Commando Suspension

(NARRATOR)>> WHEN YOU'RE WORKING ON A VINTAGE JEEP LIKE OUR '68 COMMANDO, YOU DON'T HAVE TO SACRIFICE MODERN PERFORMANCE TO KEEP THAT CLASSIC JEEPSTER STYLE. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE OUTFIT THE COMMANDO WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE LEAF SPRINGS, FULL FLOAT AXLE ASSEMBLIES, AND 40 INCHES OF STICKY RUBBER. ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO NOW IS MAKE ROOM FOR ALL THESE UPGRADES.

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE GONNA JUMP BACK ON OUR ROCK AUTO DOT COM GIVEAWAY 1968 JEEPSTER. NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE LAST TIME WE HAD THIS RIG IN THE SHOP WE PULLED THE FRONT SHEET METAL OFF TO REMOVE THE MAZDA VSIX THAT SOMEBODY HAD SWAPPED UNDERNEATH THE HOOD TO PREP IT FOR A FOUR LITER STRAIGHT SIX OUT OF A JEEP BECAUSE THIS IS A JEEP. NOW THERE'S STILL A PILE OF PARTS ON THIS RIG THAT AREN'T NEEDED ANYMORE. SO THE FIRST STEP TODAY, TEAR THIS TRUCK APART SOME MORE.

[ drill spinning ]

(IAN)>> THIS JEEPSTER IS TWO WHEEL DRIVE WITH A DEAD AXLE UP FRONT. SO IT HAS TO GO, AND WHILE I'M AT IT I'LL DUMP THE STEERING BOX AND SWAY BAR.

CHOO, CHOO! OUT BACK THIS IS ACTUALLY THE AXLE OUT OF THE SAME MAZDA PICK UP TRUCK THAT THE VSIX CAME OUT OF THAT WAS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF THIS RIG. SO IT IS GOING TO GO IN THE TRASH.

[ air chisel vibrating ]

(IAN)>> THE FRONT FRAME RAIL CAN THEN BE PREPPED FOR OUR NEW SUSPENSION. [ saw cutting metal ]

[ metal grinding ]

(IAN)>> WE'RE STARTING WITH A BARE FRAME RAIL ON THE FRONT OF OUR JEEPSTER BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE PERFORMING A PROCEDURE THAT'S KNOWN AS OUT BOARDING OUR LEAF SPRINGS. CLASSIC JEEP IRON LIKE THIS NEEDS LEAF SPRINGS ON ALL FOUR CORNERS, BUT TO IMPROVE THE PERFORMANCE WE'RE GONNA RELOCATE THE LEAF SPRINGS FROM UNDERNEATH THE JEEP FRAME TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE JEEP FRAME. TO DO THAT I GOT A COMPLETE KIT FROM MOTO BUILT. IT INCLUDES A NEW FRONT BUMPER AND WINCH TRAY THAT WILL KEY INTO SOME NEW LEAF SPRING HANGERS AND SHACKLE HANGERS THAT WILL NOW MOUNT ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME. BY MOVING THE LEAF SPRINGS FROM UNDERNEATH THE FRAME TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE FRAME IT JUST MAKES THE RIG A LOT MORE STABLE WHEN YOU'RE RUNNING FULL WIDTH AXLES.

THIS KIT IS FOR A JEEP CJ, BUT I'M GAMBLING THAT THE JEEPSTER FRAME IS VERY SIMILAR. THE MOTO BUILT KIT INDEXES OFF A FACTORY HOLE IN THE FRAME, AND OUR JEEPSTER HAS THE HOLE THAT WE NEED, BUT THE FRONT FRAME HORNS NEED TO BE MODIFIED. [ air chisel vibrating ]

(IAN)>> THERE WE GO! [ air chisel vibrating ]

[ metal grinding ]

(IAN)>> THE HOLE IS ON THE TOP OF THE FRAME THAT WE'RE USING TO LOCATE THE BUMPER AND THE WINCH PLATE, BUT IT APPEARS AS THOUGH THE ACTUAL FRONT FRAME HORN ON THIS JEEPSTER IS A LITTLE BIT SKINNIER THAN THE FRAME HORN YOU'D FIND ON A JEEP CJ THAT THIS KIT IS DESIGNED FOR. NOW THE REASON I CAN TELL THAT IS WHEN I PUT THE SPRING HANGER IN PLACE THERE IS A GAP BETWEEN THE TOP OF THE SPRING HANGER AND THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME RAIL, AND THIS SPRING HANGER IS DESIGNED TO WELD ON TO THE BOTTOM OF THAT FRAME. SO BEFORE I GO AHEAD AND PUT ANY OF THIS NEW STUFF ON I NEED TO REBUILD THE FRONT OF THIS FRAME, MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT FATTER, AND THAT WILL ALSO MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT STRONGER.

