SuperMax Drag Strip Prep

(NARRATOR)>> SO YOU'VE JUST FINISHED REBUILDING YOUR DREAM TRUCK. DYING TO GET HER OUT AND BURN SOME BOLOGNAS? HOLD ON! WE'LL SHOW YOU THE PROPER WAY TO NUT AND BOLT YOUR PROJECT. PLUS TIRE MOUNTING 101, AND PAINTING PLASTIC FOR A FACTORY LOOK. THAT AND MORE RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> OUR BLAZER'S BEEN KICKING AROUND THE SHOP FOR A WHILE ON THESE STOCK SIZE ROLLERS UNTIL WE COULD MAKE A FINAL DETERMINATION ON THE WHEEL AND TIRE PACKAGE THAT WE WANTED TO RUN. TODAY'S THE DAY THAT "KLASSY KFIVE" GETS TO PUT ON SOME NEW SHOES. NOW WITH A FOUR INCH SUSPENSION LIFT THAT WE ALREADY INSTALLED WE'VE DETERMINED THAT WE WANT TO RUN A 35 INCH TALL TIRE, AND SINCE THE BLAZER IS GONNA SPEND THE MAJORITY OF ITS TIME OUT ON THE TRAIL WE WANT TO RUN A MUD TERRAIN, BUT IT HAS TO HAVE A STREET FRIENDLY TREAD DESIGN FOR THAT OCCASIONAL FRIDAY NIGHT TRIP DOWN TO THE CRUISE IN. SO OUR FIRST CALL WE MADE WAS TO GENERAL TIRE, AND WE PICKED UP A SET OF GRABBER XTHREE'S. NOW THEY HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE OPEN TREAD PATTERN THAT'LL GIVE US EXTREME TRACTION IN ALL TYPES OF TERRAIN, WHETHER IT BE SAND, ROCKS, OR IN THE MUD, AND THEY HAVE THESE BIG OPEN CHANNELS THAT'LL HELP THE TREAD STAY CLEAR FROM PACKING UP WITH MUD. NOW WE GRABBED A 35-12.5-20, BUT THE GRABBER XTHREE IS AVAILABLE IN 42 DIFFERENT SIZES RANGING BETWEEN A 15 AND A 20 INCH WHEEL. NOW THE COOL THING IS THESE GENERAL TIRES COME WITH A 30 OR TWOTHIRTYSECOND TREAD WEAR CUSTOMER SATISFACTION TRIAL. WE NEED A WHEEL THAT'S GONNA COMPLIMENT THE FINISHED PAINT SCHEME ON OUR KFIVE BLAZER. ON A CLASSIC CHEVY IT'S HARD TO BEAT THAT OLD SCHOOL CHROME. THESE ARE 20 BY 10 WHEELS THAT WE PICKED UP FROM RBP, AND THEY'RE CALLED "SWAT". THEY'RE AVAILABLE IN A WIDE RANGE OF COLORS AND FINISHES. NOW WE CHOSE CHROME WITH THESE SMALL BLACK INSERTS, AND NATURALLY TO FIT OUR ONE TON AXLES WE CHOSE THEM WITH AN EIGHT ON SIX AND A HALF BOLT PATTERN. LET'S GET THESE BAD BOYS MOUNTED UP. NOW NORMALLY MOST GUYS WHO ORDER WHEELS AND TIRES HAVE TO TAKE THEM DOWN TO THE LOCAL TIRE CENTER TO GET THEM MOUNTED UP, SINCE THEY DON'T HAVE THAT KIND OF SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT IN THEIR OWN GARAGE, BUT DO YOU