Klassy K5 Axle Rebuild

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY WE'RE TALKING AXLES, PINION DEPTH, BACKLASH, AND MORE AS OUR KFIVE BLAZER CHASSIS GETS ITS GEARS ON. WE'LL SEAL THE DEAL WITH STEP BY STEP HOW TO ON SWAPPING GEAR SETS. THAT'S ALL RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO THE POWERNATION TECH CENTER. TODAY WE'RE GONNA BE WORKING ON OUR '89 KFIVE BLAZER, SPECIFICALLY THE AXLES. NOW WE ALREADY SWAPPED OUT THE REAR FOR A 14 BOLT FULL FLOATER, AND WE'VE CONVERTED THE ORIGINAL DANA 44 FRONT AXLE TO A SIX LUG. NOW THE BODY FOR THE KFIVE IS SITTING IN THE PREP STATION AND IS BOLTED TO THE ROTISSERIE. WE'RE REALLY CLOSE TO BEING ABLE TO LAY DOWN SOME PAINT AND JAM OUT THE INTERIOR AND THE FIREWALL. NOW JEREMY'S OFF THIS WEEK. SO I'VE ASKED OUR FRIEND JOHN TO COME IN AND LEND US A HAND GETTING IT READY. HEY MAN, HOW'S IT GOING, WHAT ARE YOU UP TO?

(JOHN)>> HEY LT, JUST SCUFFING UP THE INSIDE, GETTING READY FOR SOME COLOR.

(LT)>> COOL, WE PRETTY CLOSE?

(JOHN)>> PRETTY CLOSE!

(LT)>> NOW I'VE SHOWN YOU THE COLOR THAT WE PICKED OUT, IT'S THE BLUE. HOW DO YOU THINK IT'S GONNA LOOK ON THIS CLASSIC BLAZER?

(JOHN)>> IT'S A GREAT COLOR OF BLUE AND I THINK IT'S GONNA LOOK PRETTY AWESOME.

(LT)>> AWESOME MAN, WELL THANKS FOR THE HELP. WELL WE'VE GOT A TON OF PARTS COMING IN EVERY SINGLE DAY. IT KIND OF LOOKS LIKE A MESS AROUND HERE. ALL THIS STUFF IS SHEET METAL AND EXTERIOR PARTS FROM LMC TRUCK. IT'S REALLY GONNA HELP US OUT DRESSING OUT THE OUTSIDE OF THAT TRUCK. NOW THE GREAT THING ABOUT WORKING IN THE TECH CENTER IS THERE'S ALWAYS SOMEBODY AROUND TO LEND US A HAND WHEN WE'RE SHORT STAFFED. SO I'M GONNA GO NEXT DOOR TO DETROIT MUSCLE AND SEE IF ANYBODY'S HOME. HEY GUYS, WHAT ARE YOU WORKING ON?

(TOMMY)>> CHEVELLE, SOMETHING COOL! WHAT ABOUT YOU?

(LT)>> YOU KNOW I DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT COOL STUFF BUT I DO HAVE SOMETHING REALLY HEAVY THAT I NEED LIFTING, WHO'S GAME?

(TOMMY)>> MARC'S BEEN...

(MARC)>> MY BACK'S BEEN...

(LT)>> OH YOUR BACK'S BEEN HURTING?

(TOMMY)>> AND I'VE GOT A BONE IN MY THUMB. I DON'T KNOW IF I CAN HELP YOU OUT WITH THAT OR NOT.

(LT)>> ACTUALLY THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I NEED. I HAVE A BIG, HEAVY FRONT AXLE I NEED LIFTED OUT AND BONEY THUMBS, THEY'LL HELP ME OUT. I'LL BUY YOU LUNCH.

(TOMMY)>> ALL RIGHT, I DO LIKE TO EAT.

(MARC)>> GOOD LUCK!

(TOMMY)>> I'M GONNA NEED MORE THAN THAT BOSS MAN. SO HERO THIS IS YOUR JEWEL IF YOU WILL?

(LT)>> THIS IS IT, THIS IS THE KFIVE.

