Cutting and Buffing to Create a Smooth as Glass Finish

(ANNOUNCER)>> SHINE ON YOU CRAZY DIAMOND. "BASKET CASE" IS NOW A JEWEL OF AN F-100 READY FOR A DIY WIRING KIT. PLUS HOW TO FAB UP A CUSTOM EXHAUST. THAT AND MORE TODAY ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> TODAY WE HAVE TWO OF OUR MOST POPULAR PROJECTS IN THE SHOP THAT WE NEED TO MAKE SOME HEADWAY ON AND GET THEM BOTH CLOSER TO THE FINISH LINE, AND THE FIRST IS THIS '71 C-10 THAT'S POWERED BY THE NEW LT ONE CRATE ENGINE. IT'S RIDING ON AIR BAGS AND IT'S GONNA BE A DAILY DRIVER WHEN WE'RE DONE WITH IT.

(JEREMY)>> AND OUR '55 F-100 SHOW TRUCK. WE'VE GOT ALL THE PANELS PAINTED AND WE'VE MADE GREAT PROGRESS GETTING THIS THING BACK TOGETHER, AND TODAY I'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO BRING OUT THAT SHINE BY WET SANDING AND BUFFING, ALONG WITH INSTALLING THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND ALL THE WIRING.

(LT)>> FOR THE PAST FEW MONTHS OUR '71 C-10 HAS BEEN SITTING OUTSIDE IN THE WAREHOUSE WAITING ON NEW PARTS TO ARRIVE, AND AS YOU CAN SEE, MOST OF THEM HAVE SHOWN UP. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO BUILD A CUSTOM EXHAUST SYSTEM THAT EXITS THROUGH THE SIDE OF THE BED, AND WE'LL TAKE CARE OF SOME OF THAT LAST MINUTE PLUMBING, BUT FIRST WE'VE GOT TO GET THE TRUCK CLEANED OFF AND BACK DOWN TO A BARE FRAME.

(JEREMY)>> LET'S MAKE THIS THE LAST TIME WE TAKE THIS CAB OFF, HOW ABOUT THAT?

(LT)>> ALRIGHT, WELL LET'S GET THIS OUT OF HERE.

EVERY EXHAUST SYSTEM STARTS AT THE CYLINDER HEAD, AND ATTACHED TO OUR LT ONE HEADS FROM THE FACTORY WERE A SET OF CSEVEN CORVETTE STYLE CENTER DUMP CAST IRON EXHAUST MANIFOLDS. WE KNEW RIGHT AWAY THEY WEREN'T GONNA WORK FOR OUR APPLICATION BECAUSE THEY DUMP DIRECTLY IN THE MIDDLE OF OUR C-10'S FRAME. SO UNLESS WE WANTED TO CUT THE FRAME IN HALF THEY JUST WEREN'T GONNA WORK. SO I ORDERED A PAIR OF LT ONE SWAP PROTOTYPE HEADERS THAT ARE DESIGNED OFF OF AN LS SWAP HEADER. NOW THESE LONG TUBES, THEY ALMOST FIT. IT'S ACTUALLY KINDA CLOSE, BUT THESE LAST TWO PRIMARY TUBES ACTUALLY INTERFERE WITH BOTH THE STARTER AND THE BELL HOUSING. SO THAT'S REALLY NOT AN OPTION AND NOT WORTH THE EFFORT IT WOULD TAKE TO MOVE THE TUBES AROUND AND MAKE IT WORK. NOW THIS SET OF SHORTY HEADERS, WELL THAT'S DEFINITELY A STEP IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION. OUT OF THE BOX THEY'RE VERY, VERY CLOSE TO FITTING. NOW THIS FLANGE ALMOST HIT THE STARTER. SO I TOOK A LITTLE BIT OF TIME, I CUT OFF THE COLLECTOR, AND ADDED THIS LITTLE BIT OF A KICK OUT TO MAKE IT CLEAR THE STARTER AND GIVE US EXCELLENT GROUND CLEARANCE, AND WE'LL START BY GETTING THESE BOLTED UP.

