More Overland Scout Episodes
XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds
Want more content like this?
Join the PowerNation Email NewsletterParts Used In This Episode
D and C Extreme
D&C Extreme Leaf Springs for International Scout
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the Official Welding Supplier to XOR
Matco Tools
MATCO Tools are the Offical Tool Supplier of XOR
The Industrial Depot
Tools, Hardware, and Shop Supplies
Video Transcript
(NARRATOR)>> TODAY JEREMY AND ELIZA ARE UPGRADING TO BIGGER AXLES ON THEIR OVERLAND SCOUT PROJECT. THEY'RE STRIPPING THEM DOWN, ADDING LOCKERS, AND SHOW YOU HOW TO SET THEM UP. THEN THE SCOUT'S GETTING A MUCH BEEFIER SUSPENSION. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON XOR.
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON THE '79 OVERLAND SCOUT PROJECT AND WE'LL BE INSTALLING THE NEW CUSTOM SUSPENSION, WHICH INCLUDES WIDER SPRINGS, CUSTOM MOUNTS, AND A REVERSE SHACKLE FLIP.
(ELIZA)>> AND WE'RE TAKING A SET OF AXLES OFF A KFIVE BLAZER, STRIPPING THEM DOWN, GETTING THEM GEARED UP, 4.56 GEARS AND DETROIT LOCKERS. GET OUT OF THE WAY JEREMY.
THERE WE GO, OKAY. WITH THE BRAKE LINES DISCONNECTED, THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TO REMOVE THE BRAKE DRUMS, AND IT MAY TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF PERSUASION.
AFTER THAT WE CAN CRACK OPEN THE DIFF COVER AND DUMP OUT THE OLD SMELLY GEAR OIL. CAREFUL OR YOU'LL MAKE A REAL MESS. ALL RIGHT, HERE WE GO.
NOW ONE OF THE MOST STUBBORN PARTS IS THE PINION NUT. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE IT BEFORE YOU CAN TAKE THE YOKE OUT. SO YOU WILL NEED AN IMPACT THAT PRODUCES A LOT OF TORQUE, LIKE OUR MATCO INFINIUM.
IT CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TEDIOUS TO REMOVE THE SHAFT LOCK PIN BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY TURN IT A LITTLE BIT AT A TIME. ONCE IT'S LOOSE YOU MAY HAVE TO RESORT TO USING YOUR FINGERS TO GET IT COMPLETELY OUT.
WITH IT FINALLY GONE THE SHAFT SIMPLY SLIDES OUT.
WITH THE PIN OUT, PUSH THE AXLE IN TOWARDS THE DIFF AND USE A MAGNET TO REMOVE THE CCLIP.
THERE IT COMES! DO THIS FOR THE OTHER SIDE AS WELL. THEN SLIDE BOTH AXLES OUT OF THE HOUSING.
WITH THE AXLE SHAFTS OUT, UNBOLT AND REMOVE BOTH BEARING CAPS. IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO MARK EACH CAP SO YOU REINSTALL THEM IN THE SAME LOCATION.
WITH THE DIFF OUT BE SURE AND COLLECT ALL SHIMS FROM EITHER SIDE. THAT WAY YOU CAN MEASURE THEIR WIDTH TO GIVE YOU A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR INSTALLING THE REGEARED ASSEMBLY AND SETTING THE BACKLASH. [ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> NOW WHEN YOU GO TO REMOVE THE BRAKE DRUM BACKING PLATE IT'S USUALLY BEEN THERE SINCE IT LEFT THE FACTORY. SO IT CAN TAKE A LOT OF PERSUASION TO BREAK LOOSE THOSE RETAINING NUTS. [ drill spinning ]
[ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> TO SEPARATE IT FROM THE AXLE HOUSING EVEN MORE PERSUASION MAY BE NEEDED. [ hammer hitting metal ]
(ELIZA)>> THESE DRUM BRAKES ARE GONNA HIT THE SCRAP PILE BECAUSE FOR OUR SCOUT WE ARE GOING TO INSTALL A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT ON THIS REAR AXLE.
[ hammer hitting metal ]
(ELIZA)>> THE LAST STEP IN TEARDOWN IS REMOVING THE PINION GEAR. SINCE IT IS HELD IN PLACE WITH A CRUSH SLEEVE YOU MAY ONCE AGAIN HAVE TO USE PERSUASION TO DISLODGE IT.
[ hammer hitting metal ]
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE'LL GET OUR NEW DIFF INSTALLED, AND LATER IT'S UPGRADING THE SUSPENSION, STICK AROUND!
(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR GM 10 BOLT CLEANED UP, DISASSEMBLED, AND OUR BRACKETS CUT OFF WE ARE READY TO INSTALL OUR 4.56 GEARS AND OUR EATON DETROIT LOCKER. WELL I'VE ALREADY SHIMMED UP THE PINION AND ALREADY PRESSED IN THE GEAR. SO PRETTY MUCH ALL THAT'S LEFT TO DO IS INSTALL OUR CRUSH BEARING FOR FINAL INSTALL.
(JEREMY)>> AND DON'T FORGET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW PINION BEARINGS INSTALL NEW BEARING RACES.
SINCE WE ARE ONLY CHECKING OUR PINION BEARING PRELOAD WE ARE NOT YET INSTALLING OUR PINION SEAL.
