6L80/4L80 Transmission Swap on a 2010 Silverado

(ANNOUNCER)>> BEFORE YOU PUT BIG POWER TO ANY

VEIGHT YOU'VE GOT TO UPGRADE THE DRIVELINE.

TODAY WE'RE ALL ABOUT TRANSMISSIONS, COOLERS, REAR ENDS, AND THE MODIFICATIONS NEEDED TO MAKE IT ALL WORK. TRUCK TECH BEGINS NOW,

(LT)>> WE'VE GOT OUR LATE MODEL SILVERADO IN THE SHOP TODAY FOR SOME FINAL UPGRADES TO THE DRIVETRAIN BEFORE IT GETS ITS FINAL BOOST IN PERFORMANCE, AND WHEN WE'RE DONE THIS LATE MODEL SILVERADO WILL BE A

HIGH PERFORMANCE STREET SLEEPER THAT CAN CLEAN UP AT THE TRACK AND STILL GET YOU TO WORK MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY.

(JEREMY)>> THERE ARE A FEW AREAS THAT WE'RE GOING TO ADDRESS, LIKE THE TRANSMISSION, THE REAR AXLE, AND THE DRIVESHAFT.

WE WANT TO TAKE CARE OF ANY FACTORY WEAKNESSES THAT MAY REMAIN. SO WHEN ALL THAT HORSEPOWER GOES UP WE

WON'T HAVE ANY WORRIES.

(LT)>> THIS SILVERADO CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A SIXL-80 SIX SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, AND WHILE THEY DO HAVE THEIR STRONG POINTS THEY AREN'T THE MOST ROBUST TRANSMISSION IN THE WHOLE

WORLD, ESPECIALLY ONCE YOU START TOSSING A POWER ADDER INTO THE MIX LIKE WE'RE ABOUT TO DO. NOW DON'T GET ME WRONG, THERE ARE SOME PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO HAVE DECENT POWER GOING THROUGH A SIXL-80, BUT THERE'S ALSO PEOPLE OUT THERE WHO DAMAGE THEM ON A STOCK ENGINE, AND THIS IS THE PERFECT EXAMPLE. WHEN THIS TRUCK HAD ONLY 150,000 MILES ON IT, THE REAR PLANETARY GEAR SET STRIPPED OFF, SENT MATERIAL THROUGH THE PUMP, AND TOOK OUT THE ENTIRE TRANSMISSION. SO NEEDLESS TO SAY WE DON'T HAVE A TON OF FAITH IN THE STOCK AUTOMATIC. SO WHAT'S THE SOLUTION? WELL WE'RE GONNA SWAP THIS TRANS OUT WITH ANOTHER ONE AND SHOW YOU GUYS AT HOME WHAT IT TAKES TO MAKE THAT HAPPEN.

(JEREMY)>> WE STARTED BY LOOKING FOR A TRANSMISSION THAT WOULD HANDLE THE POWER WE'RE ABOUT TO PUT

DOWN, AND THE NATURAL CHOICE FOR US WAS THE TRIED AND TRUE FOURL-80. YOU CAN THINK OF IT AS A TURBO 400 WITH OVERDRIVE. IT'S A FOUR SPEED AUTOMATIC THAT CAME IN THREE QUARTER AND ONE TON PICK UPS SINCE THE EARLY '90'S, BUT ANY OLE JUNKYARD FOURL-80 JUST ISN'T GONNA CUT IT.

(LT)>> WE KNOW THAT MONSTER TRANSMISSION BUILT SOME PRETTY STOUT AUTOMATICS. SO WE ORDERED AND EXTREME SUPER DUTY VERSION OF THE FOURL-80-E. IT'S RATED AT 1,100 HORSEPOWER AND 1,000 POUND FEET OF TORQUE. SO WE KNOW IT'S GONNA WITHSTAND WHATEVER WE CAN THROW AT IT AND THEN SOME.