(TOMMY)>> MAN, SO WHAT'S THE PLANS WITH THIS PIECE OF THE PROJECT IF YOU WILL?

(LT)>> WELL WE DENTED THE FENDER. SO NATURALLY WE DID A RESTORATION.

(TOMMY)>> WELL I GUESS TO GET THIS THING FINISHED WE NEED TO GET STARTED. YOU WANT TO GRAB SOME TOOLS, OR A JACK, OR SOMETHING?

(LT)>> YEAH, I'LL GRAB A JACK, WE'LL GET THIS AXLE OUT.

[ drill spinning ]

(TOMMY)>> YOU READY TO LET IT DOWN?

(LT)>> I'M READY!

(TOMMY)>> YOU WANT IT NICE AND EASY OR LIKE FAST AND HOT?

(LT)>> OH JUST DROP IT. OH HE DID!

(TOMMY)>> THIS IS A ROUGH SPOT AIN'T IT?

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, LET'S GIVE IT A SHOT.

(TOMMY)>> I'VE GOT TO GET UNDER IT.

YOU KNOW WHAT'S THE BEST PART ABOUT THIS?

(LT)>> WHAT'S THAT?

(TOMMY)>> YOU'VE GOT A CRANE. YOU JUST NEEDED COMPANY!

(LT)>> THE REAR AXLE IN OUR BLAZER HAS 4.10 GEARS IN IT, WHICH IS ACTUALLY PERFECT FOR THE SIZE OF TIRE THAT WE PLAN ON RUNNING. THE FRONT HAS 3.08. SO WE DEFINITELY NEED TO REGEAR THE FRONT TO MATCH THE REAR. WE WENT TO YUKON GEAR AND AXLE AND PICKED UP THIS 4.11 TO ONE RING AND PINION SET. NOW ON A DANA 44 4.11 IS ACTUALLY AS CLOSE AS YOU CAN GET TO 4.10, AND THAT MINOR DIFFERENCE IN RATIO ISN'T GONNA GIVE US ANY PROBLEMS. I MEAN I GUESS WE'RE RUNNING IN 100 MILES AN HOUR IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE ON PAVEMENT, WHICH WE AREN'T GONNA DO. SO WE ALSO PICKED UP A MASTER INSTALLATION KIT. IT HAS ALL THE NECESSARY SHIMS, BEARINGS, AND SEALS WE NEED FOR A COMPLETE INSTALLATION. OUT BACK THE ONLY THING WE REALLY WANT TO DO IS ADD TRACTION. SO WE PICKED UP A YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER AND AN OPEN CARRIER TO PUT IT IN. SO I'M GONNA GET STARTED BY TEARING APART THAT FRONT. I'LL START BY REMOVING THE LOCKING HUB, SPINDLE NUT, AND BRAKE ROTOR. NEXT THE TIE ROD AND STEERING STABILIZER ARE REMOVED SO I CAN HAVE ROOM TO UNBOLT AND REMOVE THE DIFF COVER. I'LL TIP THE HOUSING AND DRAIN OUT THE FLUID. UMM, SOUPY! NEXT I'LL REMOVE THE RETAINING NUTS AND PRY OFF THE SPINDLE. NOW THE AXLE SHAFT CAN COME OUT. THE SAME PROCESS HAS TO BE REPEATED ON THE OTHER SIDE SO I CAN REMOVE THE DRIVER'S SIDE AXLE SHAFT. I'LL MARK THE BEARING CAPS SO I CAN REINSTALL THEM LATER IN THE ORIGINAL POSITION. WITH A LITTLE PERSUASION THE CARRIER CAN BE REMOVED FROM THE HOUSING. I'LL FLIP THE AXLE AND ZAP OFF THE PINION NUT. THEN USE AN AIR HAMMER TO DRIVE THE PINION OUT OF THE BEARING. THE YOKE COMES OFF AND I CAN PUNCH OUT THE LARGER PINION BEARING RACE. THESE SPECIAL LONG PUNCHES FROM MATCO MAKE IT REALLY EASY TO REMOVE THE OLD BEARING RACES.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, CHECKING PINION DEPTH!