IT'S REAL IMPORTANT TO SLOWLY TIGHTEN YOUR PINION NUT TO ACHIEVE THE CORRECT PRELOAD. OURS IS GONNA BE SET TO ABOUT 15 TO 20 INCH POUNDS. SO IT'S OKAY TO TIGHTEN, TEST, AND REPEAT UNTIL YOU HIT YOUR MARK. TO ACHIEVE THIS YOU HAVE TO USE A DIAL INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH. ROTATE THE PINION SLOWLY TO CONFIRM HOW MUCH PRELOAD IS SHOWING ON THE DIAL. LIKE ELIZA SAID EARLIER, BE SURE TO MEASURE BOTH NEW SHIM PACKS WITH A CALIPER TO CONFIRM YOU ARE AS CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL MEASUREMENTS AS POSSIBLE.
(ELIZA)>> YAY!
(JEREMY)>> THE WAY WE LIKE TO POSITION OUR NEW SHIMS IS BY PULLING UP ON THE RING GEAR AND ALLOWING THE PACK AND DIFF TO FALL INTO PLACE.
SOMETHING ELSE TO KEEP IN MIND. BEFORE REMOVING THE BEARING CAPS MAKE SURE TO MARK AT LEAST ONE CAP, AND WHICH SIDE OF THE CARRIER THAT CAP SITS ON. SO BOTH CAPS WILL END UP BACK IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS.
(ELIZA)>> OKAY, NOW WITH OUR CAPS PUT IN WE'RE GONNA CHECK OUR BACKLASH AND WE'RE ALSO GOING TO CHECK THAT OUR PATTERN IS SET CORRECTLY.
(JEREMY)>> MEASURING BACKLASH IS ACTUALLY PRETTY SIMPLE. INSTALL A MAGNETIC DIAL INDICATOR ON THE HOUSING. POSITION THE BOTTOM OF THE INDICATOR STEM ON A TOOTH OF THE RING GEAR. ONCE IT IS RESTING ON THE TOOTH ZERO OUT THE DIAL INDICATOR. THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN IN THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH.
(ELIZA)>> OKAY, SO WE SHOULD BE AT BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN.
THERE IT IS!
OKAY SO THIS IS LEAD PAINT AND WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE CHECKING IS THE PATTERN ON WHICH THE TEETH ARE COMING TOGETHER AT. SO WE WANT TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT WE'RE CHECKING OUR DRIVER'S SIDE AS WELL AS OUR CLOSED SIDE OF THE GEAR, AND WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PATTERN IS GONNA SIT PRETTY MUCH EVENLY IN BETWEEN THE HEEL AND TOE OF THE PINION GEAR. SO WE'RE PAINTING ABOUT FIVE SO THAT WE CAN CHECK THAT THEY'RE ALL UNIFORM. THAT IT'S NOT JUST CATCHING ON ONE PART OF THE GEAR BETTER THAN THE OTHER. IT'S IMPORTANT FOR THE LIFE OF THE GEAR SET, AND SO THAT WAY WE WON'T GET ANY KIND OF HUMMING, OR NOISE, OR ANY CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. SO HERE WE GO.
OKAY SO WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR IS THAT THE WEAR IS GOING TO BE IN BETWEEN THE TOOTH ITSELF, BETWEEN THE TOE AND THE HEEL OF THE GEAR AS WELL AS DRIVER'S SIDE AND THE CLOSED SIDE. YOU CAN SEE THAT'S WHERE IT'S MARKING, SO THAT'S WHERE IT'S TURNING IN TOGETHER.
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, I THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF TIME TO TALK ABOUT SOMETHING THAT WE KIND OF TAKE FOR GRANTED BUT DOES A WHOLE LOT OF WORK UNDERNEATH YOUR HOOD, AND THAT'S YOUR DISTRIBUTOR. EVENTUALLY YOU'RE GONNA WANNA BUY AN AFTERMARKET DISTRIBUTOR FOR YOUR RIG, AND THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF DISTRIBUTORS YOU CAN RUN IN YOUR RIG, AND WE'RE JUST GONNA TAKE A SECOND TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE. THE AFTERMARKET COMPANIES HAVE MADE A LOT OF ADVANCES WITH THEIR DISTRIBUTORS, BUT THE BASICS ARE STILL THE SAME. THEY STILL SUPPLY SPARK TO THE CYLINDERS AND THEY ALSO DRIVE YOUR OIL PUMP. YOU MAY HEAR SOME GUYS TALK ABOUT THE IGNITION BOXES THEY NEED TO RUN THEIR DISTRIBUTORS. AN EASY WAY TO TELL IF YOU NEED AN IGNITION BOX IS JUST LOOK AT THE WIRING. DISTRIBUTORS THAT HAVE A TWO WIRE HOOK UP, OR PIG TAIL, NEED AN IGNITION BOX OR AN IGNITION MODULE TO SEND THE SPARK TO A REMOTE COIL THAT IS MOUNTED SOMEWHERE ON YOUR RIG. SO THESE TWO WIRES SEND THE SIGNAL FROM YOUR MAGNETIC PICK UP TO YOUR BOX AND THAT BOX IS WHAT TELLS YOUR COIL TO FIRE. NOW THERE ARE ALSO READY TO RUN STYLE DISTRIBUTORS. THESE DISTRIBUTORS HAVE THE IGNITION MODULES BUILT DIRECTLY INTO THEM, AND THE HOOK UPS HAVE JUST A COUPLE MORE WIRES. THERE'S A GROUND AND TACH LEAD, AND THE WIRES THAT GO TO THE COIL. THESE TWO DISTRIBUTORS MAY LOOK EXACTLY THE SAME BUT LIKE WE JUST SHOWED YOU, THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO OF THEM IS A TWO WIRE HOOK UP VERSUS A THREE WIRE HOOK UP. THERE'S EVEN DISTRIBUTORS THAT HAVE THE IGNITION MODULE AND THE COIL MOUNTED DIRECTLY TO THEM, CHECK THIS OUT. HEI STYLE DISTRIBUTOR HAS THE COIL MOUNTED DIRECTLY ON TOP OF IT, AND THE HOOK UP'S PRETTY SIMPLE. ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS SUPPLY POWER AND HOOK UP YOUR TACH. NOW EACH DISTRIBUTOR COULD WORK GREAT FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS. IF YOU'RE THINKING ABOUT UPGRADING YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM THERE'S JUST A COUPLE OF THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND, AND FIRST IS ROOM. NOW KEEP IN MIND HOW MUCH ROOM YOU HAVE UNDERNEATH YOUR HOOD AND BETWEEN YOUR FIREWALL. YOU DON'T WANT TO MAKE IT HARD TO GAIN ACCESS TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR, AND IF YOU'RE GONNA BE RUNNING AN IGNITION BOX YOU'VE GOT TO FIND A SPOT TO MOUNT THIS SOMEWHERE, AND SECOND IS IF YOU WANT TO USE A READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR OR ONE WITH AN EXTERNAL IGNITION MODULE, AND THIRD IS APPLICATION. THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT AFTERMARKET COMPANIES OUT THERE MAKING DISTRIBUTORS. SO MAKE SURE YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE FOR YOUR APPLICATION, AND FOR US AND OUR WILLYS WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING ABOUT 900 HORSEPOWER. SO WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE WE GET OURS JUST RIGHT.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S MUCH BIGGER PARTS AND PIECES FOR OUR NEW SCOUT SUSPENSION, STAY TUNED.
(ELIZA)>> REMEMBER WHEN I TOLD YOU THAT OUR STOCK SCOUT SUSPENSION WAS AS BAD AS A CARNIVAL RIDE? WELL THE CARNIVAL HAS PACKED UP AND THE RIDES ARE GONE. WE NOW HAVE ROOM TO HANG OUR NEW SUSPENSION SO THAT WE CAN RIDE ON OUR 37'S.
(JEREMY)>> NOW TO PULL THAT OFF WE GOT THIS KIT FROM DNC EXTREME. IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GET YOUR SUSPENSION UNDERNEATH YOUR TRUCK. IT COMES WITH YOUR FRONT SPRING MOUNTS, SOME SHACKLES, AND SOME BUSHINGS. WE ALSO WENT AHEAD AND GOT THEIR LEAF SPRINGS, AND THAT SHOULD MAKE IT EASY TO GET THOSE 37'S UNDERNEATH OUR SCOUT. NOW YOU GUYS REMEMBER THOSE GARBAGE BAG COMMERCIALS FROM WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? WIMPY, WIMPY, WIMPY, HEAVY, HEAVY DUTY!
OBVIOUSLY THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE FRONT FACTORY SHACKLE MOUNT. WE'RE USING A CUTOFF WHEEL BUT YOU CAN USE A TORCH, SAWZALL, OR ANYTHING YOU HAVE TO GET THE JOB DONE. WE MOVED TO THE BACK BECAUSE IT'S GOT TO GO TOO. UNLIKE THE FRONT, THE LOCATION OF THIS MOUNT ACTUALLY MAKES USING A CUTOFF WHEEL A BETTER CHOICE DUE TO THE MOUNT OVERLAPPING THE FRAME. [ hammer banging metal ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH A LITTLE PERSUASION THE MOUNT COMES OFF CLEANLY. [ grinding metal ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR FRAME CLEANED OFF WE'RE USING OUR LINCOLN MULTI ANGLE MAGNET TO SQUARELY POSITION THE NEW MOUNT IN THE CORRECT LOCATION. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> SINCE THIS IS A VITAL PART OF YOUR SUSPENSION MAKE SURE TO BURN IT IN THOROUGHLY.
NOW TO FIGURE OUT WHERE WE'RE GONNA PUT OUR REAR MOUNT WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM EYE TO EYE IN THE SPRING. WE'LL TAKE THAT MEASUREMENT, SUBTRACT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH. THAT'S GONNA TELL US WHERE TO MARK OUR CHASSIS TO PUT OUR BUSHING. WHY DID WE SUBTRACT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH? WELL THAT'S GONNA GIVE OUR SHACKLE A 20 TO 30 DEGREE ANGLE AND ACTUALLY HELP OUR TRUCK RIDE A WHOLE LOT BETTER.
