Skinning the Buckin’ Bronco

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD PROJECT BUCKIN' BRONCO TAKES SHAPE AS WE MAKE MAJOR PROGRESS ON THE CHASSIS, AND DROP IN COMPETITION GRADE TIRES. PLUS DISCOUNT DATSUN GETS RECOVERY GEAR AND SOME

TRULY BUDGET DRIVESHAFTS. AND WE HELP A VIEWER IMPROVE HIS TRUCK'S FUEL ECONOMY AND OFF ROAD PERFORMANCE IN THIS WEEK'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.

(IAN)>> SO FAR PROJECT BUCKIN' BRONCO, WELL IT HONESTLY JUST LOOKS LIKE A PILE OF TUBE SITTING ON A FRAME TABLE, BUT NOW THAT THE ENGINE IS IN PLACE TODAY ALL THAT CAN FINALLY CHANGE. I CAN START TO SKIN THIS RIG TO MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A CLASSIC '66 BRONCO. A FORD BRONCO HAS BEEN ON THE TO DO LIST FOR A LONG TIME HERE IN THE XOR SHOP, AND WITH THIS YEAR BEING THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY FOR THE TRUCK IT WAS TIME. SO WITH A PILE OF SHEET METAL FROM LMC AND A WHOLE LOT OF TUBING, I STARTED BUILDING A TUBE CHASSIS THAT WOULD EARN THE NAME "BUCKIN' BRONCO".

NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE WHOLE POINT OF THIS RIG IS TO BASICALLY BUILD AN ULTRA FOUR STYLE CHASSIS. JUST SKIN IT TO LOOK LIKE A CLASSIC '66 BRONCO. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE BUILDING A HARDCORE OFF ROAD RACE CAR, THE CHASSIS IS USUALLY BROKEN DOWN INTO MULTIPLE SECTIONS.

IN THIS CASE WE HAVE A PASSENGER COMPARTMENT, WE'LL HAVE A FRONT TUBE SECTION, AND THEN A REAR TUBE SECTION. NOW THE REASON YOU DO THAT IS IF YOU EVER WAD THE CAR UP OFF ROAD IT'LL USUALLY ONLY DAMAGE ONE PARTICULAR SECTION OF TUBING. SO IN THIS CASE IF I BANGED UP THE FRONT END OF THE RIG I COULD SIMPLY CUT THE TUBING OFF AT THE

FIREWALL, RIGHT AT THIS BULKHEAD, AND REPLACE WHAT'S NEEDED, BASICALLY SAVING THE REST OF THE CHASSIS. NOW THE FIRST STEP IN CREATING THIS FRONT TUBE SECTION IS DETERMINING WHERE THE FENDERS ARE GONNA SIT, AND THEN I CAN START CUTTING UP SOME STEEL. A DOUBLE HOOP TUBE STRUCTURE ALWAYS FITS WELL BEHIND THE CLASSIC BRONCO GRILL.

AND WITH THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE HEADLIGHTS MEASURE, INCH AND THREE QUARTER DOM IS CUT AND BENT INTO TWO SEPARATE 180 DEGREE BENDS.

[ SAW CUTTING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> SLUGS FROM INCH AND A HALF DOM ARE PLACED INSIDE THE BENDS AND THEY ARE SLID INTO EACH OTHER AND WELDED.

[ SAW CUTTING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> TUBES FOR THE FENDER MOUNTS ARE TACKED ONTO THE APILLAR BAR, CHECKED FOR SQUARE, AND THEN THE GRILL HOOP IS TACKED INTO PLACE.

