More Overland Scout Episodes
XOR - Xtreme Off-Road Builds
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Edwards Ironworkers
10 Ton Bender
Lincoln Electric
Lincoln Electric is the official welding supplier to XOR
Matco Tools
Matco Tools are the official tool supplier of XOR
Sawblade.com
Trajan Q700: 7" Carbide Steel Cutting Chop Saw
The Industrial Depot
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Video Transcript
(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ELIZA AND JEREMY ARE INSTALLING SHOCKS AND MAKING CUSTOM DOOR PANELS FOR THEIR OVERLAND SCOUT. THEN THEY'RE OFF TO GET THE ROLL CAGE, SLIDERS, AND BUMPERS BLASTED AND POWDER COATED. IT'S ALL RIGHT HERE ON XOR.
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. NOW ONE OF THE LAST COMPONENTS WE HAVE LEFT IN OUR CUSTOM SUSPENSION IS SHOCKS. SO WE WENT ON THE COMPUTER, TYPED IN SUMMIT RACING DOT COM, AND PICKED UP THESE REMOTE RESERVOIR OFF ROAD SHOCKS. BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED ON THE FRONT END WE NEEDED TO COME UP WITH SOME SHOCK HOOPS. SO WE WENT OVER TO OUR EDWARDS TUBE BENDER, GRABBED A PIECE OF ONE AND A HALF INCH TUBE, AND BENT IT JUST SHY OF 180 DEGREES. SO THE WAY WE'RE GONNA START AND FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT OUR SHOCKS IN AND WHERE IS WE MOUNTED THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS ON THE SHOCK. WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA SLIDE THOSE INTO PLACE ON THE AXLE ITSELF, KEEPING THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS PARALLEL WITH THE GROUND. WE'RE GONNA TAKE THE TOP OF THE SHOCK AND SWING IT ACROSS THE INNER FENDER WELL. THAT'S GONNA GIVE US A MARK ON WHERE WE HAVE TO CUT CAUSE WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GET RID OF ALL OF THIS TO PUT OUR SHOCK LOOP IN PLACE. ONCE ALL THAT'S DONE WE'LL KINDA JUST HOLD EVERYBODY UP HERE, MAKE A MARK ALL THE WAY AROUND IT, AND TRIM TO FIT. THE REASON WHY WE'RE RUNNING A SHOCK HOOP IS WE HAVE A LOT OF FLEX IN OUR SUSPENSION. SO WHEN WE STUFF OUR 37 INCH TALL TIRE UP INTO THE FENDER WE HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE TRAVEL OF THE SUSPENSION MEETS THE TRAVEL OF THE SHOCK. WE CUT THAT JUST A LITTLE BIT BIGGER THAN THE SHOCK LOOP ITSELF CAUSE I WANT TO MAKE SURE WE'VE GOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO GET IT ALL UP IN HERE. SO WHERE WE WANT TO MOUNT OUR SHOCK LOOP IS RIGHT ON THE CORNER OF THE CHASSIS. SO WE'RE GONNA COME IN AND NOTCH THE TUBE HERE AND HERE SO IT SITS FLAT ON TOP AND FLAT ON THE SIDE HERE. THEN WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE WE'RE GONNA COME AND ADD A KICKER THAT'S GONNA RUN FROM THE TOP TO THE BACK OF THE CHASSIS, AND THAT SHOULD BE PLENTY TO HOLD THAT ALL IN PLACE. SINCE THE CORNER OF OUR FRAME IS 90 DEGREES, YOU DON'T HAVE TO NOTCH THESE. YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH JUST MAKING STRAIGHT CUTS. SO WE'RE USING OUR SEVEN INCH CHOP SAW THAT WE GOT FROM SAW BLADE DOT COM. [ saw cutting metal ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR THE KICKER WE'LL CUT A PIECE TO ABOUT 11 INCHES. IT'S GONNA COME RIGHT TO THE TOP HERE. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> FOR THE KICKER, WHERE IT MEETS THE HOOP, THIS TIME WE HAD TO USE THE NOTCHER. SO IT FITS PERFECTLY. LOOKING UP FROM THE AXLE ITSELF TOWARDS THE HOOP, IT'S AS SIMPLE AS TACKING THE TOP SHOCK TABS IN PLACE BEFORE TACKING THE LOWER ONES TO THE AXLE. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> SO THE SHOCK WON'T INTERFERE WITH THE TIRE WHEN WE TURN, WE'RE MOUNTING IT STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> ALL TACKED IN PLACE. NOW MOVING TO THE BACK. WE'RE UTILIZING THE STOCK UPPER MOUNTS BY ENLARGING THEM TO FIT THE NEW SHOCK BUSHINGS.
