Project: Hocus Focus

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER CHECKING OUT A FEW RALLY CARS WE HAD TO BUILD ONE FOR OURSELVES ON THE CHEAP. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE'LL REVAMP OUR FOCUS WITH AN UPGRADED AIR INTAKE, STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST,

AND AN ENGINE OVERHAUL.

THEN WE'LL TAKE IT FOR A TEST DRIVE.

(IAN)>> THIS IS GONNA BE A GOOD TIME.

(ANNOUNCER)>> PLUS OUR CRAWLER HAULER GETS A HEAVY DUTY WINCH. AND WE'LL SHOW YOU A CHEAP AND EASY WAY TO KEEP YOUR RIG ROLLING WHEN THE AXLE BREAKS.

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA KICK THINGS OFF TODAY IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP BY TEARING BACK INTO OUR 2002 FORD FOCUS RALLY RACE CAR. WE'RE PREPPING THIS VEHICLE TO COMPETE IN THE NASA RALLY SPORT RACE SERIES, AND OUR WHOLE GOAL IS TO GET ONTO THE TRACK FOR LESS THAN $10,000 DOLLARS. TODAY WE'RE GONNA JUMP UNDERNEATH THE HOOD AND WORK ON THE MOTOR. WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND THROW SOME PERFORMANCE PARTS

AT THIS ENGINE TO GET A LITTLE BIT EXTRA HORSEPOWER OUT OF IT. BUT BEFORE WE DO ANY OF THAT, WE'RE GONNA DO THE SAME THING WE DID WITH THE SUSPENSION BEFORE WE UPGRADED IT. WE HAD TO LOOK TO MAKE SURE IT WAS WORTH UPGRADING. AFTER A THOROUGH INSPECTION OF OUR SUSPENSION BOTH FRONT AND REAR WE FOUND A FEW ITEMS THAT WERE WORN PAST SPEC. AFTER REPLACING BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARMS UP FRONT AND INNER AND OUTER TIE RODS, WE UPGRADED THE SUSPENSION ALL THE WAY AROUND, NEW SPRINGS, SHOCKS, STRUTS, AND HEAVY DUTY SWAY BARS. TO EVALUATE THE ENGINE I'M GONNA START WITH A SIMPLE COMPRESSION TEST. WITH THE SPARK PLUGS REMOVED, THE COIL PACK UNPLUGGED, AND THE FUEL PUMP RELAY DISCONNECTED, THE KEY IS CYCLED AND THE ENGINE IS ROLLED OVER THREE ROTATIONS. EACH CYLINDER IS CHECKED AND RECORDED. THE FOCUS ENGINE IS A DUAL OVERHEAD CAM ENGINE THAT USES A TIMING BELT. I'LL PULL THE UPPER COVER TO INSPECT THE BELT AND MAKE SURE IT'S OKAY. THEN I'LL DRAIN THE ENGINE OIL AND STRAIN IT USING A

PAINT FILTER, AS WELL AS PULL THE OIL FILTER OFF AND CUT IT OPEN TO INSPECT IT.

GOOD, NO OBVIOUS METAL IN IT, THERE'S NO SHINNY SPARKLY BITS. IF THE MOTOR WAS GOING SOUTH THIS THING WOULD BE ALL PACKED UP WITH WHAT LOOKS LIKE METALLIC PAINT. SO AFTER OUR THOROUGH INSPECTION I'VE DETERMINED THIS ENGINE IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND READY TO RACE. NOW WE HAVE GOOD COMPRESSION ACROSS ALL FOUR CYLINDERS AND MORE IMPORTANTLY THEY'RE ALL EVEN, WHICH IS A SIGN OF A GOOD WEARING ENGINE. THE OIL LOOKED GOOD AND OUR TIMING BELT LOOKS FINE. NOW SURE, I COULD PROBABLY JUST THROW THE STOCK PLUGS

BACK IN IT AND PLUG IN THESE WIRES. BUT HONESTLY THIS IS A GREAT TIME TO JUST GO AHEAD, GIVE THE CAR A GOOD TUNE UP. IT DOESN'T COST THAT MUCH MONEY AND IT'S GOOD INSURANCE. OUR ENGINE TUNE UP WILL INCLUDE NEW SPARK PLUG WIRES, NEW PLUGS, AND A NEW FUEL FILTER.