IT'S UPGRADED WITH GOODIES LIKE A KEVLAR BAND FRONT AND REAR, A HEAVY DUTY SPRAG, AND RECALIBRATED VALVE BODY. WE CHOSE TO UPGRADE OUR TRANSMISSION WITH A DEEP SUMP ALUMINUM PAN FOR GREATER FLUID CAPACITY AND COOLING, A 2,500 RPM STALL CONVERTER WITH A BILLET FRONT PLATE, AND A CASE OF TRANSMISSION FLUID.

(JEREMY)>> IT'S ONE THING TO BOLT THE TRANSMISSION INTO THE TRUCK, BUT YOU LATE MODEL GUYS MAY BE WONDERING HOW WE'RE GOING TO CONTROL THIS ELECTRONIC TRANS. WELL A QUICK SEARCH OF THE WEB LED US TO PCM OF NORTH CAROLINA, AND THEIR SIXL-80 TO FOURL-80 SWAP HARNESS. IT TAKES ALL THE GUESS WORK OUT OF THIS CONVERSION AND IT UTILIZES A FACTORY TRANS CONTROLLER AND INTEGRATES PERFECTLY WITH THE BODY CONTROL MODULE. THIS WAY WE'RE ABLE TO KEEP STUFF LIKE CRUISE CONTROL AND OUR FACTORY TRANS TEMP GAUGE. SO WITH JUST A LITTLE BIT OF RESEARCH WE'RE ABLE TO CONVERT THIS TRUCK TO A FOURL-80 AND HAVE NO FEAR OF BREAKING ANYTHING IN THE TRANS. WE GET STARTED BY TEARING THIS THING DOWN.

(LT)>> USE A JACK TO SUPPORT THE REAR OF THE TRANS SO THE CROSSMEMBER CAN BE REMOVED. WE'RE DOING THIS FIRST SO WE CAN GET TO THE EXHAUST. I ALWAYS DRAIN THE TRANS FLUID BEFORE I REMOVE IT TO PREVENT SPILLING LATER ON. SO THE PAN COMES OFF AND THE TRANS FLUID IS DRAINED. REINSTALL THE PAN TO KEEP DIRT OUT WHILE IT'S IN STORAGE. ON THE SIDE OF THE TRANS DISCONNECT THE SHIFT CABLE AND ARM. NEXT UP THE STARTER COMES OUT ALONG WITH THE PLASTIC

DUST COVER TO EXPOSE THE TORQUE CONVERTER BOLTS.

USE A BREAKER BAR ON THE FRONT OF THE CRANK TO TURN THE ENGINE BY HAND TO EXPOSE AND REMOVE EACH

OF THE THREE BOLTS. THE DRIVE SHAFT IS IN THE WAY, SO THAT IS NEXT TO GO.

REMOVE ALL THE BELL HOUSING BOLTS AND THE TRANS IS READY TO COME OUT. THE DOWEL PINS WERE RUSTED ON THIS ONE, SO A LITTLE PERSUASION WAS NECESSARY. BEFORE YOU GO AHEAD AND INSTALL THAT NEW TORQUE CONVERTER INTO YOUR TRANSMISSION THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS YOU DEFINITELY NEED TO TAKE CARE OF SO YOU DON'T CAUSE DAMAGE LATER ON DOWN THE ROAD, AND THE FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT OF THOSE IS FLUID LEVEL. YOU ABSOLUTELY NEVER EVER WANT TO INSTALL A TORQUE

CONVERT THAT'S BONE DRY. IF YOU FORGET THE FLUID WHAT'LL HAPPEN IS WHEN YOU FIRST START IT UP IT TAKES A VERY LONG TIME FOR THE FRONT PUMP TO FILL IT WITH FLUID, WHICH MEANS IT'S TURNING WITH NO LUBRICATION, AND THAT COULD POTENTIALLY DAMAGE THE TORQUE CONVERTER. AND I DON'T KNOW ABOUT YOU GUYS, BUT I REALLY DON'T WANT TO PULL OUT A TRANS A SECOND TIME JUST BECAUSE I FORGOT A LITTLE BIT OF FLUID. THE NEXT THING I LIKE TO DO IS TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF ATF AND JUST WIPE IT ON THE SEALING SURFACE OF THE TORQUE CONVERTER. THAT WAY WHEN WE SLIDE THE CONVERTER INTO THE TRANSMISSION IT WON'T TEAR IT.