TO WORK WELL WITH THE 460 HORSEPOWER OF OUR LT ONE WE NEED TO RUN THREE INCH EXHAUST. SO WE WENT TO BORLA AND PICKED UP A STAINLESS UNIVERSAL HOT ROD SERIES BUILDER KIT, AND IT STARTS WITH THESE TWO FIVE FOOT LONG SECTIONS OF PIPE. THE KIT ALSO INCLUDES FOUR 180'S, FOUR 90'S, AND FOUR 45'S. SO WE'LL HAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH MATERIAL TO GET THE EXHAUST FROM THE ENGINE OUT THE BACK OF OUR C-10. NOW WE ALSO NEEDED SOME MUFFLERS.

SO WE PICKED UP A SET OF THEIR CRATE MUFFLERS. NOW THEY'RE MADE FROM 304 STAINLESS STEEL, THEY'RE DIRECTIONAL, AND THEY'LL REALLY BRING OUT THE SOUND OF OUR 460 HORSEPOWER LT ONE, AND OUR EXHAUST STARTS BY MAKING SOME FLANGES. OUR HEADERS HAVE A TWO AND A HALF INCH COLLECTOR FLANGE. SO I'M STARTING WITH A BARE FLANGE CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO A TWO AND A HALF INCH TO THREE INCH TRANSITION. AFTER IT'S TACKED I WILL BOLT IT TO THE HEADERS.

EXACT PLACEMENT IS CRITICAL HERE. TO CONNECT THE MUFFLER TO THE HEADER I NEED TO GO UP AND OVER USING TWO 45'S. I PREFER TO CUT THE PIPE A FEW TIMES AND SNEAK UP ON THE FINISHED LENGTH SINCE I DON'T REALLY HAVE A PIPE STRETCHER IN MY TOOL BOX.

ANYTIME YOU'RE TIGGING UP AN EXHAUST, SURFACE PREPARATION IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR A QUALITY CONSISTENT WELD. NOW WHEN THEY MANUFACTURE THESE MANDREL BENDS, THE INSIDE OF THE PIPE IS ACTUALLY LUBRICATED TO MAKE IT STRETCH EASIER, BUT THAT LUBRICATION WILL ACTUALLY RUIN YOUR WELD. IT BURNS OFF AND JUST GETS ALL CONTAMINATED. SO ANYTIME I'M OUT TO START AN EXHAUST PROJECT I USE A LITTLE BIT OF ACETONE AND I WIPE OFF THE

INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE WELD AREA. IT'LL DRY QUICKLY AND REMOVE ALL THAT OILY RESIDUE, MAKING FOR A NICE, CLEAN, CONSISTENT WELD. TWO INCH MASKING TAPE HOLDS IT IN PLACE WHILE TACKING. YOU CAN BUY SPECIAL CLAMPS TO DO THIS, BUT A SEVEN DOLLAR ROLL OF TAPE WORKS JUST FINE FOR ME. WITH THE FRONT PIPE TACKED TOGETHER, NEXT I'LL CHECK FITMENT TO THE COLLECTOR, AND WHEN I'M HAPPY THAT ALSO GETS TACK WELDED. THE ENTIRE PIECE GETS CHECKED ONE LAST TIME FOR PERFECT ALIGNMENT. ONCE IT'S ALL WELDED TOGETHER THE PROCESS GETS REPEATED ON THE PASSENGER SIDE FOR A CLEAN, SYMMETRICAL LOOK.