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH REGEARING THE FRONT 10 BOLT IN OUR KFIVE BLAZER. ONE IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER ABOUT THE 10 BOLT, LEFT HAND THREAD. WITH ALL THE NUTS REMOVED, A FEW GOOD WHACKS WITH A FAVORITE HAMMER REMOVES THE RING GEAR. FRIES ARE DONE!

USING A BEARING SPLITTER AND OUR SHOP PRESS, THE CARRIER BEARINGS ARE REMOVED AND I CAN CLEAN UP THE CARRIER IN THE PARTS WASHER. WITH EVERYTHING NEAT AND SANITARY, I CAN INSTALL THE NEW 4.11 RING GEAR ONTO THE OLD CARRIER, AND SNUG THEM DOWN WITH AN IMPACT.

BACK AT THE SHOP PRESS THE NEW CARRIER BEARINGS ARE PUSHED INTO PLACE.

ALONG WITH A PINION BEARING AND A SHIM.

BACK AT THE AXLE I'M GONNA SCRAPE OFF THE SEALING SURFACE AND CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE HOUSING WITH BRAKE CLEANER. I CAN DRIVE IN THE BIG PINION RACE WITH THIS SOFT ALUMINUM DRIVER, FLIP THE HOUSING, AND INSTALL THE SMALLER FRONT RACE. NOW WE'RE AT THE POINT OF THE REGEARING PROCESS THAT'S GENERALLY CONSIDERED THE MOST DIFFICULT, SETTING THE PINION DEPTH. NOW THERE ARE SOME FANCY TOOLS THAT YOU CAN BUY THAT'LL TAKE SOME MEASUREMENTS DOWN IN THE CASE AND IT'LL TELL YOU EXACTLY HOW THICK OF A SHIM YOU NEED TO INSTALL SO YOU NAIL IT THE FIRST TIME, BUT THOSE TOOLS ARE VERY EXPENSIVE AND YOU TEND NOT TO USE THEM THAT MUCH. I MEAN HOW OFTEN ARE YOU CHANGING GEARS? SO THE ALTERNATIVE METHOD IS TRIAL AND ERROR. I WENT AHEAD AND I PRESSED THE ORIGINAL 40 THOUSANDTHS SHIM IN BETWEEN THE PINION AND THE BEARING. NOW THIS SHOULD ACTUALLY GET US PRETTY CLOSE TO OUR TARGET. SO WHAT WE'LL DO IS WE'LL INSTALL IT IN THE CASE, WE'LL PAINT THE GEAR AND THE CARRIER, THROW EVERYTHING TOGETHER AND RUN A PATTERN CHECK, AND IF WE HAVE TO WE'LL JUST POP IT BACK APART, PRESS THE BEARING OFF, AND ADD OR SUBTRACT SHIM THICKNESS UNTIL WE GET THE RIGHT PATTERN. NOW I'M GONNA CROSS MY FINGERS AND HOPEFULLY WE GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME.

THE PINION COMES THROUGH AND THE BEARING GOES ON ALONG WITH THE YOKE AND NUT, BUT NO CRUSH COLLAR OR SEAL JUST YET. I'LL TIGHTEN IT UNTIL NO PLAY IS FELT. NEXT THE CARRIER DROPS IN, FOLLOWED BY THE CAPS AND THE BOLTS.