NOW A SEAL IS SOMETHING THAT'S SMALL AND VERY

INEXPENSIVE, BUT IF IT'S DAMAGED THAT MEANS PULLING

THE TRANS OUT JUST TO FIX IT. SO WE'RE GONNA DEFINITELY NOT DO THAT.

CAREFULLY INSTALL THE NEW TORQUE CONVERTER MAKING SURE IT'S FULLY SEATED. I JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU HEAR THREE CLUNKS WHEN YOU INSTALL ONE OF THESE. THERE'S ONE...

THERE'S FELT LIKE TWO. I THINK THAT MAY BE IN. YEP, THAT'S DEFINITELY FULLY SEATED.

(JEREMY)>> COOL, ONE THING TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN SWAPPING OUT A FOURL-80 BEHIND AND LS IS TORQUE CONVERTER PILOT SPACING. THESE SWAPS HAVE BECOME SO POPULAR THAT COMPANIES LIKE MONSTER HAVE STARTED SELLING TORQUE CONVERTERS WITH AN EXTENDED PILOT. THIS WAY WE DON'T HAVE TO RUN A SPACER, WHICH IS DESIGNED FOR A STOCK TORQUE CONVERTER. NOW IF WE WERE TO RUN THIS SPACER THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE THAT WE COULD DAMAGE THE PUMP INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION, AND IF THE PILOT WERE TOO SHORT COULD DAMAGE A BEARING.

WE'LL SEE IF WE CAN GET THESE FLYWHEELS SWAPPED OUT.

(LT)>> REMOVE THE OLD, WIMPY FLEX PLATE AND CLEAN THE MATING SURFACE OF THE CRANK TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING SITS FLAT. TORQUE TO 75 FOOT POUNDS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT, CROSS CUTTING THE CROSS MEMBER!

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK ON THE INSTALL OF OUR MONSTER FOURL-80-E. WITH A NEW TRANS ROLLED UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK, RAISE IT UP INTO PLACE AND LINE EVERYTHING UP. ONCE IT'S SEATED, START SOME BELL HOUSING BOLTS AND THEN TORQUE THEM DOWN. THIS TRANSMISSION SWAP HAS BEEN 100 PERCENT BOLT IN SO FAR. IT COULDN'T BE GOING ANY SMOOTHER, BUT WE'RE ABOUT TO HIT OUR FIRST ROAD BLOCK. AND LET ME SHOW YOU WHAT I MEAN WHEN WE GO TO INSTALL THIS TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER. NOW THESE MOUNTS, THEY'RE WELDED TO THE FRAME, BUT UNFORTUNATELY THE TRANSMISSION MOUNT ON THE FOURL-80 IS A FEW INCHES FARTHER TOWARDS THE REAR

THAN IT WAS ON THE SIXL-80. SO THIS JUST ISN'T GONNA BOLT UP. NOW THERE'S TWO DIFFERENT WAYS WE COULD GO ABOUT FIXING THIS PROBLEM. THE FIRST WOULD BE TO CUT THESE MOUNTS OFF THE

FRAME, SLIDE THEM FARTHER TOWARD THE REAR, AND REAR WELD THEM. IT'S VERY TIME CONSUMING AND NOT NECESSARILY WORTH ALL THE EFFORT. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU AN EASIER WAY TO MAKE THIS REPAIR THAT'S JUST A STRONG, AND IT'S GONNA START BY MAKING A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT MARKS AND CUTTING THE CROSSMEMBER INTO THREE SEPARATE PIECES.