FRONT FENDERS ARE MOCKED INTO POSITION AND HELD IN PLACE TEMPORARILY WITH SOME ZIP TIES. WITH THE FENDERS AND GRILL IN PLACE, THIS BUGGY'S STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A BRONCO BUT I'M SURE A COUPLE OF YOU HAVE A FEW QUESTIONS. PROBABLY THE FIRST ONE IS, WHY IS THE ENGINE ALL THE WAY BACK IN THE CHASSIS INSTEAD OF UP HERE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD? WELL THERE'S A FEW REASONS FOR THAT. FIRST IS WEIGHT TRANSFER. REMEMBER THIS IS AN ULTRA FOUR STYLE CAR. SO I WANT TO GET AS MUCH WEIGHT TOWARDS THE BACK OF THE RIG, AROUND 60 PERCENT ON THE REAR TIRES. ALSO THIS IS AN INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION RIG. SO I NEED ROOM IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE FOR THE IFS CHUNK, AND IT HAS TO BE PUSHED OUT FAR ENOUGH SO THE TIRE AND WHEEL ARE STILL SOMEWHAT CENTERED INSIDE WHAT WOULD BE THE FACTORY WHEEL WELL. SO WHAT I NEED TO DO RIGHT NOW IS BREAK OUT MY TIRES AND WHEELS, AND GET MY FRONT THIRD MEMBER SO I CAN MOCK THOSE IN PLACE BEFORE BENDING MORE TUBE.

THE ROLLING STOCK FOR THIS BRONCO WILL START WITH A SET OF COMPETITION COMPOUND MAXXIS TREPIDORE TIRES. THESE 40 INCH TALL TIRES ARE BUILT WITH A UNIQUE TREAD DESIGN TO ENSURE AGGRESSIVE CONTACT WITH

THE DIRT, ALONG WITH DEEP SIDE WALL TREAD FOR EXCELLENT SIDE TRACTION. THE BIAS PLY CONSTRUCTION WILL ALLOW THE TIRE TO

EASILY CONFORM TO THE ROCKS WHEN ON THE TRAIL. WHEN IT COMES TO ULTRA FOUR RACING, RACE LINE

MONSTER BEAD LOCKS HAVE BECOME A

STAPLE ON THE COURSE. A HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM WHEEL WITH A RAISED INNER BEAD RETAINING LIP, SERRATED BEAD LOCK 32 TO BOLT CLAMPING RING, AND RECESSED VALVE STEM FOR EXTRA PROTECTION. THESE WHEELS MEAN BUSINESS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, ONCE WE MAKE SPACE FOR OUR 40 INCHES WE CAN FINISH UP THE STRUCTURAL TUBING ON BUCKIN' BRONCO'S CHASSIS.

(IAN)>> WE'VE GOTTEN PRETTY LUCKY WITH THE LOCATION OF OUR FRONT AXLE. EVEN HAVING TO PUSH EVERYTHING FORWARD IN FRONT OF THE MOTOR, IT LOOKS LIKE OUR TIRE AND WHEEL PACKAGE ARE GONNA FIT FAIRLY WELL INSIDE THE FACTORY WHEEL OPENING.

I WILL PROBABLY END UP TRIMMING THE FRONT OF THIS FENDER WHEN THE TIRE IS TURNED AND THE SUSPENSION IS FULLY COMPRESSED JUST TO CLEAR THE TREAD, BUT TO DETERMINE THAT I NEED TO SET THE TIRE WHEEL AT THAT HEIGHT WITH SUSPENSION FULLY COMPRESSED, AND FOR THAT I'M GONNA MAKE SOME BRACKETS THAT'LL MOUNT ONTO THE FRAME TABLE. THIS ENTIRE CHASSIS IS BEING BUILT ON OUR STRONG HAND TOOLS WELDING TABLE, AND JIGGED INTO POSITION TO ENSURE EVERYTHING IS SQUARE.

THE TIRE AND WHEEL ASSEMBLY NEEDS TO BE LOCATED USING THE SAME PRECISION.

SO I'M GONNA BUILD A CRADLE TO HOLD IT INTO PLACE OUT OF SOME TWO BY TWO STRUCTURAL STEEL TUBING AND CLAMP IT TO THE TABLE.

THIS IS THE ACTUAL LOCATION OF THE TIRE AND WHEEL WHEN THE SUSPENSION IS FULLY COMPRESSED. I HAVE THE FRONT SET AT THE CORRECT TRACK WIDTH, AND AT THIS POINT RIGHT HERE I'LL HAVE ABOUT A 10 INCH BELLY WHEN EVERYTHING IS FULLY STUFFED, AND THAT WILL BE PERFECT FOR THIS RIG.

NOW ONE NICE THING ABOUT AN IFS SYSTEM IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE TIRE LEANING IN LIKE YOU DO ON A SOLID AXLE CAR BECAUSE THE TIRE IS JUST GONNA BE TRAVELING UP AND DOWN IN A STRAIGHT LINE. I DO HAVE TO OPEN UP, OBVIOUSLY, THE FENDER WELL OPENING TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE TIRE TO TURN, BUT I'M NOT GONNA HAVE TO TRIM A BUNCH OF THIS FENDER AWAY FOR WHEN THE TIRE WOULD LEAN IF IT WAS A SOLID AXLE CAR. SO WITH THE TIRE IN PLACE I CAN MARK THE FENDER AND THEN WE'LL START PULLING MORE TUBE.

THE MOCKED UP SHEET METAL IS REMOVED FROM THE CHASSIS, AND THE BARS THAT WILL BECOME THE LOWER AARM MOUNTS ARE TACKED INTO PLACE. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> SUPPORT TUBES ARE THEN ADDED TO TRIANGULATE THE FENDER TUBE INTO THE CHASSIS AT THE FRONT LOWER NODE.

THIS IS THE POINT IN THE CHASSIS BUILD WHERE ALL OF THE TUBING THAT WE ADD FROM THIS POINT ON WILL BE 100 PERCENT STRUCTURAL. THAT'S WHY I STARTED WITH THESE TWO LOWER PIECES THAT WILL EVENTUALLY BECOME THE MOUNTING POINTS FOR OUR SPIDER TRAX PRO SERIES FRONT IFS HOUSING. NOW THIS TUBE AT THE TOP THAT LOOKS LIKE IT'S JUST SORTA FLOATING IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE ACTUALLY HAS A VERY IMPORTANT JOB.

NOT ONLY WILL IT LOCK ONTO THE TOP OF THIS AXLE

HOUSING, IT'LL ALSO BE THE MOUNTING LOCATION FOR OUR COIL OVER AND BYPASS SHOCK AS THEY TRAVEL DOWN ONTO THE LOWER AARM ON OUR INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION. I'M PRETTY HAPPY WITH HOW EVERYTHING IS

LAYING OUT SO FAR. IT LOOKS LIKE I STILL HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM TO PULL OUR

MOTOR OUT OF THE CHASSIS FROM THE TOP, WHICH IS WHAT I REALLY WANTED FOR THIS RIG EVEN AFTER ADD IN A COUPLE OF MORE TUBES BACK HERE, BUT THE BEST PART IS THIS FRONT SECTION.

I'VE JUST ENOUGH ROOM TO RUN A FRONT MOUNTED RADIATOR. NOW I GOT THIS HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM UNIT FROM SUMMIT RACING THAT'LL FIT RIGHT BEHIND THE GRILL AND RIGHT IN FRONT OF OUR SHOCK PACKAGE. NOW THAT'LL JUST MAKE DRIVING THIS

BUGGY A LOT NICER. INSTEAD OF HAVING THE RADIATOR RIGHT BEHIND YOUR HEAD WITH A COUPLE OF FANS BUZZING ALL THE TIME, HAVING THE RADIATOR UP FRONT WILL JUST KEEP IT GOOD AND COOL, AND JUST MAKE IT A LOT BETTER TO DRIVE.

ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS ADD ABOUT ONE, TWO, THREE, A DOZEN MORE TUBES, THE FRONT END'S DONE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, LOGAN PUTS A LOT OF MILES ON HIS PICK UP. SO WE'VE GOT A PLAN TO TRIM HIS FUEL BILL.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEED HELP SOLVING A PROBLEM

WITH YOUR PROJECT? HERE'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE!

(IAN)>> LOGAN WHITE IS A VIEWER WHO HAS A NEWER DODGE RAM PICK UP. HE DRIVES HIS DIESEL A LOT AND WANTS BETTER FUEL MILEAGE.

WE'RE HERE TO HELP HIM OUT, LOGAN!

(LOGAN)>> YES SIR, HOW YOU DOING?

(IAN)>> NICE TO MEET YOU. SO THIS IS THE BIG DODGE HUH?

(LOGAN)>> YES SIR.

