How to Fab a Flat Bed

(ANNOUNCER)>> FROM THE EMPTY SKELETON OF A TIRED OLD

TOW TRUCK TO A FULLY LOADED CRAWLER HAULER. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD OUR ISUZU GETS A CUSTOM FLAT BED, HEAVY DUTY DRIVETRAIN, AND MORE. PLUS WE'LL TUNE OUR WELDER FOR STRONG, GOOD LOOKING BEADS, AND GET SOME EXPERT ADVICE ON BUILDING OUR RALLY CAR.

(IAN)>> WELCOME TO THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. AS USUAL WE'VE GOT A PILE OF WORK TO TAKE CARE OF TODAY. WE'RE GONNA START BY JUMPING BACK ON OUR CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT. THE DAKAR RALLY INSPIRED TOW RIG THAT'LL NOT ONLY CARRY OUR BUGGIES TO THE TRAILS, BUT IT'LL HAVE EVERYTHING THAT WE NEED TO KEEP THEM RUNNING ONCE WE GET THERE. NOW WE'VE ALREADY CONVERTED THIS ISUZU NPR OVER TO FOUR WHEEL DRIVE USING FORD SUPER DUTY AXLES. AND I'VE DROPPED A CUMMINS SIXBT ENGINE IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS. NOW TODAY I WANT TO START BUILDING THE FLAT BED THAT WILL CARRY THE CARS TO THE TRAILS. BUT BEFORE I DO THAT I NEED TO DO A LITTLE BIT MORE WORK ON THE DRIVETRAIN JUST TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S GONNA CLEAR.

FOR OUR CRAWLER HAULER I'VE CHOSEN AN ALLISON 1,000 FIVE SPEED ELECTRONICALLY CONTROLLED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. NOW IT'S PERFECT FOR OUR RIG BECAUSE IT'S DESIGNED TO BE USED IN HEAVY DUTY TRUCKS. THE PROBLEM IS IT WAS NEVER INSTALLED FROM THE FACTORY BEHIND A CUMMINS ENGINE. SO I GOT A COMPLETE CONVERSION KIT TO MAKE IT WORK FROM DSTROKE. IT COMES WITH A NEW BILLET ALUMINUM ADAPTER PLATE, A NEW FLEX PLAT TO MOUNT ONTO THE CRANK SHAFT, AND A BRAND NEW TORQUE CONVERTER WITH THE CORRECT OFF SET AND BOLT PATTERN TO MAKE THE WHOLE SYSTEM WORK TOGETHER.

NOW DSTROKE CAN BEST BE DESCRIBED AS A DRIVETRAIN SOLUTIONS COMPANY BECAUSE THEY SPECIALIZE IN SOLVING PROBLEMS LIKE THIS FOR ALL THREE MAJOR MAKES. OUR ADAPTER PLATE SIMPLY BOLTS ONTO THE BLOCK, AND THE NEW FLEX PLATE IS INSTALLED USING SOME ARP FASTENERS WITH RED LOCTITE.

AFTER POURING A QUART OF ROYAL PURPLE MAX ATF INTO OUR NEW TORQUE CONVERTER, WE INSTALL IT LISTENING FOR THREE DISTINCT THUDS.

FINALLY OUR ALLISON TRANSMISSION CAN BE INSTALLED.

NOW THE REASON WE NEED THE TRANSMISSION IN PLACE BEFORE WE START BUILDING THE FLAT BED IS CAUSE WE WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S NOT GONNA GET IN THE WAY OF ANY OF HE CROSS MEMBERS. NOW THIS IS A LADDER TYPE FRAME AND WE'VE ALREADY REMOVED ONE CROSS MEMBER TO MAKE ROOM FOR THIS DRIVETRAIN AND I MAY HAVE TO GO AHEAD AND MOVE PART IF NOT ALL OF THIS SECOND CROSS MEMBER. I WILL HAVE TO GET THAT STRUCTURE BACK INTO THE

FRAME AND I'M GOING TO DO IT WITH THE FLAT BED. IT'LL BE MOUNTED DIRECTLY ONTO THE FRAME WITH RIGID MOUNTS. AND BY PUTTING A STRAIGHT EDGE ACROSS THESE TWO RAILS, I CAN SEE THAT I CAN CHEAT ONE CROSS MEMBER ALL THE WAY UP TO ALMOST THE BELL HOUSING. PRETTY MUCH CLOSE TO WHERE THIS ONE CROSS MEMBER WAS WHEN WE REMOVED IT. IF WE DIDN'T HAVE THE TRANSMISSION IN PLACE I WOULDN'T HAVE KNOWN IF I HAD THE CLEARANCE THAT I NEED. NOW IT'S ACTUALLY GONNA MAKE THE WHOLE TRUCK STRONGER BY RIGID MOUNTING THE FLAT BED. NOW ONCE IT'S IN PLACE, REMOVING THIS CROSS MEMBER

WON'T BE AN ISSUE AND OUR DRIVETRAIN CAN HAVE A GOOD HOME INSIDE THIS TRUCK. NOW THAT WE HAVE THIS LOCKED IN PLACE, I CAN GO AHEAD, PULL THIS FUEL TANK OFF, START CUTTING UP SOME STEEL.

SINCE THIS FLAT BED WILL BE HAULING SOME SIGNIFICANT WEIGHT I'M BUILDING IT OUT OF QUARTER INCH WALL STRUCTURAL STEEL. TWO BY THREE CROSS MEMBERS ARE CUT TO BRIDGE THE ENTIRE WIDTH OF THE FLAT BED.

TWO BY TWO QUARTER INCH WALL PIECES WILL MAKE UP THE PERIMETER.

A 10 DEGREE DOVE TAIL ON THE BACK OF THE TRUCK WILL MAKE LOADING AND UNLOADING THE BUGGIES A LOT EASIER.

A COUPLE OF PIECES OF RECTANGULAR TUBING WILL CARRY OUR FRAME UP TO THE CAB.

ADDITIONAL TWO BY THREE PIECES ARE CUT TO REST ON TOP OF OUR TRUCK'S LADDER FRAME AND THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY IS WELDED TOGETHER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE FINALIZE OUR FLAT BED AND

START TURNING THIS WORN OUT FOCUS INTO A

CAPABLE RALLY CAR.

(IAN)>> WE HAVE MADE A LOT OF HEADWAY ON THE FLAT BED

FOR OUR CRAWLER HAULER. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO WHEN YOU BUILD SOMETHING LIKE THIS. THE FIRST IS WIDTH. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S RIGHT AROUND 102 INCHES. THAT'S AS WIDE AS YOU CAN LEGALLY GET, AND WE'RE RIGHT AT THAT LIMIT. WE'LL USE ALL THAT WIDTH IF WE EVERY PUT A ROCKWELL RIG UP ON THIS FLAT BED. NOW THE SECOND IS SERVICEABILITY. NOW I COULD WELD THIS RIGHT TO THE FRAME, BUT THEN IT WOULDN'T BE REMOVABLE IF WE EVER HAD TO TAKE THE BED OFF. SO INSTEAD I'LL AND BOLT IT THROUGH EVERY SINGLE CROSS MEMBER WHERE THEY MEET THAT IBEAM FRAME. NOW THAT'S STILL GONNA GIVE US ALL THE STRENGTH THAT

WE'RE AFTER, BUT AT THE SAME TIME IF WE DO EVER NEED TO

PULL THE FLAT BED OFF WE CAN. NOW I HAVE TO ADD A FEW MORE CROSS MEMBERS IN A FEW KEY PLACES, MAYBE DOWN THE CENTER OF THESE SQUARES, JUST TO STRENGTHEN THEM UP, THERE'S A COUPLE OF THINGS I HAVE TO DEAL WITH FIRST. ONE THING THAT'S BUGGING ME, I'M NOT REALLY HAPPY WITH THE WHEEL BASE. IT JUST SORTA SEEMS TO BE PRETTY FAR FROM THE BACK OF THE FLAT BED TO THE CENTER LINE OF THE REAR AXLE. I'D LIKE TO CHEAT THIS BACK ABOUT FOUR INCHES. I DON'T KNOW EXACTLY HOW I'M GONNA DO THAT YET. I HAVE A PLAN BUT I'M NOT SURE. ONE THING I CAN FIX RIGHT NOW IS THE BACK OF THIS FLAT BED. I DON'T REALLY LIKE HOW IT'S A FULL PIECE OF 102 INCH WIDE RECTANGULAR STEEL. IT JUST DOESN'T LOOK RIGHT. I'VE SEEN CAR HAULERS WHERE THEY BASICALLY SPLIT THAT BACK SECTION LEAVING TWO RAMPS THEN MOVE THE CENTER UP AND ADD SOME LIGHTS IN THERE. IT ACTUALLY LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. SO THAT IS WHAT I'M GONNA DO. I'LL GO AHEAD AND CUT, RELOCATE THAT CENTER BAR, ADD A COUPLE OF CROSS MEMBERS, AND THEN I CAN DROP