WITH THE HOLE FOR THE BUSHING DRILLED ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE FRAME, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO USE A GRINDER TO BEVEL THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOLE AND THE BUSHING ITSELF FOR GOOD WELD PENETRATION. SINCE WE HAD TO DRILL RIGHT NEXT TO AN EXISTING HOLE IN THE FRAME, WHEN WE WELD IN THE BUSHING, WE'LL FILL IT IN FOR STRENGTH. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THE REASON WHY WE BEVELED THE BUSHING IS BECAUSE WE HAVE TO GRIND THE WELD FLAT SO THE NEW RUBBER BUSHING CAN SIT DIRECTLY AGAINST THE FRAME. OBVIOUSLY MAKE SURE TO LET EVERYTHING COOL DOWN BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR NEW RUBBER BUSHINGS. [ mallet tapping ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR SLEEVE INSTALLED WE CAN NOW HANG OUR NEW SHACKLE AND ATTACH THE OTHER END OF THE NEW LEAF SPRING.
(ELIZA)>> NOW WITH THIS IN PLACE WE CAN CLEAR OUR 37'S. NOW IT'S ONTO OUR PASSENGER SIDE. GOD THIS THING IS HUGE, IT'S CRAZY!
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL GET THE REAR SUSPENSION ALL BUTTONED UP. DON'T GO AWAY!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND THE SUSPENSION UPGRADE ON OUR '79 OVERLAND SCOUT. JUST LIKE UP FRONT, THE STOCK REAR SHACKLE MOUNT HAS TO GO, AND AGAIN, JUST LIKE UP FRONT, A LITTLE PERSUASION GOES A LONG WAY.
(ELIZA)>> WOO!
UNLIKE UP FRONT WE'RE NOT GOING TO CUT OUT THE SPRING MOUNT. WE ARE GOING TO MODIFY IT, AND THAT STARTS WITH GRINDING OFF SOME OF THE WELDS THAT HOLD THE OUTSIDE OF THE BRACKET TO ITS SUPPORT. [ metal grinding ]
(JEREMY)>> WHAT WE WANT TO DO IS USE AS MUCH OF THIS BRACKET AS POSSIBLE. SO WE'RE GONNA TRY TO CUT WAY IN HERE. SO ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS SLIDE THIS PART OF THE BRACKET OUT. WE DON'T HAVE ANY CUTOFF WHEELS OR CUTOFF TOOLS THAT CAN FIT IN THERE CAUSE THE GAP IS TOO SMALL.
SO COOL PART ABOUT LINCOLN, THEY SENT US ONE OF THEIR SMALLER PLASMA TORCHES, AND WE CAN ACTUALLY LAY THAT ALMOST RIGHT IN THE CORNER. MAKE A COUPLE PASSES TO JUST SCORE IT, AND THEN I'LL TWIST AND BEND IT AND IT SHOULD SNAP RIGHT OFF.
SINCE THAT SAT THERE ORIGINALLY, TO MAKE ROOM FOR OUR NEW SPRING ALL WE'RE GONNA DO IS SLIDE THIS OUT UNTIL THE INSIDE DIMENSION IS THREE INCHES. SO BY CUTTING THIS COMPLETELY OFF, AND BY GOING AND GETTING A PIECE OF PIPE AND CUTTING IT TO EXACTLY THREE INCHES, WE CAN PUT IT ON THERE, PUT THIS ON HERE, RUN A BOLT THROUGH HERE AND ACTUALLY TIGHTEN THE BOLT DOWN. NOW THAT'S GONNA KEEP OUR HOLES COMPLETELY IN LINE WITH EACH OTHER, AND WILL GIVE US THE RIGHT DISTANCE WE NEED, WHICH IS EXACTLY THREE INCHES. ONCE THAT'S ALL IN PLACE WE CAN GRAB OUR WELDER AND PUT A COUPLE OF TACKS IN, PULL THE BOLT OUT, PULL THE BUSHING OUT, AND MAKE SURE OUR THREE INCHES ARE THE SAME AND WE'LL KNOW THAT OUR BOLT WILL LINE UP PERFECTLY TO GET THE SPRING IN PLACE.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> ONCE THE BRACKET IS TACKED INTO PLACE WE WILL REMOVE THE BUSHING TO HAVE FULL ACCESS FOR BURNING IT IN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> STILL FITS! ALTHOUGH WE'RE NOT QUITE DONE WITH THIS WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA GO AND MAKE SOME GUSSETS JUST TO STRENGTHEN THIS ALL BACK UP SINCE WE LITERALLY CUT IT APART.
(ELIZA)>> WE MADE CARDBOARD TEMPLATES AND THEN CUT THOSE SHAPES OUT OF SOME THREE SIXTEENTHS PLATE STEEL. [ welder crackling ]
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WE NEED TO CLEAN UP THE FRAME WHERE WE HAD REMOVED THE SHACKLE MOUNT. UNFORTUNATELY THAT IS STRAIGHT OVERHEAD AND QUITE A WORK OUT. MY ARMS HURT. BACK TO THE JUST LIKE UP FRONT THING, WE TOOK THE LENGTH OF THE SPRING BETWEEN IT'S EYELETS. THEN SUBTRACTED THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH. SO THAT BECOMES THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO BUSHINGS. OUR NEW MOUNTS COME IN THE KIT BUT THEY HAVE TO BE WELDED TOGETHER BEFORE TACKING THEM IN PLACE. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE RUBBER BUSHING BEFORE YOU BURN THESE IN. [ welder crackling ]
[ mallet tapping ]
(ELIZA)>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ON WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW OR FOR DETAILS ON OTHER XOR PROJECTS JUST HEAD ON OVER TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM, AND CHECK IT OUT.
(JEREMY)>> MAN THOSE ARE HEAVY AREN'T THEY?