UNLIKE THE FRONT, WE CAN GIVE THE SHOCKS OUT BACK A LITTLE BIT OF AN ANGLE WITH A SLIGHT MOD TO THE REAR AXLE. THE SHOCK'S GONNA GO SOMEWHERE IN HERE, BUT WE'VE GOT A BRAKE LINE TAB THAT'S IN THE WAY. SO I'LL GET RID OF THE BRAKE LINE TAB, CLEAN THIS ALL OFF, AND GET IT ALL SETUP, JUST TACK THEM ON. [ grinder spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> FOR BURNING THESE IN WE'RE GONNA CRANK UP THE VOLTAGE AND THE WIRE SPEED ON OUR LINCOLN WELDER.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND THE SHOCK BODY ITSELF, WE'RE SITTING AT ABOUT 74 DEGREES, AND THAT'S OFF OF 90 DEGREE, NOT ZERO. SO IF WE WERE TO USE THIS AT A ZERO WE'RE GONNA BE AT ABOUT 16 DEGREES ANGLE ON OUR SHOCK. [ grinder spinning ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WE'RE STILL THERE AT 16 DEGREES.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, ELIZA BUILDS SOME CUSTOM DOOR PANELS, AND LATER WE'RE GETTING OUR PARTS POWDER COATED.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. THESE 40 YEAR OLD PANELS HAVE SEEN BETTER DAYS. SO WE'RE SENDING THEM OFF TO RETIREMENT AND BUILDING SOME NEW ONES.
(JEREMY)>> OW!
(ELIZA)>> SORRY! NOW WE'VE CUT TWO 20 GAUGE STEEL SHEETS FOR OUR INNER DOOR PANEL, AND I'VE ALREADY CUT THE OUTER TEMPLATE OF OUR DOOR PANEL. WE'LL SNIP THESE AND THEN GO AHEAD AND MAKE THE TEMPLATE FOR THE INNER SIDE.
SINCE THIS IS RELATIVELY THIN SHEET METAL, I'M USING TIN SNIPS FOR A MORE CONTROLLED AND CLEANER CUT.
NOW THAT I'M DONE WITH THE CUTS ON THE OUTER DOOR PANEL I NEED TO MAKE A NEW TEMPLATE FOR THE INNER PORTION.
I'M USING PAPER INSTEAD OF CARDBOARD THIS TIME BECAUSE IT'S EASIER TO MANIPULATE TO GET THE TRUE OUTLINE OF THE DOORS RECESS FOR THE TRIM PANEL.
THEN IT'S AS SIMPLE AS TRANSFERRING THE TEMPLATE TO THE SHEET METAL.
OKAY, GET THIS LINED UP AND THEN WE'LL USE OUR SNIPS TO GET THE EXCESS OFF.
OKAY, SO I GOT A LITTLE CARRIED AWAY WHEN I SAID WE DIDN'T NEED THESE ANYMORE. WE STILL DO. GET THIS GUY CENTERED UP SO THAT WE CAN USE THIS AS A TEMPLATE FOR WHERE THE DOOR HANDLE COMES IN AS WELL AS FOR WHERE THE WINDOW CRANK GOES.
FOR WHERE THE DOOR HANDLE PASSES THROUGH THE NEW PANEL I'M ALSO GONNA MAKE A BEZEL FROM THE SAME METAL TO GIVE IT A MORE FINISHED LOOK. YOU CAN SEE THE FACTORY HAD USED EXTRA VINYL ON THE ORIGINAL PANEL TO CLEAN UP THE LOOK AROUND THE HANDLE.
HERE'S A TIP. A LONG BLOCK OF WOOD WRAPPED IN A SHOP TOWEL OR SOFT MATERIAL WILL DISTRIBUTE THE CLAMPING LOAD ACROSS YOUR PANEL. THAT WAY YOU DON'T DISTORT OR SCRATCH THE METAL. ANOTHER TIP, SO YOU DON'T DENT OR SCRATCH THE PANEL WHERE YOU'RE DRILLING, WRAP THE BOTTOM OF THE BIT WITH TAPE SO WHEN IT CUTS THROUGH IT WON'T BOTTOM OUT ON THE DRILL CHUCK.
[ drill spinning ]
[ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> A HOLE SAW IS USED FOR THE CRANK HANDLE AND IS ALSO GREAT FOR ROUNDING THE CORNERS FOR THE DOOR HANDLE PASS THROUGH. [ saw cutting metal ]
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL GET OUR CUSTOM DOOR PANELS INSTALLED, STAY TUNED!
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND OUR CUSTOM DOOR PANEL BUILD FOR OUR OVERLAND SCOUT. THIS PAPER TEMPLATE WILL KEEP ME FROM MARKING UP THE FRONT OF THE PANEL WHILE I'M DECIDED THE VISUAL LAYOUT OF WHERE EVERYTHING GOES. FIRST I'M USING A COMPASS TO CONSISTENTLY MARK A LINE WHERE I WANT MY BEAD ROLL TO GO. THE SECOND LINE DESIGNATES WHERE THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE PANEL ON THE DOOR WILL BE INSTALLED.