WITH THE CUT LINES MARKED WITH A SQUARE, CUT THE CROSSMEMBER. WE'RE USING A BAND SAW BUT THERE ARE MANY TOOLS YOU

COULD USE TO DO THIS JOB.

[ grinder spinning ]

(LT)>> WITH THE PIECES ALL LINED UP YOU CAN START TO SEE HOW WE'RE GONNA MAKE THIS TRANSITION. WE NEED ABOUT AN ADDITIONAL FIVE INCHES. SO I'M GONNA TAKE THE PIECES THAT WE CUT OFF,

SLIDE THEM AHEAD, AND FILL THE GAP WITH THIS THREESIXTEENTHS PLATE STEEL THAT I CUT BEFOREHAND.

NOW I'LL PROBABLY GO BACK IN AND ADD A GUSSET LATER ON, BUT THIS IS GOING TO BE MORE THAN STRONG ENOUGH FOR WHAT WE NEED TO ACCOMPLISH. NOW YOU CAN ACTUALLY USE THIS TECHNIQUE FOR ANY TYPE OF TRANSMISSION SWAP THAT YOU NEED WHERE YOU CAN'T PHYSICALLY SLIDE THE CROSSMEMBER BACK

AND FORTH ON THE FRAME.

I GUESS IT'S TRUE WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE. ONCE YOU KNOW IT'LL FIT RIGHT, BURN IT IN FOR GOOD AND APPLY A COAT OF PAINT TO KEEP IT ALL FROM RUSTING. SHE'S HOME!

(JEREMY)>> HEAT IS ONE OF THE MAIN ENEMIES IN ANY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, AND TWO THINGS THAT MAKE MORE HEAT ARE A HIGHER STALL SPEED TORQUE CONVERTER AND MORE POWER, BOTH OF WHICH THIS TRUCK WILL HAVE. NOW WE COULD TAKE THE CHANCE AND HOOK UP OUR NICE NEW TRANSMISSION TO THE FACTORY COOLER, BUT WE WOULD JUST BE ASKING FOR TROUBLE. NOW TRUST ME, I'VE SEEN PERFORMANCE TRANSMISSIONS HOOKED UP THAT WAY AND THEY DIDN'T LAST VERY LONG. SO WE'LL NEED AN UPGRADE TO GET RID OF THAT EXCESS HEAT. FOR THAT WE'LL BE USING EARL'S PLUMBING. WE'LL START WITH DASH SIX AN FITTINGS TO GET THE FLUID FROM THE TRANSMISSION TO THE FACTORY TRANSMISSION COOLER IN THE COLD SIDE OF THE RADIATOR. ONCE THE FLUID'S PASSED THROUGH THERE AND COOLED DOWN A LITTLE BIT IT'LL MAKE ITS WAY THROUGH THIS 34 ROW, 10.5 INCH TALL EARL'S COOLER THAT'S TWO INCHES THICK. NOW WE ALSO PICKED UP THE OPTIONAL BRACKETS FOR MOUNTING. SO ONCE WE'VE GOT RID OF THAT EXTRA HEAT, THEN THE

FLUID WILL MAKE ITS WAY BACK TO THE TRANSMISSION. WE'RE USING EARL'S PRO LITE 350 HOSE TO MAKE ALL THE CONNECTIONS.

(LT)>> WITH THE TRUCK LOWERED DOWN, START BY REMOVING THE HEADER PANEL. THEN POP OFF THE GRILL. REMOVE THE HOOD LATCH AND THE CENTER SUPPORT PIECE. POP THE CLIPS ON THE LINES AND REMOVE THE TRANS COOLER. SIDE BY SIDE YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE OLD COOLER AND THIS NEW MUCH LARGER ONE. WE START THE INSTALLATION BY MOCKING UP THE COOLER.

