Project NighTrain - Boxing The Frame

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE BACK ON PROJECT NIGHTRAIN. RYAN'S MAKING ROOM IN OUR '87 CHEVY 1500 FOR A DURAMAX DIESEL AND ALLISON TRANSMISSION. HE'S CUTTING OUT THE TRANS TUNNEL, WELDING IN NEW ENGINE MOUNTS, AND PROVING THAT THIS SIX POINT SIX LITER MONSTER CAN FIT UNDER A STOCK HOOD. THEN HE'S BOXING THE FRAME FOR EXTRA STRENGTH. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'RE GONNA MAKE A PERMANENT HOME IN OUR 1987 CHEVY 1500 FOR OUR SWAPPED IN SIX POINT SIX LITER LBZ DURAMAX DIESEL AND SIX SPEED ALLISON AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. NOW WHEN WE HAD THIS THING IN THE SHOP LAST WE WERE IN THE TEST FIT STAGE. I'D MADE SOME ROOM IN THE ENGINE BAY, CLEANED THINGS UP A LITTLE BIT, CUT A CHUNK IN THE CAST ALUMINUM OIL PAN, AND SET THE ENGINE AS FAR DOWN INTO THE ENGINE BAY AS IT WOULD GO. BUT WE STILL HAD A FEW PARTS ON TOP OF THE ENGINE

STICKING OUT ABOVE THE HOOD BY A FEW INCHES.

AND SINCE THEN I'VE HAD A CHANCE TO GET SOME WORK DONE. NOW TO SEAL UP THE PAN I JUST USED A PIECE OF EIGHTH INCH ALUMINUM PLATE THAT I BENT AND OBVIOUSLY TRIMMED TO FIT. NOW WELDING IT UP WASN'T THAT MUCH FUN. I KEPT FIGHTING IMPURITIES OR WHATEVER IN THE CAST ALUMINUM THAT KEPT FLOATING TO THE SURFACE.

BUT I GOT IT DONE, IT TURNED OUT PRETTY GOOD.

AND BEFORE I INSTALLED IT I WENT AHEAD AND LEAK TESTED IT AND CHECKED THE PAN RAILS FOR STRAIGHTNESS.

BOTH OF THOSE THINGS CHECKED OUT, SO I WENT AHEAD AND SEALED THINGS UP AND INSTALLED THE UPPER AND LOWER PAN. NOW I'M SURE SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING IF WE'VE EFFECTED ENGINE OIL CAPACITY BY REMOVING A SMALL SECTION FROM THE FRONT OF THE PAN. AND I'M SURE WE DID TO A SMALL EXTENT, BUT PROBABLY LESS THAN A QUART. NOW IN ADDITION TO THE EXTRA CLEARANCE WE GAINED, THERE'S ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THIS AS WELL. WHEN DOING AN OIL CHANGE, WELL THE DRAIN PLUG IS IN THIS REAR SECTION OF THE PAN, AND ALL THE OLD OIL WILL DRAIN AWAY. BUT WHATEVER'S TRAPPED IN THE FRONT OF HERE IS GOING TO GET STUCK AND MIXED WITH YOUR FRESH OIL. SO HOPEFULLY WE'VE ELIMINATED SOME OF THAT

OLD OIL AND NEW OIL PROBLEM. NOW TO GET THE OIL PAN ON AND OFF WE HAD TO GET ACCESS TO A COUPLE OF THE BOLTS, MEANING WE HAD TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL OR FLEX PLATE. NOW GM USES SINGLE USE TORQUE TO YIELD FASTENERS, AND WE REPLACE THEM WITH QUALITY ARP 12 POINT FASTENERS THAT ARE REUSABLE. NOW I'VE GONE AHEAD AND MADE UP SOME ENGINE MOUNTS USING HEAVY WALL RECTANGULAR TUBING AND SOME QUARTER INCH PLATE. AND THEY WORK WITH THE FACTORY DURAMAX ENGINE ISOLATORS. I'VE GOT THEM TACKED INTO POSITION SO I CAN DROP THE ENGINE IN PLACE AND HANG THE TRANSMISSION OFF THE BACK TO SEE HOW MUCH OF THE TRANSMISSION TUNNEL I NEEDED TO CUT, WHICH WAS A PRETTY BIG PIECE. BUT IT'S A PRETTY BIG TRANSMISSION THAT'S GOING IN THERE, AND AT LEAST WE CAN USE THIS PIECE TO SCAB

THE FLOOR BACK TOGETHER.

