Full Size Blazer Part 2

(ANNOUNCER)>> OKAY, SO YOU'RE RIDING HIGH IN YOUR LIFTED STREET TRUCK. SURE, IT'LL GET YOU TO THE MALL, BUT IT WON'T GET YOU HERE. TODAY ON XTREME 4X4 WE'VE GOT ALL THE HARDCORE GOODIES TO MAKE YOUR DAILY DRIVER XTREME WORTHY IN STAGE TWO OF OUR BLAZER BUILD RIGHT NOW!

(IAN)>> NOW I DON'T NEED TO CONVINCE YOU GUYS THAT HARDCORE OFF ROAD RIGS ARE COOL. THEY'RE A BLAST TO BUILD AND YOU CAN DRIVE THEM ALMOST ANYWHERE. EVEN DUAL PURPOSE RIGS LIKE OUR TJ THAT SPEND A LITTLE BIT OF TIME ON THE STREET. BUT FOR EVERY ONE OF THOSE RIGS YOU SEE ON THE STREET, YOU SEE ONE OF THESE, A LIFTED STREET TRUCK. SOMETHING THAT WAS BUILT JUST TO LOOK GOOD. IT SITS UP HIGH, OVERSIZED WHEELS AND TIRES, AND THEY COME IN ALL SHAPES AND SIZES. CLASSIC PICK UP TRUCKS TO MODERN DAY SUV'S, BUT WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU'VE GOT A LIFTED STREET TRUCK AND YOU WANT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF WHEELING. SURE YOU CAN CONQUER A FEW EASY TRAILS, BUT WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU WANT TO HIT SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT MORE HARDCORE? WELL FOR THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE SOME CHANGES, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY. WE'LL TAKE YOU STEP BY STEP THROUGH THE PROCESS OF CONVERTING A LIFTED STREET TRUCK INTO A HARDCORE WHEELER. FACTORY BUMPERS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO PROTECT YOUR TRUCK. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO LOOK GOOD AND CRUMPLE DURING LIGHT IMPACTS. THAT MEANS WHEN YOU'RE WHEELING, STOCK BUMPERS GET TRASHED RIGHT AWAY. RUSTY! SO THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS GONNA BE TO PROTECT THE BODY ON YOUR TRUCK, AND YOU'RE GONNA WANNA FOCUS ON THREE KEY AREAS, THE FRONT BUMPER, THE REAR BUMPER, AND AS WELL THE ROCKERS. NOW ON THE FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK ONE OF THE BEST OPTIONS IS TO GO AHEAD AND BUY A PREMADE BUMPER LIKE THIS ONE FROM FAB FORCE. IT'S MADE OUT OF THICK THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL MEANING THAT IT'S GOING TO BE INCREDIBLY STRONG. IT HAS PROVISIONS FOR BOTH TURN SIGNALS AND OFF ROAD LIGHTS AS WELL AS DRING SHACKLE MOUNTS ON THE FRONT, BUT THE BIG NEWS IS WHAT'S BEHIND THE BUMPER. IT COMES WITH A WINCH PLATE PREINSTALLED TO ACCEPT MOST POPULAR WINCH SIZES, AND IF YOU'RE GONNA TAKE YOUR STREET TRUCK WHEELING, YOU DEFINITELY WANT TO HAVE A WINCH. NOW THIS PARTICULAR BUMPER IS FOR A FORD F-250 PICK UP TRUCK, BUT WE'RE GONNA BE ABLE TO EASILY ADAPT THE BRACKETS THAT COME IN THE KIT TO FIT THE FRONT OF OUR TRUCK. WE DO NEED TO ADD A FRAME EXTENSION TO THE FRONT OF OUR BLAZER USING A PIECE OF RECTANGULAR STRUCTURAL TUBING. THEN WE'LL SET THE BUMPER IN PLACE AND TACK THE BRACKETS ON. PULL THE BUMPER OFF AND MARK THE LOCATION OF THE BOLT HOLES. ADD SOME TABS, TEST FIT EVERYTHING ONE MORE TIME, WELD IT ALL UP, PUT IT BACK ON FOR ONE FINAL CHECK BEFORE WE PULL IT OFF AND COAT IT WITH SOME BED LINER. NOW YOU CAN NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE SIZE OF A WINCH WHEN YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT A FULL SIZE RIG. SO WE'RE GONNA SLIP IN A WARN 16.5 TI WINCH. THAT'S 16,500 POUNDS OF PULLING POWER WHEN WE GET THIS RIG STUCK.