I'LL APPLY SOME YELLOW GEAR MARKING COMPOUND TO BOTH SIDES OF A COUPLE OF TEETH, AND ROTATE THE GEARS BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES. THE PAINT WILL WEAR OFF WHERE THE GEARS TOUCHED SHOWING THE CONTACT AREA. NOW I'M ACTUALLY PRETTY HAPPY WITH THE PATTERN THAT WE GOT RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX USING ALL THE ORIGINAL SHIMS. IDEALLY YOU WANT THAT LITTLE WEAR SPOT TO BE CENTERED ON THE FACE OF THE TOOTH OF THE GEAR, BOTH UP AND DOWN AND SIDE TO SIDE. YOUR GEAR SET WILL COME WITH INSTRUCTIONS THAT SHOW YOU ACCEPTABLE PATTERNS AS WELL AS IMPROPER PATTERNS AND HOW TO CORRECT THEM. NOW I CAN TELL BY FEEL THAT THE BACKLASH IS JUST A LITTLE BIT TOO TIGHT, BUT THAT'S OKAY BECAUSE I NEED TO FOCUS ON PINION DEPTH FIRST. BACKLASH IS EASY TO FIX LATER ON. NOW JUST BY LOOKING AT THE PATTERN I THINK IT NEEDS TO BE A LITTLE BIT DEEPER TO THE ROOT OF THE GEAR. NOW THAT MEANS I HAVE TO ADD SOME PINION SHIMS TO GET IT CLOSER TO THE RING GEAR. SO I'LL TAKE THIS THING APART, ADD ABOUT FIVE TO SEVEN THOUSANDTHS WORTH OF SHIM, AND CHECK HER AGAIN. I'LL REMOVE THE PINION NUT AND YOKE, AND DRIVE THE PINION BACK OUT OF THE HOUSING.

OVER AT THE PRESS THE BEARING IS REMOVED...

...A SHIM ADDED, AND THE BEARING IS PRESSED BACK INTO PLACE.

EVERYTHING IS REINSTALLED AND I'LL CHECK THE PATTERN. IT'S RIGHT WHERE I WANT IT, SO WE CAN MOVE ON TO FINAL ASSEMBLY.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, STEERING UPGRADES FOR YOUR FULL SIZE.

(LT)>> WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WE'RE HALF WAY DONE REGEARING THE FRONT 10 BOLT FROM OUR KFIVE BLAZER. I'LL START BY SETTING THE SMALL PINION BEARING ONTO THE RACE, AND DRIVING THE OIL SEAL INTO THE HOUSING. THE PINION IS SLID THROUGH, THE YOKE GOES ON, AND IT'S FOLLOWED BY THE WASHER AND NUT. [ drill spinning ]

(LT)>> I'VE GOT THE YOKE DRAWN DOWN ONTO THE PINION AND WE'RE READY TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT MOST IMPORTANT STEP OF SETTING UP GEARS, PINION BEARING PRELOAD. NOW THAT'S BASICALLY JUST A MEASUREMENT OF HOW MUCH FORCE IT TAKES TO ROTATE THE PINION INSTALLED IN THE HOUSING. IT'S CONTROLLED BY HOW FAR APART THE TWO PINION BEARINGS ARE. NOW EARLIER YOU SAW ME INSTALL A CRUSH COLLAR ONTO THE AXLE. IT'S BASICALLY JUST A SMALL METAL SLEEVE THAT COMPRESSES AS YOU TIGHTEN IT. THE MORE IT COMPRESSES THE CLOSER THE BEARINGS GET, AND THE MORE DRAG THERE IS. NOW HERE'S THE KICKER. YOU CAN ACTUALLY USE THAT IMPACT GUN TO COMPRESS THE CRUSH COLLAR, BUT IT'S VERY EASY TO GO TOO FAR, AND IF YOU DO YOU CAN'T JUST BACK OFF THE NUT AND EXPECT THE CRUSH COLLAR TO SPRING BACK OUT. IT DOESN'T WORK THAT WAY. YOU HAVE TO TAKE EVERYTHING BACK APART AND INSTALL A NEW CRUSH COLLAR. THAT'S WHY THEY GIVE YOU TWO. NOW THE SLOWER BUT MORE ACCURATE METHOD IS DOING IT BY HAND.