(ELIZA)>> THEY ARE HEAVY, THICK SPRINGS!
Show Full Transcript
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON THE '79 OVERLAND SCOUT PROJECT AND WE'LL BE INSTALLING THE NEW CUSTOM SUSPENSION, WHICH INCLUDES WIDER SPRINGS, CUSTOM MOUNTS, AND A REVERSE SHACKLE FLIP.
(ELIZA)>> AND WE'RE TAKING A SET OF AXLES OFF A KFIVE BLAZER, STRIPPING THEM DOWN, GETTING THEM GEARED UP, 4.56 GEARS AND DETROIT LOCKERS. GET OUT OF THE WAY JEREMY.
THERE WE GO, OKAY. WITH THE BRAKE LINES DISCONNECTED, THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TO REMOVE THE BRAKE DRUMS, AND IT MAY TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF PERSUASION.
AFTER THAT WE CAN CRACK OPEN THE DIFF COVER AND DUMP OUT THE OLD SMELLY GEAR OIL. CAREFUL OR YOU'LL MAKE A REAL MESS. ALL RIGHT, HERE WE GO.
NOW ONE OF THE MOST STUBBORN PARTS IS THE PINION NUT. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE IT BEFORE YOU CAN TAKE THE YOKE OUT. SO YOU WILL NEED AN IMPACT THAT PRODUCES A LOT OF TORQUE, LIKE OUR MATCO INFINIUM.
IT CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TEDIOUS TO REMOVE THE SHAFT LOCK PIN BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY TURN IT A LITTLE BIT AT A TIME. ONCE IT'S LOOSE YOU MAY HAVE TO RESORT TO USING YOUR FINGERS TO GET IT COMPLETELY OUT.
WITH IT FINALLY GONE THE SHAFT SIMPLY SLIDES OUT.
WITH THE PIN OUT, PUSH THE AXLE IN TOWARDS THE DIFF AND USE A MAGNET TO REMOVE THE CCLIP.
THERE IT COMES! DO THIS FOR THE OTHER SIDE AS WELL. THEN SLIDE BOTH AXLES OUT OF THE HOUSING.
WITH THE AXLE SHAFTS OUT, UNBOLT AND REMOVE BOTH BEARING CAPS. IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO MARK EACH CAP SO YOU REINSTALL THEM IN THE SAME LOCATION.
WITH THE DIFF OUT BE SURE AND COLLECT ALL SHIMS FROM EITHER SIDE. THAT WAY YOU CAN MEASURE THEIR WIDTH TO GIVE YOU A GOOD STARTING POINT FOR INSTALLING THE REGEARED ASSEMBLY AND SETTING THE BACKLASH. [ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> NOW WHEN YOU GO TO REMOVE THE BRAKE DRUM BACKING PLATE IT'S USUALLY BEEN THERE SINCE IT LEFT THE FACTORY. SO IT CAN TAKE A LOT OF PERSUASION TO BREAK LOOSE THOSE RETAINING NUTS. [ drill spinning ]
[ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> TO SEPARATE IT FROM THE AXLE HOUSING EVEN MORE PERSUASION MAY BE NEEDED. [ hammer hitting metal ]
(ELIZA)>> THESE DRUM BRAKES ARE GONNA HIT THE SCRAP PILE BECAUSE FOR OUR SCOUT WE ARE GOING TO INSTALL A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT ON THIS REAR AXLE.
[ hammer hitting metal ]
(ELIZA)>> THE LAST STEP IN TEARDOWN IS REMOVING THE PINION GEAR. SINCE IT IS HELD IN PLACE WITH A CRUSH SLEEVE YOU MAY ONCE AGAIN HAVE TO USE PERSUASION TO DISLODGE IT.
[ hammer hitting metal ]
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE'LL GET OUR NEW DIFF INSTALLED, AND LATER IT'S UPGRADING THE SUSPENSION, STICK AROUND!
(ELIZA)>> WITH OUR GM 10 BOLT CLEANED UP, DISASSEMBLED, AND OUR BRACKETS CUT OFF WE ARE READY TO INSTALL OUR 4.56 GEARS AND OUR EATON DETROIT LOCKER. WELL I'VE ALREADY SHIMMED UP THE PINION AND ALREADY PRESSED IN THE GEAR. SO PRETTY MUCH ALL THAT'S LEFT TO DO IS INSTALL OUR CRUSH BEARING FOR FINAL INSTALL.
(JEREMY)>> AND DON'T FORGET, WHEN INSTALLING NEW PINION BEARINGS INSTALL NEW BEARING RACES.
SINCE WE ARE ONLY CHECKING OUR PINION BEARING PRELOAD WE ARE NOT YET INSTALLING OUR PINION SEAL.
IT'S REAL IMPORTANT TO SLOWLY TIGHTEN YOUR PINION NUT TO ACHIEVE THE CORRECT PRELOAD. OURS IS GONNA BE SET TO ABOUT 15 TO 20 INCH POUNDS. SO IT'S OKAY TO TIGHTEN, TEST, AND REPEAT UNTIL YOU HIT YOUR MARK. TO ACHIEVE THIS YOU HAVE TO USE A DIAL INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH. ROTATE THE PINION SLOWLY TO CONFIRM HOW MUCH PRELOAD IS SHOWING ON THE DIAL. LIKE ELIZA SAID EARLIER, BE SURE TO MEASURE BOTH NEW SHIM PACKS WITH A CALIPER TO CONFIRM YOU ARE AS CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL MEASUREMENTS AS POSSIBLE.
(ELIZA)>> YAY!
(JEREMY)>> THE WAY WE LIKE TO POSITION OUR NEW SHIMS IS BY PULLING UP ON THE RING GEAR AND ALLOWING THE PACK AND DIFF TO FALL INTO PLACE.
SOMETHING ELSE TO KEEP IN MIND. BEFORE REMOVING THE BEARING CAPS MAKE SURE TO MARK AT LEAST ONE CAP, AND WHICH SIDE OF THE CARRIER THAT CAP SITS ON. SO BOTH CAPS WILL END UP BACK IN THEIR ORIGINAL POSITIONS.
(ELIZA)>> OKAY, NOW WITH OUR CAPS PUT IN WE'RE GONNA CHECK OUR BACKLASH AND WE'RE ALSO GOING TO CHECK THAT OUR PATTERN IS SET CORRECTLY.
(JEREMY)>> MEASURING BACKLASH IS ACTUALLY PRETTY SIMPLE. INSTALL A MAGNETIC DIAL INDICATOR ON THE HOUSING. POSITION THE BOTTOM OF THE INDICATOR STEM ON A TOOTH OF THE RING GEAR. ONCE IT IS RESTING ON THE TOOTH ZERO OUT THE DIAL INDICATOR. THESE MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN IN THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH.
(ELIZA)>> OKAY, SO WE SHOULD BE AT BETWEEN FIVE AND SEVEN.
THERE IT IS!
OKAY SO THIS IS LEAD PAINT AND WHAT WE'RE GOING TO BE CHECKING IS THE PATTERN ON WHICH THE TEETH ARE COMING TOGETHER AT. SO WE WANT TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT WE'RE CHECKING OUR DRIVER'S SIDE AS WELL AS OUR CLOSED SIDE OF THE GEAR, AND WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE PATTERN IS GONNA SIT PRETTY MUCH EVENLY IN BETWEEN THE HEEL AND TOE OF THE PINION GEAR. SO WE'RE PAINTING ABOUT FIVE SO THAT WE CAN CHECK THAT THEY'RE ALL UNIFORM. THAT IT'S NOT JUST CATCHING ON ONE PART OF THE GEAR BETTER THAN THE OTHER. IT'S IMPORTANT FOR THE LIFE OF THE GEAR SET, AND SO THAT WAY WE WON'T GET ANY KIND OF HUMMING, OR NOISE, OR ANY CATASTROPHIC FAILURE. SO HERE WE GO.
OKAY SO WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR IS THAT THE WEAR IS GOING TO BE IN BETWEEN THE TOOTH ITSELF, BETWEEN THE TOE AND THE HEEL OF THE GEAR AS WELL AS DRIVER'S SIDE AND THE CLOSED SIDE. YOU CAN SEE THAT'S WHERE IT'S MARKING, SO THAT'S WHERE IT'S TURNING IN TOGETHER.
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, I THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF TIME TO TALK ABOUT SOMETHING THAT WE KIND OF TAKE FOR GRANTED BUT DOES A WHOLE LOT OF WORK UNDERNEATH YOUR HOOD, AND THAT'S YOUR DISTRIBUTOR. EVENTUALLY YOU'RE GONNA WANNA BUY AN AFTERMARKET DISTRIBUTOR FOR YOUR RIG, AND THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF DISTRIBUTORS YOU CAN RUN IN YOUR RIG, AND WE'RE JUST GONNA TAKE A SECOND TO SHOW YOU THE DIFFERENCE. THE AFTERMARKET COMPANIES HAVE MADE A LOT OF ADVANCES WITH THEIR DISTRIBUTORS, BUT THE BASICS ARE STILL THE SAME. THEY STILL SUPPLY SPARK TO THE CYLINDERS AND THEY ALSO DRIVE YOUR OIL PUMP. YOU MAY HEAR SOME GUYS TALK ABOUT THE IGNITION BOXES THEY NEED TO RUN THEIR DISTRIBUTORS. AN EASY WAY TO TELL IF YOU NEED AN IGNITION BOX IS JUST LOOK AT THE WIRING. DISTRIBUTORS THAT HAVE A TWO WIRE HOOK UP, OR PIG TAIL, NEED AN IGNITION BOX OR AN IGNITION MODULE TO SEND THE SPARK TO A REMOTE COIL THAT IS MOUNTED SOMEWHERE ON YOUR RIG. SO THESE TWO WIRES SEND THE SIGNAL FROM YOUR MAGNETIC PICK UP TO YOUR BOX AND THAT BOX IS WHAT TELLS YOUR COIL TO FIRE. NOW THERE ARE ALSO READY TO RUN STYLE DISTRIBUTORS. THESE DISTRIBUTORS HAVE THE IGNITION MODULES BUILT DIRECTLY INTO THEM, AND THE HOOK UPS HAVE JUST A COUPLE MORE WIRES. THERE'S A GROUND AND TACH LEAD, AND THE WIRES THAT GO TO THE COIL. THESE TWO DISTRIBUTORS MAY LOOK EXACTLY THE SAME BUT LIKE WE JUST SHOWED YOU, THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO OF THEM IS A TWO WIRE HOOK UP VERSUS A THREE WIRE HOOK UP. THERE'S EVEN DISTRIBUTORS THAT HAVE THE IGNITION MODULE AND THE COIL MOUNTED DIRECTLY TO THEM, CHECK THIS OUT. HEI STYLE DISTRIBUTOR HAS THE COIL MOUNTED DIRECTLY ON TOP OF IT, AND THE HOOK UP'S PRETTY SIMPLE. ALL YOU'VE GOT TO DO IS SUPPLY POWER AND HOOK UP YOUR TACH. NOW EACH DISTRIBUTOR COULD WORK GREAT FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS. IF YOU'RE THINKING ABOUT