(JEREMY)>> MOST TRUCKS WON'T GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT

ELECTRICITY OR WIRING TO GET IT WHERE IT NEEDS TO GO. NOW OUR F-100 CAME TO US AS AN INCOMPLETE PROJECT

AND WE DIDN'T GET ANY WIRING WITH THE TRUCK. OUR THREE POINT FIVE ECOBOOST HAS ITS OWN

CONTROL HARNESS, WHICH WILL RUN THE ENGINE, BUT THE REST OF THE TRUCK HAS NOTHING. NO LIGHTS, TURN SIGNALS, BRAKE LIGHTS, OR ANYTHING. SO RATHER THAN TRYING TO FIND A 50 YEAR OLD HARNESS AND ADAPT IT TO OUR NEEDS WE'RE STEPPING INTO THE 21ST CENTURY AND WIRING OUR TRUCK WITH SOME HELP

FROM RON FRANCIS WIRING AND THEIR EXPRESS WIRING KIT. THE HEART OF THE KIT IS THIS 18 CIRCUIT FUSE PANEL. ALL THE CIRCUITS COME NEATLY LABELED FOR FAST AND EASY INSTALLATION, AND IT WILL HANDLE THE HIGHER

AMPERAGE DEMANDS OF OUR MODERN FUEL INJECTED POWERTRAIN. IT COMES WITH ALL THE NECESSARY HARNESSES FOR HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS, AND WILL INTEGRATE PERFECTLY WITH OUR FORD PERFORMANCE ENGINE CONTROL HARNESS, BUT SINCE OUR TRUCK DIDN'T COME WITH ANYTHING ELECTRICAL WE OPTED FOR A FEW EXTRAS, LIKE THIS KEY SWITCH, COURTESY LIGHTS, AND A HEADLIGHT DIMMER SWITCH. AND LUCKILY FOR US OUR KIT ALSO CAME WITH SCOTT BOWERS. HE'S THE HEAD HONCHO AT RON FRANCIS WIRING, AND HE AGREED TO COME IN TO LEND US A HAND ON WIRING UP THIS TRUCK.

(SCOTT)>> GOOD TO BE HERE JEREMY.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH MAN, WE'RE GLAD TO HAVE YOU. YOU'VE HAD A MINUTE TO LOOK AROUND AT THE TRUCK.

WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT IT SO FAR?

(SCOTT)>> IT'S A REALLY CLEAN PROJECT. I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO GETTING INVOLVED.

(JEREMY)>> THANKS MAN, THIS IS AN AWESOME KIT

YOU'VE GOT HERE. REALLY CLEAN, NICELY LABELED AND EVERYTHING, BUT AVERAGE GUY AT HOME, WHEN HE GETS THIS KIT, WHAT DOES IT NORMALLY TAKE, INSTALLATION TIME?

(SCOTT)>> WELL IT REALLY DEPENDS ON THE INSTALLER'S ABILITY LEVEL AND HOW COMPLEX THE BUILD IS, BUT USUALLY ABOUT A WEEKEND.

(JEREMY)>> RIGHT, WELL THAT'S GOOD MAN, AND ALSO YOU GUYS HAVE VERY DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS, NOT

ONLY THAT, TECH HELP. SO IT MAKES IT A LOT EASIER FOR THE AVERAGE GUY.

(SCOTT)>> WE REALLY TRY TO PUT EVERYTHING IN PLACE TO MAKE FOR A GOOD, SUCCESSFUL INSTALL.

(JEREMY)>> COOL MAN, RIGHT ON.

WELL WIRING A TRUCK LIKE THIS THAT PRETTY MUCH HAS NOTHING RIGHT NOW, WHERE'S THE FIRST PLACE YOU'D START?

(SCOTT)>> WELL WHAT WE NEED TO DO FIRST IS MOUNT THE FUSE PANEL AND THE SWITCHES.

(JEREMY)>> SHEET METAL SCREWS WILL ATTACH IT TO THE KICK PANEL, AND WHILE SCOTT LAYS OUT THE WIRING, I CAN DRILL FOR BOTH THE IGNITION AND LIGHT SWITCHES. WE'VE CALLED ON SCOTT'S EXPERTISE BEFORE. HE HELPED TOMMY AND JOE WIRE UP THEIR '49 FORD LAST SEASON, AND PITCHED IN ON OUR GIVEBACK '55

HANDYMAN WAGON BY VOLUNTEERING TO WIRE IT UP.

(SCOTT)>> AND YOU HOLD THIS, HOLD IT RIGHT THERE.