THE COMPASS ALSO MARKS OUT THE LOCATION OF WHERE I'M GOING TO MAKE A HOLE FOR A PERFORATED METAL ACCENT. ONCE I'M HAPPY WITH THE LAYOUT, THE PAPER THEN GETS TRANSFERRED TO THE BACK OF THE PANEL SO I CAN MARK IT UP FOR BEAD ROLLING AND DRILLING.
THE FIRST LINE IS MARKED FOR A HORIZONTAL BEAD ROLL ACROSS THE PANEL. THEN THE CENTER OF THE METAL ACCENTS ARE MARKED.
THEN, JUST LIKE ON THE PAPER WHEN IT WAS ON THE FRONT, I CAN MARK WITH MY COMPASS THE LINE FOR THE LOWER BEAD ROLL. THE COMPASS IS A GREAT TOOL FOR KEEPING A CONSISTENT DISTANCE FROM THE EDGE OF THE PANEL.
FOR BEAD ROLLING I'M USING A THREEEIGHTHS INCH TURNING ROLL DIE. OUR BEAD ROLLER IS A LITTLE LIKE A SEWING MACHINE IN THAT IT USES THE FOOT PEDAL TO CONTROL THE FEED AND SPEED AT WHICH THE METAL PASSES THROUGH THE DYE. THE RULER I CLAMPED TO THE TABLE ACTS AS A GUIDE TO HELP KEEP A STRAIGHT FEED.
I'M WORKING IN REVERSE WITH THE ROLLER. THE DYE I'M USING IS LEAVING AN INDENTION ON THE BACK OF THE PANEL, WHICH MEANS IT'S CREATING A RAISED LINE ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE PANEL.
FOR MY PERFORATED METAL ACCENTS I'M STARTING WITH A HOLE SAW BECAUSE I WILL USE A LARGE DIMPLE DYE TO FORM THE HOLE ALONG WITH ADDING STRENGTH TO THE ENTIRE PANEL.
THE BACK OF THESE ACCENTS ARE MADE BY STARTING WITH SQUARES OF PERFORATED SHEET METAL.
I'VE CUT OUT AND PAINTED A SQUARE OF THE LEFTOVER SHEET METAL BLACK, AND RIVETED THE PERFORATED METAL TO IT FOR CONTRAST. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> FOUR QUICK TACKS WILL HOLD IT ALL IN PLACE.
OKAY! NOW THAT IS WHAT WE STARTED WITH AND HERE IS WHAT WE'RE ALMOST FINISHED WITH. WE DON'T KNOW THE COLOR OF OUR SCOUT. SO THEREFORE WE DON'T KNOW THE COLOR OF OUR TRIM, BUT WE'RE KIND OF LIKING THE UNFINISHED LOOK. NOW ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS PUT IN A OUR DOOR PULL AND WE'RE FINISHED.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S OFF TO BLAST FROM THE PAST, STICK AROUND!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE HEADED TO ONE OF OUR FAVORITE PLACES, BLAST FROM THE PAST IN LEBANON, TENNESSEE, TO GET OUR OVERLAND SCOUT'S ROLL CAGE, ROCK SLIDERS, AND BUMPERS PREPPED AND POWDER COATED.
(ELIZA)>> HELPING US UNLOAD IS THE MAN HIMSELF, OWNER VANCE GREGORY. VANCE HAS RUN BLAST FROM THE PAST SINCE 2008, AND PRIDES HIMSELF WITH OFFERING SOME OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY POWDER COATING SERVICES AROUND.
(JEREMY)>> IT ALL STARTS WITH REMOVING THE MILL SCALE FROM OUR PARTS BY USING SAND UNDER VERY HIGH PRESSURE TO LITERALLY BLAST OFF THE HARDENED LAYER OF MIXED IRON OXIDES THAT IS LEFT OVER FROM THE RED HOT HEAT OF ROLLING THE STEEL.
(ELIZA)>> BLASTING FOR US TODAY IS BOBBY, AND SINCE THIS CAN CREATE A TON OF SUSPENDED MEDIA IN THE AIR BOBBY IS SUITING UP WITH A FRESH AIR SUPPLY AND PROTECTING HIS HANDS WITH GLOVES.
(JEREMY)>> THE MILL SCALE ON OUR PARTS ALMOST LOOKS LIKE A LAYER OF BLACK PAINT, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW EFFICIENTLY THIS PROCESS REMOVES THE SCALE, WHICH IF YOU HAVE EVER TRIED TO GRIND IT OFF YOURSELF YOU KNOW HOW HARD THAT CAN BE.
AND NOW YOU CAN SEE WHY BOBBY NEEDS HIS FRESH AIR SUPPLY.
AND NOW THAT BOBBY'S GOT EVERYTHING BLASTED AND ALL SET, IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP.