A PINION HOLDING TOOL IS SECURED TO THE YOKE, AND A BREAKER BAR CAN BE USED TO SLOWLY TIGHTEN THE NUT, COMPRESSING THE CRUSH COLLAR. I'LL FREQUENTLY CHECK TO FEEL THE DRAG, AND WHEN IT FEELS CLOSE I'LL TAKE A FIRST MEASUREMENT. IT COMES IN RIGHT AT 11 INCH POUNDS, BUT THE SPEC IS 14 TO 19. A QUICK TURN LATER AND WE'RE RIGHT ON THE MONEY. I'LL FLIP THE HOUSING BACK AROUND, AND THE CARRIER CAN GO INTO PLACE ALONG WITH SOME SHIMS. WITH THE DEEPER PINION DEPTH, THE ORIGINAL SHIMS WOULD HAVE BEEN TOO TIGHT. SO I GUESSED AND ADJUSTED IT BY 15 THOUSANDTHS. A DIAL INDICATOR WILL TELL THE TALE. RIGHT ON THE MONEY FIRST TIME OUT OF THE GATE! BACKLASH IS SIMPLY JUST A MEASUREMENT OF THE FREE SPACE IN BETWEEN THE GEARS, AND YOU CAN EVEN HEAR IT AS I WIGGLE THE CARRIER BACK AND FORTH. NOW WE GOT REALLY LUCKY BECAUSE OURS CAME IN RIGHT ON THE MONEY. SPEC CALLS FOR BETWEEN THREE AND SIX THOUSANDTHS, AND WE MEASURED FIVE, BUT HERE'S HOW TO ADJUST BACKLASH IF IT'S NOT CORRECT. IF THE MEASUREMENT IS TOO LOW OR TIGHT YOU SIMPLY MOVE SOME SHIMS AROUND TO SHIFT THE CARRIER AWAY FROM THE PINION, AND THE INVERSE IS ALSO TRUE. IF YOU MEASURE TOO HIGH OR TOO LOOSE, SHIFT IT BACK TOWARDS THE PINION. NOW THIS GEAR SET IS DONE AND READY TO BE COVERED BACK UP. A NEW GASKET SEALS THE DEAL, AND THE ORIGINAL BOLTS HOLD IT ALL TOGETHER. WE HAVE SOME STEERING UPGRADES PLANNED. SO I NEED TO TAKE OFF THE PASSENGER SIDE KNUCKLE. WITH THE TOP AND BOTTOM NUT REMOVED, A COUPLE OF GOOD WHACKS WITH HAMMER AND IT'S FREE. WOO HOO! WE'RE GONNA REPLACE OUR ORIGINAL KNUCKLE WITH THIS FOUR STUD FLAT TOP CONVERSION THAT WE GOT FROM REID RACING. THE REID KNUCKLE INSTALLS WITH OE REPLACEMENT BALL JOINTS AND ACCEPTS MANY COMMONLY AVAILABLE FOUR BOLT HIGH STEER ARMS. THE KNUCKLE WILL ALLOW US TO USE THE ORIGINAL TIE ROD, AND WITH THIS HIGH STEER ARM BOLTED UP FROM SUMMIT RACING WE CAN NOW RUN CROSSOVER STEERING FOR A MORE STABLE RIDE. THE AXLE SHAFT CAN NOW GO BACK IN, FOLLOWED BY THE SPINDLE AND THE BACKING PLATE. THE EIGHT LUG HUB AND ROTOR GO ON, AND NOW THE SPINDLE NUT CAN BE TIGHTENED DOWN, SETTING PRELOAD. A WASHER AND ADDITIONAL NUT MAKE SURE IT WON'T BACK OUT. NOW THE LOCKING HUB CAN GO BACK IN. TO FINISH UP OUR FRONT AXLE WE WENT AHEAD AND GRABBED A SET OF REMANUFACTURED BRAKE CALIPERS, AND WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND FILL THEM WITH THESE EBC TRUCK YELLOW STUFF SPORT BRAKE PADS. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE ADDING SOME BIGGER, HEAVIER TIRES, AND WE'VE ALREADY ADDED A LOT MORE HORSEPOWER. SO WE DON'T WANT TO SKIMP ON ANY SAFETY ITEMS, AND STOPPING POWER IS DEFINITELY IMPORTANT. THESE WILL GIVE US 30 PERCENT MORE BRAKING POWER THAN STOCK, AND THEY WON'T FADE WITH HEAT AFTER REPEATED HEAVY USE.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, LOCKERS IN THE REAR!