WITH SOME MEASUREMENTS TAKEN, I WILL CUT THE NEW FRONT FRAME SECTION OUT OF SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL ON OUR ESAB CROSSBOW PLASMA CUTTER. ADDING HOLES WILL GIVE US MORE WELD SURFACE, THEREFORE MORE STRENGTH IN THE PLATES. ONCE THE FRAME IS PREPPED, THE PLATES CAN BE TACKED INTO PLACE AND THE FRONT BUMPER DROPPED BACK ON. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> WITH OUR FRONT SPRING HANGER IN PLACE, IT'S NOW TIME TO DETERMINE WHAT LEAF SPRINGS WE WILL BE RUNNING UNDERNEATH OUR JEEPSTER. NOW THE EASIEST WAY TO DO THAT IS TO MOCK UP A SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES AND A COUPLE OF AXLES. NOW TIRES FOR OUR JEEPSTER, I CHOSE THE MAXXIS RAZOR MT. NOW THIS IS A MUD TERRAIN TIRE. SO IT HAS A NICE, AGGRESSIVE TREAD, BUT IT'S NOT AS AGGRESSIVE AS SOME OF THEIR COMPETITION TIRES, BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS, IS THEY'VE TAKEN EVERYTHING THAT THEY'VE LEARNED FROM THOSE COMPETITION TIRES AND APPLIED IT TO THE COMPOUND OF THE RUBBER IN THIS TIRE. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO NOT CHIP OR TEAR OUT, GIVE US MAXIMUM TRACTION ON THE ROCKS, AND THEY HAVE AN INCREDIBLY STRONG SIDEWALL THAT'S PUNCTURE RESISTANT WHEN YOU'RE OFF ROAD. FOR WHEELS WE'RE GONNA USE RACELINE 17 BY NINE AND A HALF INCH MONSTER BEAD LOCKS. A HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM WHEEL DESIGNED FOR SERIOUS OFF ROAD ABUSE. FOUR INCH BACK SPACING WITH A FULLY POLISHED BEAD LOCK RING TO CLAMP THE OUTER BEAD IN PLACE. MOUNTING TIRES ONTO A SET OF BEAD LOCKS IS NOT HARD, JUST TIME CONSUMING. ONCE THE TIRE IS OVER THE WHEEL, THE BEAD IS CENTERED AND THE OUTER RING IS CLAMPED DOWN. THEN THEY'RE READY FOR SOME AIR.

(NARRATOR)>> 10-HUT, THE COMMANDO GETS A MAJOR AXLE UPGRADE, AND A LONGER WHEEL BASE. AT EASE!

(IAN)>> WE HAVE OUR TIRES AND WHEELS PICKED OUT IN OUR SUSPENSION PLAN. THE NEXT STEP IS TO GET SOME AXLES UNDERNEATH THIS RIG. NOW WHENEVER I'M BUILDING OLD IRON I LIKE TO THROW NEW TECHNOLOGY UNDERNEATH IT WHERE IT COUNTS, SPECIFICALLY WHEN IT COMES TO THE AXLE ASSEMBLIES. NOW I TALKED TO THE GUYS AT CURRIE ENTERPRISES AND TOLD THEM WHAT I WAS BUILDING, AND THEY SUGGESTED A PAIR OF THEIR ROCK JOCK VXR SERIES AXLE ASSEMBLIES. NOW THIS IS A VERY UNIQUE DESIGN HIGH PINION AXLE BECAUSE THE DIFF COVER IS ACTUALLY TILTED OVER AT AN ANGLE TO GIVE US MORE GROUND CLEARANCE, AND IT HAS AN INTEGRATED SKID PLATE ON THE BOTTOM TO PROTECT IT WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING OVER THE ROCKS. NOW THE VXR'S HAVE A THREE AND A HALF INCH THREEEIGHTHS WALL DOM AXLE SHAFT, AND UPGRADED BRAKES AT ALL FOUR CORNERS. NOW OF COURSE IT'S A FULL FLOAT AXLE ASSEMBLY WITH A 35 SPLINE AXLE SHAFT INSIDE. NOW WHEN IT COMES TO THE LOCKER I OPTED FOR A YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER. THAT IS A MECHANICAL LOCKER, FOR A COUPLE OF REASONS. NUMBER ONE, WE HAVE THE WHEEL BASE WHERE YOU'RE PROBABLY NOT EVEN GONNA NOTICE THAT LOCKER ENGAGING WHEN WE'RE ON THE ROAD, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, WHEN WE'RE IN THE DIRT, WHEN WE NEED IT, IT'S JUST GONNA BE THERE. WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT FLIPPING ANY SWITCHES.