(JEREMY)>> ALONG WITH SOME HELP FROM HIS SON KYLE,

WHO'S NOW PART OF THE RON FRANCIS TEAM. HE'S NOT JUST A BUSINESS OWNER. SCOTT'S A FULL ON GEARHEAD WHO LOVES WHAT HE DOES.

(SCOTT)>> I HAVE A VERY INTERESTING JOB.

I RUN A COMPANY THAT SELLS A LOT OF PRODUCTS TO A REALLY NEAT INDUSTRY. PASSIONATE PEOPLE WHO ARE BUILDING PROJECT CARS. WHILE I DON'T GET OUT IN THE FIELD VERY OFTEN, IT'S REALLY NEAT TO GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY AND USE THE PRODUCTS THAT YOU'RE BUILDING. THIS IS CALLED AN OPEN BARREL TERMINAL BECAUSE IT'S ACTUALLY OPEN. I'VE ALSO BROUGHT ALONG ONE OF THESE TOOLS. WHAT IT DOES IS IT ACTUALLY PROPERLY BRINGS THE FLAPS OF THE TERMINAL OVER AND CLOVERLEAVES INTO THE CONDUCTOR FOR A GOOD CRIMP JUST LIKE FACTORY. SO HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT CONNECTOR SYSTEM TO USE ON YOUR PROJECT? WELL ON THE FRONT OF THIS TRUCK IT'S GOING TO BE

WET, SO IT MAKES SENSE TO USE A WEATHERPROOF WEATHER PACK CONNECTOR SYSTEM, BUT IF YOU NEEDED SOMETHING A LITTLE SIMPLER YOU CAN USE A NONWEATHERPROOF CONNECTOR SYSTEM ELSEWHERE IN THE VEHICLE. THE GUYS ARE WORKING ON A REALLY NEAT PROJECT HERE, AND DESPITE THE SIMPLICITY IN THE WIRING THIS TRUCK'S GONNA HAVE SOME REALLY COOL THINGS ON IT. IT'S GOT AN ECOBOOST THREE POINT FIVE TWIN TURBOCHARGED ENGINE THAT IS REALLY CUTTING EDGE. IT'S GOT A SUSPENSION THAT'S GONNA BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE TRUCK REALLY WELL, AND IT'S GONNA BE

LIKE A PRO TOURING TYPE ELEMENT.

(LT)>> THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN FABRICATING A BED SIDE EXIT EXHAUST IS GETTING THE PIPES FROM THE INSIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL TO THE OUTSIDE. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS WE CAN DO IT BUT YOU CAN SEE I ACTUALLY WENT OVER THE FRAME. WE ALSO COULD HAVE CUT A HOLE IN THE SIDE OF THE FRAME BUT THAT'S KIND OF A LAST RESORT OPTION. I ACTUALLY TOOK ADVANTAGE OF A NATURAL SPACE BETWEEN THE BED FLOOR AND THE FRAME RAIL. THERE'S PLENTY OF SPACE TO PASS THE PIPES UP AND OVER. I NEED 45 DEGREES OF BEND TO GET ABOVE THE FRAME.

SO I'LL TAKE IT FROM THIS 180. [ saw cutting metal ]

(LT)>> I DO NEED A BIT MORE LENGTH ON THE STRAIGHT LEG. SO I'LL ALSO TACK ON AN EIGHT INCH LONG PIECE OF STRAIGHT PIPE TO THE END. WITH THIS BORLA EXHAUST TUBING I'M SETTING THE TIG TO 70 AMPS. ONE COOL TIP I'VE LEARNED ABOUT TIG WELDING IS ACTUALLY IN THE GLOVES. I PREFER TO WEAR A MIG WELDING GLOVE ON MY RIGHT HAND BECAUSE THAT'S THE HAND I HOLD THE TORCH IN AND YOU OFTEN HAVE TO SET IT ON A PIECE OF METAL THAT'S A LITTLE BIT WARM. AND ON MY LEFT HAND I WEAR A TIG GLOVE BECAUSE YOU

CAN HAVE REALLY FINE CONTROL OF THE FILLER WIRE.

I NEED A 90 DEGREE BEND TO GET TO THE TOP OF THE FRAME RAIL. THE STOCK LENGTH WORKS, SO IT'LL GET TACKED TO THE FIRST TWO PIECES OF THE TAIL PIPE.

ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE I MADE A 20 DEGREE SWEEP TO THE REAR. SO TO MATCH THAT I'LL USE AN ANGLE FINDER.

DO YOU HAVE TO BE THIS PRECISE WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING AN EXHAUST?

WELL NO, BUT A QUALITY FINISHED PRODUCT IS IMPORTANT. SO TAKE YOUR TIME, BE PATIENT, AND THE RESULTS WILL SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES. WELL WE'VE GOT OUR TAIL PIPE MOCKED UP AND IT DOES EXACTLY WHAT WE NEED IT TO DO. IT CLEARS THE BED BRACE, IT CLEARS THE BED FLOOR, AND IT CLEARS THE FRAME WITH PLENTY OF ROOM TO SPARE ON ALL COUNTS.

NOW WHEN E THROW THE BED BACK ON THIS TRUCK WE JUST HAVE TO MAKE A SMALL NOTCH IN THE BOTTOM AND ADD ONE LITTLE TIP TO THIS EXHAUST SYSTEM AND IT'S DONE. WELL MINUS A LITTLE FINISH WELDING I HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF.

(JEREMY)>> ALRIGHT SCOTT, GO AHEAD AND GIVE THE HEADLIGHTS A SHOT. YEP, DIMS WORK, GO AHEAD AND TRY THE BRIGHTS. YEAH MAN, LOOKS GOOD, ONE SHOT.

(SCOTT)>> GOOD DEAL, I JUST LEFT A COUPLE OF THINGS FOR YOU GUYS TO FINISH UP. YOU HAVE TO PUT THE CONNECTORS ON THOSE TAILLIGHTS.

(JEREMY)>> COOL MAN, THAT'S NOT A PROBLEM, WE'LL TAKE CARE OF IT.

WE REALLY APPRECIATE YOU COMING OUT MAN, THAT'S A

BIG STEP ACCOMPLISHED.

(SCOTT)>> NO WORRIES.

(JEREMY)>> GOOD JOB MAN, APPRECIATE IT.

(JEREMY)>> NO CUSTOM PAINT JOB IS COMPLETE WITHOUT THE FINAL STEP. IT'S CALLED CUTTING AND BUFFING. NOW I LAID DOWN AROUND FOUR COATS OF CLEAR ON OUR F-100 TO GET THAT SHOW QUALITY SHINE, AND FROM A DISTANCE IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD, BUT IF YOU GET IN HERE CLOSE YOU CAN SEE THAT IT'S NOT PERFECT. THERE'S JUST A FEW SMALL SPECS OF TRASH ALONG WITH ORANGE PEEL. NOW WHAT'S ORANGE PEEL? IT'S BASICALLY JUST A TEXTURE THAT LOOKS JUST LIKE AN ORANGE.