(ELIZA)>> AND THAT'S CHRIS ROLLING THIS INTO THE BOOTH AND SHOOT IT WITH S&S WRINKLE BLACK. THE RACK THAT OUR PARTS ARE SUSPENDED FROM ALSO GROUNDS THEM WITH A NEGATIVE CHARGE THAT WILL ATTRACT THE POSITIVELY CHARGED POWDER ONCE IT'S SPRAY FROM THE GUN. FIRST UP FOR CHRIS IS TO GET RID OF ANY EXTRA MEDIA THAT MAY BE STUCK ON THE PARTS.
(JEREMY)>> AND AGAIN, WE'VE CHOSEN S&S WRINKLE BLACK, AND THIS MACHINE NOT ONLY SPRAYS THE POWDER, IT GIVES IT ITS POSITIVE CHARGE.
ONE OF THE ADVANTAGES TO POWDER COATING IS THAT THE OPPOSITE CHARGES HELP PULL THE POWDER INTO EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY, AND IT'S WAY MORE DURABLE THAN PAINT.
(ELIZA)>> THE POWDER IS ACTUALLY A THERMAL PLASTIC, WHICH MEANS IT HAS TO BE CURED WITH HEAT TO ALLOW IT TO FLOW AND FORM A SKIN.
(JEREMY)>> IT VARIES DEPENDING ON THE THICKNESS OF THE METAL, BUT FOR OUR PARTS THEY'LL GET CURED FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AT 425 DEGREES.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS! NOW A LOT OF THE TIMES WE FIND OURSELVES WORKING ALONE, AND USING ONE HAND TO STEADY THE PIECE AND THE OTHER TO GET THE WORK DONE. WE CAN'T OFFER YOU EXTRA HANDS BUT WE CAN GO OVER ALL THE GADGETS THAT'LL HELP KEEP YOUR PIECE IN PLACE. FIRST UP ARE GOOD OLE FASHIONED LOCKING PLIERS. THESE COME IN A VARIETY OF SHAPES AND SIZES, AND ARE ADJUSTABLE TO FIT A WIDE RANGE OF MATERIAL, AND CAN BE LOCKED IN PLACE ONCE EVERYTHING'S WHERE YOU WANT IT, AND A SIMPLE RELEASE LEVER RELEASES YOUR WORK PIECE. NEXT UP ARE MAGNETS, AND YOU'VE SEEN US USE THESE ALL THE TIME.
THESE PROVIDE 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, 120, AND 135 DEGREE ANGLES, AND THEY DON'T ATTACH TO YOUR WORK PIECE UNTIL YOU ENGAGE THEM. THESE PIVOT ANGLE MAGNETS OFFER ANYWHERE BETWEEN ZERO AND 270 DEGREE PLACEMENT, AND ARE VERY STRONG. THEY EASILY HELD UP 30 POUND ROCK SLIDERS WHILE I WAS MEASURING FOR SUPPORTS.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> NOW IF YOU'RE WORKING ON A WELDING JIG TABLE YOU'VE GOT A LOT OF THE SAME BASIC TOOLS. YOU'VE GOT YOUR DROP IN LOCKING PLIERS. YOU HAVE YOUR RATCHETING ACTION CLAMP, AND YOU HAVE YOUR BASIC CCLAMP. WE ALSO HAVE BALL LOCK BOLTS AND RIGHT ANGLE BRACKETS. IN ADDITION TO THAT YOU ALSO HAVE ELEVATING BRACKETS AND DROP IN ADAPTERS THAT FITS TUBE STOCK OR SQUARE STOCK. WHAT MAKES THIS WELDING JIG TABLE WORK IS A GRID WORK OF EVENLY SPACED HOLES. EACH TOOL HAS A DROP IN STUD THAT ATTACHES IT TO THE TABLE SO THAT YOUR WORK WON'T MOVE AROUND.