EVER WONDER WHAT GOES ON BEHIND THE COUNTER AT YOUR LOCAL TIRE SHOP? THERE IS A LOT OF COMPLICATED LOOKING EQUIPMENT, AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU SOME OF THE STATE OF THE ART TOOLS, AND BREAK DOWN THE MOUNTING AND BALANCING PROCESS FOR YOU. WE'RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE HOOKED UP WITH COATS GARAGE AND THEY'VE OUTFITTED THE POWERNATION TECH CENTER WITH ALL NEW TIRE CHANGING EQUIPMENT. BEHIND ME IS A COATS 1,600 THREED TIRE BALANCER, AND THIS IS AN APX-90-E TIRE CHANGER, AND TOGETHER THESE WILL HANDLE NEARLY ANY WHEEL AND TIRE COMBINATION THAT WE BRING THROUGH THE SHOP. THIS CAN CLAMP A WHEEL THAT'S BETWEEN NINE AND 30 INCHES IN DIAMETER THAT'S UP TO 16 INCHES TALL. PLUS WE CAN MOUNT TIRES THAT ARE UP TO 44 INCHES IN DIAMETER. NOW IT HAS THESE ARMS ON THE SIDE THAT WILL HELP COMPRESS THE SIDEWALLS ON THOSE LOW PROFILE TIRES. PLUS IT ALSO HAS A BUILT IN BEAD BREAKER THAT'S DOWN ON THE SIDE. NOW I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO MOUNT AND BALANCE SOME WHEELS, AND WE'LL GET STARTED BY PUTTING IN THE VALVE STEM. A LITTLE LUBE ON THE VALVE STEM HELPS IT SLIDE IN, BY INSTALLING IT WITH THIS VALVE STEM TOOL. NEXT THE BEADS OF THE TIRE NEED A LITTLE LUBRICATION, AND THEY CAN BE POSITIONED ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE RIM. THE MAIN TOWER IS LOWERED INTO PLACE, AND THE DUCK HEAD IS POSITIONED ON THE EDGE OF THE WHEEL. THIS IS WHAT WILL GUIDE THE RUBBER OVER THE LIP OF THE WHEEL. NEXT I'LL USE THIS ROLLER TO HOLD THE SIDEWALL DOWN, AND THE ADJUSTABLE ARM TO HOLD THE BEAD IN THE DROP CENTER OF THE WHEEL. I'LL SPIN THE TABLE AND THE TIRE SLIDES INTO PLACE. NEXT AIR IS PUMPED IN TO MOUNT THE BEAD. WHEN IT MAKES THE POP NOISE, YOU KNOW YOUR HOME. NEXT I'LL INSTALL THE CORE INTO THE VALVE STEM, AND INFLATE THE TIRE TO THE RECOMMENDED PRESSURE. THE COATS APX-90-E HAS THIS BUILT IN LIFTER TO MAKE LOADING AND UNLOADING HEAVY TIRES AND WHEELS A BREEZE, AND IT'LL SAVE YOUR BACK. NEXT UP WE NEED TO BALANCE THE TIRES. SLIDE THE CENTER BORE OF THE RIM ONTO THE SPINDLE, AND USE THE APPROPRIATE SIZE CONE TO CENTER UP THE WHEEL, AND SPIN ON THE NUT TO SECURE IT. WE NEED TO TELL THE MACHINE WHERE THE WEIGHTS WILL GO BY LINING UP THE OUTBOARD LASER...