ON THE REAR OF OUR TRUCK, INSTEAD OF BUYING A BUMPER, WE'RE GONNA BUILD ONE FROM SCRATCH. WE'LL START WITH A PIECE OF INCH AND THREE QUARTERS DOM TUBING BENT TO WRAP AROUND THE ROCKERS. THEN ADD AN ANGLED PIECE TO HELP WITH GOOD DEPARTURE ANGLES. ADD A FLAT STEP OUT OF THREESIXTEENTHS INCH PLATE. TACK IT ALL TOGETHER WITH SOME UPPER SUPPORTS AND ADD SOME TABS TO MAKE IT REMOVABLE. THEN WELD IT, PAINT IT, AND BOLT IT IN PLACE. WITH A BUMPER ON THE FRONT AND THE BACK, THE NEXT AREA YOU NEED TO PROTECT ON A LIFTED STREET TRUCK BEFORE YOU TAKE IT OFF ROAD IS GONNA BE THE ROCKER PANELS. NOW THEY SEE A LOT OF ABUSE WHEN WHEELING BECAUSE EVERYTHING THAT YOU FALL OFF OF THE FRONT TIRE AFTER YOU DRIVE OVER IT ROLLS UP AND HITS RIGHT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR, AND THE BOTTOM OF THE ROCKER. NOW THERE'S TWO PROBLEMS WITH THAT. NUMBER ONE, BODY DAMAGE WRECKS THE TRUCK. NUMBER TWO IT CAN ACTUALLY GET WEDGED INTO THE SHEET METAL MAKING IT HARD TO CONTINUE DOWN THE TRAIL. SO A GOOD ROCK SLIDER WILL HELP YOU KEEP DRIVING THE TRUCK. NOW THIS IS NOT A ROCK SLIDER, THIS IS BASICALLY A STEP. IT HELPS TO GET IN AND OUT OF A LIFTED TRUCK. IT'S MADE OUT OF THIN WALL TUBING AND DOESN'T TRAVEL THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THE ROCKER. SO WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THIS WITH A TRUE ROCK SLIDER. NOW SINCE WE HAVE A VERY ANGULAR BUMPER MADE OUT OF PLATE STEEL UP FRONT AND A TUBE BUMPER DESIGN IN THE BACK, WE'RE GONNA TIE THOSE TWO DESIGNS TOGETHER RIGHT HERE WITH A CUSTOM ROCK SLIDER. A PIECE OF TWO INCH BY THREE INCH THREESIXTEENTHS WALL RECTANGULAR TUBING WILL MATCH THE FRONT BUMPER AND BE THE BASE FOR OUR ROCK SLIDER. A PIECE OF ROLLED INCH AND THREE QUARTER .120 DOM WILL MATCH OUR REAR BUMPER AND ACT AS A STEP AS WELL AS A RUB RAIL.

MOST LIFTED STREET TRUCKS DO NOT HAVE ONE OF THESE, A FULL SIZE SPARE TIRE. BUT IF YOU'RE GONNA TAKE YOUR RIG INTO THE DIRT, YOU DEFINITELY WANT TO ADD ONE OF THESE TO YOUR SHOPPING LIST. IF YOU GET A FLAT TIRE IN THE MIDDLE OF A TRAIL, YOU DON'T WANT TO TRY TO LIMP YOUR TRUCK OFF ON JUST THE RIM. YOU'LL COMPLETELY RUIN IT. SO YOU DEFINITELY WANT TO GET THE FULL SIZE SPARE. NOW YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND GET A BUMPER TO MOUNT THE FULL SIZE SPARE ONTO IT, OR LIKE WE ARE IN THE BACK OF THE BLAZER, JUST THROW IT IN THE BACK OF THE TRUCK.