IF YOU'RE RIVETING OR PUTTING BODY PANELS TOGETHER, THE GADGET YOU WANT ARE CLECOS. THESE ACT LIKE TEMPORARY RIVETS. YOU INSERT THEM INTO YOUR WORK PIECES WITH YOUR CLECO PLIERS, AND ONCE YOU'VE RIVETED OR SPOT WELDED YOUR PIECES TOGETHER YOU USE THE CLECO PLIERS TO REMOVE THE CLECO. NOW DON'T LET THE SIZE OF THESE LITTLE GUYS FOOL YOU. THEY ARE PRETTY STRONG. THEY CAN HOLD ANYWHERE BETWEEN FIVE AND 30 POUNDS EACH. SO THEY MAKE THESE GUYS PERFECT FOR HELPING HANG OUR DOOR PANELS. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, YOU'VE GOT YOUR SELF TAPPING SCREW. THESE GUYS ARE YOUR MOST ECONOMICAL OPTION, MAKING SECURING BODY PANELS AND FLOOR PANS IN PLACE WHILE YOU GET YOUR WELDS IN. NOW WHILE WE COULDN'T GIVE YOU AN EXTRA SET OF HANDS, THESE OPTIONS ARE GUARANTEED TO FREE YOURS UP. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW VISIT US AT POWERNATION TV DOT COM AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
Show Full Transcript
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO XOR. NOW ONE OF THE LAST COMPONENTS WE HAVE LEFT IN OUR CUSTOM SUSPENSION IS SHOCKS. SO WE WENT ON THE COMPUTER, TYPED IN SUMMIT RACING DOT COM, AND PICKED UP THESE REMOTE RESERVOIR OFF ROAD SHOCKS. BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED ON THE FRONT END WE NEEDED TO COME UP WITH SOME SHOCK HOOPS. SO WE WENT OVER TO OUR EDWARDS TUBE BENDER, GRABBED A PIECE OF ONE AND A HALF INCH TUBE, AND BENT IT JUST SHY OF 180 DEGREES. SO THE WAY WE'RE GONNA START AND FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT OUR SHOCKS IN AND WHERE IS WE MOUNTED THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS ON THE SHOCK. WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA SLIDE THOSE INTO PLACE ON THE AXLE ITSELF, KEEPING THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS PARALLEL WITH THE GROUND. WE'RE GONNA TAKE THE TOP OF THE SHOCK AND SWING IT ACROSS THE INNER FENDER WELL. THAT'S GONNA GIVE US A MARK ON WHERE WE HAVE TO CUT CAUSE WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GET RID OF ALL OF THIS TO PUT OUR SHOCK LOOP IN PLACE. ONCE ALL THAT'S DONE WE'LL KINDA JUST HOLD EVERYBODY UP HERE, MAKE A MARK ALL THE WAY AROUND IT, AND TRIM TO FIT. THE REASON WHY WE'RE RUNNING A SHOCK HOOP IS WE HAVE A LOT OF FLEX IN OUR SUSPENSION. SO WHEN WE STUFF OUR 37 INCH TALL TIRE UP INTO THE FENDER WE HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE TRAVEL OF THE SUSPENSION MEETS THE TRAVEL OF THE SHOCK. WE CUT THAT JUST A LITTLE BIT BIGGER THAN THE SHOCK LOOP ITSELF CAUSE I WANT TO MAKE SURE WE'VE GOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO GET IT ALL UP IN HERE. SO WHERE WE WANT TO MOUNT OUR SHOCK LOOP IS RIGHT ON THE CORNER OF THE CHASSIS. SO WE'RE GONNA COME IN AND NOTCH THE TUBE HERE AND HERE SO IT SITS FLAT ON TOP AND FLAT ON THE SIDE HERE. THEN WHEN WE'RE ALL DONE WE'RE GONNA COME AND ADD A KICKER THAT'S GONNA RUN FROM THE TOP TO THE BACK OF THE CHASSIS, AND THAT SHOULD BE PLENTY TO HOLD THAT ALL IN PLACE. SINCE THE CORNER OF OUR FRAME IS 90 DEGREES, YOU DON'T HAVE TO NOTCH THESE. YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH JUST MAKING STRAIGHT CUTS. SO WE'RE USING OUR SEVEN INCH CHOP SAW THAT WE GOT FROM SAW BLADE DOT COM. [ saw cutting metal ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR THE KICKER WE'LL CUT A PIECE TO ABOUT 11 INCHES. IT'S GONNA COME RIGHT TO THE TOP HERE. [ saw cutting metal ]
(JEREMY)>> FOR THE KICKER, WHERE IT MEETS THE HOOP, THIS TIME WE HAD TO USE THE NOTCHER. SO IT FITS PERFECTLY. LOOKING UP FROM THE AXLE ITSELF TOWARDS THE HOOP, IT'S AS SIMPLE AS TACKING THE TOP SHOCK TABS IN PLACE BEFORE TACKING THE LOWER ONES TO THE AXLE. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> SO THE SHOCK WON'T INTERFERE WITH THE TIRE WHEN WE TURN, WE'RE MOUNTING IT STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. [ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> ALL TACKED IN PLACE. NOW MOVING TO THE BACK. WE'RE UTILIZING THE STOCK UPPER MOUNTS BY ENLARGING THEM TO FIT THE NEW SHOCK BUSHINGS.
UNLIKE THE FRONT, WE CAN GIVE THE SHOCKS OUT BACK A LITTLE BIT OF AN ANGLE WITH A SLIGHT MOD TO THE REAR AXLE. THE SHOCK'S GONNA GO SOMEWHERE IN HERE, BUT WE'VE GOT A BRAKE LINE TAB THAT'S IN THE WAY. SO I'LL GET RID OF THE BRAKE LINE TAB, CLEAN THIS ALL OFF, AND GET IT ALL SETUP, JUST TACK THEM ON. [ grinder spinning ]
(JEREMY)>> FOR BURNING THESE IN WE'RE GONNA CRANK UP THE VOLTAGE AND THE WIRE SPEED ON OUR LINCOLN WELDER.