...AND WITH THE INBOARD MEASURING ARM. CLOSE THE HOOD AND THE MACHINE WILL SPIN THE WHEEL, MEASURING ANY IMBALANCE.

IT WILL POSITION THE WHEEL AND A LASER MARKS WHERE TO STICK THE OUTSIDE WEIGHT, AND THE INSIDE.

GIVE IT ONE MORE SPIN TO CHECK IT, AND WITH A READING OF ZERO THIS WHEEL IS BALANCED. WELL THERE YOU GO. IT'S ACTUALLY PRETTY SIMPLE TO MOUNT AND BALANCE TIRES IF YOU HAVE THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT. NOW I KNOW YOU'RE NOT GONNA GO OUT AND BUY A TIRE MACHINE AND A BALANCER FOR YOUR HOUSE, BUT IF YOU OWN A SHOP THESE STATE OF THE ART PIECES OF EQUIPMENT FROM COATS GARAGE CAN DEFINITELY SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY. NOW FOR YOU GUYS AT HOME WELL IT'S JUST KIND OF COOL TO SEE HOW THE PROCESS WORKS. NOW FOR ME I'VE GOT A COUPLE MORE TIRES LEFT TO BALANCE.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, RIGHTING A WRONG.

(LT)>> ONE OF MY FAVORITE THINGS ABOUT BUILDING VEHICLES IS THAT THERE ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE THEM TO MEET YOUR OWN PERSONAL TASTES, WHETHER IT'S HOW IT LOOKS, HOW IT SOUNDS, OR HOW IT PERFORMS, AND THIS '03 SILVERADO IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF THAT. ALL THE CHOICES THAT WE MADE WERE BASED OFF OF OUR OWN PERSONAL TASTES AND LIKES. EVERYTHING FROM THE COLOR AND THE PAINT SCHEME, THE WHEELS AND TIRES, AND THE PERFORMANCE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD, BUT THERE IS ONE THING THAT STILL DOESN'T LOOK QUITE RIGHT IN OUR OPINION, AND THAT IS UP FRONT. WE'VE ALREADY CHANGED QUITE A BIT ON THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK. WHEN IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY THE LOWER VALENCE WAS GRAY, THE METAL CENTER PART OF THE BUMPER WAS CHROME, AND THE TOP CAP WAS BLACK. NOW THIS HORSESHOE SHAPE ON THE GRILL WAS ACTUALLY GRAY, BUT A DIFFERENT SHADE THAN THE LOWER VALENCE. NOW THE CENTER STRIP ON THE GRILL WAS CHROME, AND THE BOWTIE WAS KIND OF A WEIRD GOLDISH YELLOW COLOR. THERE WAS A WHOLE LOT GOING ON THERE THAT DIDN'T REALLY MAKE ANY SENSE. SO WE ALREADY PAINTED THE GRILL, AND IT LOOKS A LOT BETTER, BUT THIS BLACK BUMPER CAP JUST KIND OF STICKS OUT LIKE A SORE THUMB BECAUSE THERE ARE NO OTHER BLACK THEMES ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TRUCK. NOW I DON'T MIND THE LOWER VALENCE BEING GRAY BECAUSE IT TIES IN NICELY WITH THE BOWTIE, THE HOOD, AND THE WHEELS. SO WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF THIS UPPER BUMPER CAP BY PAINTING IT ORANGE TO MATCH THE REST OF THE TRUCK.

IT IS A BIT DIFFERENT GETTING PLASTIC READY TO PAINT, AND IF THE SURFACE IS PREPARED IMPROPERLY YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO GET THE PAINT TO STICK, AND IT'LL JUST END UP JUST FLAKING OFF DOWN THE ROAD. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU WHAT IT TAKES TO DO IT PROPERLY. NOW SOME OF THE STEPS ARE SIMILAR TO PAINTING METAL, BUT THE FIRST FEW STEPS ARE DIFFERENT, AND THAT'S WHERE IT COUNTS. WHEN PLASTIC PARTS LIKE THIS ARE MANUFACTURED ON THE ASSEMBLY LINE THEY'RE INJECTED INTO A MOLD THAT CONTAINS A RELEASE AGENT SO THEY DON'T STICK. NOW THE PROBLEM IS THAT RELEASE AGENT DOESN'T LIKE TO STICK TO PAINT AND PAINT DOESN'T LIKE TO STICK TO IT. SO BEFORE I DO ANY SCUFFING OF THE SURFACE I'M GONNA CLEAN IT UP WITH A WAX AND GREASE REMOVER. PUT MY GLOVES ON.