(JEREMY)>> RIGHT THERE, THAT LOOKS GOOD.

(LT)>> AND ONCE WE'RE HAPPY WITH PLACEMENT, USE SOME VICE GRIPS TO HOLD IT WHILE THE HOLES GET DRILLED FOR THE TOP BRACKETS. FOR THE BOTTOM WE BENT SOME 90 DEGREE BRACKETS AND THEY'LL ATTACH TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CORE SUPPORT. [ saw spinning ]

(LT)>> BEFORE WE INSTALL THE FITTING ONTO THE END OF OUR EARL'S HOSE WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA SLIDE IT INSIDE SOME OF THIS DEI FIRE SLEEVE. IT'LL PROTECT IT FROM THE DIRECT HEAT OF THE EXHAUST AND ANY CHAFFING. IT'S MADE OF A HIGH TEMPERATURE SILICONE

EXTERIOR WITH BRAIDED GLASS INTERIOR. THE BEST PART IS IT SLIDES PERFECTLY AROUND OUR DASH SIX HOSE, NICE AND COZY. WITH A FRESH END ON THE HOSE, INSTALL THE FIRST FITTING. THEN LINE THE HOSE UP UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK AND MEASURE FOR LENGTH. INSTALL THE SECOND FITTING, AND TIGHTEN IT AT THE TRANSMISSION AND THEN AT THE COOLER.

(JEREMY)>> HAVING THE RIGHT GEAR RATIO IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE IT EFFECTS BOTH ACCELERATION AND FUEL ECONOMY.

(LT)>> IF YOU HAVE THE WRONG RATIO FOR YOUR SPECIFIC SETUP YOUR TRUCK WILL BE UNBEARABLE TO DRIVE. SO TODAY WE'RE TALKING ABOUT GEARS, AND ONE OF THE ADVANTAGES OF THE SIXL-80 THAT CAME IN PROJECT WHITE NOISE IS THE WIDE GEAR SPREAD, WHICH MAKES FOR GREAT ACCELERATION AND GREAT LOW RPM CRUISING WHEN YOU'RE GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY. FIRST GEAR COMES IN AT FOURZEROTWO TO ONE AND SIXTH GEAR AT SIXSEVEN. AND WHEN WE MULTIPLY IT BY THE 3.42 AXLE RATIO TO GET THE OVERALL DRIVE RATIO, FIRST GEAR COMES IN AT 13-75 TO ONE, AND SIXTH GEAR AT 229. ONE OF THE DISADVANTAGES OF THE STRONGER FOURL-80 IS ITS NARROW GEAR SPREAD. FIRST GEAR COMES IN AT 248, WHICH IS ACTUALLY CLOSER TO SECOND GEAR IN THE SIX SPEED, AND FOURTH GEAR COMES IN AT ZERO-75. SO WE NEED TO REGEAR THE TRUCK AND FIND A RATIO THAT'LL HELP US HAVE A GOOD COMPROMISE BETWEEN ACCELERATION AND CRUISING RPM. SO WE CHOSE 3.73'S. NOW WHAT DOES THE 3.73 MEAN? WELL THE PINION GEAR TURNS THREE AND THREE QUARTER TURNS FOR EVERY SINGLE TURN OF THE RING GEAR. SO WHEN WE DO THE MATH AND MULTIPLY THE TWO TOGETHER, FIRST GEAR COMES IN AT 925 TO ONE, AND FOURTH GEAR COMES IN AT 280. AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THAT'S NOT QUITE AS WIDE OF A SPREAD AS WE HAD WITH THE SIX SPEED BUT DON'T FORGET, PROJECT WHITE NOISE IS A STREET/STRIP VEHICLE THAT'S GONNA SPEND MOST OF IT'S TIME HONESTLY ON THE STREET.