ON SOME TREAD PLATE.

BEFORE THE TREAD PLATES CAN BE CUT TO FIT, ADDITIONAL CROSS MEMBERS NEED TO BE CUT AND INSTALLED TO SUPPORT THE FLAT BED FLOOR. THE REAR CROSS MEMBER IS CUT USING A FOUR AND A HALF INCH ANGLE GRINDER WITH A CUTTING WHEEL. THEN THE PIECE THAT WAS REMOVED IS REPOSITIONED, SQUARED, AND WELDED IN.

THEN 10 FOOT LONG SHEETS OF 14 GAUGE TREAD PLATES ARE

LAID OUT ON THE TRUCK AND TRIMMED TO FIT, MAKING SURE THAT ALL THE EDGES OF THE SHEETS LAND ON THE CROSS MEMBER WE INSTALLED BEFORE TO MAKE IT GOOD AND STRONG. THE BEST TOOL TO CUT THIS TREAD PLATE IS A PLASMA CUTTER AND A GOOD STRAIGHT EDGE.

WITH ALL OF OUR TREAD PLATE CUT AND IN PLACE, WE NOW HAVE A SPOT TO PARK OUR BUGGIES WHEN WE TAKE THEM TO THE TRAIL. BUT REMEMBER, THIS IS MORE THAN JUST A FLAT BED HAULING TRUCK. THIS IS OUR DAKAR RALLY INSPIRED SUPPORT VEHICLE. SO WE WANT TO ADD SOME STORAGE UNDERNEATH FOR A BUNCH OF THINGS. WE'LL PUT A GENERATOR UNDER THERE, A BUNCH OF TOOLS, SOME EXTRA PARTS, AND ALSO SOME CREATURE COMFORT ITEMS LIKE THIS ARB FRIDGE/FREEZER COMBINATION. NOW THIS IS MORE THAN JUST A COOLER. THIS IS ACTUALLY A FRIDGE AND FREEZER THAT WILL BE POWERED BY THE BATTERY ON THE TRUCK. WE'LL BE ABLE TO SELECT THE TEMPERATURE THAT WE WANT INSIDE, AND WE'LL BE ABLE TO KEEP FOOD AND DRINKS STORED UNDERNEATH THE BED OF OUR TRUCK FOR AS LONG AS WE NEED TO KEEP THEM FRESH. THE NICE THING IS BY PICKING UP THIS OPTIONAL BED SLIDE KIT THAT I'VE GOT WE'LL BE ABLE TO MOUNT THE FREEZER UNDERNEATH, SLIDE IT OUT WHEN WE NEED TO GET ACCESS TO IT, AND SLIDE IT AWAY WHEN WE WANT IT STORED. BECAUSE THIS STORAGE WILL NOT HAVE TO SUPPORT AS MUCH WEIGHT AS THE FLAT BED, THE STRUCTURE IS BUILT USING SOME TWO BY FOUR .120 WALL RECTANGULAR TUBING. ONCE CLEANED UP AND SQUARED ON OUR SET UP TABLE, IT IS WELDED AND THEN TACKED IN PLACE UNDER OUR TRUCK.

NOW THE UNDER BED STORAGE IS NOT ONLY GOING TO GIVE US A PLACE TO KEEP ALL OF OUR STUFF, IT ALSO REALLY HELPS

FINISH OUT OUR FLAT BED. NO LONGER LOOK LIKE WE'RE GONNA RUN DOWN TO THE FARM AND PICK UP A FEW ROUND BAILS. WE'RE ACTUALLY STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A PROFESSIONALLY BUILT OFF ROAD RACE TRUCK. NOW I JUST TACKED EVERYTHING IN PLACE, AND THE TREAD PLATE IS JUST SITTING ON TOP BECAUSE I STILL HAVE A FEW THINGS THAT I HAVE TO DEAL WITH. I'VE MADE THE DECISION, THE REAR AXLE IS GONNA MOVE. I'M GONNA PUSH IT BACK ALMOST 12 INCHES. NOW THAT DOES MEAN I'LL HAVE TO REBUILD THE REAR SUSPENSION, BUT I'VE GOT A PLAN TO MAKE IT EVEN COOLER. I ALSO NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT I HAVE ROOM FOR ALL MY FUEL TANKS UP FRONT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE TRUCK. THEN I'LL GO AHEAD AND FINISH WELD IT IN. NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS RIG, THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT WE'LL DO. MOVE THE REAR AXLE, BUILD SOME SUSPENSION, THROW A TRANSFER CASE IN, MOUNT A FUEL TANK, ALL THAT AND MORE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, YOUR WELDER IS LIKE ANY INSTRUMENT, IT WORKS BEST WHEN IT'S TUNED UP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> MIG WELDING PART FOUR. I'M SURE YOU GUYS HAVE FIGURED OUT BY THE FACT THAT

I HAVE MY WELDING JACKET ON, MY WELDING GLOVES, AND MY HELMET THAT TODAY WE'RE FINALLY READY TO STRIKE AN ARC. NOW I HAVE A 255 AMP MACHINE LOADED WITH 90/10 SHIELDING GAS AND .035 WIRE. BUT BEFORE I START WELDING I NEED TO TUNE THAT WELDER. THINK OF IT AS WHEN YOU BUY A BRAND NEW CAR. YOU DON'T JUST JUMP IN IT AND START DRIVING. YOU'RE GONNA ADJUST THE MIRRORS, MAYBE THE DRIVER'S SEAT, MAYBE EVEN PICK A FAVORITE RADIO STATION BEFORE YOU HEAD ON DOWN THE ROAD. YOU HAVE TO DO THE SAME THING WITH YOUR MIG WELDER,

ADJUST IT TO FIT YOUR WELDING STYLE. NOW THAT STARTS BY CREATING WHAT'S CALLED WELDING COUPONS.

THESE ARE SMALL SECTIONS OF FLAT PLATE ABOUT SIX INCH LONG.

BEFORE YOU START WELDING THOSE YOU FIRST STOP IS GONNA BE INSIDE THE MACHINE.

MOST WELDERS WILL HAVE A CHART INSIDE WITH THE

SUGGESTED SETTINGS FOR THE THICKNESS OF STEEL YOU'RE GOING TO WELD. NOW THIS IS JUST THE STARTING POINT TO

TUNING YOUR WELDER. I SET THE MACHINE WITH A VOLTAGE OF 20 AND WIRE SPEED OF 370. NOW THE COUPONS ARE TACKED AND WELDED IN A "T". NOW EVEN THOUGH WE HAVE OUR MIG WELDER SET TO THE RECOMMENDED SETTINGS, YOU CAN SEE THAT THIS WELD IS

JUST A LITTLE BIT TOO COLD. IT'S ACTUALLY SITTING RIGHT UP ON TOP OF BOTH PIECES OF PLATE, AND WHEN YOU FLIP IT OVER TO THE BACKSIDE IT'S EASY TO SEE THAT THERE'S NO HEAT PENETRATION INTO THE BOTTOM OF THIS QUARTER INCH STEEL. NOW PROBABLY WHAT'S AT PLAY HERE IS I'M JUST MOVING THE TORCH OF A LITTLE BIT TOO FAST, BUT THAT IS THE SPEED THAT I'M COMFORTABLE WELDING AT. THAT IS WHY YOU FINE TUNE YOUR WELDER. SURE I COULD TRY TO SLOW THE TORCH DOWN AND MAYBE COME UP WITH DIFFERENT SPEEDS FOR DIFFERENT THICKNESSES OF STEEL, BUT IT'S A LOT EASIER JUST TO SET UP THE WELDER A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT, AND THAT WAY YOU DON'T ALWAYS HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT CHANGING HOW YOU MOVE THE TORCH. NOW THERE ARE TWO THINGS THAT YOU CAN CHANGE, THE

VOLTAGE AND THE WIRE SPEED. EACH ONE WILL HAVE A DIFFERENT EFFECT ON THAT BEAD. SO TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF WHAT THEY, WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND MAKE SOME DRASTIC CHANGES TO BOTH THOSE SETTINGS. WITH THE WIRE SPEED TURNED DOWN, YOU CAN SEE THE WIRE NOT FEEDING INTO THE PUDDLE. BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY YOU CAN HEAR THE LAGS IN THE WELD BEAD. WITH THE WIRE SPEED BEING TURNED UP TOO HIGH, YOU'LL BE ABLE TO FEEL THE TORCH BEING PUSHED BACK FROM THE STEEL AND THE WELD WILL SOUND KIND OF SNAPPY. TOO HIGH OF A VOLTAGE WILL CAUSE BURN THROUGH AND

UNDERCUTTING IN THE STEEL.

TOO LOW OF A VOLTAGE AND THE WELD WILL SIT ON TOP OF THE METAL INSTEAD OF PENETRATING INTO IT. SO ONCE YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT EACH CHANGE IN THE MACHINE IS GOING TO DO TO THE WELD BEAD, IT'S EASY TO GO BACK

TO OUR INITIAL BEAD AND KNOW WHAT CHANGES WE NEED TO MAKE. I'M GONNA MAKE TWO CHANGES. THE FIRST IS I'M GONNA DECREASE SOME OF THE WIRE SPEED. THAT'LL TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF THE HEIGHT OUT OF THE WELD. AT THE SAME TIME I'M GONNA INCREASE SOME OF THE VOLTAGE TO GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT MORE PENETRATION INTO THAT BASE STEEL. ONCE I FINE TUNE THE WELDER FOR THIS SET OF COUPONS, I'LL GO AHEAD AND MAKE A NOTATION OF IT, AND THEN I'LL KNOW WHAT TO SET MY WELDING AT FOR WELDING QUARTER INCH PLATE. THEN REPEAT THIS SAME PROCEDURE FOR EACH THICKNESS OR TYPE OF STEEL YOU PLAN TO WELD IN YOUR SHOP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, A GRASS ROOTS RALLY RACING SERIES THAT YOU CAN GET INTO FOR LESS THAN $10,000!

(IAN)>> NOW WE HAVE JUST FINISHED UP PROJECT DIRT CHEAP FUN, OUR LOW DOLLAR OFF ROADER. AND IT'S BEEN A BLAST DOING SOME ROCK CRAWLING IN THIS RIG. BUT TO QUOTE A FAMOUS MOVIE, "RIGHT NOW I'VE GOT THE NEED, THE NEED FOR SPEED", AND I WANT TO GO OFF ROAD RACING. NOW I HAVE NOT WON THE LOTTERY BETWEEN BUILDING

THIS TRUCK AND NOW, SO I DON'T HAVE A LOT OF MONEY TO SPEND. BUT IS THERE A WAY TO GO OFF ROAD RACING CHEAP? WHEN YOU THINK OF OFF ROAD RACING, ONE OF THE FIRST VEHICLES THAT COMES TO MIND IS A TROPHY TRUCK. ABSOLUTELY AMAZING, FLYING THROUGH THE DESERT, MONSTER

HORSEPOWER, INCREDIBLE SUSPENSION, BUT BUDGET FRIENDLY, NOPE! WHAT ABOUT SOMETHING LIKE AN ULTRA FOUR CAR, THE COMBINATION OF ROCK CRAWLING AND DESERT RACING. KIND OF A SWISS ARMY KNIFE OF OFF ROADER, BUT THESE

RIGS ARE AT LEAST 10 TIMES AS MUCH AS OUR BUDGET WHEELER. SO NO AGAIN. WHAT ABOUT A SPEC CLASS SHORT COURSE TRUCK, SOMETHING LIKE A PRO LIGHT? I HATE TO SAY IT BUT THEY ARE OUT OF REACH AS WELL. BUT IS THERE STILL A TYPE OF OFF ROAD RACING THAT'S BUDGET FRIENDLY? WELL WE'VE DONE A LITTLE BIT OF RESEARCH AND WE'VE FOUND IT. IT'S CALLED NASA RALLY SPORT RACING, AND IT WAS FOUNDED BACK IN 2003 BY A GROUP OF RALLY RACERS WHO WANTED TO FOCUS ON DRIVING, NOT SO MUCH EXPENSIVE CARS, LOW BARRIERED ENTRY. HOW LOW? WELL BELIEVE IT OR NOT WE THINK WE CAN GET INTO THE OFF ROAD RACING CIRCUIT FOR RIGHT AROUND $7,000 DOLLARS,