INSTEAD OF USING COARSE SANDPAPER THAT WOULD JUST RUIN THE TEXTURE OF THE PLASTIC, WE NEED THE SURFACE TO BE THOROUGHLY SCUFFED WITH A RED SCOTCHBRITE PAD. THIS'LL GIVE THE PAINT SOME MECHANICAL ADHESION, BUT SIMPLY SCUFFING IT ISN'T ENOUGH. NEXT IS PROBABLY THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP OF PAINTING PLASTIC. WE NEED TO GIVE IT SOME CHEMICAL ADHESION SINCE MOST STANDARD PAINTS WON'T STICK DIRECTLY TO PLASTIC. SO WE'RE GOING TO APPLY A COAT OF ADHESION PROMOTING PRIMER. THIS IS A CLEAR PRODUCT THAT WILL CHEMICALLY BOND TO THE BASE PLASTIC, AND GIVE IT A GOOD SURFACE FOR THE NEXT COAT TO STICK TO. IT GOES ON CLEAR AND REQUIRES TWO COATS. AFTER A 10 MINUTE FLASH WE CAN MOVE ON. WITH THE ADHESION PROMOTER LAID DOWN, THE PROCESS FROM HERE ON OUT IS VERY SIMILAR TO PAINTING ANYTHING ELSE, AND I'M GONNA START BY PUTTING DOWN SOME GRAY SEALER. THIS WILL BASICALLY COVER UP ALL THAT BLACK PLASTIC, REQUIRING FEWER COATS OF COLOR TO GET EVEN COVERAGE. NOW AS ALWAYS, FOLLOW YOUR MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDED INSTRUCTIONS FOR MIXING RATIOS AND FOR RECOAT WINDOWS. THIS GRAY CATALYZED EPOXY SEALER MIXES TWO TO ONE WITH ACTIVATOR. [ spray gun hissing ]

(LT)>> AND ALL IT TAKES IS A SINGLE COAT TO COVER UP THE BLACK PLASTIC.

AND AFTER WAITING AN HOUR FOR IT TO KICK OFF, I'LL MIX UP THE "GO MAN GO ORANGE" AT A RATIO OF TWO TO ONE PER THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAXIMUM COVERAGE. YOU KNOW SCIENTIFIC STUDIES HAVE SHOWN THAT IF YOU STIR YOUR PAINT CLOCKWISE, AND THEN COUNTERCLOCKWISE IT LAYS DOWN BETTER. ( )>> REALLY?

(LT)>> NO! I'LL APPLY THREE COATS, WAITING 10 MINUTES IN BETWEEN EACH LAYER. AFTER A 30 MINUTE FLASH TIME FOR THE BASE I CAN MOVE ON TO THE CLEAR. IT MIXES FOUR TO ONE TO ONE. ALL IT TAKES IS TWO COATS AND IT CAN DRY OVERNIGHT.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, FIXING "SUPERMAX'S" WEAK LINK.

(LT)>> WHILE THE PAINT ON OUR BUMPER CAP DRIES I'VE GOT "PROJECT SUPERMAX" BACK IN THE SHOP FOR WHAT I PROMISE WILL BE THE LAST TIME BEFORE WE FINALLY GET THIS OUT ON A DRAG STRIP FOR A PROPER PAYOFF OF THOSE STAGE TWO PERFORMANCE MODIFICATIONS. NOW I'VE GOT ABOUT 100 MILES ON THIS TRUCK SINCE WE PUT IN THE NEW TRANSMISSION, AND I JUST GOT THE FRONT END ALIGNED, AND EVERYTHING ACTUALLY SEEMS TO DRIVE PRETTY STRAIGHT AND SMOOTH, BUT I DON'T WANT ANY SURPRISES. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS WHAT WE USUALLY DO FOR A FINAL NUT AND BOLT INSPECTION OF A PROJECT OF THIS CALIBER.