(ANNOUNCER)>> THE ROCKS WON'T STAND A CHANCE ONCE WE BEEF UP THE OLD UNDERCARRIAGE AND PROVIDE THE MISSING LINKS. NEXT, IAN STIFFENS UP THE REAR WITH STRONG SPRINGS, AND IN FRONT A CUSTOM LINK SETUP, STAY TUNED!

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE SHOWING YOU GUYS HOW TO TAKE A LIFTED STREET TRUCK AND BUILD IT INTO SOMETHING THAT CAN HANDLE A LITTLE BIT MORE SERIOUS OFF ROADING. NOW WE HAVE THE BODY PROTECTED WITH BUMPERS FRONT AND REAR, AND NOW WE CAN FOCUS ON THE SUSPENSION. NOW A LIFTED STREET TRUCK IS USUALLY PUT IN THE AIR JUST LIKE OUR BLAZER, A LIFT BLOCK BETWEEN THE AXLE AND THE SPRING. THE PROBLEM IS WHEN YOU'RE OUT HITTING HARDCORE TRAILS, THERE'S A LOT OF SIDE LOAD ON THAT AXLE, THE LIFT BLOCK CAN ACTUALLY PITCH OVER AND THE UBOLTS CAN BREAK. SO IT'S BEST TO RUN A SUSPENSION SYSTEM WITH NO LIFT BLOCKS AT ALL, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO ON THIS TRUCK. WE'LL COMPLETELY REPLACE THE REAR SUSPENSION WITH A KIT FROM OFF ROAD DESIGNS. IT'S CALLED A SHACKLE FLIP KIT. IT COMES WITH NEW BRACKETS, ALL NEW BUSHINGS AND BOLTS, AND A NEW SET OF LEAF SPRINGS THAT CAN HANDLE THE SAME AMOUNT OF LOAD BUT BECAUSE THERE'S MORE LEAFS IN THE PACK, IT FLEXES BETTER WHEN YOU'RE IN THE DIRT. THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE FACTORY LEAF SPRING AND LIFT BLOCK ASSEMBLY. THEN WE'LL CUT THE STOCK SPRING HANGER OFF OF THE FRAME BY REMOVING THE RIVETS. INSTALL THE NEW HANGER FROM OFF ROAD DESIGNS, THE SWING SHACKLE, AND THE LEAF SPRING. ON THE FRONT OF THIS TRUCK WE'VE ALREADY PERFORMED A VERY POPULAR SOLID AXLE SWAP, BUT IF YOU WANT TO DO SOME HARDCORE WHEELING WITH OUR LIFTED STREET TRUCK, THE LEAF SPRINGS ARE NOT YOUR BEST OPTION. NOW DON'T GET ME WRONG, YOU CAN DO SOME PRETTY SERIOUS WHEELING WITH LEAF SPRINGS UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF YOUR TRUCK, BUT YOU'LL NEVER GET THE SAME AMOUNT OF WHEEL TRAVEL OR CONTROL THAT YOU WILL IF YOU CONVERT IT OVER TO A LINK TYPE SUSPENSION SYSTEM RUNNING ON A SET OF COIL OVER SHOCKS. SO THAT IS WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO ON THE FRONT OF OUR BLAZER. NOW WE'VE GOT EVERYTHING WE NEED TO BUILD OUR SUSPENSION FROM RUSTY'S OFF ROAD, AND IT'S THEIR NEW BUILDER'S SERIES LINE OF BRACKETS AND TABS. THEY'RE 100 PERCENT LASER CUT AND CNC FORMED TO FIT THE CONTOURS OF THE AXLE. THE HEIM JOINTS THEMSELVES COME WITH EVERYTHING YOU NEED INCLUDING THE JAM NUT AND THE TUBING ADAPTER THAT ARE FULLY REBUILDABLE AND HEAT TREATED FOR STRENGTH. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE BUILDING WHAT'S CALLED A RADIUS ARM TYPE SUSPENSION SYSTEM. THAT MEANS IT WILL BE ANCHORED AT TWO POINTS ON THE FRAME AND TRAVEL DOWN AND SPLIT HALF WAY TO CREATE TWO ARMS TO LOCATE THE FRONT AXLE. YOU'VE SEEN US INSTALL THIS TYPE OF SUSPENSION ON JEEPS BEFORE. THE NICE THING IS YOU GET A LOT OF WHEEL TRAVEL, BUT YOU NEED TO REMEMBER TO INSTALL A POLY BUSHING ON ONE END OF THE MAIN ARM. THERE'S GONNA BE A LITTLE BIT OF BINDING IN THERE, AND THE POLY JOINT WILL GIVE YOU THE FLEX THAT YOU NEED WHEN YOU'RE AT MAX ARTICULATION. THE NICE THING IS BY INSTALLING THE POLY JOINT, IT'LL ALSO CLEAN UP THE ROAD MANNERS WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY. IT ALL STARTS WITH THE KEYED BRACKET ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL UNDERNEATH THE DRIVER'S SEAT. THEN WE'LL CUT THE SHOCK MOUNTS OFF AND INSTALL THE AXLE SIDE BRACKET. THEN WE'LL CUT A LENGTH OF TWO INCH, .188 WALLED DOM TUBING, AND INSTALL A HEIM JOINT ON ONE END AND A POLY JOINT ON THE OTHER. A SHORT ARM ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE HOUSING AND THE LINK ARM ITSELF HELP SET THE CASTOR ANGLE AND PINION ANGLE IN THE RADIUS ARM SETUP. THEN WE'LL ADD THE PAN HARD BAR BRACKET ON THE TRUCK'S FRAME, BUILD THIS SAME RADIUS ARM SETUP ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE TRUCK, AND ADD THE PAN HARD BAR WITH A BEND IN IT TO CLEAR THE UPPER MOUNT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT WE SMOOTH OUT THE RIDE WITH COIL OVERS FRONT AND REAR. WHO NEEDS ROOM FOR GROCERIES? AND LATER ON WE SCRAP THE DIFFERENTIALS FOR A SET OF MECHANICAL LOCKERS WHEN XTREME 4X4 CONTINUES!