WE'LL SPIN ON A NEW ROYAL PURPLE OIL FILTER AND TOP OFF OUR ENGINE WITH SOME XPR FIVEW20.

SO WITH A GOOD FOUNDATION TO WORK ON, WE CAN START THROWING SOME PERFORMANCE GOODIES AT OUR

FORD FOCUS ENGINE. NOW BEFORE WE STARTED BUILDING THIS CAR, WE PUT A SKYPE CALL IN TO ANDERS GREEN FROM NASA RALLY SPORT, AND I SPECIFICALLY ASKED HIM WHAT TYPE OF PERFORMANCE UPGRADES WE SHOULD DO TO OUR CAR.

(ANDERS)>> THAT'S ACTUALLY A PRETTY EASY QUESTION, AND

THE ANSWER IS LEAVE THE MOTOR COMPLETELY ALONE, IT WOULD GET YOU ALMOST NOTHING. YOU COULD BRING OUT 1,000 HORSEPOWER, THE ONLY RESULT WOULD BE YOU'D THROW MORE GRAVEL UP BEHIND YOU.

(IAN)>> BUT EVEN WITH THAT ADVICE, IT'S NOT GONNA HURT US TO THROW A FEW POWER ADDERS AT OUR FOCUS. WE'VE GOT A BUDGET OF $10,000 DOLLARS AND WE HAVEN'T EVEN GONE OVER $3,000 YET. AND BESIDES, IT'S JUST NOT GONNA BE THE SAME RIPPING THAT CAR THROUGH THE WOODS IF IT DOESN'T

SOUND LIKE A RACE CAR. NOW I PICKED UP A PACKAGE OF PERFORMANCE GOODIES ALL FROM SUMMIT RACING. IT'S GONNA START UNDERNEATH THE HOOD WITH A COLD AIR INTAKE SYSTEM AND A HIGH FLOW CERAMIC COATED HEADER. NOW THE HEADER WILL OBVIOUSLY FLOW MORE EXHAUST GAS OUT OF THE CAR AND THE COLD AIR KIT WILL ALLOW COLDER AIR TO GET INTO THE MOTOR TO HELP US BUILD A LITTLE BIT MORE POWER. THE NICE THING ABOUT THIS COLD AIR KIT IS IT USES WHAT'S CALLED A DRY CORE FILTER ELEMENT. THERE'S NO OIL ON THIS FILTER, AND THAT'LL JUST KEEP IT FROM PACKING UP WITH DUST WHEN WE'RE RUNNING THROUGH THOSE DUSTY RALLY ROADS.

THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD IS REMOVED FROM THE CYLINDER HEAD, AND THE NEW JBA HEADER IS INSTALLED.

OUR COLD AIR KIT CHANGES THE LOCATION OF THE AIR FILTER TO UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY.

AND WITH THE LOWER TUBE ANCHORED TO THE RADIATOR SUPPORT I CAN INSTALL THE MASS AIR FLOW METER INTO THE UPPER INTAKE PIPE.

I'LL CUT OUT OUR STOCK EXHAUST AND INSTALL A BRAND NEW FREE FLOWING FULL STAINLESS STEEL CAT BACK SYSTEM.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER ALL OF THE UPGRADES ON OUR RALLY CAR, HOW DOES IT PERFORM ON THE ROAD?

WE'LL FIND OUT!

(IAN)>> SO FAR WE'VE MADE PRETTY GOOD HEADWAY ON OUR FORD FOCUS RALLY CAR, AND BEFORE I TEAR THE INTERIOR APART TO BUILD A ROLL CAGE I WANT TO TAKE IT

OUT FOR A TEST DRIVE. NOW BEFORE I PUT IT ON THE STREET I WANT TO FRESHEN UP THE BRAKES ALL THE WAY AROUND. I RAN DOWN TO OUR LOCAL AUTOZONE AND I PICKED UP JUST A BUNCH OF FACTORY REPLACEMENT PARTS, TWO NEW DRUMS, NEW ROTORS, NEW BRAKE SHOES AND PADS FOR THE FRONT AS WELL AS A HARDWARE KIT FOR THE INSTALLATION. NOW ONCE I HAVE THESE BOLTED ONTO OUR CAR, I'LL TOSS THE TIRES BACK ON THEM AND WE'LL TAKE IT FOR A LITTLE DRIVE. THE NEW ROTOR SLIPS OVER THE STOCK WHEEL BEARING AND THE DURALAST GOLD BRAKE PADS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE CALIPER. THE CALIPER SLIDERS ARE CLEANED AND SOME ANTISEIZE IS APPLIED TO PREVENT THE PADS FROM STICKING. THEN THE CALIPER CAN BE INSTALLED AND BOLTED UP. OUT BACK WE'LL DISASSEMBLE THE REAR DRUM BRAKE SYSTEM, CLEAN THE BACKING PLATE, AND APPLY SOME ANTISEIZE. BOLT UP SOME NEW SHOES AND FINISH IT OFF WITH A BRAND NEW BRAKE DRUM.

AFTER REBUILDING OUR LITTLE FORD WITH FRESH BRAKES, SUSPENSION, AND EXHAUST, WE DECIDED TO TAKE IT ON A LITTLE TEST DRIVE TO SEE HOW PROJECT HOCUS FOCUS HANDLES THE ROAD. FIRST OFF, HOW WELL DOES IT STOP?

BRAKES, OH MY GOSH. BRAKES WORK, HOLY COW THE BRAKES WORK.

IT SOUNDS SILLY BUT IT'S FUN TO DRIVE CAUSE IT'S SO LITTLE. IT'S ALL NIMBLE AND QUICK, IT'S LIKE WHEW, WHEW, WHEW! LETS SEE IF WE CAN PULL A TANNER FOUST WITH THIS THING, HERE WE GO. OH YOU CAN, YOU TOTALLY CAN, OH MY GOSH, THAT'S SO MUCH FUN! THERE'S $3,000 DOLLARS IN THIS CAR AND I AM HAVING A BLAST TESTING AND TUNING AT 35 MILES AN HOUR, LOVE IT! HOW DO OUR NEW SWAY BARS HANDLE SOME CURVES. IT'S STIFFER, IT'S CRAZY HOW MUCH STIFFER IT IS. THE SUSPENSION IS LIKE, YOU FEEL IT, YOU FEEL THE BUMPS. I LIKE THAT THOUGH!

I MEAN EVEN JUST DOING THIS STUFF, JUST TESTING AND TUNING, I MEAN YOU FEEL, I'M NOT EVEN DOING 35 MILES AN HOUR AND I FEEL LIKE I'M RACING SOMEBODY, I LOVE IT! BUT THIS PROJECT ISN'T BUILT FOR PAVEMENT POUNDING. MOST RALLYS ARE ON GRAVEL ROADS. SO IT'S TIME TO SLING SOME ROCKS. WE MIGHT NOT HAVE THE FASTEST CAR OUT THERE, BUT IT SURE IS FUN POPPING THE EBRAKE GOING AROUND A FEW CORNERS. WHETHER WE'RE IN THE GRAVEL OR ON THE ROAD, THIS FORD FOCUS RALLY CAR IS SUPER FUN.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WANT TO SPEND MORE TIME WHEELING AND LESS TIME WORKING? YOU'LL NEED STRONGER AXLES.

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA FINISH UP TODAY BY WORKING ON OUR CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT. NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE LAST TIME WE WORKED ON THIS RIG WE HAD A PROBLEM. I HAD TO COMPLETELY REBUILD THIS BACK SECTION OF OUR TUBE BED BECAUSE THE FLAT BED WAS CONTACTING THE TIRES. NOW THE REASON THAT HAPPENED WAS BECAUSE WE DITCHED THE REAR LEAF SPRINGS AND BUILT A CUSTOM SUSPENSION USING FOUR LINK AND AIR BAGS. AND NOW WHEN THE BAGS COMPLETELY DEFLATE, THERE'S

PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE TIRE INSIDE THIS NEW WHEEL WELL SECTION THAT I'M BUILDING. NOW I BUILT IT A LITTLE EXTRA TALL FOR GOOD REASON. I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT EVEN WHEN THE BAGS ARE FULLY DEFLATED WE COULD STILL DRIVE THE TRUCK DOWN

THE ROAD IF WE HAD TO. THAT WAY IF WHEN WE HAVE A LOAD IN THE BACK WE CUT A BAG ON THE HIGHWAY SOMEWHERE WE WON'T BE STRANDED BECAUSE THE TIRES ARE WEDGED UP INTO THIS NEW AREA IN THE BED. BY GIVING ME A LITTLE BIT OF EXTRA SPACE LIKE THIS, I WILL STILL BE ABLE TO DRIVE THE TRUCK EVEN THOUGH IT MAY LOOK A LITTLE FUNNY. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS BUILD THE OTHER WHEEL WELL, PLATE THEM, AND THEN OUR BED WILL BE FINISHED.