(LT)>> DURING THE REBUILD OF OUR '89 KFIVE BLAZER WE PULLED OUT THE ORIGINAL SMALL BLOCK AND THE 700-RFOUR AUTOMATIC. WE WANTED TO REPLACE THEM WITH SOMETHING JUST A LITTLE BIT STRONGER. SO WE INSTALLED A 454 BIG BLOCK AND A FOURL-80 AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION, BUT WE HAVEN'T TALKED ABOUT THE TRANSFER CASE YET. NOW WE COULD SEARCH AROUND AND FIND AN NP-205 OR STEP UP TO AN EXOTIC AFTERMARKET TRANSFER CASE, BUT WITH THE STYLE OF BUILD THAT WE'RE DOING THAT'S REALLY NOT NECESSARY CAUSE WE'RE ONLY RUNNING ABOUT A 35 INCH TALL TIRE. NOW THIS IS THE NP-241 THAT ACTUALLY CAME ORIGINALLY IN OUR KFIVE BLAZER. IT'S A CHAIN DRIVEN TRANSFER CASE WITH A 2.72 TO ONE LOW RANGE, AND AS FAR AS STRENGTH GOES IT'S ACTUALLY PRETTY STRONG. SO WE WANT TO REUSE IT BEHIND THAT FOURL-80, BUT THERE IS ONE SMALL PROBLEM, AND THAT HAS TO DO WITH THE OUTPUT SHAFT ON OUR NEW TRANSMISSION. THE 700-RFOUR THAT CAME ATTACHED TO OUR TRANSFER CASE USES A 27 SPLINE OUTPUT, WHERE THE FOURL-80 USES A 32. SO THE INPUT SHAFT FROM OUR ORIGINAL TRANSFER CASE CLEARLY ISN'T GONNA LINE UP. NOW CERTAIN VEHICLES ACTUALLY CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A FOURL-80 AND AN NP-241. SO WE KNOW THAT THE TWO CAN MATE TOGETHER WITH THE RIGHT PART. WE CALLED UP MONSTER TRANSMISSION AND WE GRABBED A 32 SPLINE INPUT FOR THE NP-241, AND AS YOU CAN SEE THEY'LL CLEARLY LINE RIGHT UP. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO MAKE THIS INPUT WORK IN THAT TRANSFER CASE.