LET'S FACE IT, WE'RE HUMAN. THE CLEAR'S NOT GONNA FLOW OUT OF THE GUN WITH THAT SMOOTH AS GLASS FINISH. SO WHEN YOU SEE A CAR AT A SHOW AND IT LOOKS SMOOTH AS GLASS, OR IT LOOKS LIKE THE PAINT'S STILL WET WITH NO TRACE OF ORANGE PEEL, IT'S BEEN CUT AND BUFFED. NOW WHAT I MEAN BY CUT IS I'M ACTUALLY GONNA SAND THE PANEL WITH A FINE GRIT PAPER, CUTTING DOWN A COAT OF CLEAR. AND WELL ALL YOU GUYS KNOW WHAT BUFFING IS. THAT'S THE PROCESS WE'RE GONNA TAKE TO BRING THAT SHOW QUALITY SHINE BACK. SO I'LL MARK OFF A SECTION OF THIS HOOD AND SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO MAKE A FINISHED PAINT JOB POP. YOU'LL OFTEN SEE ME CLEAN A PANEL OVER AND OVER AGAIN, EVEN DURING THE PAINTING PROCESS. IF THERE WAS A SMALL SPEC OF DUST OR DIRT AND I START SANDING, I COULD BURY THE DEBRIS DEEPING IN THE CLEAR, WHICH WOULD MAKE IT DIFFICULT TO SAND OUT. I'LL TAPE OFF A SECTION OF THE HOOD SO YOU CAN SEE A BEFORE AND AFTER, THEN START WITH 1,500 GRIT ON A SANDING BLOCK. USING A BLOCK HERE IS KEY TO FLATTENING OUT THE CLEAR, AND MAKING SURE THE PANEL IS GOOD AND WET WITH WATER WILL MAKE SANDING A LOT EASIER. NOW THERE ARE MANY WAYS YOU CAN ACCOMPLISH THIS. I LIKE TO USE 1,500 GRIT AND STEP UP TO 2,000 BUT

YOU CAN EVEN START WITH 1,000 GRIT BUT BE CAREFUL BECAUSE IT CUTS IT VERY QUICKLY. NOW THEY EVEN HAVE DA'S OR SOFT BACKING PADS FOR A DA THAT YOU CAN GO ALL THE WAY UP TO 3,000 GRIT AND MAKE PRETTY QUICK WORK OF IT. NEXT I'LL STEP DOWN TO 2,000 GRIT PAPER AND GO THROUGH THE SAME PROCESS. THE GOAL HERE IS TO RIDE THE PANEL OF THE 1,500 GRIT SCRATCHES WE MADE SO WE'RE NOT SPENDING AS MUCH TIME RUNNING THE BUFFER. ANY REMAINING FLAWS WILL DISAPPEAR DURING THE NEXT STEP. NOW WE'RE READY TO START BUFFING. NOW ROTARY BUFFERS, THEY'RE PRETTY GOOD, I'VE USED THEM FOR YEARS. YOU WOULD NORMALLY START OUT WITH A WOOL PAD, WHICH IS PRETTY AGGRESSIVE AND MESSY. THEN YOU WOULD STEP DOWN TO A COUPLE OF OTHER PADS AND THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW YOU'RE FIGHTING SWIRLS AND ALL THAT GOOD STUFF, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, THESE CREATE HEAT. SO WHEN YOU HAVE BRAND NEW PAINT IT DOESN'T TAKE

LONG TO DAMAGE THAT.

SO I PREFER ORBITAL STYLE POLISHERS LIKE THIS ONE FRAME CHEMICAL GUYS. THIS IS THEIR TORQUE 22-D RANDOM ORBITAL POLISHER KIT. IT INCLUDES THE POLISHER, PADS FROM CUTTING ALL THE WAY TO FINISHING, AND SAMPLES OF

THEIR VLINE COMPOUNDS. NOW WE'LL START OUT WITH THEIR ORANGE CUTTING PAD

AND JUST A LITTLE BIT OF THEIR EXTREME COMPOUND.

I'LL BEGIN WITH THE TORQUE 22-D ON LOW.

AND ONCE I HAVE GOOD COVERAGE I KICK UP THE ORBITAL SPEED TO 40, AGAIN USING A CROSS MOTION PATTERN RUNNING THE LENGTH OF THE PANEL. THIS CHEMICAL GUYS POLISHER HAS NO TRIGGER, WHICH MEANS NO HAND FATIGUE ON BIG PROJECTS. AND THE DIGITAL READ OUT TAKES THE GUESS WORK OUT OF MAINTAINING A CONSISTENT SPEED. ONCE WE'VE GOT A NICE SHINE OVER THE AREA, WE CAN SWAP TO THE WHITE PAD AND POLISH COMPOUND. NOW THIS WILL KEEP BRINGING UP THE GLOSS OF THE PANEL ALONG WITH REMOVING ANY SWIRLS THAT

WE MAY HAVE, AND ONE MORE SWAP TO THE BLACK BUFFING PAD AND THEIR FINAL POLISH. A FEW PASSES WITH THIS ON SLOW SPEED WON'T CUT ANYMORE CLEAR AND WILL JUST GIVE US AN AWESOME SHINE AND PROTECTION. NOW I'LL REMOVE OUR TAPE AND KILL SOME OF OUR LIGHTS, AND WITH THE CAMERA MOVING ACROSS THE HOOD YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE DIFFERENCE.