AND WE STILL WANT TO HAVE A GREAT CRUISING RPM. IF WE WERE GONNA LIVE MOSTLY AT THE STRIP WE PROBABLY COULD HAVE GONE WITH A 4.11 OR EVEN A 4.56 BUT THAT'S JUST NOT A GEAR RATIO WE'RE WILLING TO LIVE WITH EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK. ANYONE FAMILIAR WITH LATE MODEL GM TRUCKS HAS PROBABLY HEARD OF THE OPTIONAL G-80 LOCKING

DIFFERENTIAL ALSO KNOWN AS THE "GOV LOCK".

NOW IT'S UNFORTUNATELY EARNED THE NICKNAME "GOV BOMB" BECAUSE OF THE TENDENCY OF THESE SMALL PIECES TO BREAK OFF, GET CAUGHT BETWEEN THE GEARS, AND DESTROY THE ENTIRE DIFFERENTIAL, BUT IT'S AN INTERESTING DESIGN AND HERE'S HOW IT WORKS. AS YOU LOSE TRACTION AND ONE WHEEL SPINS FASTER THAN THE OTHER, THESE LITTLE COUNTERWEIGHTS FLIP OUT AND ENGAGE A WAVE PLATE THAT LOCKS A POSI STYLE CLUTCH PACK AT EITHER END OF THE SPIDER GEAR, SENDING EQUAL POWER TO BOTH WHEELS. BUT WHAT MOST PEOPLE DON'T REALIZE, WHEN THE VEHICLE GOES FASTER THAN 45 MILES AN HOUR, THIS OTHER COUNTERWEIGHT FLIPS OUT PREVENTING LOCKING, WHICH

BASICALLY LEAVES YOU WITH AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. AND FOR US THAT JUST ISN'T GONNA CUT IT. SO TO REGEAR AND GET RID OF THAT G-80 WE WENT TO

YUKON GEAR AND AXLE AND PICKED UP A WHOLE BUNCH OF PARTS, STARTING WITH THIS 3.73 TO ONE RING AND PINION. IT'S A GREAT COMPROMISE BETWEEN ACCELERATION AND CRUISING RPM. WE ALSO GOT A FORGED 13-50 PINION YOKE, AS WELL AS THIS DURAGRIP STYLE POSI, AND IT USES SPRINGS

INSTEAD OF CENTRIFUGAL FORCE TO APPLY THE CLUTCHES ALL THE TIME, NOT JUST WHEN YOU'RE GOING UNDER 45 MILES AN HOUR. WE ALSO PICKED UP A REINFORCED DIFFERENTIAL COVER THAT HAVE THESE STUDS THAT APPLY PRESSURE ON THE BEARING CAPS TO KEEP EVERYTHING IN LINE. LASTLY WE GOT A MASTER INSTALL KIT THAT COMES WITH ALL THE BEARINGS AND SEALS WE NEED TO COMPLETE THE INSTALLATION AS WELL AS THE SHIMS TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS ADJUSTED PROPERLY.

(JEREMY)>> THE TEARDOWN STARTS BY POPPING THE COVER AND LETTING THE FLUID DRAIN. THE CARRIER CENTER PIN HOLDS THE AXLES FROM PUSHING IN. SO IT COMES OUT, FOLLOWED BY THE "C" CLIPS. PULL THE MAIN CAPS AND REMOVE THE G-80 WITH

THE RING GEAR ATTACHED. REMOVE THE PINION NUT, AND WITH A LITTLE PERSUASION THE OLD GEARS ARE GONE. USE A LONG DRIFT PUNCH TO DRIVE THE OLD BEARING RACES OUT OF THE HOUSING. OUT FRONT THE BEARING RACE AND SEAL ALL COME OUT IN ONE FELL SWOOP.

(LT)>> WITH THE AXLE HOUSING ALREADY CLEANED UP, REASSEMBLY STARTS BY DRIVING THE NEW RACES INTO THE HOUSING. WE ALREADY TOOK THE TIME TO CHECK A PRELIMINARY PATTERN. SO WE'LL INSTALL THE CORRECT PINION SHIM, THEN PRESS ON THE LARGE PINION BEARING.

