDER. AND SINCE OUR MULTILAYERED OE GASKETS WERE UNDAMAGED, WE WERE ABLE TO USE THEM AGAIN. THAT'S A BONUS.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

NOW WE'VE GOT OUR NITROUS INSTALLATION COMPLETE. WE'VE GOT THE HEADERS THROWN ON, AND WE'VE GOT OURSELVES A CLEAN LITTLE STREET TRUCK THAT WE CAN TAKE TO THE DRAG STRIP EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE AND HAVE A LOT OF FUN WITH. NOW WITH THE MILD MODIFICATIONS WE'VE CHOSEN FOR THIS PICK UP, WELL IT STILL RETAINS ITS USEFUL TRUCK STATUS. WE HAVEN'T DONE ANYTHING TO IT TO TAKE AWAY FROM WHAT IT IS. PLUS IT'LL MAKE A GREAT DAILY DRIVER. NOW DURING THE NITROUS INSTALLATION WE SHOWED YOU A FEW TIPS AND TRICKS ON WIRING, BUT WE WANT TO SHOW YOU ONE MORE. NOW WHEN PASSING WIRES THROUGH SHEET METAL, YOU PROBABLY ALREADY KNOW TO USE A GROMMET, BUT MOST OF THE COMMONLY AVAILABLE GROMMETS HAVE KIND OF A LARGE OPENING. IF YOU'RE ONLY PASSING TWO OR THREE WIRES THROUGH THEM, WELL IT LEAVES PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE ELEMENTS TO PASS THROUGH TO THE INTERIOR OF THE VEHICLE. SO ONE THING WE LIKE TO DO IS PASS THE WIRES THROUGH A PIECE OF VACUUM TUBING FIRST TO HELP TAKE UP ANY VACANCY. BUT IT'S STILL NOT COMPLETELY SEALED. HERE'S THE WAY TO FIX THAT. SIMPLY INSTALL A COUPLE OF ORINGS THAT'LL FIT SNUG AROUND THE VACUUM TUBE. SPACED ABOUT A GROMMET'S WIDTH APART. I DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PERFECT. THEN TAKE A SMALL PIECE OF HEAT SHRINK TUBING, SLIDE IT OVER EVERYTHING.

THAT'LL GIVE YOU GOOD POSITIVE RETENTION ONCE

YOU SLIDE IT THROUGH THE GROMMET. A LITTLE BIT OF SPRAY LUBE JUST HELPS IT PASS THROUGH THE GROMMET. THERE YOU GO, A NICE TIGHT FITTING SEAL THAT'LL

KEEP THE ELEMENTS OUT.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A WAY TO VIRTUALLY

ELIMINATE THE BACK PRESSURE IN YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM AT A SECOND'S NOTICE, CHECK OUT THIS EXHAUST CUTOUT FROM MISTER GASKET. NOW WE PUT A LITTLE LIGHT IN HERE SO YOU COULD SEE THE VALVE AS IT'S ACTUATED.

AND IT'S VERY SIMPLE, WHICH MEANS IT'S VERY RELIABLE. NOW WITH THE CAST METAL CONSTRUCTION YOU CAN EITHER BRAZE YOUR EXHAUST SYSTEM TOGETHER OR JUST

USE A SET OF CLAMPS. IT IS CABLE DRIVEN AND IT'S A MECHANICAL ACTUATOR. NOTHING ELECTRONIC, NO WIRES TO MELT IF THEY COME INTO CONTACT WITH THE EXHAUST. YOU CAN GET THESE EXHAUST CUTOUTS WHEREVER MISTER GASKET PRODUCTS ARE SOLD.

AND BY THE WAY, THESE ARE FOR TRACK USE ONLY, WINK, WINK! NOW IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A GREAT WINCH FOR A GREAT PRICE CHECK OUT THE VR 8,000 FROM WARN. THIS IS EXCELLENT FOR LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS, SUV'S, AND JEEPS WITH A FULL 8,000 POUND CAPACITY. IT'S GOT A FAST LINE SPEED WITH THREE STAGE PLANETARY GEARS FOR LONG LIKE, RELIABILITY, AND SMOOTH ACTION. AND COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU SEE HERE INCLUDING THE REMOTE, FAIRLEAD, AND HOOK, PLUG THE CONTROL BOX FOR YOUR REMOTE CONTROL. PLUS THIS IS NOT GONNA ADD A BUNCH OF UNNECESSARY NOSE WEIGHT ONTO A LIGHT DUTY VEHICLE'S FRONT END. AND IT SHIPS WITH A WARRANTY, FULL LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY. FOR MORE DETAILS AND MORE PRODUCT INFORMATION GO TO WARN DOT COM. THIS IS WD 40'S NEW SPECIALIST PRODUCT LINE THAT INCLUDES A FAST ACTING PENETRATING SPRAY, A SILICONE SPRAY, A LITHIUM GREASE, AND A LEAVE ON CORROSION INHIBITOR, AS WELL AS THIS RUST REMOVER SOAK. NOW EACH OF THESE PRODUCTS IS PRETTY SELF EXPLANATORY AND THEY WORK GREAT, BUT ONE I'M PARTICULARLY FOND OF IS THIS CORROSION AND INHIBITOR SPRAY, WHICH WHEN SPRAYED ON BARE STEEL WILL STOP RUST FOR UP TO TWO YEARS.

THE RUST REMOVER SOAK IS BIODEGRADABLE, SO IT'S SAFE FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND THE REST OF THE PRODUCTS ARE 50 STATE LEGAL. SO IF YOU'RE IN A PROFESSIONAL SHOP YOU CAN USE THESE IF YOUR VLC'S ARE BEING TRACKED.

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THESE PRODUCTS OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW CHECK OUT POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.