UPGRADING YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM THERE'S JUST A COUPLE OF THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND, AND FIRST IS ROOM. NOW KEEP IN MIND HOW MUCH ROOM YOU HAVE UNDERNEATH YOUR HOOD AND BETWEEN YOUR FIREWALL. YOU DON'T WANT TO MAKE IT HARD TO GAIN ACCESS TO YOUR DISTRIBUTOR, AND IF YOU'RE GONNA BE RUNNING AN IGNITION BOX YOU'VE GOT TO FIND A SPOT TO MOUNT THIS SOMEWHERE, AND SECOND IS IF YOU WANT TO USE A READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR OR ONE WITH AN EXTERNAL IGNITION MODULE, AND THIRD IS APPLICATION. THERE'S A LOT OF DIFFERENT AFTERMARKET COMPANIES OUT THERE MAKING DISTRIBUTORS. SO MAKE SURE YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE FOR YOUR APPLICATION, AND FOR US AND OUR WILLYS WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING ABOUT 900 HORSEPOWER. SO WE'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE WE GET OURS JUST RIGHT.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S MUCH BIGGER PARTS AND PIECES FOR OUR NEW SCOUT SUSPENSION, STAY TUNED.
(ELIZA)>> REMEMBER WHEN I TOLD YOU THAT OUR STOCK SCOUT SUSPENSION WAS AS BAD AS A CARNIVAL RIDE? WELL THE CARNIVAL HAS PACKED UP AND THE RIDES ARE GONE. WE NOW HAVE ROOM TO HANG OUR NEW SUSPENSION SO THAT WE CAN RIDE ON OUR 37'S.
(JEREMY)>> NOW TO PULL THAT OFF WE GOT THIS KIT FROM DNC EXTREME. IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GET YOUR SUSPENSION UNDERNEATH YOUR TRUCK. IT COMES WITH YOUR FRONT SPRING MOUNTS, SOME SHACKLES, AND SOME BUSHINGS. WE ALSO WENT AHEAD AND GOT THEIR LEAF SPRINGS, AND THAT SHOULD MAKE IT EASY TO GET THOSE 37'S UNDERNEATH OUR SCOUT. NOW YOU GUYS REMEMBER THOSE GARBAGE BAG COMMERCIALS FROM WHEN YOU WERE YOUNGER? WIMPY, WIMPY, WIMPY, HEAVY, HEAVY DUTY!
OBVIOUSLY THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE FRONT FACTORY SHACKLE MOUNT. WE'RE USING A CUTOFF WHEEL BUT YOU CAN USE A TORCH, SAWZALL, OR ANYTHING YOU HAVE TO GET THE JOB DONE. WE MOVED TO THE BACK BECAUSE IT'S GOT TO GO TOO. UNLIKE THE FRONT, THE LOCATION OF THIS MOUNT ACTUALLY MAKES USING A CUTOFF WHEEL A BETTER CHOICE DUE TO THE MOUNT OVERLAPPING THE FRAME. [ hammer banging metal ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH A LITTLE PERSUASION THE MOUNT COMES OFF CLEANLY. [ grinding metal ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR FRAME CLEANED OFF WE'RE USING OUR LINCOLN MULTI ANGLE MAGNET TO SQUARELY POSITION THE NEW MOUNT IN THE CORRECT LOCATION. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> SINCE THIS IS A VITAL PART OF YOUR SUSPENSION MAKE SURE TO BURN IT IN THOROUGHLY.
NOW TO FIGURE OUT WHERE WE'RE GONNA PUT OUR REAR MOUNT WE NEED TO MEASURE FROM EYE TO EYE IN THE SPRING. WE'LL TAKE THAT MEASUREMENT, SUBTRACT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH. THAT'S GONNA TELL US WHERE TO MARK OUR CHASSIS TO PUT OUR BUSHING. WHY DID WE SUBTRACT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH? WELL THAT'S GONNA GIVE OUR SHACKLE A 20 TO 30 DEGREE ANGLE AND ACTUALLY HELP OUR TRUCK RIDE A WHOLE LOT BETTER.
WITH THE HOLE FOR THE BUSHING DRILLED ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE FRAME, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO USE A GRINDER TO BEVEL THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOLE AND THE BUSHING ITSELF FOR GOOD WELD PENETRATION. SINCE WE HAD TO DRILL RIGHT NEXT TO AN EXISTING HOLE IN THE FRAME, WHEN WE WELD IN THE BUSHING, WE'LL FILL IT IN FOR STRENGTH. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> THE REASON WHY WE BEVELED THE BUSHING IS BECAUSE WE HAVE TO GRIND THE WELD FLAT SO THE NEW RUBBER BUSHING CAN SIT DIRECTLY AGAINST THE FRAME. OBVIOUSLY MAKE SURE TO LET EVERYTHING COOL DOWN BEFORE INSTALLING YOUR NEW RUBBER BUSHINGS. [ mallet tapping ]
(JEREMY)>> WITH OUR SLEEVE INSTALLED WE CAN NOW HANG OUR NEW SHACKLE AND ATTACH THE OTHER END OF THE NEW LEAF SPRING.
(ELIZA)>> NOW WITH THIS IN PLACE WE CAN CLEAR OUR 37'S. NOW IT'S ONTO OUR PASSENGER SIDE. GOD THIS THING IS HUGE, IT'S CRAZY!
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL GET THE REAR SUSPENSION ALL BUTTONED UP. DON'T GO AWAY!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND THE SUSPENSION UPGRADE ON OUR '79 OVERLAND SCOUT. JUST LIKE UP FRONT, THE STOCK REAR SHACKLE MOUNT HAS TO GO, AND AGAIN, JUST LIKE UP FRONT, A LITTLE PERSUASION GOES A LONG WAY.
(ELIZA)>> WOO!
UNLIKE UP FRONT WE'RE NOT GOING TO CUT OUT THE SPRING MOUNT. WE ARE GOING TO MODIFY IT, AND THAT STARTS WITH GRINDING OFF SOME OF THE WELDS THAT HOLD THE OUTSIDE OF THE BRACKET TO ITS SUPPORT. [ metal grinding ]
(JEREMY)>> WHAT WE WANT TO DO IS USE AS MUCH OF THIS BRACKET AS POSSIBLE. SO WE'RE GONNA TRY TO CUT WAY IN HERE. SO ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS SLIDE THIS PART OF THE BRACKET OUT. WE DON'T HAVE ANY CUTOFF WHEELS OR CUTOFF TOOLS THAT CAN FIT IN THERE CAUSE THE GAP IS TOO SMALL.
SO COOL PART ABOUT LINCOLN, THEY SENT US ONE OF THEIR SMALLER PLASMA TORCHES, AND WE CAN ACTUALLY LAY THAT ALMOST RIGHT IN THE CORNER. MAKE A COUPLE PASSES TO JUST SCORE IT, AND THEN I'LL TWIST AND BEND IT AND IT SHOULD SNAP RIGHT OFF.
SINCE THAT SAT THERE ORIGINALLY, TO MAKE ROOM FOR OUR NEW SPRING ALL WE'RE GONNA DO IS SLIDE THIS OUT UNTIL THE INSIDE DIMENSION IS THREE INCHES. SO BY CUTTING THIS COMPLETELY OFF, AND BY GOING AND GETTING A PIECE OF PIPE AND CUTTING IT TO EXACTLY THREE INCHES, WE CAN PUT IT ON THERE, PUT THIS ON HERE, RUN A BOLT THROUGH HERE AND ACTUALLY TIGHTEN THE BOLT DOWN. NOW THAT'S GONNA KEEP OUR HOLES COMPLETELY IN LINE WITH EACH OTHER, AND WILL GIVE US THE RIGHT DISTANCE WE NEED, WHICH IS EXACTLY THREE INCHES. ONCE THAT'S ALL IN PLACE WE CAN GRAB OUR WELDER AND PUT A COUPLE OF TACKS IN, PULL THE BOLT OUT, PULL THE BUSHING OUT, AND MAKE SURE OUR THREE INCHES ARE THE SAME AND WE'LL KNOW THAT OUR BOLT WILL LINE UP PERFECTLY TO GET THE SPRING IN PLACE.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> ONCE THE BRACKET IS TACKED INTO PLACE WE WILL REMOVE THE BUSHING TO HAVE FULL ACCESS FOR BURNING IT IN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> STILL FITS! ALTHOUGH WE'RE NOT QUITE DONE WITH THIS WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA GO AND MAKE SOME GUSSETS JUST TO STRENGTHEN THIS ALL BACK UP SINCE WE LITERALLY CUT IT APART.
(ELIZA)>> WE MADE CARDBOARD TEMPLATES AND THEN CUT THOSE SHAPES OUT OF SOME THREE SIXTEENTHS PLATE STEEL. [ welder crackling ]
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> WE NEED TO CLEAN UP THE FRAME WHERE WE HAD REMOVED THE SHACKLE MOUNT. UNFORTUNATELY THAT IS STRAIGHT OVERHEAD AND QUITE A WORK OUT. MY ARMS HURT. BACK TO THE JUST LIKE UP FRONT THING, WE TOOK THE LENGTH OF THE SPRING BETWEEN IT'S EYELETS. THEN SUBTRACTED THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH. SO THAT BECOMES THE DISTANCE BETWEEN THE TWO BUSHINGS. OUR NEW MOUNTS COME IN THE KIT BUT THEY HAVE TO BE WELDED TOGETHER BEFORE TACKING THEM IN PLACE. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE RUBBER BUSHING BEFORE YOU BURN THESE IN. [ welder crackling ]
[ mallet tapping ]
(ELIZA)>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ON WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW OR FOR DETAILS ON OTHER XOR PROJECTS JUST HEAD ON OVER TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM, AND CHECK IT OUT.
(JEREMY)>> MAN THOSE ARE HEAVY AREN'T THEY?
(ELIZA)>> THEY ARE HEAVY, THICK SPRINGS!