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND THE SHOCK BODY ITSELF, WE'RE SITTING AT ABOUT 74 DEGREES, AND THAT'S OFF OF 90 DEGREE, NOT ZERO. SO IF WE WERE TO USE THIS AT A ZERO WE'RE GONNA BE AT ABOUT 16 DEGREES ANGLE ON OUR SHOCK. [ grinder spinning ]
[ welder crackling ]
(JEREMY)>> AND WE'RE STILL THERE AT 16 DEGREES.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, ELIZA BUILDS SOME CUSTOM DOOR PANELS, AND LATER WE'RE GETTING OUR PARTS POWDER COATED.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. THESE 40 YEAR OLD PANELS HAVE SEEN BETTER DAYS. SO WE'RE SENDING THEM OFF TO RETIREMENT AND BUILDING SOME NEW ONES.
(JEREMY)>> OW!
(ELIZA)>> SORRY! NOW WE'VE CUT TWO 20 GAUGE STEEL SHEETS FOR OUR INNER DOOR PANEL, AND I'VE ALREADY CUT THE OUTER TEMPLATE OF OUR DOOR PANEL. WE'LL SNIP THESE AND THEN GO AHEAD AND MAKE THE TEMPLATE FOR THE INNER SIDE.
SINCE THIS IS RELATIVELY THIN SHEET METAL, I'M USING TIN SNIPS FOR A MORE CONTROLLED AND CLEANER CUT.
NOW THAT I'M DONE WITH THE CUTS ON THE OUTER DOOR PANEL I NEED TO MAKE A NEW TEMPLATE FOR THE INNER PORTION.
I'M USING PAPER INSTEAD OF CARDBOARD THIS TIME BECAUSE IT'S EASIER TO MANIPULATE TO GET THE TRUE OUTLINE OF THE DOORS RECESS FOR THE TRIM PANEL.
THEN IT'S AS SIMPLE AS TRANSFERRING THE TEMPLATE TO THE SHEET METAL.
OKAY, GET THIS LINED UP AND THEN WE'LL USE OUR SNIPS TO GET THE EXCESS OFF.
OKAY, SO I GOT A LITTLE CARRIED AWAY WHEN I SAID WE DIDN'T NEED THESE ANYMORE. WE STILL DO. GET THIS GUY CENTERED UP SO THAT WE CAN USE THIS AS A TEMPLATE FOR WHERE THE DOOR HANDLE COMES IN AS WELL AS FOR WHERE THE WINDOW CRANK GOES.
FOR WHERE THE DOOR HANDLE PASSES THROUGH THE NEW PANEL I'M ALSO GONNA MAKE A BEZEL FROM THE SAME METAL TO GIVE IT A MORE FINISHED LOOK. YOU CAN SEE THE FACTORY HAD USED EXTRA VINYL ON THE ORIGINAL PANEL TO CLEAN UP THE LOOK AROUND THE HANDLE.
HERE'S A TIP. A LONG BLOCK OF WOOD WRAPPED IN A SHOP TOWEL OR SOFT MATERIAL WILL DISTRIBUTE THE CLAMPING LOAD ACROSS YOUR PANEL. THAT WAY YOU DON'T DISTORT OR SCRATCH THE METAL. ANOTHER TIP, SO YOU DON'T DENT OR SCRATCH THE PANEL WHERE YOU'RE DRILLING, WRAP THE BOTTOM OF THE BIT WITH TAPE SO WHEN IT CUTS THROUGH IT WON'T BOTTOM OUT ON THE DRILL CHUCK.
[ drill spinning ]
[ drill spinning ]
(ELIZA)>> A HOLE SAW IS USED FOR THE CRANK HANDLE AND IS ALSO GREAT FOR ROUNDING THE CORNERS FOR THE DOOR HANDLE PASS THROUGH. [ saw cutting metal ]
(NARRATOR)>> WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL GET OUR CUSTOM DOOR PANELS INSTALLED, STAY TUNED!
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR AND OUR CUSTOM DOOR PANEL BUILD FOR OUR OVERLAND SCOUT. THIS PAPER TEMPLATE WILL KEEP ME FROM MARKING UP THE FRONT OF THE PANEL WHILE I'M DECIDED THE VISUAL LAYOUT OF WHERE EVERYTHING GOES. FIRST I'M USING A COMPASS TO CONSISTENTLY MARK A LINE WHERE I WANT MY BEAD ROLL TO GO. THE SECOND LINE DESIGNATES WHERE THE SCREWS THAT HOLD THE PANEL ON THE DOOR WILL BE INSTALLED.
THE COMPASS ALSO MARKS OUT THE LOCATION OF WHERE I'M GOING TO MAKE A HOLE FOR A PERFORATED METAL ACCENT. ONCE I'M HAPPY WITH THE LAYOUT, THE PAPER THEN GETS TRANSFERRED TO THE BACK OF THE PANEL SO I CAN MARK IT UP FOR BEAD ROLLING AND DRILLING.