(IAN)>> WHAT DO YOU NORMALLY USE IT FOR?

(LOGAN)>> USE IT FOR A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT THINGS. WE PULL FOR MY MOWING BUSINESS BUT I DRIVE ACROSS THE COUNTRY A LOT OF HUNTING PURPOSES.

(IAN)>> AND THAT'S A LOT OF MILES ON THE HIGHWAY.

(LOGAN)>> YEAH, EXTREMELY.

(IAN)>> BUT THE TRUCK GOES OFF ROAD WHEN YOU GET THERE. SO IT STILL OUGHT TO BE GOOD AND TOUGH RIGHT?

(LOGAN)>> YES SIR, ABSOLUTELY, AND OUT OF THE MUD FIELDS AND STUFF FOR DUCKS, AND UP AND DOWN THE FARM ROADS AND THINGS LIKE THAT FOR DEER HUNTING.

(IAN)>> BUT YOU'RE GONNA BE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY ON THOSE LONG TRIPS?

(LOGAN)>> ABSOLUTELY.

(IAN)>> IF I WAS ABLE TO UNLOCK THAT FRONT AXLE AND BASICALLY FREE UP, IT'S GONNA SAVE YOU A LOT OF FUEL WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY.

(LOGAN)>> SURE!

(IAN)>> SO IF I COULD GET YOU A LITTLE BIT BETTER MILEAGE ON THE HIGHWAY AND STILL KEEP THE FRONT END GOOD AND STRONG, IF NOT STRONGER, THAT'LL MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE FOR YOU RIGHT?

(LOGAN)>> YEAH, NO DOUBT.

(IAN)>> ALRIGHT WELL LET'S JACK THE FRONT END UP, GET THE TIRES AND WHEELS OFF, AND I'LL SHOW YOU WHAT WE'VE GOT PLANNED.

(LOGAN)>> PERFECT.

[ DRILL SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> THE PROBLEM WITH ALL THESE MODERN DIESEL PICK UP TRUCKS IS THE SOLID AXLE IN THE FRONT

USES WHAT'S CALLED UNIT BEARINGS. NOW THAT MEANS THAT THEY DID THAT SO IT'S EASIER FOR THE OWNER TO SHIFT IT INTO FOUR WHEEL DRIVE. SO YOU PUT IT IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE AND FOUR WHEEL DRIVE AUTOMATICALLY. UNLIKE THE OLD TRUCKS, YOU HAD TO GET OUT AND LOCK IN A FREE WHEELING HUB. THE PROBLEM IS THAT MEANS WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, EVEN WHEN THE TRUCK'S NOT IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, WHEN THIS WHEEL'S TURNING IT'S TURNING EVERY SINGLE PART OF THAT DRIVETRAIN. IT'S TURNING THE AXLE, THE INNER AXLE, THE RING AND PINION, THE DRIVESHAFT, EVEN THE OUTPUT SHAFT ON THE TRANSFER CASE. SO THAT PUTS A LOT OF LOAD ON THINGS, COULD WEAR OUT PARTS, AND IT'S GONNA INCREASE THE DRAG. SO WORSE FUEL ECONOMY. SO WHAT I HAVE IS WHAT'S CALLED A FREE SPIN KIT FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE. IT'S GONNA REPLACE THE UNIT BEARING WITH A SPINDLE AND A SET OF TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS, AND IT'LL BASICALLY PUT A FREE WHEELING HUB BACK ON THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK.

SO WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY YOU CAN UNLOCK IT AND ALL THAT'S GONNA BE TURNING IS THE WHEEL. SO HOPEFULLY PICK YOU UP A FEW EXTRA MILES PER GALLON, PLUS IT'S ACTUALLY A LOT STRONGER. ALRIGHT SO THE FIRST STEP IS TO UNBOLT THE UNIT BEARING, PUT ON THE NEW SPINDLE. THE FREE SPIN KIT COMES WITH EVERYTHING NEEDED FOR THE JOB. THE NEW SPINDLE AND HUB ASSEMBLY, NEW TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS, A NEW OUTER STUB SHAFT, AND A SET OF YUKON HARDCORE LOCKING HUBS. THE KIT ALSO HAS PROVISIONS TO MAINTAIN THE FACTORY ANTILOCK BRAKE SENSOR. A GOOD VICE ON A STRONG BENCH IS NEEDED TO SEPARATE THE AXLE JOINT. LUCKY FOR US WILTON EQUIPPED OUR DRIVEWAY RESCUE TRAILER WITH THEIR NEW ALL TERRAIN TRUCK VICE THAT SLIDES INTO THE RECEIVER HITCH ON THE BACK

OF THE PICK UP, HOLDING EVERYTHING SECURE WHILE THE OUTER STUB AND UNIT BEARING ARE REPLACED WITH THE YUKON SHAFT.

THE ROLLER BEARINGS ARE THEN PACKED WITH GREASE AND THE HUB IS BOLTED ONTO THE SPINDLE.

YOU'RE NOT TURNING THE SHAFTS ANYMORE?

(LOGAN)>> YEAH.

(IAN)>> ALL WE'RE DOING WHEN THE WHEEL TURNS IT'S JUST GONNA RIDE ON THOSE TWO BEARINGS. NOW THE HUBS THAT COME WITH THE YUKON KIT ARE THEIR YUKON HARDCORE HUBS.

NOW THESE ARE TYPICAL FREE WHEELING LOCKING HUBS. SO WHEN IT'S OPEN IT'S JUST OPEN, AND WHEN YOU'RE OFF ROAD YOU CLICK IT TO LOCK AND THEN IT ENGAGES EVERYTHING. BUT THE UNIQUE FEATURE OF THESE HUBS IS IF THEY EVER FAIL. SO IF YOU EVER GET THIS TRUCK DEEP IN THE WOODS, GET THE FRONT AXLE BOUND UP AND SOMETHING'S GONNA BREAK, IT'S PROBABLY GONNA BE SOMETHING IN THE HUB. IF IT DOES BREAK IT DEFAULTS TO LOCK. INSTEAD OF BREAKING OPEN AND JUST LOOSING ALL THE TRACTION AT THE WHEEL, YOU'LL ALWAYS HAVE FOUR WHEEL DRIVE NO MATTER WHAT.

SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO EVER WORRY ABOUT GETTING THIS TRUCK STUCK IN THE WOODS.

THE HARDCORE LOCKING HUB REQUIRES A LARGE AMOUNT OF

GREASE TO ENSURE SMOOTH OPERATION OF THE LOCKING FLANGE. THERE WE GO, THANK YOU. OH YEAH!

AND WITH THE CAP IN PLACE, LOGAN NOW HAS FOUR WHEEL DRIVE BUT ONLY WHEN HE WANTS IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, DRIVESHAFTS FOR LESS THAN $50 BUCKS? WE'RE ON BOARD WITH THAT!

(IAN)>> A LITTLE BIT OF DEJA VU GOING ON IN THE SHOP TODAY. I WANT TO FINISH THINGS UP BY GETTING PROJECT

DISCOUNT DATSUN BACK OFF OF THE LIFT, BUT BEFORE I CAN DO THAT I HAVE TO WORK ON THE FRONT END OF THIS PROJECT AS WELL. I NEED TO FINISH WELD ALL OF THE TUBE STRUCTURE

THAT'S JUST BEEN TACKED IN PLACE, BUT BEFORE I CAN DO THAT I NEED TO TEST FIT OUR FENDERS TO FIND OUT HOW MUCH I HAVE TO TRIM TO CLEAR THESE

42 INCH TALL TIRES.

WITH THE FENDERS BOLTED ONTO THE CAB, THEY ARE MARKED TO PROVIDE ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THE TIRE TO LEAN INTO THE BODY AT FULL ARTICULATION. THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS USED AS A TEMPLATE FOR THE PASSENGER SO THE TRUCK MATCHES SIDE TO SIDE.