UNTOUCHED ON THE RIGHT SHOWS THE PATTERN OF THE CLEAR COAT RIGHT OUT OF THE GUN, AND THE LEFT SIDE A FLAT, SMOOTH, MIRROR FINISH. NOW THIS SECTION TOOK ABOUT 45 MINUTES, AND WELL FOR THE REST OF THE TRUCK IT'LL TAKE A MINIMUM OF PROBABLY ABOUT 40 HOURS. SO WHO WANTS TO HELP?

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT HOW TO GET FUEL TO THE LT ONE.

(LT)>> WE'RE MAKING GREAT PROGRESS ON OUR '71 C-10 TODAY. WE HAVE OUR STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST ALL DONE AND WHEN I PUT THE BED BACK ON ALL I HAVE TO DO IS CUT A NOTCH AND RUN THE EXHAUST OUT THE SIDE. SO NOW WE'LL TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE FUEL SYSTEM. NOW MOST EFI ENGINES REQUIRE BETWEEN 40 AND 50

POUNDS OF FUEL PRESSURE TO RUN PROPERLY, BUT OUR LT ONE IS A LITTLE BIT UNIQUE. IT NEEDS 70 POUNDS OF PRESSURE AT THE INLET OF

THE HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP. SO WE COULD JUST RUN AN EXTERNAL ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP AND MOUNT IT TO THE FRAME, BUT THEY ARE

USUALLY VERY NOISY, AND SOMETHING YOU DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO LISTEN TO EVERY SINGLE DAY. SO WE FOUND SOMETHING BETTER. BECAUSE WE HAVE A FUEL TANK THAT WAS DESIGNED FOR CARBURETED APPLICATIONS WE REALLY NEED MORE THAN JUST A FUEL PUMP.

WE NEED A WAY TO HOLD IT INSIDE THE TANK, AND THIS IS THE AEROMOTIVE PHANTOM IN TANK FUEL SYSTEM, AND THE HEAR TO FIT IS THIS PUMP THAT'S GOOD FOR ABOUT 700 HORSEPOWER. SO WE KNOW WE'RE COVERED ON OUR LITTLE LT ONE. IT ALSO COMES WITH THIS TRICK ALUMINUM FUEL HAT THAT HAS DASH SIX PORTS FOR FEED, RETURN, AND THE VENT. THIS SYSTEM WILL WORK WITH TANK BETWEEN SIX

AND 11 INCHES DEEP. PLUS THE OPTIONAL EXTENDERS ARE AVAILABLE FOR TANKS DEEP THAN THAT. IT ALSO COMES WITH THIS PRETTY TRICK BAFFLE SYSTEM

THAT'LL KEEP THE PUMP FULLY SUBMERGED IN FUEL EVEN UNDER HARSH ACCELERATION, CORNERING, AND BRAKING CONDITIONS, AND THE FIRST STEP FOR US IS TO MAKE A HOLE IN THAT TANK. FIND A LOCATION FOR THE PUMP IN THE DEEPEST PART OF THE TANK BETWEEN THE BAFFLES. USE A HOLE SAW TO CUT THE OPENING AND DEBURR THE EDGES. USE THE SUPPLIED FIXTURE TO DRILL TWO HOLES, SLIDE IN THE ALIGNMENT SCREWS, AND DRILL THE REMAINING HOLES. BE SURE TO CLEAN OUT ALL THE METAL SHAVINGS FROM THE TANK. MEASURE THE DEPTH OF THE TANK AND IF NECESSARY TRIM THE BAFFLE. OURS WAS 11 INCHES DEEP, SO NO TRIMMING REQUIRED. THE FIXTURE ALSO ACTS AS A GUIDE TO

SLIDE IN THE BAFFLE.