THE FIRST LINE IS MARKED FOR A HORIZONTAL BEAD ROLL ACROSS THE PANEL. THEN THE CENTER OF THE METAL ACCENTS ARE MARKED.
THEN, JUST LIKE ON THE PAPER WHEN IT WAS ON THE FRONT, I CAN MARK WITH MY COMPASS THE LINE FOR THE LOWER BEAD ROLL. THE COMPASS IS A GREAT TOOL FOR KEEPING A CONSISTENT DISTANCE FROM THE EDGE OF THE PANEL.
FOR BEAD ROLLING I'M USING A THREEEIGHTHS INCH TURNING ROLL DIE. OUR BEAD ROLLER IS A LITTLE LIKE A SEWING MACHINE IN THAT IT USES THE FOOT PEDAL TO CONTROL THE FEED AND SPEED AT WHICH THE METAL PASSES THROUGH THE DYE. THE RULER I CLAMPED TO THE TABLE ACTS AS A GUIDE TO HELP KEEP A STRAIGHT FEED.
I'M WORKING IN REVERSE WITH THE ROLLER. THE DYE I'M USING IS LEAVING AN INDENTION ON THE BACK OF THE PANEL, WHICH MEANS IT'S CREATING A RAISED LINE ON THE FRONT SIDE OF THE PANEL.
FOR MY PERFORATED METAL ACCENTS I'M STARTING WITH A HOLE SAW BECAUSE I WILL USE A LARGE DIMPLE DYE TO FORM THE HOLE ALONG WITH ADDING STRENGTH TO THE ENTIRE PANEL.
THE BACK OF THESE ACCENTS ARE MADE BY STARTING WITH SQUARES OF PERFORATED SHEET METAL.
I'VE CUT OUT AND PAINTED A SQUARE OF THE LEFTOVER SHEET METAL BLACK, AND RIVETED THE PERFORATED METAL TO IT FOR CONTRAST. [ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> FOUR QUICK TACKS WILL HOLD IT ALL IN PLACE.
OKAY! NOW THAT IS WHAT WE STARTED WITH AND HERE IS WHAT WE'RE ALMOST FINISHED WITH. WE DON'T KNOW THE COLOR OF OUR SCOUT. SO THEREFORE WE DON'T KNOW THE COLOR OF OUR TRIM, BUT WE'RE KIND OF LIKING THE UNFINISHED LOOK. NOW ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS PUT IN A OUR DOOR PULL AND WE'RE FINISHED.
(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S OFF TO BLAST FROM THE PAST, STICK AROUND!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO XOR. TODAY WE'RE HEADED TO ONE OF OUR FAVORITE PLACES, BLAST FROM THE PAST IN LEBANON, TENNESSEE, TO GET OUR OVERLAND SCOUT'S ROLL CAGE, ROCK SLIDERS, AND BUMPERS PREPPED AND POWDER COATED.
(ELIZA)>> HELPING US UNLOAD IS THE MAN HIMSELF, OWNER VANCE GREGORY. VANCE HAS RUN BLAST FROM THE PAST SINCE 2008, AND PRIDES HIMSELF WITH OFFERING SOME OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY POWDER COATING SERVICES AROUND.
(JEREMY)>> IT ALL STARTS WITH REMOVING THE MILL SCALE FROM OUR PARTS BY USING SAND UNDER VERY HIGH PRESSURE TO LITERALLY BLAST OFF THE HARDENED LAYER OF MIXED IRON OXIDES THAT IS LEFT OVER FROM THE RED HOT HEAT OF ROLLING THE STEEL.
(ELIZA)>> BLASTING FOR US TODAY IS BOBBY, AND SINCE THIS CAN CREATE A TON OF SUSPENDED MEDIA IN THE AIR BOBBY IS SUITING UP WITH A FRESH AIR SUPPLY AND PROTECTING HIS HANDS WITH GLOVES.
(JEREMY)>> THE MILL SCALE ON OUR PARTS ALMOST LOOKS LIKE A LAYER OF BLACK PAINT, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW EFFICIENTLY THIS PROCESS REMOVES THE SCALE, WHICH IF YOU HAVE EVER TRIED TO GRIND IT OFF YOURSELF YOU KNOW HOW HARD THAT CAN BE.
AND NOW YOU CAN SEE WHY BOBBY NEEDS HIS FRESH AIR SUPPLY.
AND NOW THAT BOBBY'S GOT EVERYTHING BLASTED AND ALL SET, IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP.
(ELIZA)>> AND THAT'S CHRIS ROLLING THIS INTO THE BOOTH AND SHOOT IT WITH S&S WRINKLE BLACK. THE RACK THAT OUR PARTS ARE SUSPENDED FROM ALSO GROUNDS THEM WITH A NEGATIVE CHARGE THAT WILL ATTRACT THE POSITIVELY CHARGED POWDER ONCE IT'S SPRAY FROM THE GUN. FIRST UP FOR CHRIS IS TO GET RID OF ANY EXTRA MEDIA THAT MAY BE STUCK ON THE PARTS.