I'LL GET THE TRUCK UP ON THE LIFT FOR A NUT AND BOLT RECHECK, SPECIFICALLY FOCUSING ON THE SUSPENSION, BRAKING, AND STEERING SYSTEMS. ONE OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS TO USE WHEN BUILDING A PROJECT LIKE THIS IS ACTUALLY A PAINT MARKER. NOW YOU CAN SEE ON THE SUSPENSION AND BRAKES I'VE PUT A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT LINES BETWEEN THE HEAD OF THE BOLT AND WHATEVER IT'S ATTACHED TOO. NOW THIS'LL ACTUALLY DO A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT THINGS FOR ME. NUMBER ONE, IF I HAVE TO PUT DOWN THE PROJECT AND COME BACK IN A COUPLE OF DAYS OR EVEN WEEKS, I CAN QUICKLY TELL WHAT I'VE TIGHTENED AND WHAT I HAVEN'T, AND NUMBER TWO, IF A COUPLE OF WEEKS OR MONTHS GO BY AFTER YOU'VE PUT SOME MILES ON THE PROJECT AND YOU WANT TO GIVE IT A ONCE OVER, YOU CAN QUICKLY TELL IF THE BOLTS HAVE BACKED OUT OR NOT SIMPLY BY LOOKING AT THE MARK. IF IT STILL LINES UP YOU'RE GOOD TO GO. NOW NOT EVERYBODY WANTS TO MARK UP THE BOTTOM SIDE OF THEIR TRUCK, ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE BUILDING A HIGH END SHOW VEHICLE. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU SOME OF THE CRITICAL FASTENERS THAT I ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK BEFORE SHIPPING A PROJECT OUT THE DOOR. I'LL START WITH THE BRAKE CALIPER BOLTS, AS WELL AS THE CALIPER BRACKETS AND THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE UNIT BEARING INTO THE SPINDLE. NEXT ARE THE LOWER AND UPPER BALL JOINT BOLTS AS WELL AS THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLT. BASICALLY ANY FASTENER THAT'S ATTACHED TO A MOVING SUSPENSION PART. WE JUST HAD THE FRONT END ALIGNED AT A LOCAL TIRE SHOP. SO I'M GONNA DOUBLE CHECK THE CAM BOLTS TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE TIGHT. IT'S ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT TO MARK THESE FOR POSITION ON THIS TRUCK BECAUSE THE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE LAUNCHES WE PLAN ON DOING CAN GET PRETTY HARSH. SO I NEED TO BE ABLE TO TELL AT A GLANCE IF THEY GET MOVED. OUT BACK THE IMPORTANT THINGS TO CHECK ARE THE FRONT LEAF SPRING BOLTS, WHICH I ALREADY TIGHTENED BUT FORGOT TO MARK, THE SHACKLE BOLTS, AS WELL AS THE UBOLTS UNDER THE AXLE. CHECKING THE REAR BRAKES I FOUND A SMALL LEAK ON THE RIGHT REAR BRAKE LINE. SO A QUICK SNUG UP SHOULD TAKE CARE OF IT. IF YOU WATCH OUR SHOWS, THEN YOU'LL PROBABLY RECOGNIZE THIS AS THE ORIGINAL STEERING CENTER LINK FROM OUR TRUCK, AND IF YOU LOOK CLOSELY YOU CAN TELL THAT IT'S ACTUALLY BENT. SO HOW THE HECK DO WE BEND A BIG CENTER LINK LIKE THAT ON A THREE QUARTER TON TRUCK? WELL WHEN I TOOK IT OUTSIDE AND DID ITS FIRST SHAKEDOWN RUN I WENT IN THE PARKING LOT AND DID A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE BOOST LAUNCH. NOW WHEN THAT HAPPENS THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK RAISES UP, CAUSING THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE TIE ROD AND THE CENTER LINK TO GET SHARPER. NOW THIS PUTS EXTRA LEVERAGE ON THE CENTER LINK, CAUSING IT TO BEND. NOW WE ALREADY UPGRADED THE TIE RODS. SO THE CENTER LINK WAS THE NEXT WEAKEST PART, AND DURAMAXES ARE NOTORIOUS FOR BENDING AND BREAKING FRONT END PARTS. SO HERE IS HOW WE FIXED IT. THIS IS A STRAIGHT RACE CENTER LINK THAT WE PICKED UP FROM PPE, AND IT'S ATTACHED TO A PITMAN ARM WITH AN OVERSIZED SEVENEIGHTHS INCH PIVOT, AND ON THE OTHER SIDE A BILLET ALUMINUM IDLER ARM WITH THE SAME BIG PIVOT. NOW WHEN WE COMBINE THAT WITH OUR STAGE THREE TIE RODS THAT WE ALREADY INSTALLED, WE SHOULD HAVE BULLETPROOF STEERING. NOW I ALSO HAVE TO LOWER THE RIDE HEIGHT OF THE SUSPENSION JUST A LITTLE BIT BY ADJUSTING THE TORSION ARM BOLTS. THAT'LL GIVE US A FLAT ANGLE BETWEEN THE TIE ROD AND THE CENTER LINK. NOW WITH THE NUT AND BOLT INSPECTION DONE AND OUR UPGRADE TO STEERING THIS TRUCK IS READY TO HIT THE TRACK. WITH THE CLEAR COAT DRIED ON OUR BUMPER COVER WE CAN SNAP IT BACK ON THE TRUCK. WELL I HAVE TO SAY I THINK IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD BEING ORANGE INSTEAD OF BLACK. NOW IF YOU LOOK REALLY CLOSELY YOU CAN SEE THE TEXTURE OF THE PLASTIC STILL COMES THROUGH THE PAINT. NOW I'M OKAY WITH THAT FOR A WORK STYLE TRUCK LIKE THIS, BUT IF YOU WANT IT TO BE PERFECTLY FLAT YOU CAN LAY DOWN SOME HIGH BUILD PRIMER AFTER THE ADHESION PROMOTOR AND BLOCK IT PERFECTLY SMOOTH. FOR ME I'LL GET THE REST OF THIS GRILL TOGETHER.