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE SHOWING YOU GUYS WHAT KIND OF UPGRADES YOU HAVE TO DO TO A LIFTED STREET TRUCK IF YOU WANT TO HIT A FEW HARDCORE TRAILS. SO FAR WE'VE PROTECTED THE BODY ON OUR BLAZER, UPGRADED THE REAR SUSPENSION, AND BUILT A CUSTOM LINK SUSPENSION UP FRONT. NOW WE CAN INSTALL SOME SHOCKS. NOW ALL THE WAY AROUND WE'LL BE USING BILSTEIN 9,100 ROCK CRAWLER SPECIFIC SHOCKS. THEY HAVE A HALF INCH SPHERICAL ROD END AT EITHER END, A 22 MILLIMETER MAIN SHAFT COUPLED TO THEIR ROCK CRAWLER SPECIFIC DIGRESSIVE VALVING THAT STIFFENS UP AS THE SHOCK CYCLES. NOW THE RESERVOIR ITSELF IS A TWO AND A HALF INCH DOM TUBE THAT NOT ONLY HOUSES THE PISTON AND THE NITROGEN CHARGE, BUT ALSO NOW HAS AN INTEGRATED HEAT SINK ON IT. THE HEAT SINK WILL REMOVE THE HEAT FROM THE SHOCK FLUID BEFORE IT REENTERS THE SHOCK BODY. THIS WILL NOT ONLY EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE SHOCK, BUT IT WILL KEEP THE FLUID FROM AERATING UNDER EXCESSIVE ABUSE. THE FRONT MOUNT BEGINS WITH A PIECE OF DOM TUBING BENT INTO A HOOP. WITH THE INNER FENDER WELL REMOVED AND THE TRUCK SITTING AT RIDE HEIGHT, THE FRONT SHOCK HOOP IS WELDED TO THE FRAME AND THE COIL OVER INSTALLED WITH SIX INCHES OF SHOCK SHAFT SHOWING.