OUR WHEEL WELL WILL BE BUILT USING THE SAME MATERIAL AS

THE REST OF OUR BED.

TWO BY TWO QUARTER INCH WALL TUBING SO THEY CAN HANDLE THE WEIGHT OF A ROCK CRAWLER CRAWLING OVER THEM.

ONCE THEY'RE TACKED IN PLACE, I'LL ADD SOME FILLER

PIECES AND A CENTER BAR FOR THE TIRE TO DRIVE ON.

THEN FULLY WELD THEM IN, AND WE'LL FINISH OFF OUR FLAT BED WITH SOME NEW PIECES OF 14 GAUGE TREAD PLATE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STRANDED ON THE TRAIL? YOU WON'T BE AFTER TODAY'S XTREME OFF ROAD TRAIL TIP.

(IAN)>> A COMMON FAILURE POINT WHEN YOU'RE WHEELING A JEEP WITH A STOCK FRONT AXLE IS THE AXLE JOINT. THE ISSUE IS IF YOU TRY TO DRIVE THE JEEP HOME FROM THE TRAIL WITH THAT BROKEN JOINT, THE TIRE AND WHEEL ARE STILL GOING TO ROTATE THE INNER AND OUTER SHAFT. THE EARS WILL SMASH TOGETHER AND IT WILL CAUSE MORE DAMAGE TO THE SHAFTS TRYING TO GET THE VEHICLE HOME TO FIX IT. BUT THERE IS A TRAIL FIX THAT YOU CAN PERFORM THAT WILL ALLOW YOU TO DRIVE YOUR JEEP BACK TO THE SHOP AND NOT DAMAGE YOUR AXLES. WITH THE TIRE AND WHEEL OFF OF THE JEEP, WE'LL REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER AND ROTOR, UNBOLT THE UNIT BEARING, AND PULL OUT THE ENTIRE AXLE SHAFT. THE OUTER STUB AXLE MUST STAY BOLTED THROUGH THE UNIT BEARING TO KEEP IT FROM SEPARATING WHILE DRIVING. BY INSTALLING A RUBBER EXPANSION PLUG INTO THE AXLE TUBE THE OIL WILL NOT LEAK OUT OF THE AXLE WHEN WE'RE

DRIVING IT DOWN THE ROAD.

THEN THE UNIT BEARING, BRAKE ROTOR, AND CALIPER CAN BE REINSTALLED. THIS THREE DOLLAR PART WILL KEEP YOU FROM HAVING TO CALL A TOW TRUCK TO THE TRAIL HEAD.

BUT YOU CAN ALSO PREVENT THIS TYPE OF FAILURE FROM HAPPENING IN THE FIRST PLACE BY UPGRADING YOUR AXLES USING A 10 FACTORY AXLE KIT FROM SUMMIT RACING. THE CHROMOLY SHAFTS ARE STRONGER THAN THE STOCK PIECES, AND THEY COME WITH A SEVERE DUTY AXLE JOINT WITH FULL CIRCLE SNAP RINGS. BUT KEEP THE RUBBER EXPANSION PLUG IN YOUR JEEP FOR THOSE WHEELING BUDDIES STILL RUNNING ON STOCK SHAFTS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, FORM AND FUNCTION IMPROVEMENTS FOR OUR FLAT BED.

(IAN)>> WITH THE DECKING FOR OUR FLAT BED ALL FINISHED UP, THERE'S ONE LAST AREA I NEED TO DEAL WITH. I WANT TO BUILD SOMETHING OF AN ENGINE COVER FOR THE BACK OF OUR DIESEL ENGINE JUST TO KEEP IT PROTECTED FROM THE ELEMENTS. BUT I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT IT'S REMOVABLE SO WHEN I WANT TO SERVICE THIS ENGINE I DON'T HAVE TO ALWAYS CRAWL UP UNDERNEATH IT OR REMOVE THE ENTIRE

FLAT BED JUST TO WORK ON THE MOTOR. SO I'M GONNA BUILD A SIMPLE LITTLE COVER MADE OUT OF SOME ONE BY ONE TUBING AND THEN JUST SKIN IT AND I'LL JUST DROP IT RIGHT OVER THE ENGINE. I'LL BUILD AS CLOSE TO THE ENGINE AS I CAN. THAT WAY IF I HAVE A LONGER BUGGY I'LL BE ABLE TO PULL IT ALL THE WAY FORWARD AND THE FRONT BUMPER CAN JUST