(NARRATOR)>> AHEAD A FIVE MINUTE FLUSH TO KEEP YOUR INTERNALS HAPPY.

(LT)>> SOMETIMES WHEN YOU'RE OUT ON THE TRAIL DAMAGE CAN HAPPEN, AND YOU'LL BE MILES AWAY FROM A PARTS STORE. SO YOU CAN EITHER HIKE BACK DOWN THE MOUNTAIN, WALK INTO TOWN, AND HOPE YOU CAN FIND A REPLACEMENT, OR YOU CAN FIX IT ON THE TRAIL. FOR EXAMPLE, HERE'S AN ALTERNATOR THAT WAS SHEARED IN TWO THANKS TO A ROCK THAT FLEW UP OUT OF NOWHERE. SO WHAT DO YOU DO? HERE'S A BRAND NEW PRODUCT WE'RE GONNA DEMONSTRATE, THIS LOCTITE 40-60. IT'S A TWO PART HYBRID ADHESIVE THAT'LL BOND TO METAL, PLASTIC, AND RUBBER. PLUS IT SETS UP IN ABOUT A HALF AN HOUR SO WE CAN GET BACK ON THE TRAIL. IT'S ALSO VERY EASY TO USE. JUST TWIST OFF THE CAP AND DISPENSE THE AMOUNT YOU'LL NEED FOR THE REPAIR. IT'S MIXED THOROUGHLY WHEN IT BLENDS TO A CONSISTENT GRAY COLOR. WITH THE SURFACE CLEAN AND OIL FREE, APPLY IT TO THE REPAIR AREA AND BOND THE TWO PARTS TOGETHER. IT SETS UP IN JUST FIVE MINUTES, AND IN ABOUT HALF AN HOUR IT'LL BE STRONG ENOUGH TO PUT THE ALTERNATOR BACK ON. LOCTITE 40-60 HAS INCREDIBLE BONDING STRENGTH, AND IT CAN EVEN BE MACHINED. IN COMES IN THIS CONVENIENT EASY TO USE PACK AND IT CAN BE RESEALED FOR USE LATER ON.