AND WITH A GIANT HOLE CUT IN THE CAB FLOOR, YOU CAN SEE HOW EASY IT WOULD BE TO GET TO ALL THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS. IN FACT I MAY MAKE THIS PANEL REMOVABLE SO I CAN DO JUST THAT. THAT'S PRETTY CLOSE, I CAN START THREADING BOLTS IN.

NOW IF YOU'RE DOING A DIESEL SWAP LIKE THIS AT HOME AND YOU DON'T WANT TO CUT UP THE FACTORY FLOOR LIKE WE DID, WELL YOU COULD ALWAYS DO A BODY LIFT. THAT WAY YOU DON'T HAVE TO CUT UP ANY FACTORY SHEET METAL. AND IF OUR TRUCK HAD BEEN A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, THAT'S PROBABLY THE ROUTE WE WOULD HAVE TAKEN. NOW WITH THE TRANSMISSION JACKED UP INTO POSITION, WE CAN SECURE IT WITH A FEW BOLTS. AND IT'S A GOOD THING THEY'RE EASY TO GET TO. OH, OF COURSE! ALRIGHT, THAT'S PLENTY FOR MOCK UP.

ALRIGHT, FOR NOW, I'M USING THIS PIECE OF OLD TWO BY TWO STEEL TO HOLD THE TRANSMISSION UP WHILE I MAKE AN ACTUAL CROSS MEMBER. NOW FOR THE ENDS OF THE CROSS MEMBER I'M USING SOME THREE INCH THREESIXTEENTHS ANGLE IRON. AND WHEN DESIGNING A CROSS MEMBER FOR A PROJECT LIKE THIS THIS EARLY ON IN THE PROCESS, KEEP IN MIND THAT THERE'S GOING TO BE A GIANT EXHAUST SYSTEM RUNNING IN BETWEEN THE TRANSMISSION AND THE FRAME RAIL. SO MAKE SURE YOU ACCOUNT FOR THAT.

THE PLATE I MADE.

ALRIGHT, AND THESE CROSS BARS ON EITHER SIDE OF THAT PAD AND WELD TO THE ANGLE IRON. ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A SOCKET IN THERE, MAKE SURE IT'S EVEN ON BOTH SIDES, ALRIGHT, GRAB THE WELDER. WHOO, THAT WAS A LITTLE WARM BELIEVE IT OR NOT! ALWAYS WEAR WELDING PROTECTION.

[ welder crackling ]

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, WITH THE TRANSMISSION POSITION PRETTY MUCH LOCKED IN, WE

CAN TAKE A LOOK AT SOME OF THE OTHER CLEARANCE, LIKE

IN BETWEEN THE MODIFIED ALUMINUM OIL PAN AND THIS STEERING LINKAGE. WE'VE GOT PLENTY OF ROOM. WHICH TELLS ME THAT IF I NEED TO, I CAN COME IN AND CUT DOWN THE CUSTOM ENGINE MOUNTS TO ALLOW THE ENGINE TO SIT A LITTLE BIT LOWER IN THE ENGINE BAY. MAYBE BY UP TO A HALF AN INCH OR SO, AND STILL HAVE THE CLEARANCE WE NEED. BUT BEFORE WE DO ANYTHING, I'M GONNA SET THE TRUCK DOWN ON THE GROUND SO WE CAN TAKE A LOOK AT THINGS. NOW UP TOP THINGS ARE LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. OH, AND FOR YOU GUYS THAT ARE CURIOUS ON WHETHER OR NOT THE FRONT OF THIS TRUCK WOULD GET FLATTENED BY THE IMMENSE WEIGHT OF OUR 1,300 POUND DIESEL ENGINE AND HEAVY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, WELL CHECK IT OUT. THIS THING IS ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION RIGHT NOW. AND WHILE IT COULD CERTAINLY USE SOME FIRMER SHOCKS, IT'S NOT CRUSHING THE STOCK FRONT SUSPENSION, AND IS PROBABLY SITTING ABOUT WHERE THE FACTORY RIDE HEIGHT WAS. THIS THING'S TURNING OUT BETTER THAN I THOUGHT IT WOULD. ALRIGHT, TIME FOR THE MOMENT OF TRUTH.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK, WE'LL PROVE YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO A BODY LIFT TO MAKE