ONCE WE CHECK HOW THE FENDERS FIT, WE PULL THEM BACK OFF AND THE FRONT TUBE STRUCTURE IS FULLY WELDED. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> NOW ONE LAST ITEM I NEED TO ADD TO ALL THIS TUBE WORK ON THE FRONT IS SOME TYPE OF A WINCH MOUNT. NOW FOR THIS RIG I'M OPTING TO USE ONE OF THESE TRAIL GEAR 10,000 POUND WINCHES, AND I HAVE IT LOADED WITH THEIR NEW DURALINE WITH EXOSHIELD. NOW THAT'S A SYNTHETIC WINCH ROPE BUT IT'S

COVERED IN A SHIELD TO PROTECT IT AND TO KEEP MUD, DIRT, ROCKS, AND DEBRIS FROM GETTING EMBEDDED IN THE WINCH LINE AND LIMITING ITS LIFE SPAN. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS COME UP WITH A PLATE AND I THINK THIS'LL SIT RIGHT BEHIND OUR FRONT GRILL. TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE WINCH THE FAN, IT'S GOTTA GO. SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH PLATE IS CUT USING THE SHEAR ON OUR EDWARDS IRON WORKER, AND IT ALSO MAKES QUICK WORK OF THE MOUNTING HOLES FOR THE WINCH.

THE PLATE IS LEVELED ON THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK AND TACKED INTO PLACE. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> AND GUSSETED FOR EXTRA STRENGTH.

ONE OF THE LAST THINGS I NEED TO FAB UP FOR THE SUSPENSION ON DISCOUNT DATSUN IS GOING TO BE THE DRIVESHAFTS. NOW WHEN YOU'RE WORKING ON A BUDGET, THIS IS A PLACE

YOU CAN EASILY SAVE A PILE OF MONEY. ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS BUILD YOUR OWN. I KEEP A PILE OF OLD DRIVESHAFTS FROM PROJECTS AROUND THE SHOP THAT I CAN ROB FOR PARTS.

WE'RE GONNA DO SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. I'M GONNA BE USING A SQUARE DRIVESHAFT ON BOTH THE FRONT AND THE REAR. THAT IS GONNA GIVE ME A LARGE AMOUNT OF SLIP IN THE DRIVESHAFT, AND I WON'T NEED TO USE UP ANY OF MY SPLINE SHAFTS BECAUSE THE SHAFT ITSELF WILL LOCK INTO THE SQUARE TUBING. ONE THING YOU DO HAVE TO GET USED TO IS THE SOUND OF THE DRIVESHAFT AS YOU'RE DRIVING THROUGH THE TRAILS, BUT THAT'S A SMALL PRICE TO PAY FOR A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SAVED. KNOWING THE TOTAL LENGTH OF THE SHAFT WHEN COMPRESSED IS ALL THE INFORMATION YOU'RE GONNA

NEED TO BUILD A SQUARE DRIVESHAFT. I'M USING HITCH TUBING FOR OUR DRIVESHAFT. TWO BY TWO QUARTER INCH WALL FOR THE INNER SLEEVE AND TWO AND HALF BY TWO AND A HALF THREESIXTEENTHS INCH WALL FOR THE TUBING ON THE OUTSIDE, THE SAME STEEL THAT'S USED TO BUILD

RECEIVER STYLE HITCHES. [ SAW CUTTING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> ENDS ARE 13-50 UJOINT ENDS OFF A COUPLE OF OLD DRIVESHAFTS, AND THEY'RE SIMPLY WELDED INTO THE SQUARE TUBING. [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

[ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> FOR UNDER $50 DOLLARS I'LL NOW HAVE TWO FULL CUSTOM LONG TRAVEL DRIVESHAFTS. NOW IF YOU'RE GONNA BUILD YOUR OWN SQUARE DRIVESHAFT, ONE THING YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO DO, AND THAT IS APPLY A LARGE AMOUNT OF GREASE TO THIS INNER SHAFT PRETTY MUCH EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE RIG OUT WHEELING. THAT'LL JUST HELP TAKE UP SOME OF THE SLOP INSIDE THE SHAFT, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY IT'LL PREVENT ANY WATER FROM SITTING INSIDE THIS SQUARE TUBE

CAUSING ANY RUST ISSUES OR POSSIBLY CAUSING A SHAFT TO GET STUCK. BUT FOR THE MONEY INVESTED HERE TO GET A SHAFT THAT TRAVEL THAT FAR, THAT'S A STEAL!