THE DURAMAX DIESEL IS A JOINT VENTURE BETWEEN GENERAL MOTORS AND ISUZU, AND THEY'VE BEEN MANUFACTURED IN MORAINE, OHIO, SINCE 2001 WHEN THEY FIRST STARTED PUTTING THEM IN HD SILVERADOS AND SIERRAS. NOW THERE'VE BEEN SEVERAL DIFFERENT VERSIONS THROUGHOUT THE YEARS, BUT THEY'RE ALL SIX POINT SIX LITER, 32 VALVE, SINGLE TURBO DIESEL VEIGHTS. NOW THEY STARTED WITH THE LBSEVEN, MOVED ON TO THE LLY, AND THE LBZ, WHICH MANY CONSIDERED TO BE THE BEST PREEMISSIONS DIESEL OUT THERE. THEN CAME THE LMM, THE LML, AND LASTLY THE LFIVEP, WHICH WAS JUST INTRODUCED IN THE 2017 TRUCKS. NOW ALL DURAMAX VEIGHTS USE HIGH PRESSURE COMMON RAIL FUEL INJECTION, WHICH MEANS THE TRUCKS ARE GREAT FOR A TOW RIG, A FUEL EFFICIENT DAILY DRIVER, OR EVEN IN HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS LIKE WE HAVE HERE, BUT THERE IS ONE SMALL ISSUE THAT PLAGUED THE EARLIEST DURAMAXES, MAKING POTENTIAL BUYERS JUST A LITTLE BIT WEARY. OUR TRUCK USES THE LBSEVEN, WHICH IS THE EARLIEST VERSION OF THE DURAMAX. POWER NUMBERS COME IN AT 300 HORSE AND 520 POUNDS OF TORQUE. THE COMPRESSION RATIO IS 17.5 TO ONE AND THIS IS ACTUALLY THE ONLY DURAMAX THAT CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A WASTE GATED TURBO. THE LLY'S AND NEWER, THEY ALL CAME WITH A VARIABLE GEOMETRY TURBO. NOW THESE ENGINES ARE PRETTY RELIABLE. THEY CAN REGULARLY GO WELL OVER 300,000 OR EVEN 400,000 MILES WITHOUT ANY MAJOR INTERNAL PROBLEMS, BUT THE LBSEVEN IS KNOWN FOR A PARTICULAR FAULT, AND THAT'S THE FUEL INJECTORS, AND WHEN THEY GO BAD IT CAN BE A VERY COSTLY REPAIR. SO I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SPOT A SET OF FAILING INJECTORS, WHETHER YOU OWN A TRUCK ALREADY OR YOU'RE LOOKING TO BUY ONE.