THIS POWER PLANT FIT. AND LATER WE'LL GET OUR FRAME BOXED WHERE IT COUNTS, STAY TUNED!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH, WHERE WE'VE GOT PROJECT NIGHTRAIN IN THE SHOP

WELDING IN ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS FOR OUR DURAMAX DIESEL AND ALLISON AUTOMATIC. NOW WITH OUR MODIFIED OIL PAN AND TRANSMISSION TUNNEL WE'VE GOT THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION SITTING WHERE WE WANT IT, NICE AND LOW IN THE TRUCK. AND ALL THE CLEARANCE LOOK PRETTY GOOD UNDERNEATH. HOWEVER UP TOP THERE IS A COUPLE OF THINGS WE'VE GOT TO DEAL WITH, LIKE THE FUEL FILTER. NOW FOR NOW I'VE GOT TO TEMPORARILY RELOCATE IT TO THE FORWARD BOLT HOLE IN AN EFFORT TO TRY TO KEEP THE FACTORY A/C BOX. AND ON THE OTHER SIDE THERE'S NO WAY I'M GONNA GET A VACUUM BRAKE BOOSTER TO FIT. IT'S SIMPLY TOO LARGE. WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS MODIFY A LATE MODEL CHEVY HYDROBOOST SYSTEM. IT SIMPLY USES HYDRAULIC PRESSURE FROM THE POWER STEERING PUMP TO ASSIST IN THE APPLICATION OF THE BRAKES INSTEAD OF VACUUM. AND OTHER THAN THAT WE'RE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE. AND AFTER REMOVING A COUPLE OF KINDA UNNECESSARY PARTS FROM THE TOP OF THE ENGINE AND GOING WITH SOME CUSTOM PLUMBING, WE'VE ACTUALLY ACHIEVED A PRETTY LOW PROFILE. NOW COMMON BELIEF WHEN DOING AN ENGINE SWAP IN THIS BODY STYLE TRUCK IS YOU'VE GOT TWO OPTIONS FOR HOOD CLEARANCE, EITHER A CUSTOM HOOD OR A BODY LIFT. AND IF THIS WAS A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK WE'D GO WITH A BODY LIFT AND BE DONE WITH IT.

BUT IT'S NOT, IT'S A TWO WHEEL DRIVE STREET TRUCK AND WE WANT A NICE, CLEAN LOOK. NOW WITH THE MODIFIED OIL PAN I DON'T EVEN THINK WE NEED A CUSTOM HOOD. I'M SURE WE CAN GET AWAY WITH A SMALL COWL HOOD. WE MIGHT EVEN BE ABLE TO FIT THE STOCKER BACK ON HERE.

LET'S GIVE IT A SHOT.

ALRIGHT, READY! ALRIGHT, TIME FOR THE MOMENT OF TRUTH, AND IT

LOOKS LIKE THE HOOD BARELY CLEARS. WE'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF ROOM OVER TOP OF THE ALTERNATOR AND THIS FITTING. BUT IF WE WANTED TO RUN THE STOCK HOOD, WE COULD JUST CUT ANOTHER HALF INCH OR SO OUT OF THE ENGINE MOUNTS, LOWER THE ENGINE DOWN THAT MUCH, AND WE'D BE GOLD. BUT LIKE WE MENTIONED BEFORE, THIS HOOD NEEDS SOME PAINT WORK AND WE WANT TO RUN A COWL HOOD JUST FOR THE MORE AGGRESSIVE LOOKS. BUT IF YOU DID THIS ENGINE SWAP, KEPT THE STOCK HOOD AND THE STOCK RIDE HEIGHT, YOU'VE GOT ONE HECK OF A SLEEPER ON YOUR HANDS. NOW TO BURN IN OUR HOMEMADE ENGINE MOUNTS I'M FIRING UP OUR 220 VOLT WELDER. AND THE DRIVER'S SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE ENGINE MOUNTS BOTH HANG BEHIND THE CROSS MEMBER. SO ON THE PASSENGER SIDE I'M JUST FORCING THE PLATE

TO GO WHERE I WANT IT AND THEN WELDING IT UP. THE DRIVER'S SIDE, I'LL EVENTUALLY TIE IT INTO THE FRAME RAIL THAT'S GONNA GET PLATED.