AND WE'LL HAVE EVERYTHING THAT WE WANT. THERE WILL BE DIRT FLYING, AND ENGINES REVVING, AND WE'LL BE RACING OFF ROAD. NOW JUST LIKE WE DID WITH OUR ROCK BOUNCER PROJECT, BEFORE WE GO AHEAD AND START TEARING INTO OUR CAR WE WANT TO CONTACT SOMEBODY WHO ACTUALLY RALLY RACES IN THIS WORLD. SO WE'RE GONNA THROW A SKYPE CALL IN ON OUR MICROSOFT TOUCH DISPLAY TO ANDERS GREEN FROM NASA RALLY SPORT. ALRIGHT ANDERS, LETS START OFF. FIRST OF ALL I SEE YOUR CAR SITTING BEHIND YOU. TELL ME A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOUR RALLY CAR.

(ANDERS)>> THIS CAR IS A '95 SUBARU IMPREZA. I MEAN IT STARTED OUT JUST AS A GROCERY GETTER LIKE ANY OTHER STOCK CAR WOULD.

FROM THERE WE PUT IN THE SIX CYLINDER ENGINE OUT OF ONE OF THE OUTBACKS, AND THEN WE ALSO PUT IN THE SIX SPEED TRANSMISSION FROM ONE OF THE SUBARU STI.

(IAN)>> OKAY, SO WHAT I'VE DONE, I'VE GOT A CAR, I'VE GOT 2002 FORD FOCUS. WHAT ARE THE TOP FOUR OR FIVE THINGS I'M GONNA HAVE TO DO IF I'M GONNA TURN THAT CAR INTO A RALLY CAR? WHERE SHOULD I START?

(ANDERS)>> THAT'S ACTUALLY A PRETTY EASY QUESTION, AND

THE ANSWER IS LEAVE THE MOTOR COMPLETELY ALONE. IT WOULD GET YOU ALMOST NOTHING. YOU COULD BRING OUT 1,000 HORSEPOWER, THE ONLY RESULT WOULD BE YOU'D THROW MORE GRAVEL OUT BEHIND YOU. THE FIRST THING IS GONNA BE ROLL CAGE. THAT'S GONNA BE THE BIGGEST THING THAT YOU NEED TO CONSTRUCT. THE NEXT THING IS YOU'RE GONNA NEED A PROPER RACING SEAT AND THEN SOME PROPER RACING BELTS TO GO WITH IT. THERE'S GONNA BE A FEW OTHER LITTLE THINGS LIKE SOME FIRE EXTINGUISHERS, FIRST AID KITS, BUT THOSE THREE THINGS ARE GONNA BE THE TOP THINGS.

(IAN)>> WELL ANDERS, I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU TALKING WITH US TODAY. YOU KNOW I THINK I'VE GOT A PLAN NOW FOR OUR RALLY CAR,

AND I'M EXCITED. THIS IS LIKE TRUE LOW BUCK OFF ROAD RACING. THIS IS GONNA BE FUN. I LOOK FORWARD TO SEEING YOU IN THE DIRT.

(ANDERS)>> I'M LOOKING FORWARD TO IT. GET YOURSELF REGISTERED.

(IAN)>> ALRIGHT, WE'LL SEE YOU SOON. BUT BEFORE WE CAN GET OUT IN THAT DIRT, WE'VE GOT TO BUILD A RACE CAR. NOW OUR BASE VEHICLE IS THIS 2002 FORD FOCUS. IT'S A FOUR CYLINDER FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CAR. A PERFECT BASE VEHICLE AS AN ENTRY LEVEL RALLY RACER. OUR PLANS, GUT OUT THE INTERIOR, BUILD A CAGE, SLIGHT SUSPENSION UPGRADE, AND THEN WE'LL BE READY TO RACE.