WHEN YOU FIRST START UP THE TRUCK, LOOK AT THE TAIL PIPE AND PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT COMES OUT. IF YOU SEE GRAY OR BLACK SMOKE THAT MEANS TOO MUCH FUEL IS GOING THROUGH THE ENGINE AND IT COULD BE CAUSED BY A FAULTY INJECTOR. NOW THERE IS A MORE SCIENTIFIC METHOD FOR SPOTTING A FAULTY FUEL INJECTOR. NOW YOU CAN EVEN NARROW IT DOWN TO A PARTICULAR CYLINDER. WHEN I GO TO LOOK AT A TRUCK I ALWAYS BRING AROUND A LAPTOP OR A SCAN TOOL SO I CAN LOG A PARAMETER CALLED CYLINDER BALANCING RATE, OR INJECTOR BALANCING RATE. YOU CAN KIND OF THINK OF IT LIKE A FUEL TRIM FOR EACH INDIVIDUAL CYLINDER. WITH THE TRUCK UP TO TEMPERATURE WE NEED TO FIND THE BALANCING RATES. GM LISTS AN ACCEPTABLE RANGE BETWEEN POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE FOUR CUBIC MILLIMETERS OF FUEL. THE ONLY OTHER THING WE HAVE TO CHECK IS THAT THE TOTAL FUEL RATE COMES IN RIGHT AROUND CUBIC MILLIMETERS. ALL OUR INJECTORS CHECK OUT. NOW I KNOW NOT EVERYBODY HAS THEIR OWN LAPTOP SCAN TOOL, BUT IF YOU'RE GONNA GO BUY A TRUCK BRING ALONG A BUDDY WHO HAS ONE OR GO GET IT CHECKED OUT BY A MECHANIC BECAUSE AN INDIVIDUAL FUEL INJECTOR FOR A DURAMAX CAN COST A COUPLE HUNDRED BUCKS, AND YOU DEFINITELY DON'T WANT THAT SURPRISE REPAIR BILL. OFTEN WHEN YOU'RE LOOKING FOR REPLACEMENT INTERIOR PARTS YOU'RE STUCK WITH BORING BLACK DOOR PANELS OR STOCK LOOKING REPLACEMENT SEATS. LMC TRUCK OFFERS AND ALTERNATIVE TO THE MUNDANE. THIS IS LMC'S EXCLUSIVE SIGNATURE SERIES BY TMI, AND IT'LL DRESS UP THE INSIDE OF ANY '67 TO '72 FULL SIZE CHEVY. THEY'VE GOT THESE GOOD LOOKING TWO TONE BROWN VINYL SEATS AND CENTER CONSOLE. YOU CAN ALSO GET A MATCHING DASH PAD AND DOOR PANELS, AND THE BEST PART IS THIS'LL ONLY COST A FRACTION OF WHAT A HIGH END CUSTOM UPHOLSTERY JOB WOULD RUN. YOU CAN LEARN MORE BY VISITING LMC TRUCK DOT COM. UPGRADING THE BRAKES ON YOUR TRUCK OR SUV HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER WITH THIS STAGE THREE KIT FROM EBC BRAKES. IT COMES WITH A SET OF THEIR GREEN STUFF 6,000 SERIES HIGH EFFICIENCY PADS MATCHED WITH A PAIR OF THEIR SPOT DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS THAT ARE VENTED FOR COOLER BRAKING. NOW THESE WIDE APERTURE SLOTS WILL HELP BRING AIR UNDER THE BRAKING SURFACE TO QUICKLY REMOVE DUST, DIRT, AND DEBRIS. THEY COME WITH A 10,000 MILE, 12 MONTH WARRANTY, AND YOU CAN FIND YOUR APPLICATION AT EBC BRAKES DOT COM.

KEEPING THE INSIDE OF YOUR ENGINE CLEAN IS SUPER IMPORTANT, AND IF YOUR TRUCK HAS HIGHER MILES ON IT LIKE THIS ONE, SLUDGE AND VARNISH CAN SOMETIMES BUILD UP INSIDE THE ENGINE, CAUSING STICKY VALVE LIFTERS OR EVEN PISTON RINGS. MOTOR MEDIC MOTOR FLUSH IS A QUICK AND EASY WAY TO CLEAN OUT THE INSIDE OF YOUR ENGINE, AND IT'S SUPER SIMPLE TO USE. MOTOR MEDIC CAN IMPROVE OIL CIRCULATION, REMOVE ENGINE DEPOSITS, AND YOU CAN USE IT BEFORE EVERY OIL CHANGE FOR BEST RESULTS, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY IT WON'T CAUSE DAMAGE TO BEARINGS OR SEALS. NOW ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS LET THE TRUCK IDLE FOR FIVE MINUTES AND CHANGE THE OIL LIKE NORMAL. TO KEEP THAT HIGH MILE RIG ON THE ROAD GRAB A BOTTLE OF MOTOR MEDIC MOTOR FLUSH. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.