PERMANENT, NOW WITH THE ENGINE MOUNTS FULLY WELDED

IN, WE CAN MOVE ON TO BOXING IN THIS OPEN CCHANNEL FRAME. NOW MOST OF THE CHASSIS RIGIDITY COMES FROM THIS VERTICAL PORTION. AND IF WE CAN ADD A SECOND VERTICAL PLATE TO THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME, WE CAN INCREASE THE STIFFNESS A FAIR AMOUNT.

STEP ONE IS MAKING A TEMPLATE. AND SINCE I ONLY WANT TO DO A SMALL SECTION OF THE FRAME RAIL AT A TIME, I'M JUST USING THREE PIECES OF TEMPLATE CARDBOARD WE HAD LAYING AROUND. CARDBOARD ANY THICKER IS JUST TOO DIFFICULT TO WORK WITH, AND CARDBOARD ANY THINNER IS BASICALLY PAPER.

AND WITH THE TEMPLATE CUT OUT, NOW'S A GOOD TIME TO

DOUBLE CHECK ITS FITMENT. YOU DON'T WANT TO TRANSFER THIS TO METAL AND NOT HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE SMALL ADJUSTMENTS, WHICH ARE A LOT EASIER TO DO RIGHT NOW.

CUT IT OFF RIGHT HERE NICE AND SQUARE, AND A LITTLE MORE TRIMMING ALONG THIS BOTTOM EDGE.

NOW I'M USING EIGHTH INCH PLATE TO REINFORCE THE FRAME RAILS. AND TO CUT IT OUT YOU CAN USE ANY NUMBER OF METHODS. YOU CAN USE A BAND SAW OR A PLASMA CUTTER, BUT I LIKE USING A CUTOFF WHEEL ON OUR ANGLE GRINDER BECAUSE I GET A NICE, CLEAN CUT THAT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE DRESSED LATER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL INSTALL OUR NEW FUEL TANK, STICK AROUND!

(RYAN)>> THEN WE CAN JACK THE TANK BACK INTO POSITION AND ATTACH IT TO THE FRAME RAILS.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP, WHERE WE'RE IN THE MIDDLE OF PLATING THE FRAME RAILS ON OUR '87 CHEVY 1500. NOW BEFORE I PLATE THE FRAME RAILS, I'VE GOT TO WELD THE NUTS TO THE TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER TO THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME. OTHERWISE THEY WOULDN'T BE ACCESSIBLE ONCE THE FRAME IS PLATED. AND TO GIVE MYSELF SOME CLEAN METAL TO WORK WITH, I'M KNOCKING OFF ANY RUST OR PAINT ON THE EDGES OF THE CCHANNEL FRAME. I DO THAT SIMPLY USING A FLAT WHEEL ON OUR FOUR AND A HALF INCH ANGLE GRINDER. THEN I CAN START POSITIONING THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE AND WELDING IT INTO PLACE. NOW THE FRAME ISN'T STRAIGHT, OR SQUARE, OR EVEN, AND THIS FLAT PIECE OF STEEL IS GONNA HAVE TO BE CONTOURED TO MATCH THE FRAME RAIL. IT'S NOTHING DRASTIC BUT IT IS GONNA HAVE TO BE MESSAGED INTO POSITION. NOW WHAT I'M BASICALLY TRYING TO DO IS TO CREATE A SMALL GAP IN BETWEEN THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE AND THE FRAME. THAT'LL GIVE ME A GOOD 90 DEGREE SHELF TO LAY THE WELD ON, AND IT WON'T LEAVE ME A BUNCH OF EXCESS WELD TO GRIND OFF. NOW LUCKILY THE EIGHTH INCH PLATE IS PRETTY EASY TO WORK WITH. AND A COUPLE OF LARGE LOCKING PLIERS OR VICE GRIPS CAN HELP YOU GET THINGS INTO POSITION.

PERSUADE THAT A LITTLE BIT WITH A HAMMER.

JUST A LITTLE FINE TUNING.