NEXT SLIDE THE RETAINING RING INTO THE TANK AND THE STUDS UP THROUGH THE HOLES. WE NOW HAVE TO ASSEMBLE THE PUMP HANGER, AND IT DOES HAVE TO BE TRIMMED TO FIT. MARK FOR THE FUEL LINE, CUT TO LENGTH, AND ATTACH IT WITH THE CLAMP. LASTLY SECURE THE PUMP TO THE HANGER. SLIDE THE SUPPLIED GASKET OVER THE STUDS, DROP IN THE PUMP, AND TIGHTEN IT DOWN.

FINISH UP BY ATTACHING THE FUEL LINE. WHEN RESTORING YOUR CLASSIC CHEVY TRUCK THERE'S A LOT OF SMALL, HARD TO FIND PIECES THAT CAN MAKE OR BREAK YOUR RESTORATION, AND BROTHERS TRUCKS IS THE PLACE TO GO WHEN YOU NEED THOSE PARTS, LIKE THESE FOR THE '54 TO '55 CHEVY WINDSHIELD WIPER SYSTEM. YOU CAN START WITH A 12 VOLT ELECTRIC MOTOR THAT REPLACES THE UNRELIABLE VACUUM STYLE FROM THE FACTORY. YOU CAN ALSO GET NEW WINDSHIELD WIPER

TRANSMISSION ARMS THAT COME WITH NEW BUSHINGS AND SPLINES, WIPER ARMS, AND EVEN THE FACTORY STYLE WIPER BLADES TO FINISH OFF THAT LOOK. YOU CAN GRAB YOURS AT BROTHERS TRUCKS DOT COM.

(JEREMY)>> RUST IS ONE THING THAT FRUSTRATES US CAR GUYS MORE THAN ANYTHING. IT TAKES A TON OF WORK TO REMOVE AND THEN ONCE YOU GET IT GONE YOU QUICKLY HAVE TO TAKE STEPS TO PREVENT NEW RUST FROM FORMING ON YOUR BARE PARTS. THIS IS WORK SHOP HEROES' METAL RESCUE. IT'S A SAFE, NONTOXIC RUST REMOVER BATH. IT'LL REMOVE RUST WITH MINIMAL EFFORT, BUT HOW DO YOU PROTECT THAT BARE METAL? WELL WITH DRY COAT RUST PREVENTATIVE. IT SPRAYS ON AND DRIES TO THE TOUCH. SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANY STICKY RESIDUE AND IT PREVENTS NEW RUST FROM FORMING. AND WHEN YOU'RE READY TO PAINT THIS STUFF EASILY WASHES OFF. VISIT WORK SHOP HERO DOT COM.

(LT)>> WELL IT'S BEEN A PRODUCTIVE WEEK AT THE SHOP. WE'VE GOT A BRAND NEW EXHAUST SYSTEM IN THE C-10 AND WE FINISHED UP THE FUEL PUMP.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH WE'VE GOT THE F-100 WIRED UP AND ALREADY TO GO, AND WE'VE GOT HER CUT AND BUFFED, AND SHE'S LOOKING PRETTY GOOD. NOW NEXT TIME YOU GUYS SEE THIS C-10 WE'RE GONNA FINISH UP THAT RUST REPAIR WE STARTED, GET IT UNDERCOATED, AND MAYBE EVEN DO A LITTLE PAINTING.

(LT)>> I DON'T KNOW, YOU THINK? THAT'S A LITTLE AMBITIOUS.

(JEREMY)>> WELL YOU GONNA STAY AROUND AND HELP THIS TIME?

(LT)>> NO I'VE GOT GREASY HANDS, I CAN'T TOUCH PAINT.

(JEREMY)>> WHEN WE STRIPPED THAT FRAME NOW, YOU WE'RE CRYING ABOUT THAT THE WHOLE TIME.

(LT)>> I KNOW, I'M A BABY.