ON THE REAR, THE STOCK MOUNTS ARE CUT OFF THE BOTTOM SIDE OF AXLE TO GIVE US MORE GROUND CLEARANCE. NOW THIS REAR SUSPENSION IS A LEAF SPRING SETUP. WE COULD'VE SIMPLY INSTALLED A SET OF SMOOTH BODIED COIL OVER SHOCKS. BUT JUST FOR A FEW EXTRA BUCKS, WE GOT THESE SHOCKS CUT FOR COIL SPRINGS. THAT WAY IF WE EVER UPGRADE THE REAR SUSPENSION IN THIS TRUCK TO SOMETHING LIKE A TRIANGULATED FOUR LINK, ALL WE'LL HAVE TO DO IS ADD A DUAL RAKE KIT AND SOME SPRINGS.

NOW IT MAY SEEM LIKE OVERKILL PUNCHING THROUGH THE FLOOR OF THE TRUCK TO GET THE SHOCK IN SIDE. AND ON A PICK UP TRUCK IT'S NO BIG DEAL BECAUSE YOU'RE JUST CUTTING THROUGH THE BED. ON A BLAZER LIKE THIS, YOU ARE GETTING INTO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. SO THAT HOLE WILL NEED TO BE SEALED UP. BUT YOU HAVE TO DO THAT IF YOU WANT TO MAXIMIZE THE AMOUNT OF TRAVEL YOU GET OUT OF A GOOD RESERVOIR SHOCK LIKE THIS 12 INCH ONE WE HAVE HERE. NOW THERE'S NO SHOCK MOUNT INSIDE YET. WE'RE GONNA BUILD THAT A LITTLE BIT LATER WHEN WE TEAR THE REST OF THE INTERIOR OUT TO BUILD A FULL ROLL CAGE. UPGRADING THE STEERING, EVEN ON A LIFTED STREET TRUCK, TO A HYDRAULIC RAM ASSIST IS A GOOD IDEA TO HELP TURN THE OVERSIZED WHEELS AND TIRES. IF YOU'RE GONNA TAKE THAT STREET TRUCK INTO THE DIRT, IT IS A MUST. SO WE HAVE A COMPLETE KIT HERE FROM PERFORMANCE STEERING COMPONENTS. IT'S A HYDRAULIC RAM ASSIST THE CONSISTS OF A SMALL HYDRAULIC CYLINDER THAT'LL MOUNT TO THE FRONT AXLE, A RESERVOIR TO HOLD THE EXTRA FLUID NEEDED, AND A HIGH FLOW, HIGH VOLUME PUMP TO PUMP IT, BUT THE KEY TO THE SYSTEM IS RIGHT HERE. THIS A 100 PERCENT NEW, NOTE REMANUFACTURED STEERING GEAR, BUT THE KEY IS IT'S DRILLED AND TAPPED WITH TWO PORTS TO DIVERT TH POWER STEERING FLUID DOWN TO THE RAM ON THE FRONT AXLE TO HELP TURN THE WHEELS WHEN THEY'RE PINNED AGAINST THE ROCKS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT A HARDCORE BLAZER MEANS HARDCORE AXLE SHAFTS, STAY TUNED!