THAT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. LITTLE GAP THERE BUT THAT'S OKAY. EVERYTHING ELSE LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. AND THAT SMALL GAP CAN BE CLOSED UP PRETTY EASILY

WITH A FEW TAPS FROM A HAMMER.

THEN WE CAN GET TO WORK FULLY WELDING THIS PLATE IN.

ALRIGHT, NOW WITH THIS SECTION OF FRAME RAIL FULLY WELDED, ALL I'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS COME IN HERE AND GRIND THESE WELDS DOWN SMOOTH SO IT

LOOKS A LITTLE NICER. BUT I'VE OBVIOUSLY GOT A LOT MORE WORK TO DO. BUT I'M NOT GONNA PLATE EACH FRAME RAIL FROM BUMPER TO BUMPER. THERE'S NO POINT IN THAT. ALL WE REALLY WANT TO DO IS STIFFEN UP THE CHASSIS

IN BETWEEN WHERE THE ENGINE IS AND WHERE THE REAR AXLE IS CAUSE THAT'S WHAT'S TRYING TO TWIST UNDER POWER. NOW IF YOU PLATED THE FRAME RAILS IN BETWEEN THE

CROSS MEMBER AND THE FRONT BUMPER, ALL YOU'RE DOING IS STIFFENING UP THE CRUMPLE ZONES. IF YOU GOT INTO A FRONT END COLLISION, INSTEAD OF THIS AREA DEFORMING AND ABSORBING THE IMPACT, IT'S JUST GONNA TRANSFER MORE OF THE LOAD BACK INTO THE REST OF THE VEHICLE. CLEARLY NOT WHAT YOU WANT. WELL I'M GONNA TAKE A BREAK FROM CUTTING AND WELDING FOR NOW CAUSE WE'VE GOT A FUEL TANK TO THROW IN THIS TRUCK. NOW THE STOCK FUEL TANK IN OUR TRUCK IS MADE FROM STEEL. THAT'S WHY IT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST ON IT. NOW FROM THE FACTORY THESE THINGS WERE INSTALLED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL JUST BEHIND THE

DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. MAYBE NOT THE BEST SPOT FOR A TANK FULL OF GASOLINE. NOW WE COULD GET THIS THING TO WORK WITH OUR DIESEL SETUP JUST BY TAKING OUT THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP AND INSTALLING A SIMPLE FUEL FEED LINE. BUT WE WANTED TO UPGRADE TO THIS TANK WE PICKED UP FROM BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. ONE, IT'S ALUMINUM, IT LOOKS GOOD, AND IT'LL NEVER RUST. AND TWO, WELL WITH OUR DIESEL SWAP WE PUT A LOT OF EXTRA WEIGHT OVER THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK. SO IT'LL BE NICE TO OFFSET SOME OF THAT WITH THIS TANK, WHICH GETS INSTALLED BEHIND THE REAR AXLE. HOPEFULLY WE'LL GET A LITTLE BIT BETTER TRACTION WITH MORE WEIGHT OVER THE REAR TIRES. NOW THIS THING HOLDS 19 GALLONS, IT'S BAFFLED, TAKES A STANDARD SENDING UNIT, AND IT'S GONNA GET FILLED THROUGH A HOLE WE CUT IN THE BED FLOOR.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'RE DOING AWAY WITH THE OLD GAS TANK AND ADDING A NEW DIESEL TANK BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS IN THE BACK.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP WHERE WE'RE ABOUT TO INSTALL A NEW ALUMINUM FUEL TANK IN

PROJECT NIGHTRAIN. BUT BEFORE WE CAN BOLT IT IN PLACE WE'VE GOT TO CUT OUT THE ORIGINAL SPARE TIRE CROSS MEMBER. NOW WE'VE SHOWN YOU THIS BEFORE, BUT IT'S WORTH SHOWING AGAIN. THAT'S BECAUSE IT'S A REALLY EFFECTIVE METHOD OF REMOVING THE STUBBORN PRESSED IN FACTORY RIVETS. NOW USING A CUT OFF WHEEL ON OUR ANGLE GRINDER I'M JUST MAKING A SMALL "X" PATTERN IN THE RIVET HEAD. SOMETIMES LARGER RIVETS TAKE A LITTLE EXTRA CUT, BUT WITH A COUPLE OF SLICES IN THE RIVET HEAD IT ALLOWS AN AIR CHISEL TO KNOCK WHAT'S LEFT OF THE RIVET HEAD RIGHT OFF. THEN YOU CAN USE A HAMMER AND PUNCH TO KNOCK THE RIVET OUT, OR A DIFFERENT BIT ON THE AIR HAMMER TO GET THE SAME THING DONE. THIS METHOD IS A LITTLE NOISY, BUT SURE IS EFFECTIVE. THEN WE CAN JACK THE NEW FUEL TANK INTO POSITION AND USE THE SUPPLIED MOUNTING STRIPS TO HELP