(JEREMY)>> AND AGAIN, WE'VE CHOSEN S&S WRINKLE BLACK, AND THIS MACHINE NOT ONLY SPRAYS THE POWDER, IT GIVES IT ITS POSITIVE CHARGE.
ONE OF THE ADVANTAGES TO POWDER COATING IS THAT THE OPPOSITE CHARGES HELP PULL THE POWDER INTO EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY, AND IT'S WAY MORE DURABLE THAN PAINT.
(ELIZA)>> THE POWDER IS ACTUALLY A THERMAL PLASTIC, WHICH MEANS IT HAS TO BE CURED WITH HEAT TO ALLOW IT TO FLOW AND FORM A SKIN.
(JEREMY)>> IT VARIES DEPENDING ON THE THICKNESS OF THE METAL, BUT FOR OUR PARTS THEY'LL GET CURED FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES AT 425 DEGREES.
(ELIZA)>> HEY GUYS! NOW A LOT OF THE TIMES WE FIND OURSELVES WORKING ALONE, AND USING ONE HAND TO STEADY THE PIECE AND THE OTHER TO GET THE WORK DONE. WE CAN'T OFFER YOU EXTRA HANDS BUT WE CAN GO OVER ALL THE GADGETS THAT'LL HELP KEEP YOUR PIECE IN PLACE. FIRST UP ARE GOOD OLE FASHIONED LOCKING PLIERS. THESE COME IN A VARIETY OF SHAPES AND SIZES, AND ARE ADJUSTABLE TO FIT A WIDE RANGE OF MATERIAL, AND CAN BE LOCKED IN PLACE ONCE EVERYTHING'S WHERE YOU WANT IT, AND A SIMPLE RELEASE LEVER RELEASES YOUR WORK PIECE. NEXT UP ARE MAGNETS, AND YOU'VE SEEN US USE THESE ALL THE TIME.
THESE PROVIDE 45, 60, 75, 90, 105, 120, AND 135 DEGREE ANGLES, AND THEY DON'T ATTACH TO YOUR WORK PIECE UNTIL YOU ENGAGE THEM. THESE PIVOT ANGLE MAGNETS OFFER ANYWHERE BETWEEN ZERO AND 270 DEGREE PLACEMENT, AND ARE VERY STRONG. THEY EASILY HELD UP 30 POUND ROCK SLIDERS WHILE I WAS MEASURING FOR SUPPORTS.
[ welder crackling ]
(ELIZA)>> NOW IF YOU'RE WORKING ON A WELDING JIG TABLE YOU'VE GOT A LOT OF THE SAME BASIC TOOLS. YOU'VE GOT YOUR DROP IN LOCKING PLIERS. YOU HAVE YOUR RATCHETING ACTION CLAMP, AND YOU HAVE YOUR BASIC CCLAMP. WE ALSO HAVE BALL LOCK BOLTS AND RIGHT ANGLE BRACKETS. IN ADDITION TO THAT YOU ALSO HAVE ELEVATING BRACKETS AND DROP IN ADAPTERS THAT FITS TUBE STOCK OR SQUARE STOCK. WHAT MAKES THIS WELDING JIG TABLE WORK IS A GRID WORK OF EVENLY SPACED HOLES. EACH TOOL HAS A DROP IN STUD THAT ATTACHES IT TO THE TABLE SO THAT YOUR WORK WON'T MOVE AROUND.
IF YOU'RE RIVETING OR PUTTING BODY PANELS TOGETHER, THE GADGET YOU WANT ARE CLECOS. THESE ACT LIKE TEMPORARY RIVETS. YOU INSERT THEM INTO YOUR WORK PIECES WITH YOUR CLECO PLIERS, AND ONCE YOU'VE RIVETED OR SPOT WELDED YOUR PIECES TOGETHER YOU USE THE CLECO PLIERS TO REMOVE THE CLECO. NOW DON'T LET THE SIZE OF THESE LITTLE GUYS FOOL YOU. THEY ARE PRETTY STRONG. THEY CAN HOLD ANYWHERE BETWEEN FIVE AND 30 POUNDS EACH. SO THEY MAKE THESE GUYS PERFECT FOR HELPING HANG OUR DOOR PANELS. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, YOU'VE GOT YOUR SELF TAPPING SCREW. THESE GUYS ARE YOUR MOST ECONOMICAL OPTION, MAKING SECURING BODY PANELS AND FLOOR PANS IN PLACE WHILE YOU GET YOUR WELDS IN. NOW WHILE WE COULDN'T GIVE YOU AN EXTRA SET OF HANDS, THESE OPTIONS ARE GUARANTEED TO FREE YOURS UP. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT WHAT YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW VISIT US AT POWERNATION TV DOT COM AND WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.