I'LL REMOVE THE TAIL HOUSING, THE SPEEDOMETER GEAR, THE REAR BEARING SUPPORT, THE SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR, AND SPLIT THE HALVES OF THE CASE. THE SNAP RING HAS TO COME OFF SO THE MAIN SHAFT, CHAIN, AND FRONT DRIVE SPROCKET CAN ALL LIFT OUT AS ONE, FOLLOWED BY BOTH SHIFT FORKS. I'LL THROW THE CASE IN THE PARTS WASHER TO CLEAN IT UP AND MAKE EVERYTHING LOOK PRESENTABLE. BACK AT THE TABLE I HAVE TO DRIVE A PLUG AND NEEDLE BEARING INTO THE NEW INPUT SHAFT. THEN I CAN INSTALL A THRUST WASHER INTO THE LOW RANGE PLANETARY. NEXT I'LL INSTALL THE INPUT SHAFT, ANOTHER THRUST WASHER, SPACER, SNAP RING, AND WE'RE IN ACTION. THE PLANETARY ASSEMBLY INSTALLS INTO THE CASE WITH A FEW GENTLE TAPS, AND IT GETS SECURED WITH ANOTHER SNAP RING, AND THE FRONT SEAL CAN BE INSTALLED. I'LL FLIP THE CASE, INSTALL BOTH SHIFT FORKS AND SLEEVES. THEN THE MAIN SHAFT AND CHAIN CAN BE INSTALLED INTO THE CASE ALONG WITH THE SNAP RING. I'LL APPLY SOME SILICONE AND INSTALL THE REAR CASE HALF AND OIL PUMP, THE BEARING SUPPORT AND SNAP RING, THE TAIL SHAFT HOUSING, AND LASTLY THE SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR ASSEMBLY. OUR BLAZER CHASSIS IS COMING TOGETHER, AND WITH THE FRONT AXLE COMPLETE WE'LL TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE REAR. SINCE OUR KFIVE WILL BE A DAILY DRIVEN WEEKEND WHEELER WE NEED TO GET INSIDE THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL AND UPGRADE TO A MECHANICAL LOCKER. THE FIRST STEP IS TO SEPARATE THE RING GEAR. WE'RE GOING TO BE REUSING OUR ORIGINAL RING AND PINION GEAR SET FROM THE 14 BOLT. NOW THE AXLE ORIGINALLY CAME TO US WITH A LIMITED SLIP CARRIER. NOW THE YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER NEEDS TO BE INSTALLED INTO AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. SO WE ALSO HAD TO PICK UP AN OPEN HOUSING FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE. AFTER I GET THIS RING GEAR CLEANED UP WE CAN PUT IT ALL TOGETHER. A QUICK BATH IN THE PARTS WASHER REMOVES ALL THE OLD GEAR OIL AND DIRT. THE FIRST HALF OF THE OPEN CARRIER GOES DOWN AND THE YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER SETS INSIDE. THEN THE OTHER HALF OF THE CARRIER CAN BE SET ON TOP. BOLTS ARE INSTALLED THROUGH BOTH HALVES OF THE OPEN CARRIER AND INTO THE RING GEAR, HOLDING THE WHOLE THING TOGETHER. TIGHTEN THEM DOWN IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN. OVER AT THE PRESS I CAN INSTALL NEW BEARINGS USING AN OLD RACE AS A SPACER. BACK AT THE AXLE THE CARRIER CAN GO IN, FOLLOWED BY THE BEARING CAPS. I'LL USE THE THREADED SIDE ADJUSTORS TO SET BACKLASH, AND CHECK IT WITH A DIAL INDICATOR. WELL EIGHT TO NINE THOUSANDTHS, PRETTY HAPPY WITH THAT! ONCE IT'S SET I'LL INSTALL THE ADJUSTOR LOCKS AND COVER UP OUR NEW LOCKER WITH OUR OLD COVER. WE'VE GOT THAT REAR 14 BOLT LOCKED UP AND SHE'S READY TO ROCK, AND THE FRONT 10 BOLT HAS BEEN REGEARED TO MATCH AND IT HAS SOME NEW BRAKES. NOW I STILL HAVE TO BUILD OUT THE OTHER SIDE AND GET THIS THING CLEANED UP AND THROW ON A FRESH COAT OF PAINT, BUT WE'RE MAKING PROGRESS EVERY DAY. FILLING A HIGH CAPACITY COOLING SYSTEM WHEN IT'S NEW OR AFTER A FLUSH CAN BE VERY TIME CONSUMING. PLUS IF YOU DON'T DO IT PROPERLY YOU MIGHT GET AIR POCKETS, WHICH COULD LEAD TO OVERHEATING. THIS IS A COOLING SYSTEM REFILLER FOR LARGE TRUCKS THAT'S NEW FROM MATCO TOOLS. IT WORKS DIRECTLY OFF OF SHOP AIR AND HAS A BUILT IN HIGH CAPACITY VACUUM GENERATOR THAT'LL QUICKLY FILL YOUR COOLING SYSTEM IN HALF THE TIME. A JOB THAT TYPICALLY TAKES 20 MINUTES WILL BE CUT DOWN TO ABOUT SIX. PLUS THERE'LL BE NO CHANCE FOR AIR POCKETS. YOU CAN ORDER THIS DIRECTLY FROM MATCO TOOLS DOT COM. IF YOU'RE WORKING ON A CLASSIC TRUCK LIKE OURS THEN YOU DEFINITELY WILL NEED SOME AXLE PARTS EVERY NOW AND THEN. WHETHER YOU HAVE A 14 BOLT, 10 BOLT, DANA 60, OR ANY AXLE YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT ROCK AUTO DOT COM. THEY HAVE JUST ABOUT ANY PARTS YOU COULD NEED FOR YOUR AXLE, WHETHER IT BE AN OIL SEAL, A TAPERED ROLLER BEARING, RACES, WHEEL STUDS, REPLACEMENT FULL FLOATING HUBS, OR EVEN UNIVERSAL JOINTS. THEY HAVE FAST AFFORDABLE SHIPPING AND STOCK TONS OF PARTS. FOR YOUR NEXT AXLE REBUILD CHECK OUT ROCK AUTO DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME!