Overland Scout Fire-Up!

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ELIZA AND JEREMY ARE FIRING UP THEIR OVERLAND SCOUT FOR THE FIRST TIME, AND THEY'RE GETTING THEIR SEAT AND FIVE POINT HARNESSES INSTALLED. IT'S ALL RIGHT HERE ON XOR.

(JEREMY)>> WELL SINCE THE LAST TIME YOU GUYS SAW UNDER THE HOOD OF THE SCOUT WE WENT AHEAD AND TOOK CARE OF A COUPLE OF THINGS, AND THIS IS WHAT WE DID. FIRST UP IS THE WATER PUMP. HERE'S A LITTLE TIP WHEN INSTALLING THE GASKETS FOR YOUR WATER PUMP. PUT A LITTLE BIT OF RTV ON THEM. THAT WILL HOLD YOUR GASKETS DIRECTLY TO YOUR BLOCK SO THEY DON'T FALL OUT OF PLACE. TO CLEAR THE INTAKE AND THE THROTTLE BODY WE HAD TO SHIFT OUR WATER PUMP OUT WITH A COUPLE SPACERS.

TO KEEP THE GASKETS IN PLACE MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL ALL OF THE BOLTS, EVEN THOUGH WE'RE GONNA BE TAKING A COUPLE OUT A LITTLE BIT LATER.

AND BECAUSE WE ALREADY MOUNTED THE POWER STEERING PUMP ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE, WE'RE GONNA RELOCATE THE ALTERNATOR TO THE PASSENGER SIDE HEAD.

AND LIKE I SAID BEFORE, A COUPLE OF THE BOLTS HAVE TO COME OUT OF THE WATER PUMP FOR ONE OF THE ALTERNATOR BRACKETS. THIS IS THE BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE ALTERNATOR IN PLACE AND LET'S YOU ADJUST IT.

THE ALTERNATOR RELOCATION KIT WE'RE USING COMES WITH SPACERS TO ALIGN THE ALTERNATOR WITH THE REST OF THE PULLEYS.

THIS TURN BUCKLE ALSO SERVES AS A TENSIONER FOR YOUR SERPENTINE BELT.

NOW THAT WE HAVE THE FRONT ROTATING ASSEMBLY INSTALLED, WE NEED TO FIND A WAY TO COOL DOWN THE LS. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING DOT COM AND PICKED UP THIS PERFORMANCE ALUMINUM RADIATOR. NOW IT DIMENSIONALLY FITS AND HAS TWO TUBES THAT MEASURE AN INCH AND A QUARTER, AND THAT SHOULD BE MORE THAN ENOUGH TO COOL DOWN OUR LS. BEFORE WE GET STARTED WE HAD TO REINSTALL OUR CORE SUPPORT TO MEASURE FOR THAT PERFECT FIT.

WE HAD TO MOVE OUR RADIATOR FURTHER OUT TO GIVE US A LITTLE MORE CLEARANCE FOR OUR AIR INTAKE AND OUR FAN.

SO WE BENT UP A BRACKET THAT MOVED THE RADIATOR OUT ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH AND ALSO SERVED AS A MOUNTING POINT.

EVEN THOUGH WE'RE TACKING THIS INTO PLACE WHILE IT'S INSTALLED ON THE TRUCK, I LIKE TO PUT MARKS ON THE BRACKETS TO MAKE SURE THEY DON'T MOVE WHILE I'M PUTTING THE TACKS ON.

ALUMINUM HAS A SPECIAL COATING ON IT SO IT DOESN'T OXIDIZE. I'M GONNA BE USING A STAINLESS STEEL BRUSH TO GET RID OF THAT COATING. THAT WAY YOU GET A MUCH CLEANER WELD.

YOU CAN USE A MIG WELDER AND A SPOOL GUN TO WELD THESE BRACKETS ON. I CHOSE TO TIG WELD THEM BECAUSE WE WANTED TO CONTROL HOW MUCH HEAT WE PUT INTO THE TANKS OF THE RADIATOR.

FOR OUR BOLT HOLES WE'RE USING OUR TRIED AND TRUE METHOD OF USING A SMALL DRILL BIT AND THEN STEPPING UP TO THE CORRECT SIZE.

[ drill spinning ]

(JEREMY)>> IT'S A LOT EASIER TO FINISH WELDING OUR BRACKETS ON A BENCH. SO WE'RE GONNA PUT PIECES OF CARDBOARD ON THE FINS SO THEY DON'T GET ALL BENT OUT OF SHAPE.

WE'RE NOT GONNA WELD THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE BRACKET ON. WE'RE JUST GONNA ADD A COUPLE OF INCHES TO THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM, AND THAT SHOULD BE MORE THAN ENOUGH TO KEEP THIS IN PLACE.

THERE WERE TWO THINGS WE HAD TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN WE WERE INSTALLING OUR RADIATOR. ONE WAS THE AIR INTAKE. THE OTHER WAS THE COOLING FAN, AND NOW THAT WE KNOW THESE FIT ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS BUTTON EVERYTHING UP.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE'LL GET OUR SEATS INSTALLED, AND LATER WE'LL FIRE UP OUR LS TWO!

(ELIZA)>> THAT IS AWESOME!

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. SO WITH ALL THE COOL MODIFICATIONS THAT OUR SCOUT IS GETTING WE FIGURED THAT OUR INTERIOR WAS DUE FOR AN UPGRADE. SO WE HOPPED ONLINE TO SUMMIT RACING DOT COM. GOT OURSELVES SOME COOL SEATS BY PRO CAR SEATS, AND A FIVE POINT HARNESS FROM PRP. NOW THE ORIGINAL SEAT BRACKETS TO OUR SCOUT WERE TRASHED, AND TO REPLACE THEM WAS GONNA BE ABOUT $100 BUCKS A POP, BUT ON OUR WAY OUT TO THE DUMPSTER WE RAN INTO THE GUYS FROM TRUCK TECH THROWING OUT THEIR BLAZER'S INTERIOR. SO WE SNAGGED THEIR SEAT BRACKETS BECAUSE WE KNEW THAT WE COULD MAKE THEM WORK. IT WAS SUPER SIMPLE. ALL WE DID WAS REDRILL OUR BLAZER'S BRACKET TO MOUNT UP TO OUR PRO CAR SEAT SLIDER. AND THE COOL THING ABOUT SLIDERS IS ONE OF US IS TALL AND THE OTHER IS LESS TALL.

WE MEASURED FOR NEW MOUNTING POINTS SO WE COULD RECONFIGURE THE SEATS TO ACCOMODATE MY HEIGHT, JEREMY'S HEIGHT, AND KEEP US WITHIN THE SAFETY OF OUR NEW ROLL CAGE.

WHEN DRILLING YOUR NEW MOUNTING POINTS BE AWARE THAT THERE MAY BE STRUCTURALLY LAYERED PANELS UNDER THE FLOOR BOARD. SO BE SURE TO DOUBLE CHECK WHAT YOU'RE DRILLING INTO.

TO SPREAD OUT THE LOAD ON THE SEAT BRACKET AND FLOOR WE ARE USING LARGE WASHERS AND SECURING THEM WITH GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE. OUR FREE BRACKETS FROM TRUCK TECH WERE CERTAINLY THE RIGHT PRICE. THE DRIVER'S SIDE FIT PERFECTLY BUT NEEDED JUST A LITTLE BIT OF TWEAKING ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. SO NOW WITH OUR SEATS PUT IN WE CAN MEASURE FOR WHERE OUR FIVE POINT HARNESS IS GONNA ATTACH. NOW THIS BAR IS GONNA BE TOO TALL. WE NEED TO COME IN SOMEWHERE AROUND RIGHT HERE. SO WE NEED TO PUT A CROSS BAR INTO OUR ROLL CAGE. [ saw cutting metal ]

(ELIZA)>> NOTCHING THE TUBING MAKES THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A NICE, CLEAN, STRONG JOINT AND ONE THAT REQUIRES A LOT OF GAP WELDING.

[ welder crackling ]

(ELIZA)>> OKAY, WE'RE LEVEL!

MOUNTING POINTS FOR THE TOP OF OUR FIVE POINT HARNESS COME IN THE FORM OF CHASSIS TABS.

FOR NOW WE'RE JUST TACKING THESE INTO PLACE. SINCE THE ROLL CAGE IS GONNA COME BACK OUT LATER, THAT'S WHEN WE'LL BURN EVERYTHING IN. AND JUST LIKE OUR SEAT BRACKETS, THIS IS ALL GETTING SECURED WITH GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE.

LOOKS GOOD! OUR HARNESS' REMAINING THREE POINTS GET SECURED TO THE FLOOR PAN. OKAY, GO AHEAD.

I SEE IT. ALL RIGHT, GIVE ME A BIT.

THANK YOU!

OKAY, FIVE POINT HARNESS INSTALLED AND WE CAN GO ANYWHERE WE WANT, NOT JUST CAMPING.

(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW WE MADE OUR 37'S FIT, STAY TUNED!

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. NOW WE KNEW WE WERE GONNA RUN INTO SOME CLEARANCE ISSUES WHEN WE THREW THE TIRES UNDERNEATH THE SCOUT, ESPECIALLY IN THE REAR AND AS THE SUSPENSION FLEXED. SO WE WENT AHEAD AND CUT PART OF THE QUARTER AWAY, AND IT ALL STARTED WITH A GOOD OLE FASHION SHARPIE, CHECK THIS OUT. AND WITH THAT LINE DRAWN WE CAN GO AHEAD AND CUT THIS OUT TO CLEAR OUR 37'S. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> WE WANTED TO CUT THIS LINE AS PRECISE AS POSSIBLE. SO USING A CUTOFF WHEEL WITH A REALLY THIN BLADE GETS THE JOB DONE. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> YOU MAY FIND CUTTING THIS OFF PIECE BY PIECE IS THE EASIEST WAY TO GET TO ALL THE LAYERS THAT HAVE TO GO AWAY. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> CUTTING A PIECE AT A TIME IS A GOOD APPROACH. THAT WAY YOU ONLY REMOVE EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED TO. [ saw cutting metal ]

(JEREMY)>> NOW WE'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT LEFT TO DO. WE'VE GOT THE BIG SUPPORTS. ACTUALLY PART OF THE ROCKER HERE. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO CUT ALL OF THIS ROCKER AWAY, AND WHEN WE'RE DONE WE'LL JUST COME BACK IN AND ACTUALLY REBUILD THE LIP LIKE THEY HAVE HERE, AND MAKE IT LOOK A LITTLE FINISHED. GRANTED IT'LL BE COVERED UP WITH FENDER FLARES, BUT WE ALWAYS WANT TO MAKE IT LOOK AS GOOD AS POSSIBLE. AS YOU CAN SEE, WE CHOSE TO ONLY CUT IN AS DEEP AS THE INNER WHEEL WELL. THAT WAY IT SAVES US FROM A BUNCH OF PATCHWORK AND KEEPS ALL THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY IN THE WHEEL OPENING.

IT'S PRETTY AMAZING WHAT YOU'LL FIND IN THESE OLD TRUCKS. THE MUD HERE WAS ABOUT A HALF AN INCH THICK, AND WE HAD TO GET RID OF THAT SO WE COULD WELD.

DUST! OUR PATCH PANEL IS MADE OF 16 GAUGE SHEET METAL, AND WE'RE GONNA USE A STITCH WELD APPROACH. THAT WAY WE CAN CONTROL HOW MUCH HEAT GOES INTO THE PANEL, AND THERE'S A TON OF STITCH WELDS. FOR THIN METAL LIKE THIS I'VE SET OUR LINCOLN POWER MIG 256'S SETTINGS DOWN TO ABOUT 16 VOLTS AND THE WIRE SPEED TO ABOUT 190. THAT'S PRETTY LIGHT WORK FOR THIS WELDER CONSIDERING IT'S THE SAME LINCOLN WELDER THAT WE DO OUR HEAVY CHASSIS WORK WITH.

(JEREMY)>> WHEN GRINDING THESE WELDS STAY AT 90 DEGREES TO THE WELDS, BOTH INSIDE AND OUT. THAT WAY YOU RETAIN THE WELD'S STRENGTH AND MAKE A NICE, CLEAN CORNER. WITH THAT ALL DONE WE'LL PUT OUR 37'S BACK UNDERNEATH HERE AND MAKE SURE WE'VE GOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE SO WE DON'T HIT THE QUARTER.

(PAT)>> THIS IS MY FAVORITE PART.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK THE SCOUT ROARS, STICK AROUND!

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. IT IS FINALLY TIME TO START UP OUR SCOUT. WE'VE GOT PAT FROM ENGINE POWER. HE BUILT THIS ENGINE. SO TELL WHAT WE'VE GOT STUFFED UNDER THE HOOD.

(PAT)>> THIS WAS A MELLO AND MILD FIVETHREE THAT WE DID DOWN IN OUR SHOP. IT'S GOT A 215cc TRICK FLOW HEAD ON IT. IT'S A FIVE POINT THREE, IT'S GOT A MILD CAM. IT ACTUALLY CAME DOWN HERE WITH A DUAL PLANE AND A FOUR BARREL ON IT.

(ELIZA)>> THAT IS TRUE. WE CHANGED THAT UP JUST A LITTLE BIT. WE'VE GOT THE ATOMIC AIR FORCE INTAKE AS WELL AS THE MSD LS EFI SYSTEM. SO WE'VE GOT TO GET IT PROGRAMMED, SEE HOW IT RUNS.

(PAT)>> I CAN'T WAIT.

(JEREMY)>> BEFORE WE FIRE IT UP WE'LL JUST DO SOME QUICK TUNING.

(PAT)>> IT'S GONNA BE SUPER EASY. THIS IS A VERY INTUITIVE SYSTEM. YOU'VE GONNA LOVE IT.

(JEREMY)>> SHOULD BE PRETTY SIMPLE. WE'LL START HERE, WE'LL GO INTO INITIAL SETUP. THEN WE'LL GO ON TO ENGINE TYPE AND WE HAVE AN LM SEVEN. IS THAT CORRECT?

(PAT)>> CORRECT.

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S ALREADY IN THERE, AND THEN WE'LL GO DOWN TO ENGINE SIZE, AND THIS IS A FIVETHREE CORRECT?

(PAT)>> CORRECT, 325 INCH FIVE POINT THREE LITER.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WE GOT THAT SET. LET'S GO DOWN TO CAM SHAFT. NOW WHAT CAM SHAFT IS IN HERE?

(PAT)>> NOW THIS WOULD BE CONSIDERED PROBABLY MILD FOR THIS BECAUSE IT'S UNDER 240 DEGREES AT 50 OF DURATION. SO I WOULD GO WITH MILD.

(PAT)>> MILD IS RIGHT IN THE RIGHT AREA, VERY GOOD.

(JEREMY)>> SO WE'LL STICK WITH THAT, AND COILS, I HAVE A PART NUMBER FOR OUR COILS AND THAT ENDS IN 285. SO WE'LL FIND 285. SO THERE'S 285, EASY, AND INJECTORS. NOW WE STEPPED UP TO A BIGGER INJECTOR.

(PAT)>> GOOD.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WE HAVE TO GO IN AND SET THE CALIBRATION FOR THE INJECTORS AT POUNDS PER HOUR. SO MIKE HAD TOLD US TO GO WITH A 38 POUND PER HOUR INJECTOR. SO WE'LL GO WITH THE 38 POUND PER HOUR INJECTOR. WE'LL BACK OUT OF THAT ONE AND MAP SENSOR WE HAVE A PART NUMBER FOR, AND THAT ENDS IN 9931.

(PAT)>> OKAY, YEP, THERE'S A WHOLE BUNCH OF THEM.

(JEREMY)>> THERE'S A WHOLE LOT OF THEM. SO THERE'S 35 AND THERE'S 31, AND ONE OF THE LAST THINGS WE'RE GONNA DO IS FUEL PUMP TYPE. NOW THIS IS A NONPULSE WIDTH MODULATED FUEL PUMP WITH THE REGULATOR.

(PAT)>> OKAY, DOESN'T GET ANY MORE CLEARER THAN THAT THEN.

(JEREMY)>> SO WE'RE GONNA LEAVE IT RIGHT AT THAT AND ACTUALLY BACK OUT OF HERE AND SEE SOMETHING. OKAY SO THERE'S A WHOLE READOUT. SO WHEN WE FIRE THIS UP, HOPEFULLY IT'LL GIVE US REAL TIME DATA.

(PAT)>> THAT'S WHAT IT'S DESIGNED TO DO.

(JEREMY)>> SO WE'LL PRIME THE FUEL SYSTEM HERE A COUPLE OF TIMES AND MAKE SURE ALL THAT FUEL'S UP IN THE ENGINE.

(PAT)>> THIS IS MY FAVORITE PART. YOU KNOW THAT DON'T YOU?

(JEREMY)>> HOPEFULLY EVERYTHING'S CONNECTED. HERE WE GO! [ engine starts ]

(ELIZA)>> OH MY GOD, YES!

(PAT)>> INSTANT FIRE UP. IT'S GONNA RUN, IT IS GONNA HAVE TO FIND SOME PARAMETERS. SEE HOW IDLE'S GOING DOWN AND COMING UP A LITTLE BIT? IT'S JUST GONNA HAVE TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF SEARCHING.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH, YOU CAN HEAR THAT, AND IT'S JUST TRYING TO FIND EVERYTHING. IT'S ALL GOT TO WORK TOGETHER.

(PAT)>> IT DOES BUT I LIKE CAUSE YOU CAN HEAR IT'S GOT A NICE CAM IN IT, AND THIS THING'S GONNA CRAWL OVER ANYTHING YOU WANT TO TO GET. IT'S GONNA GO DOWN THE HIGHWAY NICE. IT'S GONNA GO OVER THE TRAILS NICE. IT'S GONNA BE A VERY, VERY WELL BALANCED OPERATION FOR YOU.

(JEREMY)>> THIS IS A VERSATILE TRUCK. SO WE'VE GOT MORE OF A VERSATILE ENGINE.

(PAT)>> THE ENGINE IS VERY VERSATILE. SO MAN, IT'S GONNA BE AWESOME! SEE HOW IT'S STARTING TO CLEAN UP ALREADY?

(JEREMY)>> STARTING TO KIND OF FIND ITSELF.

(ELIZA)>> THAT IS AWESOME!

(JEREMY)>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ANYTHING ON TODAY'S SHOW GO TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM.

(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WE THOUGHT WE'D TAKE A COUPLE OF MINUTES TO SHOW YOU ONE WAY TO CALCULATE COST OF MATERIAL FOR WHEN YOUR PROJECT REQUIRES A LITTLE BIT OF TUBE BENDING, JUST AS ROCK SLIDERS, ROLL CAGE, OR SHOCK HOOPS. NOW TO ACCURATELY CALCULATE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU NEED YOU NEED TO KNOW HOW MANY INCHES OF TUBE IT TAKES FOR EACH DEGREE OF BEND. NOW THIS VARIES BY THE BENDER YOU'RE USING, THE DYE IN YOUR BENDER, AS WELL AS THE TUBING, AND HERE'S ONE WAY TO DETERMINE HOW. THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS MOUNT THE TUBE IN THE BENDER WITH THE CORRECT SIZE DYE AND SET YOUR PRELOAD. THEN MARK A REFERENCE LINE AT THE FOLLOWER ON THE TUBE.

STARTING AT YOUR REFERENCE MARK, SIMPLY DRAW A LINE EVERY ONE INCH DOWN THE TUBE FOR AT LEAST A FOOT. BE SURE AND MARK WHICH END IS YOUR STARTING POINT.

REMOUNT THE TUBE, MAKING SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR REFERENCE MARK BACK UP TO THE FOLLOWER. SET YOUR PRELOAD AND ZERO OUT YOUR DEGREE BEND INDICATOR ON THE BENDER.

START BENDING THE TUBE, STOPPING EVERY 10 DEGREES OF BEND TO MAKE A NEW MARK ON THE FOLLOWER.

I'M USING A DIFFERENT COLOR PINK PEN TO NOT GET MY MARKS CONFUSED WITH THE INCH MARKS I MADE IN BLACK.

NOW ON THIS SIDE I'VE MARKED OFF EVERY 10 DEGREES OF BEND MADE, AND ON THIS SIDE IS THE CORRESPONDING NUMBER OF INCHES THAT YOU NEED FOR EACH DEGREE BEND. SO FOR OUR BENDER, THAT DYE, AND THIS DIAMETER TUBING WE NEEDED A LITTLE UNDER NINE INCHES FOR THIS 90 DEGREE BEND. NOW I DID MY MEASUREMENTS ON A 90 DEGREE BEND BUT YOU CAN USE THE SAME PRINCIPLE FOR 180 DEGREE BEND OR A 45 BEND. NOW THAT YOU KNOW HOW MANY INCHES IT TAKES FOR EACH BEND YOU NEED TO MAKE YOU CAN ACCURATELY CALCULATE HOW MUCH STRAIGHT STOCK YOU NEED FOR YOUR PROJECT.