(IAN)>> ONE AREA THAT YOU DEFINITELY WANT TO SPEND A LITTLE BIT OF TIME AND SOME MONEY ON IF YOU'RE CONVERTING YOUR STREET TRUCK INTO A HARDCORE WHEELER IS GONNA BE INSIDE THE AXLES. EVEN IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, UPGRADING TO A LOCKER IS THE RIGHT THING TO DO BECAUSE IN ORDER TO ENGAGE THAT LIMITED SLIP, YOU HAVE TO SPIN THE TIRES UP. SPINNING TIRES OFF ROAD USUALLY MEANS BROKEN PARTS. SO ON THIS TRUCK WE'RE TREATING IT TO NEW AXLE SHAFTS ALL THE WAY AROUND, LOCKERS FRONT AND REAR. FOR OUR BLAZER WE GOT A SHAFT AND LOCKER PACKAGE FROM EXTREME AXLE SALES, AND IT'LL REPLACE THE SHAFTS IN BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR AXLE WITH 4340 CHROMOLY YUKON HARDCORE AXLE SHAFTS. AND THEN THE DIFFERENTIAL ACTION WILL BE REMOVED WITH TWO MECHANICAL LOCKERS. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT INSTALLING A MECHANICAL LOCKER LIKE THIS GRIZZLY LOCKER IS IT'S ALL THAT WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO INSTALL IN THE AXLE TO GET THAT 100 PERCENT TRACTION WE WANT AT BOTH REAR AND FRONT TIRES. IT'LL SENSE THE WHEEL SPIN AND LOCK THE TWO OF THEM TOGETHER, WHETHER YOU'RE GOING FAST THROUGH THE DIRT OR JUST CRAWLING IN THE ROCKS. THE REAR AXLES ARE UNIVERSAL FIT AND NEED TO BE TRIMMED TO LENGTH. USING THE STOCK SHAFT AS A TEMPLATE, WE'LL MARK THE NEW LINK AND CUT IT WITH AN ABRASIVE CUTOFF WHEEL IN AN ANGLE GRINDER. CHAMFER THE EDGES TO MAKE SURE IT SLIDES INTO THE LOCKER EASILY. A BENEFIT TO JUST REPLACING A LOCKER WHEN UPGRADING YOUR AXLE IS YOU DON'T HAVE TO RESET THE RING AND PINION.

IT IS A GOOD IDEA AFTER IT'S ALL BACK IN THE HOUSING TO DOUBLE CHECK YOUR BACKLASH SETTING TO MAKE SURE IT'S BACK TO FACTORY SPECS. WE'VE TOLD YOU GUYS TIME AND TIME AGAIN YOU NEED TO PROTECT THE INVESTMENT YOU PUT IN YOUR AXLE. SO WE'RE GONNA PROTECT OURS WITH A SET OF BLUE TORCH FAB'S HEAVY DUTY DIFF COVERS. THEY'RE THREEEIGHTHS OF AN INCH THICK AND FULLY WELDED FOR STRENGTH. PLUS BECAUSE WE HAVE A 14 BOLT AXLE IN THE REAR, WE'LL INSTALL ONE OF THEIR PINION SUPPORT PROTECTORS TO GUARD OUR UJOINT AGAINST THE ROCKS. CONVERTING THE REAR AXLE FROM DRUM OVER TO DISC BRAKES IS GREAT EVEN IF YOU DON'T PLAN TO TAKE YOUR TRUCK OFF ROAD. YOU'LL GET BETTER BRAKING POWER BECAUSE OF THE DISC BRAKE ITSELF, BUT WHEN YOU ARE IN THE DIRT, YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THE DRUM BRAKES PACKING UP WITH WATER OR MUD WHEN YOU'RE RUNNING THROUGH SOME SLOPPY HOLES.

NOW IF YOU HAVE A LIFTED STREET TRUCK AND YOU PERFORMED ALL THE MODIFICATIONS WE DID TO THIS BLAZER, YOU ARE ALMOST READY TO GO WHEELING. WE'RE NOT QUITE DONE YET. WE'RE GONNA BRING IT BACK INTO THE SHOP, DEAL WITH SOME MORE POWER UNDER THE HOOD, SWAP OUT THE TRANSFER CASE, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY BUILD A COMPLETE ROLL CAGE INSIDE THE TRUCK TO PROTECT EVERYONE RIDING ON THE TRAIL. NOW REMEMBER, FOR DETAILS ON ANY OF THE PRODUCTS USED IN TODAY'S EPISODE, HEAD ON OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.