THE REAR AXLE IS JACKED UP AND SET UNDERNEATH THE BACK OF THE JEEP, MEASURED FOR SQUARE UNDER THE CHASSIS. THEN THE TIRES ARE BOLTED UP.

[ drill spinning ]

(IAN)>> WHENEVER YOU TRY TO WEDGE A 40 INCH TALL TIRE UNDERNEATH A RIG WITH A BODY, THERE'S ALWAYS GOING TO BE ISSUES. NOW THE PROBLEM WE HAVE HERE IS THAT THE TIRE IS ACTUALLY CONTACTED THE BODY AT BOTH THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE WHEEL WELL. I CAN'T EVEN GET THE AXLE CENTERED UNDERNEATH THE JEEP BECAUSE IT'S LITERALLY WEDGED IN PLACE. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF OPTIONS HERE. FIRST WE COULD JACK THE TRUCK UP EVEN HIGHER, GET A LITTLE BIT MORE CLEARANCE, BUT HONESTLY AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES TIRES ARE GONNA START TEARING INTO THAT WHEEL WELL. BETTER SOLUTION HERE IS TO JUST MAKE SPACE. NOW HOW DO YOU MAKE SPACE ON CLASSIC IRON? WELL NEVER BE AFRAID TO CUT A JEEP UP. TO MARK THE BODY FOR CUTTING I'M USING A LARGE ALUMINUM RULER HELD IN PLACE WITH A RATCHET STRAP AND SOME BLOCKS OF WOOD TO MATCH THE RADIUS OF OUR 40 INCH TIRE.

THE BODY IS THEN CUT USING A BODY SAW AND THE AXLE CAN NOW BE CENTERED UNDER THE CHASSIS.

OUR FRONT AXLE IS A MATCHING ROCK JOCK VXR ASSEMBLY WITH THE SAME YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER AND 5.38 TO ONE GEAR SET, EQUIPPED WITH CURRIE'S FORGED KNUCKLES THAT ARE BASE OFF THE FORD F-450 SERIES KNUCKLE BUT WITH AN INTEGRATED HIGH STEER ARM.

[ drill spinning ]

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, A LEAF SPRING SETUP THAT PROVIDES PLENTY OF FLEX ON THE TRAIL WHILE MINDING ITS MANNERS ON THE ROAD.

(IAN)>> WITH THE AXLES IN PLACE UNDERNEATH THE FRAME AND OUR JEEPSTER SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT, WE CAN NOW START TO LOOK AT DIFFERENT LEAF SPRINGS THAT MIGHT WORK IN THIS CUSTOM SUSPENSION APPLICATION. NOW WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING CUSTOM SUSPENSION WITH LEAF SPRINGS IT'S ACTUALLY A LOT TRICKIER THAN YOU MIGHT THINK CAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF THINGS AT PLAY. THE LEAF SPRING IS NOT ONLY THE SPRING IN THE SYSTEM BUT IT ALSO LOCATES THE AXLE. YOU CAN'T HAVE THE LEAF SPRING MOUNTED TOO CLOSE TO THE AXLE CENTER SECTION OR IT'S GONNA HIT THE DIFF COVER. YOU CAN'T HAVE THE AXLE CENTER SECTION MOVED ALL THE WAY TO THE CENTER TO GIVE YOU SPACE FOR THAT LEAF SPRING OR IT'S GONNA CONTACT THE OIL PAN ON THE MOTOR. YOU MAY HAVE TO PUSH YOUR LEAF SPRINGS OUT A LITTLE BIT, BUT IF YOU DO THAT YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT WHEN YOU TURN THE WHEELS ALL THE WAY THEY'RE NOT RUBBING ON THAT SPRING. YOU ALSO HAVE TO PLAN AHEAD FOR THINGS LIKE THE BODY. YOU CAN SEE HERE THAT THE TIRE HAS LOTS OF CLEARANCE ON THE TUB, BUT REMEMBER THERE'S GONNA BE A FENDER MOUNTED IN HERE. SO I HAVE TO MAKE SURE THIS AXLE'S FAR ENOUGH FORWARD. BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE YOU IS JUST TALK TO A BUNCH OF GUYS WHO HAVE LEAF SPRINGS ON THEIR RIG, ASK WHAT APPLICATION THEY CAME FROM, AND THEN GO AHEAD AND MOCK EVERYTHING UP. DON'T FINISH WELD ANY OF YOUR BRACKETS UNTIL THE ENTIRE VEHICLE IS ACTUALLY RESTING ON THE SUSPENSION. ONCE YOU KNOW EVERYTHING IS PLACE, THEN YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND BURN EVERYTHING IN. AS IT SITS RIGHT NOW, I THINK I'M GONNA BE MOVING THIS BUMPER FORWARD FIVE TO SIX INCHES, BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS IT'S NO BIG DEAL. OUR LEAF SPRINGS ARE FROM BDS SUSPENSION. NOW I'VE USED BDS LEAF SPRINGS BEFORE ON OTHER RIGS, AND HAVE FOUND THEM TO STAY STABLE WHEN ON THE ROAD BUT STILL ALLOW FOR PLENTY OF FLEX WHEN ON THE TRAIL. I HAD THEM SEND THEM SEND ME TWO INCH JEEP YJ SPRINGS AND FOUR INCH YJ SPRINGS BECAUSE I'M NOT SURE WHICH SPRINGS WILL BE BEST. THEY ALSO SENT ME FOUR OF THEIR FOX TWO POINT ZERO SHOCKS TO HELP DAMPEN THE SUSPENSION. I'M GONNA START BY MOCKING UP THE TWO INCH SPRINGS UP FRONT.

I HAD TO RAISE THE JEEPSTER UP TWO INCHES IN ORDER FOR THE CENTER TO PIN ON OUR LEAF SPRINGS TO LINE UP WITH THE CENTER LINE OF OUR FRONT AXLE, AND MORE IMPORTANTLY FOR THE BACK OF THE LEAF SPRING TO BE UNDERNEATH THE FRAME BECAUSE THAT IS WHERE OUR SWING SHACKLE IS GONNA MOUNT. NOW IT'S NOT A HUGE DEAL BECAUSE I KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE THAT A GOOD SET OF LEAF SPRINGS, THEY USUALLY SETTLE A COUPLE OF INCHES AFTER A DAY OF FOUR WHEELING. SO WE'LL PROBABLY GET BACK DOWN TO THAT RIDE HEIGHT THAT WE ORIGINALLY CHOSE. I STILL THINK I'M GONNA PUSH THIS FRONT BUMPER FORWARD, MAYBE AN INCH AND A HALF, TWO INCHES, JUST TO GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT MORE CLEARANCE FOR THESE TIRES BACK HERE AT THE BODY BECAUSE AS THE SUSPENSION COMPRESSES, THE AXLE'S GONNA MOVE BACK AND THAT TIRE'S GONNA GET DANGEROUSLY CLOSE TO THIS ROCKER PANEL. SO FOR NOW IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT OF EXTRA INSURANCE. TO PUSH OUR FRONT AXLE FORWARD THE FISH PLATES WE ORIGINALLY TACKED ONTO THE FRAME ARE CUT LOOSE AND MOVED FORWARD TWO INCHES, AND RETACKED ONTO THE FRAME. [ welder crackling ]

[ air hammer vibrating ]

(IAN)>> THE ORIGINAL LEAF SPRING MOUNTS ARE REMOVED FROM THE JEEPSTER, AND THE MOTO BUILT SWING SHACKLE MOUNTS ARE TACKED ON. [ grinding metal ] [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THE FRONT LEAVES ARE THEN BOLTED UP.

ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE AXLE HOUSING I'M USING A MOTO BUILT UBOLT ELIMINATOR KIT TO GET THE SPRING PAD CLOSER TO THE CENTER SECTION. ONCE IT'S BEEN CLEARANCE TO FIT AROUND THE ROCK JOCK CENTER, IT'S TACKED IN PLACE. THE AXLE IS THEN SLID BACK UNDERNEATH THE RIG AND CLAMPED TO THE LEAF PACK.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, ONE GREAT SET OF SHOCKS AND THE SUSPENSION SYSTEM IS COMPLETE!

(IAN)>> THE LAST ITEM WE NEED TO INSTALL ON OUR CUSTOM LEAF SPRING SUSPENSION SYSTEM IS A GOOD SET OF SHOCK ABSORBERS. NOW THESE ARE A LOT MORE IMPORTANT THAN YOU MIGHT THINK. THE LEAF SPRINGS WE USE IN THESE OFF ROAD CUSTOM KITS, WELL THEY'RE LOW LEAF PACKED, THEY'RE VERY SOFT. THEY TEND TO PICK UP A LOT OF SPRING ON THE HIGHWAY. SO YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE TO INSTALL A VERY GOOD SET OF SHOCK ABSORBERS TO PREVENT THAT FROM HAPPENING. NOW THE BEST WAY, I HAVE FOUND, TO MOUNT SHOCK ABSORBERS ON THIS PARTICULAR SETUP IS TO GO AHEAD AND JUST LET THE SUSPENSION COMPLETELY DROOP OUT UNDERNEATH THE FRAME. JUST HANG IT OFF THE FRAME, LET THE SWING SHACKLE KICK FORWARD. JUST BASICALLY HAVE IT SET IN FULL DROOP. THAT WAY YOU CAN INSTALL THE SHOCK AT ITS FULL EXTENSION. YOU DO NEED TO PLAN AHEAD THOUGH. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SHOCK IS FAR ENOUGH AWAY FROM THE TIRE THAT THE TIRE WILL NOT CONTACT IT AS THE AXLE ARTICULATES UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK. THEN YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE TO MOUNT THE LOWER SHOCK EYE EITHER ON TOP OR BEHIND THE AXLE SO THAT IT DOESN'T GET HUNG UP ON ANY TRAIL OBSTACLES, AND THEN THE TOP JUST HAS TO BE MOUNTED ONTO THE FRAME.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> WITH EVERYTHING IN PLACE, I CAN NOW FINISH WELD ALL THE WORK, AND I MEAN EVERYTHING. FRONT SHACKLE MOUNTS, THE FISH PLATES, FINISH PUTTING IN THE GUSSETS FOR THAT FULL WIDTH KIT, THE SHOCK TOWERS, I'LL EVEN PULL THE FRONT AXLE OUT AND WELD IN THE SPRING PERCHES. THE ONE THING I WILL NOT WELD THOUGH IS THE REAR SWING SHACKLE MOUNT. I ALWAYS LEAVE THAT TACKED IN PLACE UNTIL THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN IS DROPPED BACK INTO THE RIG, ALL THE SHEET METAL IS ON, AND THE WINCH IS SITTING ON THE FRONT BUMPER BECAUSE THAT WILL COMPRESS THE SUSPENSION, AND IF I NEED TO FINE TUNE THE ANGLE OF THAT SHACKLE IT'S GONNA BE A LOT EASIER JUST TO CUT THOSE TACKS ON AND MOVE IT BACK AND FORTH. I WILL ALSO ADDRESS THE CASTOR ANGLE AT THAT TIME. YOU CAN SEE THAT THE CASTOR ANGLE RIGHT NOW IS PRETTY SEVERE. THE KNUCKLE'S LEANING WAY BACK. THAT'S BECAUSE THERE'S NO WEIGHT ON THE FRONT OF THIS RIG. ONCE IT'S FULLY ASSEMBLED I'LL CHECK IT AGAIN. IF IT'S STILL EXCESSIVE, LEANING BACK TOO FAR, I CAN ACTUALLY FIX IT BY PUTTING WEDGES IN BETWEEN THE LEAF SPRINGS AND THE SPRING PAD JUST TO FINE TUNE IT TO GET THE ALIGNMENT PERFECT FOR DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS DUPLICATE THIS ENTIRE PROCESS ON THE BACK. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING OR TUNING ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION ON YOUR RIG YOU'RE GONNA DEAL WITH THREE KEY ALIGNMENT ANGLES. THE FIRST IS YOUR CASTOR ANGLE. NOW CASTOR IS THE COMPARISON OF TRUE VERTICAL, AND THAT'S THIS GREEN LINE, AND IT'S RELATIONSHIP TO THE PIVOT POINTS IN THE SUSPENSION, THE UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINT. NOW YOU ADJUST CASTOR ON AN AARM VEHICLE BY ACTUALLY MOVING THE LOCATIONS OF THE UPPER AARM IN THE SUSPENSION SYSTEM. IN THE SOLID AXLE CAR YOU'RE TWISTING THE WHOLE AXLE EITHER BACKWARDS OR FORWARDS. I LIKE TO RUN BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN DEGREES OF POSITIVE CASTOR. NOW THAT MEANS THAT THE PIVOT POINTS ARE LEANING BACK TOWARDS THE DRIVER. CASTOR HELPS THE TIRES SELF CENTER AFTER A TURN, AND IT ALSO HELPS THE VEHICLE TRACK GOOD AND STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD, AND IF YOU'RE FIGHTING DEATH WOBBLE ON YOUR RIG YOUR PROBLEM IS PROBABLY WITH YOUR CASTOR ANGLE BECAUSE AS YOU LIFTED THE SUSPENSION THERE IS A CHANCE THAT YOUR PIVOT POINTS EITHER WENT TO TRUE VERTICAL OR ZERO, OR EVEN WENT INTO A NEGATIVE CASTOR TERRITORY. THAT CAUSES THE TIRES AND WHEELS TO SHAKE. THE NEXT ANGLE IS CAMBER. NOW ONCE AGAIN WE'RE COMPARING IT TO TRUE VERTICAL, AND WE'RE COMPARING WHETHER OR NOT THE TIRE IS LEANED IN, WHICH IS NEGATIVE CAMBER, OR LEANED OUT, POSITIVE CAMBER. ON AN AARM VEHICLE WE CAN EASILY ADJUST THAT BY MOVING THE LOWER ARM EITHER FURTHER IN OR FURTHER OUT, AND CAUSING THE TIRE TO TILT. ON A SOLID AXLE RIG THERE'S NOT A LOT OF ADJUSTMENT IN THE CAMBER BECAUSE THE BALL JOINTS ARE MOUNTED ONTO THAT INNERC. YOU WILL SEE SOME ROAD RACE GUYS PLAY WITH CAMBER A LOT. THAT'S WHILE YOU'LL SEE THOSE CARS WITH THE TIRES PITCHED IN AT THE TOP, OR SITTING WITH NEGATIVE CAMBER WHEN STATIC OR DRIVING STRAIGHT. THAT'S BECAUSE WHEN THEY'RE TURNING INTO A CORNER THE BODY ROLL ACTUALLY CAUSES THAT TIRE TO STAND UP BACK TO ZERO DEGREES CAMBER, GIVING THEM THE ULTIMATE CONTACT PATCH ON THE ROAD. OUR MAIN GOAL IS JUST TO STAY AT ZERO DEGREES CAMBER THROUGH THE ENTIRE SUSPENSION CYCLE. THE LAST ALIGNMENT ANGLE IS TOE. NOW AT THIS POINT WE'RE LOOKING AT THE VEHICLE FROM THE TOP AND THESE ARE OUR TWO TIRES, THIS IS THE FRONT. IF THE TIRES ARE POINTED TOWARDS EACH OTHER THEY'RE TOEDIN. IF THEY'RE POINTED OUT, THEY'RE TOEDOUT. IF YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE STREET, YOU PROBABLY WANT TO RUN AT ABOUT ZERO TOE. THAT MEANS THE TIRES WILL JUST WEAR EVENLY AND HEAD STRAIGHT DOWN THE ROAD. IF YOU'RE DEALING WITH AN OFF ROAD CAR A LOT OF ULTRA FOUR GUYS HAVE HAD LUCK WITH A SOLID AXLE SUSPENSION GIVING THEMSELVES A LITTLE BIT OF TOE OUT. ABOUT AN INCH, MAYBE TWO. JUST SORT OF HELPS THE VEHICLE TRACK STRAIGHT THROUGH ROUGH TERRAIN.