LOCATE THE HOLES WE'RE GONNA DRILL IN THE FLANGE,

BOTH ON THE TANK AND ON THE FRAME RAIL. A QUICK MEASUREMENT VERIFIES THAT WE'VE GOT OUR TANK SQUARE. THEN WE CAN LOWER IT OUT OF THE WAY SO WE CAN DRILL ON IT ON A BENCH TOP. AND AFTER DRILLING AN EIGHTH INCH PILOT HOLE, I'M USING A STEP BIT TO OPENING IT UP TO THE CORRECT SIZE. THEN I'M USING THE MOUNTING STRIP THAT'S BEEN BENT TO MATCH THE MOUNTING FLANGE TO MARK THE OTHER TWO HOLES, AGAIN USING AN EIGHTH INCH PILOT HOLE AND A STEP BIT. I'M ALSO USING THE STEP BIT TO KINDA DEBURR THE HOLE ON BOTH SIDES.

THE SAME PROCESS IS USED ON THE FRAME RAIL.

THEN WE CAN JACK THE TANK BACK INTO POSITION, AND ATTACH IT TO THE FRAME RAILS USING OUR FRESHLY

PAINTED MOUNTING STRIPS.

ALRIGHT, NOW WITH OUR NEW ALUMINUM FUEL TANK BOLTED INTO POSITION, ALL WE'VE GOT LEFT TO DO IS A COUPLE OF SMALL THINGS TO FINISH UP THE INSTALLATION, LIKE ADD OUR FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT, CUT A HOLE IN THE BED FLOOR FOR THE FILLER NECK, AND ADD OUR FUEL FILL CAP. ALL STUFF THAT CAME FROM BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS. BUT I'LL GET TO THAT STUFF LATER, FOR NOW I'VE GOT A COUPLE OF FRAME RAILS THAT I NEED TO FINISH PLATING. NOW IF YOU GUYS ARE LOOKING TO ADD SOME SERIOUSLY BRIGHT LIGHTS TO THE FRONT END OF YOUR PICK UP TRUCK OR SUV, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THESE ARB INTENSITY NEXT GENERATION DRIVING LIGHTS. IT'S HIGH PRESSURE CAST ALUMINUM HOUSING HAS BEEN

POWDER COATED AND IT ACTS LIKE A HEAT SINK. IT'S GOT AN UNBREAKABLE POLY CARBONATE LENS AND THE 32 LED'S PUT OUT A DAY LIGHT TYPE COLOR

TEMPERATURE, AND PRODUCES ALMOST 7,000 LUMENS WHILE DRAWING JUST OVER SIX AMPS. THE LIGHTS COME WITH AN ADJUSTABLE STAINLESS STEEL MOUNTING BASE AND THEY'RE AVAILABLE IN A 10 DEGREE SPOT LIGHT OR A 20 DEGREE FLOOD LIGHT. NOW IF YOU'RE RESTORING AN OLDER CHEVY PICK UP, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT SOME OF THE INTERIOR PIECES AVAILABLE FROM BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS. THIS IS A NEW PRODUCT.

IT'S A STAINLESS STEEL TRIMMED SPEAKER COVER WITH ASH TRAY FOR '47 TO '53 CHEVY OR GMC'S. SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT NEWER IS THIS REPRODUCTION INSTRUMENT BEZEL FOR '69 TO '72 PICK UPS. AND IT'S GOT THE TEXTURED BLACK AND CHROME FINISH. SO IF YOU'VE GOT AN OLDER GM PICK UP YOU'RE WORKING ON, CHECK OUT BROTHERS TRUCK PARTS. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH,

SEE YOU NEXT TIME.