WITH THE CORRECT PINION DEPTH SHIM INSTALLED, OUR NEXT THING TO SET IS THE PINION BEARING PRELOAD, AND THAT'S BASICALLY THE AMOUNT OF FORCE IT TAKES TO TURN THIS PINION SHAFT IN THE HOUSING, AND THAT'S CONTROLLED BY THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO BEARINGS. SO YOU INSTALL A CRUSH COLLAR, AND AS YOU TIGHTEN THE PINION NUT DOWN THE TWO BEARINGS SQUISH CLOSER TOGETHER AND BECOME HARDER TO TURN. WE'RE SHOOTING FOR A FIGURE SOMEWHERE BETWEEN 14 AND 19 INCH POUNDS OF ROTATIONAL FORCE.

(JEREMY)>> YOU CAN BUY A PINION HOLDING TOOL, BUT WE MADE OURS FROM DOM TUBING AND SOME SCRAP THREESIXTEENTH INCH PLATE. TIGHTEN THE NUT UNTIL ALL BEARING PLAY IS GONE. THEN PAY ATTENTION BECAUSE THE PRELOAD WILL GO UP QUICKLY AND IT'S EASY TO OVERSHOOT.

IF YOU GO TOO FAR, YOU'LL NEED TO START OVER WITH A NEW CRUSH COLLAR. CHECK YOUR MANUAL FOR PRELOAD SPECS ON YOUR SETUP.

(LT)>> NOW IT'S TIME TO INSTALL THE NEW CARRIER AND MEASURE BACKLASH. OUR SET CALLS FOR THREE TO SIX THOUSANDTHS. NOW CROSS YOUR FINGERS AND CHECK THE PATTERN. THIS YELLOW PAINT SHOWS YOU WHERE THE GEARS ARE

TOUCHING, AND IDEALLY IT WILL BE CENTERED BOTH FRONT TO BACK AND TOP TO BOTTOM. SLIDE THE AXLES IN, INSTALL THE "C" CLIPS, THEN THE CENTER PIN, AND THE COVER GOES ON. THAT'S ONE REGEARED POSI REAR END IN THE BAG.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT OUR SILVERADO GETS THE SHAFT TIMES TWO!

(JEREMY)>> ANOTHER AREA WE HAD TO ADDRESS WITH OUR DRIVELINE UPGRADES IS THE DRIVESHAFT ITSELF.

THE FACTORY SHAFT IN OUR 2010 SILVERADO IS MADE FROM THIN WALLED ALUMINUM, AND WHEN COMBINED WITH 86 INCHES IN LENGTH, IT CAN BECOME UNSTABLE AT HIGH SPEED AND POWER LEVELS. JUST THINK OF A JUMP ROPE AND WELL, YOU GET THE IDEA, NOT VERY GOOD. SO PRECISION SHAFT TECHNOLOGIES MADE US A CUSTOM LENGTH TWO PIECE DRIVESHAFT WITH AN ALUMINUM REAR SECTION, AND IT WILL WITHSTAND THE POWER WE'RE GOING TO MAKE. BECAUSE IT'S A TWO PIECE SHAFT, THE CENTER WILL BE SUPPORTED WITH A CROSSMEMBER MADE OF TWO BY TWO INCH SQUARE TUBING. THE SHAFTS FEATURE BEEFY 1350 UNIVERSAL JOINTS AND A FORGED STRANGE ENGINEERING 32 SPLINE YOKE FOR THE FOURL-80-E.