HOVER RIGHT ON TOP OF OUR SIX BT. THE ENGINE COVER WILL START WITH A FRAME WORK OF ONE INCH COLD ROLLED ELECTRIC WELD LIGHTWEIGHT 16 GAUGE STEEL. WITH ANGLES CUT AT 22 AND A HALF DEGREES, THE BACK OF THE COVER WILL HAVE A NICE, TAPERED APPEARANCE. ONCE THE TWO SIDES ARE WELDED, SPREADERS ARE CUT AND INSTALLED IN BETWEEN EACH SIDE. AFTER A TEST FIT THE 16 GAUGE STEEL IS CUT, BENT, AND PUNCHED TO FIT ONTO OUR FRAME WORK. THE SIDES ARE ALSO MADE FROM THE SAME 16 GAUGE STEEL. FULLY PLUG WELDED, OUR NEW ENGINE COVER CAN BE DROPPED IN PLACE. BUT THIS IS GOING TO BE MORE THAN JUST AN ENGINE COVER. I HAVE ROOM AT THE BACK OF OUR ENGINE COVER TO MOUNT THIS WARN NINE POINT FIVE XPS SERIES WINCH. NOW IT HAS A 9,500 POUND PULLING CAPACITY AND IT USES SYNTHETIC ROPE INSTEAD OF WIRE CABLE. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT THE SYNTHETIC ROPE IS IT'S LIGHTWEIGHT. SO IF YOU NEED TO RUN OUT THE WHOLE DRUM TO HAUL SOMETHING UP ONTO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK IT'LL BE NICE AND EASY TO CARRY AND RUN IT OUT AND HOOK IT UP TO THE CAR.

YOU DO WANT TO TRY TO KEEP THE SYNTHETIC ROPE OUT OF

U/V LIGHT, AND THAT'S WHY MOUNTING IT UP UNDERNEATH THE ENGINE COVER WILL BE PERFECT. IT'LL ALSO BE GOOD FOR SECURITY. REMEMBER WE'RE NOT GONNA DRIVE THIS TRUCK EVERYDAY. SO JUST HAVING A WINCH MOUNTED ON THE BACK, KIND OF AN INVITATION FOR SOMEBODY WHO WANTS THAT WINCH MORE THAN YOU. BUT MOUNTING IT UP UP INSIDE THIS ENGINE COVER, IT'S JUST ONE EXTRA LEVEL OF SECURITY TO KEEP OUR WINCH GOOD AND SAFE. THE WINCH PLATE WILL BE MADE FROM SOME THREESIXTEENTHS STEEL. AND ONCE IT'S CUT WE'LL DRILL THE MOUNTING HOLES AND BOLT THE WINCH IN PLACE. THEN WE'LL WELD THE MOUNTING PLATE TO THE FLAT BED FOR OUR TRUCK, AND CUT THE HOLE IN OUR ENGINE COVER FOR OUR FAIRLEAD. THE CONTROL BOX WILL BE MOUNTED ON THE OUTSIDE OF

THE ENGINE COVER AND WE NOW HAVE A WINCH ON OUR FLAT BED.

NOW WITH THOSE TWO JOBS FINISHED UP, AT LEAST THE BACK HALF OF OUR CRAWLER HAULER IS BASICALLY DONE. I STILL HAVE A COUPLE OF ODDS AND ENDS I HAVE TO TAKE CARE OF. I'VE GOT TO WELD IN ALL OF THIS DECKING, BUILD THE SKIRTING ALONG THE SIDE, BUT NOTHING MAJOR. ALL OF OUR HEAVY FAB WORK IS FINISHED ON THE BACK OF THIS TRUCK. I NOW HAVE 15 FEET WORTH OF DECK SPACE TO HAUL A CRAWLER, 10 INCHES OF SUSPENSION TRAVEL IN THE BACK TO RAISE, AND LOWER, AND ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT. AND NOW IT'S TRULY A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK. NEXT WE'RE GONNA MOVE ON TO THE FUN STUFF. I'LL DEAL WITH SOME OF THE COSMETIC GOODIES, MAKE THIS THING REALLY LOOK LIKE ONE OF OUR DAKAR RALLY TRUCKS THAT INSPIRED THIS BUILD.