(LT)>> WHETHER YOU WORK OR PLAY IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS, PROTECTING YOUR TRUCK'S INTERIOR FROM THE ELEMENTS CAN BE CHALLENGING. THESE ARE SEAT SAVER SEAT COVERS BY COVERCRAFT. THEY'RE CUSTOM PATTERNED FOR A PERFECT FIT AND

INSTALL IN MINUTES OVER YOUR FACTORY SEATS, PROTECTING THEM FROM SUN, DIRT, DOGS, AND THE KIDS. IT'S A BREATHABLE MATERIAL THAT REPELS WATER, AND WHEN THEY DO GET DIRTY YOU CAN JUST SLIP THEM OFF AND THROW THEM IN THE WASH. CHECK OUT ALL THE AVAILABLE MATERIALS,

COLORS, AND PATTERNS AT COVERCRAFT DOT COM.

(JEREMY)>> KEEPING WITH OUR SLEEPER THEME FOR PROJECT WHITE NOISE, THE 17 INCH OE WHEELS, WELL THEY FIT THE BILL BUT THOSE STOCK SKINNY TIRES JUST AREN'T GONNA CUT IT. SO WE WENT TO ROCK AUTO DOT COM AND ORDERED A SET OF KEYSTONE SILVERADO SS REPLICA WHEELS. THEY'RE A 20 BY EIGHT AND A HALF FIVE SPOKE DESIGN WITH THE PROPER OFFSET FOR LATE MODEL SILVERADOS. THEY'RE ALSO PAINTED SILVER FOR GOOD LOOKS AND PRETTY EASY UPKEEP. AND TO COMPLETE OUR WHEEL PACKAGE WE PICKED UP A SET OF GM TIRE PRESSURE SENSORS SO WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THAT TPMS LIGHT.

(LT)>> YOU DON'T HAVE TO REINVENT THE WHEEL TO STAND OUT IN THE TOOL BUSINESS, BUT EVERY YEAR MATCO TOOLS COMES PRETTY CLOSE WITH INNOVATIONS THAT MAKE SHOP LIFE EASIER. THIS IS MATCO'S EIGHT PIECE TOP TORQUE TWO ORANGE SCREW DRIVER SET. DIFFERENT SIZE HANDLES MATCH THE LENGTH OF THE DRIVER, WHICH JUST FEELS RIGHT. THE TEXTURED MATERIAL PROVIDES EXCELLENT GRIP, AND THE HANDY TRAY KEEPS THEM ORGANIZED IN YOUR TOOL DRAWLER. YOU CAN GET YOUR SET FROM YOUR FAVORITE MATCO TOOLS DISTRIBUTOR OR BY VISITING MATCO TOOLS DOT COM.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WE'VE GOT A LOT ACCOMPLISHED ON OUR 2010 SILVERADO. OUR MONSTER TRANSMISSION'S INSTALLED, OUR EARL'S TRANS COOLER UP FRONT, AND WE REBUILT THE REAR AXLE. SO AT LEAST NOW WE'LL BE SPINNING BOTH TIRES BUT THAT'S ONLY PREPARED US FOR WHAT'S TO COME.

(LT)>> THAT'S RIGHT, EVERY MODIFICATION WE'VE DONE TO THIS SILVERADO SO FAR HAS BEEN IN PREPARATION FOR THIS. WE WANT A GOOD STRONG FOUNDATION SO WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT BREAKING ANYTHING, CAUSE NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS TRUCK WE'LL BE BOLTING ON THIS SINGLE 76 MILLIMETER TURBO. WE'LL ALSO GET INTO THE FUEL SYSTEM AND IGNITION SYSTEM JUST TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING WILL STAND UP. BUT WE'LL GET THIS THING ON THE DYNO AND WE'LL MAKE SOME BIG POWER, THAT'S A PROMISE.

(JEREMY)>> COOL MAN, DON'T BLOW IT UP.

(LT)>> NAH MAN, THIS THING'S PRETTY COOL. 76 MILLIMETER COMPRESSOR HOUSING, SINGLE THREE INCH DOWN PIPE, FOUR INCH ON THE FILTER, IT'S GONNA BE SWEET.